Not just me either. Dale reported the same #'s on a U4 1C at about the same amps in the 1900's in a EE/BLF X6 no less .
If you consider 1700's (maybe 1800's) was achieved with a U2 1A a while back at 6+ amps, then you bump up 2 bins, take off a little amps, it's all possible. Difference in output between 5.3A and 6.5A or so is not all that much - it doesn't scale linearly.
Edit: actually we got 1700's on a de-domed XM-L2 U2 1A in a TN31, post #128 here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/17637. On a domed, probably in the 1900 area. I do believe though my amps to the LED measurements were probably low. Dale's method of using a quality loop meter is way better.
Well its the same, V6 at same current gives same results, i even think XML2 is the better overall choise cause of its bigger direct core pad…yet, +–50 lumens out of 1900 isnt actualy an issue
Yeah, those lovely IOS V6 1D are the best high amp emitters that i got so far, one of my last pieces of those even run at 6.26amps and ofc i instantly put it inside my own C8 that i use on my jackal hunting Ak 103: 155k mcds from a C8….its like a M2X Tom but 2 times lighter and smaller
Yet, U4 1C is nearly the same, i just havent tested any of those capable of runing above 5 amps- i wish we had U4 1A or 1D option
Btw, those U3 0D from FT are realy realy good ones, i stacked a good ammount from those They aint 0D but prolly 1A or something but their lumen output in incredible
s
I actualy ordered U4 1t and V6 1A- will keep you updated ofc, especialy for 1t…i do expect a hard blue/green tint here , rofl
I got in U4 1A's from Cutter - they got em. Just finished a 3rd Y3 with a U4 1C - still got 5.3A, slightly lower lumens, better throw though. Wondering now if the proper focus point is a more lower LED - last one, didn't think I got the height right - LED is not as far in as the 1st Y3. 2nd Y3 I have to re-test. Got low # in amps, lumens and throw -- gonna take the screws out for one thing. The 1st and 3rd are using a Maxtoch 26 while the 2nd one is using a 20mm SinkPAD.
There's probably lots of variations though piece to piece: LED, reflector, etc.
My Xmas V6 1A yezl build
MT 26mm MCPCB used and 1.5mm 25mm copper pad underneath, V6 1A, piggybacked wigths 17mm DD driver v 44, F Roche modded firmware
At start it calculated lumen output is 1992( i would never reach 2k with a single 10w emitter obviously), and 212k mcds
Current:
The battery used was Efest 26650 4200 Purple ofc, with KeePower i got 7% less
The hotspot came quite decent though( at 2m)
And they say Y3 isnt good host for modding….actualy its my favourite modding dual switch host
Yeah its dedomed, as you can see i broke some of the while sillicone while dedoming but otherwise it came a very good and clean- i always try to preserve the white sillicone
The tint isnt actualy a dedomed 1A as you know it but kinda pinkier whitch is good, so i presume its not exacly 1A but different, yet the lumen output shows its V6 or at least close.
Bought it from KD.
Wires are 20 awg, i am out of 18 atm( what i shame )
I got little experience with HI, tested only 2C, 1A and 2B but the css i got aint that good, this counts also for the lumen output
Lets hope Cree will bring higher binned HI emitters to the market eventualy
Yeah i tried those and they are absolutely the same as Efest 4200( real capasity is 4300-4450 actualy, at 5a load)….i think they could be rebranded Efest cause its absolutely the same, i bought them only once 6 months ago but the shipping time took forever
I tested so far Enerpower 4700 mAh , all Efest and Keepower 26650 models, Trustfire too, have several Ultrafire and i dont wanna talk about , i have currently even Sony US26650FTC1 3000mAh LiFePo4- the best considering high amps is Efest 4200
Those Panasonic 26650 in Aliexpress seems to be fakes, at least 2 that i bought were
Ohhh - I am so freak'n spoiled by UCL's and UCLp's, I find disappointment in all the other so called AR lens (cheap ones) out there. I'm with Dale on this. I did try pretty much all of them CNQ, KD, IOS, FT, etc.. - All are beaten by Chris's at flashlightlens.com.
Think CNQ had the Y3's - tried those, maybe not the KD's specifically, not sure.
Put an UCLp, de-domed XM-L2 U4 1C, resistor mod, extension for two 26650 and am please with the cost/power ratio on this flashlight. Only gripe is the dedome is almost too incandescent yellow, dedomed it with acetone.
its been awhile since i have been on here, but i noticed that yall say that the drivers have changed a bit. are there differences in the ones from GB and CN?
i am running 6v xhp50 with this driver and resistor mod and its around 3.8 amps with 2 cells. with one cell, xml2 and resistor mod i could only get 3 amps.
The way I understand it the Y3 is a buck driver. I am close to 2.8A with TWO cells at the tail which after losses it should be close 5A to the XM-L2 emitter. To unleash the capabilities of this driver add a third cell. In my case three cells only increased weight and capacity. I am running 3 26700 King Kongs on my HX 1175B1 driver with the MT-G2 witb a tail cap reading of 4.6A and imagine that works out close to 6.5A. But I claim not to be an expert.
my Y3 has always been different. the driver in mine doesnt buck. never have understood why. i have burnt a couple of xml2s trying to run 2 cells. that is why i got the 6v xhp50 in it. i was having trouble with my meter but i retested it at the tail and it is 4.27 amps with 2 not fully charged 18650s.
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They aint 0D but prolly 1A or something but their lumen output in incredible
