"YUPARD" Triple ~~ Photos and Teardown ~~ mod started ~~~ Heat-sink is finished (post #40 & 42) ~~~ big setback! ~~ FINISHED

LED Flashlights – General Info 18650 Flashlights
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My YUPARD 5500 Lm 3* XM-L2 LED Super Bright Spotlight Searchlight Flashlight super T6 arrived today, so I took some quick photos and a tear down for those that are still waiting for theirs.

It arrived well boxed with the flashlight inside another sturdy gift box.

It was smaller than I thought it would be. Smaller in a good way. This light is nice and compact. I would compare it to the Solarstorm/FandyFire Warrior.

It feels nice in the hand. The handle isn’t cumbersome, and with it being attached at the back is less likely to slip from your grip. I find these type of lights to generally be top heavy, and handles that are attached at the front can slip from your grip if you don’t hang on.

The electronic switch is placed perfectly for easy reach. There is no long press required to turn on. The switch is instantaneous, and hair trigger.

The modes are High ~ Medium ~ Off. You have to go through medium to get to off. It’s just one extra click, and the switch is fast and sensitive. Strobe is hidden, and can be accessed by holding the switch for a few seconds. The light will go back to high.

Here is the Yupard between a Nage triple and a FandyFire Warrior

Even though it is advertised as 3 x XML T6, it is in fact 3 x XM-L2

The reflector is pretty much the same as the Warrior except the emitter holes are a bit wider at the base, with room to accommodate a centering disc. The beam pretty much matches my FandyFire Warrior.

Alright. Here’s the battery side of the drive.

I couldn’t go through the head to push the driver out because the reflector is screwed on from inside the head, so it looks like the switch will have to come out.

The switch comes out easily enough by unscrewing the retaining ring. Pull out the switch and insert something with a right angle. I used a bent nosed pliers, but I usually just use an Allen key and give it a tap with a mallet. The driver pops right out. I think it’s just pressed in.

You can see the charging port. It’s a direct charge to the cells with no supported circuitry. I would just remove it.

And there is that beautiful driver. I’ve already done a few threads about this driver. I love it. There are three sectors with pads for six AMC7135 chips per sector. The sectors can be linked if you want to drive a single emitter.
The Yupard has four chips per sector and six unused pads. That would give this light I.4A per emitter. You can populate the empty pads with more chips, and then keep stacking. I love it.

Here’s the inside of the body tube. You’ve all seen springs before. I couldn’t get the tail off. It’s glued pretty good. I don’t even know if its threaded.

The cover for the charge port is just a rubber plug connected to an elastic that girds the head. Needs work.

It’s late and I have to get to bed. I kinda rushed this one to the presses, so if I left anything out, or can answer some questions…speak up.

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Ordered mine Nov 19th - shipping status is usual "Origin Post is Preparing Shipment" with no date/time... Glad to see you got it though, and glad to see it is the driver you were pretty certain it would be - that's great in fact!

Time to solder/stack the chips...

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Thanks for the teardown Ouchyfoot. It appears that where the leds are glued is about 3mm thick?

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I’m becoming enamored with these massive drivers. I need to get one. :slight_smile:

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interesting light. The head of it looks very close to the size and design as the SkyRay Kung.

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Much Appreciated, Ouchy. Only affirms more that I want this light. :smiley:

Do you think there’s a way to waterproof the button?

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Sorry MRsDNF. I didn’t think to take any measurements before I slapped it back together. It looks about 3mm though. Pretty standard.
The LEDs aren’t glued with adhesive, just paste, so no problems to swap out to Noctigons.

I already knew this light had the good driver, so I was most impressed when I saw that it had XM-L2. It is listed as XM-L. That’s a savings of $15 not having to replace them.

I’m not that familiar with electronic switches. Does anyone know what kind of current they can handle?

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Thanks Ouchyfoot. I’m no expert but the electronic switches dont see much current through them at all. They are merrily used to tell the driver what to do. Hence the constant drain on the batteries. They are always waiting for an instruction from the user.
Edit. I stand to be corrected but the expression for electronic switch in a flashlight relates to a momentary switch so the driver always has power to it waiting for instructions from the switch. I hope I have not confused things to much.

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Hmmm. I’ll have to chew on that. I figured the full current had to travel through it, so the switch could break the connection to turn off the light. I guess I’ll have to bone up on electronic switches.

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Thanks for the great review.

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I just noticed what’s different. The aluminum bezel on the Yupard site is much broader. Actually I was worried that a deep shiny bezel might leave a halo. I don’t mind.

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- will this driver fit the skyray king?

  • is it available anywhere as an individual part?

I am still interested in the custom driver being designed for the king, but if the fits, I would love to play with one and stack a pile of amc’s.

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I’m thinking of contacting the vendor to see if they can get hold of some of these drivers.

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That would be great!
I’m sure you posted this in your other teardown threads but the outer diameter of the board is 48mm right?

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The light is built like the SP03, with the entire inner workings of the head looking almost exactly like it. (as my memory serves) The SP03 had a bit thicker shelf for the emitters as I recall and a larger diameter head.

Would be interesting indeed to get a hold of a couple of those drivers…

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46mm I believe.

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I pulled apart the Yupard again today to do a bit of planning. After the driver, switches, lens and reflector were removed, I noticed a bit of rattle. On closer inspection, I realized that the pill is not integral, but has a 3mm emitter plate that threads into the pill.

This is causing me to rethink my original plan. I was going to attach a thick copper disc under the pill with thermal adhesive and drill three holes through the pill and copper disc where the emitters sit. Then I was going to insert copper slugs through both to pull the heat from the emitters into the disc which would disperse the heat through the head.
There is no ledge on the underside for the copper to attach to. The head diameter is even and tubular, therefor the copper would be pointless, as the only dispersal point for the heat would be through the 3mm aluminum threads of the emitter plate.

Hmmmm…the best laid plans…

Next comes the removal of the charging port wires. It’s not necessary, but it really takes up space and gets in the way.
My other lights with this driver had tail switches, so this is wired up a little differently. The charge port on the tail switch models had three wires connected to the driver, V1~~, V, and KEY. There was also a bridge between KEY and V2~~. If you just removed the wires, the driver wouldn’t work. I had to make a wire bridge between KEY and V1~~, and remove the V wire. KEY and V1~~ lead to ground.

These two photos are from my NAGE with a rear tail switch.

I jumped a wire between KEY and V1- (note the factory jump between KEY and V2-)
It worked, and is still working so I must have done the right thing.

The Yupard has an electronic switch, so things are a little different. The switch is connected to both KEY pads, which will break the connection to ground. The charge port has only two wires instead of three connected to the driver, and there is no bridge between KEY and V2-.

I guess I’ll have to start by disconnecting the two port wires. If it works that will be real easy. If it doesn’t, I’ll have to test bridges and hope I don’t short out the driver.

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Well, that was easy enough. I just had to disconnect the two charging port wires and everything works perfectly.

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I started adding AMC7135 chips to keep me busy. This is my third board like this.
On the first on, I had to use a soldering iron. I got it done, but it looks like a mess. I ruined five chips for every one I laid down properly.
On the second board I used a mini butane torch with an attachment for hot air. I had to remove the solder that was already on the pads and then added solder paste. It went OK, but took a while. There really isn’t much air to blow the heat out the front. The finished product looked good, but I suffered som third degree burns to my arm.
This is my third board, and this time I have a digital hot air reflow station. I can set the temp and airflow exactly how I want it. I left the existing solder on the pads, plunked down the chips, and they were stuck down in seconds.

Now that the pads are populated I have to start stacking. That’s where I’m not so good. Practice makes perfect. I was getting better by the time I finished my last board.

How many should I stack? I guess it all depends on figuring out how to heat sink this light properly.

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Thanks for the pics I have a 5x Yupard with a handle on the way. $30 from ali-express Cyber Monday deal. Hopefully it has this same driver.