Thank you for info on the light. How is the size of the flood? Does it has next mode memory? How long until it gets hot on high? Is the tint of the led pure white or does it have a cool blueish tint?
No the tint does not seem to be blue at all, just my guess maybe in the 6k range and gamezawy the lens is
pla stic and as far as the flood I couldn’t give you an accurate guess but it has more spill and a lot brighter than my sipik 96 with a t6 emitter. And I got it shipped to my post box in about 1 week ’
Wow that’s pretty awesome! My SK98 is the floodiest light I have and I consider the size of the flood pretty huge. Thanks again for work on this and for sharing your experiences with the light.
I am trying to purchase by non-member checkout,
but it keeps putting me back to an empty cart.
Please advise
I had the same problem, I also want to mention it has a 17 mm pressed driver and I have been running it on high now about 30 min straight and it has gotten WARM! I don’t have a laser or in fared thermometer but my calibrated hand guestamates
At about 95-99°F and has leveled out there so that s what I have for now a decent zoomie better than most and I will be upgrading my driver tomorrow.
Funny thing about holding flashlights… we make very good heatsinks 
If a light is left standing on its own, it gets much warmer!
If you hold a light long enough, it will get to about 90 degrees F without even turning it on 
hasn’t shown up as an order, or as a paypal payment.
Their website says it may take 48 hours for an order to appear.
I’ll figure that means a week or more and wait before trying to order again.
Any chance you guys are going to offer this in other colors than black? Or does anyone know of any lights similar to this in any other color than black from a reputable seller?
Got mine today - not too bad, actually pretty good deal for the price. This appears to have a DD driver, just like my Sipik SK73.
Using a frest Efest 35A 18650:
tail amps: Hi-3.60A Med-1.65A Lo-0.85A
Flood lumens on Hi: 809 @start, 782 @30 secs
Throw on zoom Hi: 14.8 kcd, measured at 5m
It's probably not getting the true 3.6A because of loss's from the tailcap spring/switch, but still this is an impressive amount of output from a stock budget zoomie, best I've seen. It compares right up there with my modd'ed zoomies. Plus notice it holds the high output pretty well in the first 30 secs.
Compared to my Sipik, the only noticeable difference is the bezel - Sipik has a smooth one, this ZeusRay has a strike bezel, plus overall the ZeusRay is longer. It's the standard 5 modes, but reset to high within 10 secs, maybe less.
All the packing, pretty decent:
Came in pretty good condition. Only noticed 1-2 slight scrapes on the black anodizing:
With other zoomies:
ZeusRay on left, Sipik on right. LED is somewhat off center but doesn't seem to effect the beam. Both lights have an excessively large bezel, cutting down on the max width of the lens. It throws a big XM-L2 square spot for sure:
Hi Tom, thanks for sharing your thoughts. How does the size of the flood compare to the SK98 and SK73?
Much bigger than the SK73, bigger than the SK98, and match's the flood diameter of my SupFire F3. Actually it's quite good. The zoomed square size match's the SK73's though.
Thank you Tom, that’s what I was waiting to hear! I wasn’t too impressed with the size of the flood of my SK73 clone and I have been looking for something to replace my SK98 clone. I just ordered a couple. Too bad they are now out of stock…hopefully not for too long. Thank again.
The ZeusRay pill top is a massive 7.3 mm thick - amazing for such a small light.
Decent 24 AWG wires, 16 mm star, and greased up:
Driver side:
star (top) side view. Minor indent, but the lip around the indent sticks up, so should be sanded down:
Tailcaps - here's the problem for high amps. Both have pressed in pieces, not easy to remove. Though the SK73 has a retainer ring, underneath it is press fit plastic. In tests, it looks like the ZeusRay has lower resistance because the measured light output is higher than when measured swapped out with the SK73's tailcap - they are interchangeable. Threading and collapsed spring match up perfectly:
Typical thin alum 16mm star:
Simple DD driver:
Thanks for those amazing pictures Tom, they were extremely helpful! I was thinking of using a couple of penny heat sinks, but now I’m not sure if it is necessary or if there is room. I think I might replace the driver as well. Nothing is wrong with it, but I usually try to avoid dd drivers.
No, no room whatsoever in there - probably couldn't fit stacked 7135's either.
Oh…I guess I might be leaving it stock besides adding copper braid to the driver spring and ground. How about you? Planning any mods? How are you going to sand the lip on the pill? Dremel tool?
> star (top) side view. Minor indent, but the lip around the indent
> sticks up, so should be sanded down:
Hellooooo DealMetic, that’s the picture I’ve been asking you for over and over,
and that’s why.
Can you please pass this on to whoever’s doing the work?
Tell them: They got it almost right.
They can fix that.
EDIT —maybe they are fixing it? Because I just looked — the order I thought I made a while back never showed up on their site — and it now says
“Pre-order” —either they ran out or they’re changing something, or??
Dang, waited for the picture I wanted, and by the time the picture appears and I know what I”ll have to do to take it apart and improve it, the flashlight’s gone from the website.
Well, I’ll “pre-order” one
Waiting around (sigh)
Sorry, but this is all typical, expected. I always sand pill tops anyway when I have the star off, to 2000 or 2500 GRIT. I'll use a thin strip of sandpaper draped over the backside of a metal chisel. I use that surface because it's flat, no rough edges, and I can pinch the sandpaper to keep it in place while sanding.
The slight lip is really minor - wouldn't notice it unless you are looking for it - I do of course...
Another thing I do is bevel cut the wire holes using an exacto type blade - there is always a lip sticking up on those too. Sometimes it might not matter because the star doesn't overlap those edges, sometimes they do. When I'm done, noting is protruding at all. Seems like most pills that look smooth and flat will have a slight dimple sticking up in the middle - I sand those down too. If it's brass, lots of time the whole pil top is sticking up in the middle - with those, I'll flatten them with light hammer taps on a dowel.
but not everyone who buys from them expects to have to take the thing apart and finish the work on it. They’re turning out products that are 90 percent finished — that will perform a whole lot better if they do get finished
Deburring and cleaning up router and drill holes is something any machine operator can learn how to do, they just have to request clean work and tell the guy nobody else is cleaning up his work.
Just sayin’ — these aren’t supposed to be hobby kits, they’re supposed to be finished products.
Dang, I am such a grouch sometimes.
, no you got a good point - maybe if we or someone just asked, they'd do it, but that is not happening with my requests lately... Excuses I got is the components are fine for the power set as they are sold - stuff like that...