Now that I have the 3C and 3D lights, I want to mod them. For me, both of these lights are way too bulky and that 3D is a heavyweight. I need to get them lighter and shorter.
It is amazing that the switch from a D Maglite is a perfect fit in the body of this D Armormax light. I guess I can use a Mag switch and cut the body down, for a 1D.
All I have to do is make a hole and shape the body like a Maglite switch hole.
If I remove the switch section of the C Thrower, it makes for a shorter light. Maybe even shorter than that, if I use 3 Sub-C cells. Also, a C Maglite switch will go in the body tube, but it will need a little "massaging".
Or, I could use a cut down 2D body, to make it into a 1D. I like that idea.
I will be modding both of these lights, but it may take some time till I do. These are just some ideas for these two lights.
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02-23-13 I decided to use a 2D body on the Defiant "D" size light. I think it really was way too heavy and with a 2D body, it cuts down a LOT of weight. Also, I wanted to do it with some simpler tools, where others might be able to adopt it to something else.
The body of a 2D fits in the head. Once you shove it all the way in, it's almost snug... almost.
But with three set screws evenly spaced around the head, it stays snug and won't come back out. The set screws go through the head and press against the Mag body. They will be flush when screwed down.
I'm using one of the regular Aluminum heat sinks that I use for the Mags. I will put the led on a 20mm star on the heat sink and using the stock centering ring, it will all go together like stock.
I will add a Mag O Ring between the head and the Mag body. There's a little gap there, but the O ring is a tight fit.
I will use the stock switch and have cut off the horn on the Mag housing. Direct solder the wires to the Pos and Neg terminals and add a NANJG driver. I will not be using the stock LED. I have a couple of XM-L2 T6 3C LEDs coming to put into this D light and the C light too.
From the front, it will look stock. That is, until I stipple the reflector.
I added a couple extra chips to the driver, to give it a little more than 3 amps.
That's all for now. I have to wait for the LED and I have to figure out what battery or batteries to use. I don't have any 3AA holders at the moment, but I will probably just set it up where someone can use a 26650 and a dummy.
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03-01-13 Updates
I haven't forgotten these builds. I was just waiting for parts.
I got the XM-L2 T6 3C leds in today.
I am not sure if I am going to De-dome the one for the Defiant "C" or not.
I also got the "lens" for the "D" Defiant.
It's a photographic filter. 62mm UV filter. It only cost about $4.00 with shipping. Some of the least expensive ones are single coated and this one looks like it is.
99% of these filters can be taken apart easily. Usually there are two slots and you just unscrew the hold down ring.
I also got the batteries for both lights. The "D" light will use three of the Sub-C NiMHs and the "C" light will use three of the 4/5 Sub-C NiMHs.
I have already added magnets and shrink wrapped them.
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03-02-13 3C is DONE.
The XM-L2 T6 3C, is in place and wired up.
12x7135 driver is ready. I went back after this and put the copper braid mod on the gold plated spring.
The glass lens is in.
The finished light is 40mm shorter than the original and it's lighter too. The NiMH battery pack is in and it's time for Beam Shots.
The beam shots for the 3C are in Post # 23.
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03-02-13 Defiant "D" is now finished.
Not much to say. The "D" version of the Defiant light is done. It is using an XM-L2 T6 3C and has a NANJG driver with 10 chips on it. I will do beam shots tonight and I will compare the two.
This version has the stippled reflector and sports a glass lens now. It has a larger hot spot and a much brighter spill, which is what I wanted.
Here's an inside sample.
That's All Folks...