I could not get 2 protected cells to fit, yet alone 3 - far worse... Those you linked say protected, if that's accurate. Roll the dice with RIC - general guideline...
My Y3’s and extensions came from the CNQ GB, and two EVVA 26650 unprotected button tops (5200mAh, purchased from RMM’s shop) fit easily with room to spare.
Y’all reckon the extensions from CNQ are slightly longer than the ones from GearBest? I’ll measure mine and post the results when I go home for lunch.
Tom E should be able to answer that maybe. I know I put three protected FT Trustfire flame 26650s in mine and they fitted ok but I cant check for a few days by how much and how long the batteries are. My lights came from CNQG.
My Y3 and 2 exts, all from GearBest, can run on 2 TF 26650 flames, but can't run on 3 TF 26650 flames. With each tube/cell added, the cell sticks out a little more at the end. It's about 2.5mm sticking out with 2 cells, and about 4mm with 3 cells.
Based on my experience, that’s about right. Should be roughly 2.5A to the emitter on high with the stock driver with two or three cells. Voltage drop on one cell as measured with a DMM should be slightly lower.
Post #77 here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/24076, I tested with various cells, all in the 2.45 to 2.52A range - bought from WallBuys. Are you sure you got a good DMM setup?
I just re-tested my latest Y3 from the GearBest group buy and measured 2.50A on one TF 26650 flame, and 1.25A on two TF 26650 flames. Are you using heavy DMM leads? The amp tail readings have been very consistent like this across all 5 Yezl Y3's I've gotten: 3 from WallBuys, 1 from CNQ, 1 from GearBest.
Again, the only reliable DMM setup is one with heavy wire custom made leads.
I bought mine from GearBest. I have 12 ga. custom leads. My modded s8 measures 3.74 amps with the same meter. I have measured up to 5 amps with this meter. No wait thats not right, i have measured up to 7 amps with this meter.
I shorted the the r150 resistor and it only measured 2.63 amps on one cell, then i put 2 cells in and it blew the led.
Didnt you measure way over 3 amps with one cell after adding a r100 resistor in parallel?
Post #132 earlier is my R100 results, yes. However, looks like my R100 modified driver died one overnight - no idea what's wrong.
- not sure what's goin on with the one cell configuration there with yours. If it's true 2.05A stock, it's quite different from my 5 pieces and most others
- Yes - shorted resistors using a true buck driver is highly risky - not surprised you blew the LED.
Im not sure whats wrong either, but thats about my luck to get something different. I knew it would be risky on 2s, but i had to see since the measured amps on 1s was so low.
Unfortunately i dont have any R resistors at the moment in my stockpile of parts.
Hhmm - my R100 resistor modded driver is now working - problem was it would come up in lo mode and mode changing didn't work. Looks like something flaky in the switch. I was able to get 3.36A measured, but that was on the bench with longer wires, etc. Not sure yet if it's worthwhile re-using it - I don't have a replacement switch solution because it's mounted on the PCB. Think guys have linked replacement PCB mounted switch's - dunno where.