I have been at the brass ring over at the driver’s side, for a good 2 hours or so without success. Can I ask you how you managed to remove it?
It seems to be stuck fast. 
:~
edit: tried the brass ring over in the clicky end as well, and that wouldn’t budge either.
I think mine came off pretty easy - I probably used a good fitting needlenose, both unscrew normally - CCW. Maybe they got cross threaded and the assembler just forced them on.
If you have a heftier pair of needlenose, you can try drilling out the holes to be bigger/deeper, than you can apply more force. I've done that on occasion. I have 5 pair of needlenose handy at all times, in assorted shapes/sizes.
If you can get an accurate measurement on the spacing between those 2 holes, you can drill 2 like holes in a scrap piece of metal or wood and locate 2 nails or sharp screws in it, then use that for a wrench. If necessary, do like Tom said and bore out those 2 holes a bit. With a bit of leverage it should be easy.
The best news of the day!!!
+1 - that's really sounding good, if only you could open up the pill 
. I should try this myself - I got one spare MT-G2, but no 2-2 cell lights. Not sure if the stock tube is the same as the extension tubes. Would also like to see if two 26700 KK's would fit - because I have a few, and with 5300 mAh capacity, it's the best setup.
This is very good news! :bigsmile: I assume stock it would drive a MT-G2 very poorly.
from where you bought 26700 KK’s ?
MtnElectronics has them, but I know you are overseas so not sure if Richard can ship to you. They are labeled 5000 but I tested them in the 5300 range, but they are low resistance, as good or better than the KK 4000's. I don't know if any other retailer selling them. MaxToch sells them actually (you can buy an M12 w/26700), but they are a bit pricey to buy them from MaxToch direct, and probably not listed on their site, so they would have to be directly contacted. Richard's price is much lower. Listed with my test results here:
mtnelectronics.com - KK 5000 26700
yes i know i was hopping if anyone else with good shipping has them,thanks.
The brass rings in the driver and clicky ends are holding their ground. Even using steel that is around 5mm wide, it’s bending the steel whilst I try to remove the rings. So, for now, if I want to see any progress, it’ll simply be an MT-G2 emitter swap. I am forgoing any sort of braiding (could be done in the clicky end with a fine soldering tip…) or resistor modding to my Yezl Y3.
Now I just need another lens (mine came broken) so that I can try and replicate saabblaster’s REV-captor light.
Don’t know why else they’d be that stubborn.
Tom, those driver’s I mentioned to you both via PM earlier are on their way to me along with all components to build 3 of them!
Everyone else, man do we have something AWESOME in the works for these lights!
On the edge of my seat for this one….
an advanced…Thank You!
I wish mine was in already 
I am now dookiecheap! gdamit (bholeflashlight) :bigsmile:
Oh yeah rod. I ruined a good pair of snap ring pliers already, they are too soft it just bends the tips. It’s the perfect tool if you could find one made out of hardened steel. Snap rings aren’t that strong though. The needle nose pliers worked. You might try a watch wrench, drill the 3 holes. 3 holes is better than 2, or so I’ve heard.
A little teaser info:
Its a single channel [white only], FET based DD driver, looks almost identical to a 17dd but its PIC based and the UI is extremely advanced…
Yezl Y3 plus an MT-G2 is a really good outdoor light IMHO. The hotspot is this massive round thing, with good spill. I would say, this combo is perfect for those who are looking at lighting all those that are in front of them within 100 metres. Unfortunately I think I may have damaged to dome a little bit. The hotspot produces a “hotter” (ie. more yellow and round’ish shape) spot within itself. This doesn’t seem evident when using outside, only white wall hunting or indoor use. But seriously, who would use this indoors?
I am kind of glad that I didn’t do the resistor mod. To me, it’s in the “bright enough” category. I would probably say, around the 1800 lumens area. A quick and dirty ceiling bounce test with my eyes is saying that it’s brighter than an XM-L2 U2 1A de-domed driven at around 5A. The fact that it is also running at 2.4A when on high, should mean much longer run-times on my Keeppower 4500mAh cells. Also, the heatsinking is fine. Even at the lower amps, this thing heats up quickly at 2.4A (used Arctic Silver 5 and a slightly thicker o-ring in the lens to put pressure on the LED). Last but not least, I also ordered an UCLp AR Acrylic Lens from flashlightlens.com. It works well with it.
The end result was a light that I think I should be coming back to more often as the heft of it feels just right and balanced, along with producing a useful floody beam, without the need of a multi-emitter setup.
Thanks for the feedback Rod. Sounds like a real winner.
Cereal_killer wrote:
A little teaser info:
Its a single channel [white only], FET based DD driver, looks almost identical to a 17dd but its PIC based and the UI is extremely advanced…
This sounds quite interesting. Looking forward to this.
where do you guys buy your mt-g2?