Thats the spec i would pick also capo :+1: , dont have the sst40 yet! 6500k is not my preference though(can cope with it still), would be super cool for some 4000 and 5000k sst40 options.
Used the D4 all day as a work light, works pretty much awesome for a general work type light. The ramping UI, just hold to tweak either up or down for inspecting things close or even at a distance. Thanks to the optics, the diffused hot spot/spill does not bounce back easy off the plant. Must admit though, even though 200 or so lumens is enough, its impossible to resist double tapping for 100% output 
……………boys and their toys 
Exactly my thoughts.
If I get a D7 (I’m afraid I will), it will be grainy and it will be with Cyan. Unless Hank invents something even cooler.
As to length, the new D4 does look shorter on the pic, though the specs didn’t change.
Had to do it. Cyan XP-L 5000k with frosted optic, 18350 tube and clip. The frosted optic was what put me over the edge.
Has anyone measured the xp-l hi output with an 18350? I only see the 18350 figures for the 219c and it’s for an efest 700mah, not an aspire 1100mah.
Howdy, BLF members. I’d like to draw your attention to the Emisar D4’s reverse polarity protection. Last night I left a Samsung 30Q in backwards and it drained the battery to 0.0 volts overnight. The battery is now destroyed, so make sure you don’t leave yours in backwards. The light’s low voltage protection only works with the battery the right way around. Some energy loss is occurring when it’s backwards, causing it to be depleted below safe levels.
Just 1 post and it’s to let us know not to be stoopid
Tankee yuu!
Skittle. If for some reason you do it again you’ll notice the light blinks when you insert it correctly and screw the cap down
Skittle, does the light still work afterward, when given a working battery? In other words, was the damage limited to just the battery?
To improve reversed-battery behavior, the driver hardware would need to be redesigned. The firmware (LVP) can’t do anything about it since it can’t run unless it has the correct voltage. I’m not sure what measures can be taken, but I would hope that it would simply do nothing instead of draining the cell. That’s up to the analog circuit designer though; it’s not something I can fix.
A worried friend had already got his d4 and d1s yesterday, and since they didn’t officially start selling, d4 hasn’t been tagged yet. The structure and length of cyan d4 have not changed, except that the surface of the frosted surface, its body and old d4 can be exchanged for use, this is the photo he Shared.
I guess I’m finally deciding myself to go for this light :person_facepalming:
I’ve been reading and watching the photos and now I need to decide the emitter to pick.
Can anyone compare or show this one in particular? XP-G2 S4 3D, 4885K
I’ve seen the comparisons between XP-G2 S4 5D, 4000K and Nichia 219CT 90CRI, 5000K, but unless I missed it, I guess I didn’t see any of the 4885K.
I’d appreciate to see one if anyone has it :+1: Thanks in advance! 
Yes, the light is fine. So RPP works as intended—it just has an unintentional flaw that eats batteries. It shouldn’t be a problem unless you’re used to putting batteries in backwards (ahem, Olight).
Is your friend called Hank
Nice pics, thanks for sharing………………i can see this Emisar! family forever growing in size
As an intense Olight user (S baton Series), I totally understand why you would put a battery bacwards…
Emisar’s feature of blinking twice when fed a new battery is really useful for that matter
That blue one looks nice… and the D1 looks very portable and convenient. The D1S looks a bit large for my purse though.
You have a good reason to buy a new bigger purse.
Is the xp-l hi worth the price difference in real life performance? Also is the side button easy to locate in the dark? Thanks.
I’m dealing with that issue right now. I like my XP-G 4000k better than my XP-L 5000k. I try to love the XP-L more, but can’t.
Dark Raspberry sounds good for December.