I have one of those on the way also. Different driver though. It’s a clone of the Solarstorm Raging, but it’s not the same driver as the Solarstorm either. The driver will be a big surprise.
I’ve got three chips stacked in the L2 sector. It’s pretty ugly, but my DMM tells me everything is functioning. I’m stacking 350mA chips, so I have to assume that the stock chips on the board are 380mA because I’m getting 3.3A.
I’ll stack three more chips in each of the other two sectors and call it a night.
I have to figure out how well this light can be heat sinked before I load on any more.
I finished with nine chips in each sector. I made notes of current after every chip added. I won’t bore you with that. I didn’t take any photos, because my stacking looks like a mouthful of broken teeth. People might laugh.
I thought I would run out of chips, but luckily my cat had saved me a pill bottle full of them under the fridge along with various other cat toys.
Sector L1 - 3.27A
Sector L2 - 3.32A
Sector L3 - 3.24A
Before I packed up I took another set of readings with 2 X 18650 in parallel.
Sector L1 - 3.30A
Sector L2 - 3.37A
Sector L3 - 3.36A
I didn’t think the readings would change, but they did.
If I can figure out how to disperse the heat, I’d kinda like to go for 4A per emitter.
I stacked one chip on a 4x7135, it went pretty good actually. How do you tell you’ve ruined a chip?
The only way is to check the current with a DMM. If the chip is fine, you should have gained about 350mA in your reading. It’s pretty hard to kill these little buggers. If your reading doesn’t go up it usually means that one of the legs isn’t soldered on properly. I test all the legs for connectivity after every chip.
Doesn’t look like XML2 to me? Looks like XML-U2.
-Jamie M.
The MCPCB says XML-U2, but the LED is XM-L2. The substrate is silver, not green.
Ahhhh, nice 
-Jamie M.
Interesting driver.
I have started working with EAGLE and have just designed something similar, but with 4*9 AMC7135, for triple or quad flashlights. I just sent the files to the manufacturer and am looking forward to getting them... I hope they'll work :)
how much is the final price for that driver?
is it programmable?
Wish I’d known that, that’s perfect for my project that you sent the drivers for just now (got them today, thank you!)
Is that, by any chance, any less than 38mm in diameter? Might have to talk you out of one of those when the time comes…
I like, like, like that driver Dr. jones. I want some please.
oh man, i hope so too, i’ll be all over a few of these with your awesome programming, if you sell them
THANK YOU! THANK YOU! :bigsmile: :bigsmile: Do you have any plans to sell completely populated drivers? Sheesh… you’re amazing.
What is the diameter of this board? I guess the four L+ dots in a row can be linked so the board is one big sector?
It's diameter is 46mm, suitable for King, Kung, UF-T90, this YUPARD and so on. I have a King and an UF-T90, which is why I designed this driver.
The 4 sections are controlled individually; one of the pads is there to tell the MCU if it's 3 or 4 or only one big LED (which will probably have influence on the UI). The PCB design supports dual stage switches and up to 4 status LEDs.
The firmware isn't written yet though, I'll also have to order some components, it'll take weeks alone till I can test this driver.
I have no reflow solder equipment, so I'll not sell complete drivers. If everything turns out well, I might sell kits containing board, MCU, cap, diode, but maybe without the AMC7135s, don't know yet. This is still not tested at all, and my experience with designing PCBs is, uhm, limited. This is my second PCB (and my first one, a 17mm RGBW driver, is also not yet tested...).
Very interesting, keep us informed. I never heard if TexasPyro completed and offered his SRK/Apex sized 7135 driver for sale so this would be a great option/alternative.
I’ll take five kits please. I have my own AMC7135s.
I finally had a little time to start working on the heat sinking. To start off, I’ll fill the threads with Arctic Silver ond screw the emitter plate down tight.
Here are the bits and piece I’ll be using. They just need to be cleaned up a little.
The larger copper disc will go in first. It’ll be clamped tight to the emitter plate with Fujik adhesive. I saved the copper dust from the filing, and will mix that in with the Fujik.
I started a small pilot hole to accommodate the screw that threads into the center of the reflector. The hole would have to be large enough for the head of the screw to pass through the two copper disc, so I scrapped the idea. It would be a waste of material, and the lens should push the reflector down tight.
I cut a cross section of slightly larger copper pipe and cut a section out so when squeezed together will butt against the copper disc and hug the walls of the pill. I’ll coat the walls with Arctic Silver first.
Next, I’ll coat the bottom of the copper disc with solder paste and hammer the smaller disc down flush against it. This should also force the pipe cross section tight against the pill wall.
Add heat, and everything should solder together nicely.
I hope every thing works as planned. If so, then I plan to drill three holes where the Noctigons will sit. I’ll plug the holes with some copper rod about 1/2” diameter, that will go through the aluminum emitter plate and the copper discs.
Looking good.