XP-L or XM-L2 for P60 drop-in? (MtnElectronics)

I’m going to get a P60 custom-built through MtnElectronics.
Stumped on whether I should choose XP-L or XM-L2 LED.

Richard also offer XP-L HD de-doming service (he has an A1 and 0D tints). But he also he has XP-L “HI” (“factory de-domed”, as it were) V2 3A tint. (I don’t know how 3A differs from 3C or 3D, but BLF A6 neutral white has 3C or 3D and I love it, and want to try to approximate that.) Is there an advantage to De-Doming an HD, vs going with the HI? (Wondering why he offers de-doming service, if factory no-dome option is available. Is it due to trying to get a tint exactly someplace? Or are there other benefits.)

It seems people generally favor XP-L these days. Even though it’s supposedly ‘the same’-it’s not?

Please give me guidance. I know XP-L Vf is higher than XM-L2, which is still higher than original XM-L were.

This will be single-cell. I have quality unprotected cells like 30Q etc.

PS I didn’t find out that Richard used to offer custom ‘DIY’ builds on C8 and 1405 zoomie. Didn’t learn till he stopped offering this :frowning: . At least he still offers P60 build service. I don’t have time for flaslight modding these days so it’s nice someone can put these together for me with me still choosing the parts.

XP-L is slightly newer and is slightly brighter.

Any guidance on a de-domed XP-L HD 1A, vs a [“no-dome”] XP-L HI 3A?
I’m looking for a “3D-like” neutral with good throw, but with the nice spill the XP series provides.

A P60 isn’t much of a thrower compared to a C-8. XPL-HI would be better than XML –2 but XPG-2 or Nichia better still and either of those can handle the current typical in a P60.

I own a C8, and many other flashlights. I am building a P60 here. Right now I have the venerable Manafont XM-L drop-in in my heavily-customized 502B, and I’m looking to kick it up a notch.

I was mainly asking about differences in tints, and how the LEDs behave. Still asking.

After reviewing the research the BLF members did for the Maxtoch 2x, they concluded that a de-domed XM-L2 1A (U4 bin) was superior to an XP-L HI in both tint, and perhaps even output (which surprised everyone). So, I guess I’ll try to go that route. I hope richard will be willing to flow an LED for me in this, as he surprisingly doesn’t have any 1A’s pre-mounted to a 16mm noctigon. There are some great drivers available now which he sells, looks like I should go with one of the FETs which have a direct-drive/100% mode at the top, and are user-customizable.

I thought about going XP-G2, but I do also want a crazy amount of light, not just throw.

Thought I’d get more input here. I see tens of responses to every “please recommend a thrower” and “what’s the brightest flashlight?” thread. I know P60s are a little passé, but there’s a lot of knowledge on these.

The trend has been towards lights designed with heat path in mind and the P60 is weak on this. Tin foil wraps are fine but they wrap the reflector more than the pill which is still brass with a thin shelf. The larger spring is still weaker on conductivity than pills that screw to the host so top end is lost there as well. Having the reflector in contact with bare aluminum behind the lens would help this but depends on the host. If you wrap the pill with cut up soda can strips be sure to strip the anodizing as that will create an alternate ground path as well.

My favorite tint is 3D with dome and op reflector to minimize artifacts which I consider the bane of old filament bulbs and have no wish to see. Unless you’re conversant with he tint shift from dedoming I’d suggest staying with known stock tints in XPL hi, XPL, or XM-L2 since you don’t want to lose lumens by going to XPG or XPE.

Given that you can buy quality stock lights (such as most of the Convoy range) for far less than the price of a quality P60 drop-in, then I can’t see the future of P60 being too rosy.

i agree. The P60 format was a great idea when filament bulbs were the only available. They could always die at the least opportune time or with a hard impact but LEDs are nearly fail proof in comparison and the negatives of the design are just not worth it with the better designs out now. Just my opinion as I know many don’t share my view of it. If I had a bunch of Surefire lights I’d spent hundreds on each I might want newer p60s to use in them but they are dinosaurs.

I would recommend the CUXM/CUXP P60 drop in that Mountain Electronics sells, selecting the Nichia 219B option. It is a few less lumens, but the color rendition is magnificent!

I agree that the P60 format has some drawbacks, especially in heat sinking and throw. The shallowness of the reflector just doesn’t allow for the really strong hot spot needed for throw. But remember, when the P60 was designed it was for a lamp putting out less than one hundred lumens. That’s not going to throw that far regardless of what size and design reflector. Its design was for ease of replacement, beam accuracy and quality, and ability to take more abuse than a normal flashlight of the time would tolerate.

Apart from if / when you want to swap dropins around for different uses or carry spares in the event of a failure.

And P60’s are easily built and upgraded as new emitters come out.

I’ve got P60 hosts here from years back that started with XR-E’s then XP-G’s then XM-L’s and now XP-L Hi’s.

They overtake the non-upgradeable lights.

Don’t get me wrong - there is still a place for P60s, particularly where stock lights are difficult to find (e.g. high CRI 3000k or some triple emitter combinations) but in most cases it is cheaper to buy a stock light to upgrade. For example if I want to replace my existing 3000k P60 based light with something brighter I could spend around $40 on a P60 XM-L2 module or <$20 on a Convoy S2+ or C8. That decision is pretty easy to make!

And that’s fine for those of us that have the knowledge, experience, and TOOLS to do that kind of thing. I have the knowledge, some of the experience, but all of my tools have disappeared over the last couple of moves, and I don’t have the need or funds to replace them. Especially when I can get the emitters I want in a P60 format. I am happy with my lights as they are now, and can not justify sending a $100 or more just to be able to swap a couple of emitters, with no need for them after that. I will leave that to you guys to chase the El Dorado of the best setup possible.

PS: No slams were intended here, so please don’t think I am aiming anything at anyone. I just wanted to point out that for some of us the P60 has its place.

I was actually referring to stock lights that don’t need to be modded. :slight_smile:

To each their own, but I still very much love my P60 lights and the format. Sure they are challenged when it comes to thermal management, but I love their interchangeable versatility and doing things like rolling the dropin with aluminum foil does help.

I think I was actually aiming more at some of the other comments earlier about swapping emitters and stuff like that.

All the lights I have purchased were stock lights that met my needs. It would have been nice to know what was coming down the pike each time I purchased one though. I have a TM11 I don’t use because I bought an EA8. I have an EA8 I don’t use because I bought a TM16. I have a TM16 I don’t us because I bought a TM16GT. See the pattern here? Anyone want to buy some slightly used lights in very good condition?

Well, that kind of went from a “you shouldn’t buy another P60 drop-in” conversation to a debate about the relevancy of P60’s (more entertaining/edifying). I don’t really need someone to tell me whether I should or shouldn’t get another drop-in; I already dropped enough info to show I know enough to be a big boy. But since apparently there’s concern I might waste my money, well, my old highly-customized 502b is still one of my favorite lights. It’s usually not the first light I grab, but it’s my defensive light. I really put the works to it, including a fancy momentary/twisty forward switch with no electronics other thn a solid piece of brass. It’s the light I can turn on or off in a flash. I don’t run on high more than a few seconds, usually.

When I play cop in my home, that’s my light.

Interesting re the staying power of P60s. They may be “obsolete”, but they are useful to many, and will still be around when the current stuff is gone… some may even think superior. Kind of like photographic film… if not, then like Windows XP.

I like the idea of having a (probably final) P60 drop-in that’s built totally, exactly the way I want it. It would be double price of Mtn’s pre-made ones, but then again it’s not a $140 XHP70 drop-in (and yes, you can buy those!). This is making it mine, continuing the theme of this highly customized, defensive light, and let’s face it, P60s make for good defensive lights.

Oh oh… and I was hanging out with a friend who had a buddy over (who apparently makes plenty of money)… neither flashlight enthusiasts. After I showed off my MT-G2, the buddy tried to play show & tell with his EDC light (I’m sure he didn’t know the term “EDC”, though). He said it was a Streamlight. I looked at it. It was a surefire type design, P60, with XM-L and forward clicky (actually a nice, unexpected switch). Frankly, it was quite nice for a “gentile” light (If I can use that term!); very powerful for a storebought light, good throw and spill (I didn’t have mine to compare), except it might have been plastic (can’t remember now). The only thing is, he said he paid about $100 bucks for it. AND it didn’t required two CR123s—I’ll say NON-RECHARGEABLES are TRULY obsolete! [ok someone’ll disagree w/me]). My 18650 did not fit in, and the guy expressed no interest when I mentioned the possibilities of rechargeables, only boasting about how long it last. (As you might tell, he was a “set in his ways, don’t need to know, already knows all he needs to know” type of guy—on all subjects.) I did not tell them that I had paid about half that for my MT-G2, and they didn’t ask. The ‘buddy’ did not know what a P60 was, and did not want me to open the light to show him the drop-in. He had no interest. To him, it was just a cool, quality, tacticool EDC light, mainly defensive (in addition to his other EDC thing I also got to inspect). OH, he proudly showed off the strobe, and talked about how in “training” somewhere he (or someone he knows) were taught to use strobe to disorient someone just briefly enough to take a better shot, if needed. I told him to shine the strobe in my eyes; he did. I told him ‘I’d have no problems tackling you right now, but the strobe might make me more pissed off.’ But yeah, that might surprise someone for 0.5 seconds, which may be enough to get the upper hand.

So apparently the world of gentile lights is about 5 years behind. People are just catching up to P60s, but at least they’re XM-L’s. Cops still use them (apparently). Therefore others will continue to use them.

I would get the XPL HI with FET+1 and Bistro FW. I have the 3D and it is a very nice tint IMO. I don’t think there is a big difference between XPL HI and dedomed XML, but definitely get something without a dome because the throw is so much better.

I don’t have any P60 lights, but it seems like a good sized light.