so dont try to build a triple convoy with DD ,it might meld in your hand 
XP-L -> one of the easiest dedomings for me, I remove transparent dome and leave the white stuff around the emitter die, it doesn’t affect the beam since its flush with the die.
XM-L/2 -> moderately easy/hard, needs cleaning, I spend 10-20 minutes cleaning dome residue around the emitter die
XP-G/2 -> similar as XM-L2 but more painful because everything is smaller
XP-E2 -> this one is hardest to dedome for me, dome never lifts properly from the die and I always get silicone residue on the die, real pain in the but this one…
Exactly the opposite for me 
I can dedome xp-g/xp-g2/xm-l/xm-l2/xp-e2 but not xp-l … I can’t get all the silicone off the die .
Hm strange, Sirius obviously has some wierd technique that doesnt touch the while sillicone
I was never able to do it like that,yet my cores are quite clean, XPL ones
sirius, do you use medical benzin for that?
P.S before americans start wondering its known as petroleum ether in US- pay attention its quite unstable, cause its boiling point is arround 45deg C
Have to try it though….before they were selling it freely here, now its gone
Exactly that, quite expensive stuff but 100 milliliters is enough for 10-15 emitters, evaporates like crazy, doesn’t leave residue or smell, washing emitter with alcohol is not needed, can only be bought at drugstores…
0 cleaning for XPL leds is needed, just remove the dome and it’s done.
10x.
Ofc the cleaning isnt needed, its as pure are a pure ethanol, you can treat your wounds with it, i have 50ml of it mixed with I in my hunter emergency kit…spendy stuff though
I used some of it several years ago to clean my diesel car duses They wanted 1.5k euros for that procedure in the local Toyota service…wierd ppl.
How much time it needs in there (to dedome) ?
Sorry I forgot about this question, I usually do a cold dedome, I leave emitter in for about 24hrs but lately I started using Mitko-s hot dedome, I heat up “benzine” at about 50-55 degrees Celsius and leave te emitter in for about 45minutes, in that time silicone dome just starts to lift and it’s easy to physically remove it, that’s have I done XPL-s, I was actually surprised how easy it was.
W2 hot dedome with a mixture or petrols
BLF kitchen recipe: how to cook emitters
I’ve used straight gas and hot dedome on XP-G2, XM-L2, and XP-E2, but fail miserably on XP-Ls.
How about one of you fellas sell me a dedomed XP-L W2 on a 20mm noctigon…since my reflow skills are a little suckish too… :person_facepalming:
I got 9.3A from an XP-L2 V6 3B on KD DTP board in a Convoy C8 host with TA driver and bypassed springs.
Thanks for the report. Did you happen to measure beam intensity?
I put a V5 4000k XP-L2 in a cheap C8 yesterday with a convoy OP reflector.
I actually REALLY like it, now the 4000k 80CRI is nicer to look at but this one is still quite nice and the output is great. I get around ~1700 lumens @ ~6A (the cheap host and A6 driver has a fair amount of resistance so hard to figure out the exact number).
It is a good mix of throw and output and the OP reflector drastically improves the tint shift.
I usualy get 1800 lument of ot XPL HD V6 3D at 6 amps, so those 1700 aint that lovely for XPl2….i realy do hope for the new XML3 , for me XPG3 and XPL2 are kinda disappointings especialy for a flashlight use
I measured 58250 Cd with the above mentioned setup.
I'm thinking a 4000K at the same bin of a 5000K will measure lower. Thought djozz said this about our relatively "cheap" meters, like any under $1,000 - they read CW higher than NW because of calibration, and deficiencies in the light spectrum of the sensor. I've seen evidence in this for sure. For XPL2 V6 5000K I've been getting a little over 2,000 lumens out of, but because mainly of higher amps. The couple XPL W2's I've used also just clear 2,000 lumens.
By the specs, a V6 is equal to a XML2 U3, and a W2 equals to a U4, and this seems to hold up in results. U4 CW's I've also gotten just over 2,000 lumens.
Well U4 would never reach V6-W2 cause simply it cant reach 6 amps, yet i have found they behave better in collimator based light…i have several u4 that hit easy 250cds and 1800 lumens i B158
I do measure with Asensetek spectrometer , however i have several cheap luxmeters too, one of them nearly reaches its accuracy and it costs like 11 $ :money_mouth_face: