Noctigon Meteor M43 official sales and discussion thread

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AnhTran
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kiriba-ru wrote:
For sure.

Thanks, that’s good to know.
I thought the driver just use some input variable (voltages, resistance..) and some formulas to create constant current output, so any voltage within limit is ok because it just need to apply the voltage variable to the formulas. But it’s not as simple as that.

Another question, if i can create direct connection from charger to batteries (while they are still in the Meteor and still in parallel), so the driver also receive voltage from the charger, would there be any problem:
1) if the flashlight is off
2) if the flashlight is turned on

kiriba-ru
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I think yes.
You turn on flashlight ecu when you put cells in. After this cells voltage can gecrease but not increase.

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AnhTran
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kiriba-ru wrote:
I think yes.
You turn on flashlight ecu when you put cells in. After this cells voltage can gecrease but not increase.

Is there any problem if I don’t turn on the flashlight? Is there any voltage limit for the driver (even when it is off)
kiriba-ru
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It does not matter if your turn it on or not. Ecu recieves voltage after you put cells inside, and it will wonder if voltage will increase.
I dont know if there is input voltage limit. Dont think anyone tested it above 4.35v.

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Anthon
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What is the max sustained lumens level for the XPL HI version?

BeardedRaleigh
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Can i do a TA driver in my M43 with Narsil? also somehow still use the led’s in the switch?

Sorry if this has been talked about already, I’ve been out of the game awhile.

Slow is smooth, smooth is fast.

DB Custom
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Possibly, but there’s so very little vertical space inside the driver bay of the M43 that making it work is like brain surgery.

Dale

Touchofred
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Just ordered this light with Nichia 219. It is suppose to replace my TM06.

I’m very excited to get it ! Since I’ve looked at this light for a very long time. But had no reason to buy it. But now when my tm06 is acting weird, I have a reason, Big Smile

DB Custom
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Cool Red! Now you can mail me the TM06 and I’ll dissect it. Big Smile lol

Dale

Touchofred
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DB Custom wrote:
Cool Red! Now you can mail me the TM06 and I’ll dissect it. Big Smile lol

Haha Big Smile I could.
But it would be fun taking it apart myself and try to mod it somehow.
Not sure how though, and what to mod it with Facepalm

What would you do with it? LOL

DB Custom
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Nitecore likes to use a clear plastic insert in the head, it supports the driver and switch board and is problematic when it comes to modding. I’ve replaced the emitters in one of those and saw gains, perhaps a bump to the driver output… a serious mod to get a lot more output is quite a bit trickier. But still fun to attempt especially if you get a nice result. Wink

I guess, more specifically, if I had one that I was playing with I’d probably slice the domes off some Samsung LH351D’s and resistor mod the driver to see what kind of output and focus gains I could get. Better tint, more lumens, more throw… well, and the obvious larger wires, spring bypasses…

Dale

DB Custom
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Curious what y’all think about this…

I modified my M43 long ago, it once did 12,000 lumens but I think is only making around 10,000 now with the emitters having taken a beating. Pretty sure I have XP-L HI’s in it and an FET driver. I happen to have recently acquired some of the new Samsung emitters, both in 5000K 80 CRI which is a U6 power bin and in 5000K 70 CRI at the W6 power bin. I put 4 of the new W6 binned Samsungs in my Emisar D4S and it is doing just over 7200 lumens. So, what if I swapped out the HI’s in my M43 for these new Samsungs? Wonder what it would do?

I mean, if I can get the M43 to get the same out-the-front lumens as the D4S is showing (from each emitter) then it should be, hypothetically, capable of 21,600 lumens, right?

Dale

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Theoretically, yes. However, you would be pushing a lot of current through it, a lot more than say your XPL HIs since they have a lower forward voltage, especially the 80CRI one.

That means you have to beef up your connections to handle that massive current.

Other than that, I would calculate the amount of lumens you could get out of the R70 LH351D to be about:

12k lumens = 1000 lumen per emitter
1000 lumens x 1,10 efficiency factor of optics = 1100 LED lumens needed to reach 12 000 lumens with optics

1100 lumens/emitter = 12,6W of power

12,6W of power XPL HI= 1100 lumens XPL HI = 1450 lumens Samsung LH351D R70

1450 lumens LH351D x 12 = 17400 lumens

17400 LED lumens = 15 800 total lumens

So you would get 15 800 lumens out of it, a 31% boost without doing anything.

HOWEVER, since the forward voltage of the R70 LH351D is lower than the XPLHI, and even lower in the case of the R80 LH351D. Meaning you would push more current out of it, about 600mA/emitter. Meaning an additionnal 7,2A.

This is what you would get with a FET:

3,6V Forward V XPL-HI = 1100 lumens XPL HI
3,6V Forward V R70 LH351D = 1600 lumens

1600 lumens x 12 = 19200 lumens.

The 80CRI version can push even more current, and with 4 cells, you have more headroom to push even more power to get to say 21k lumens as you said.

DB Custom
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Let’s take another look at the D4S for a moment. 4 XP-L HI emitters net what in that light? Around 5000 lumens? And I was seeing about 6423 from the 80 CRI Samsungs. Then I got the W2 Samsungs and am now seeing 7348. Output win goes to the 70CRI W6 bin. Same 5000K tint. Not sure where you got it that the Vf was lower on the 80 CRI emitter than the 70 CRI variant. In a light it proves out to be opposite. In the ordering specifications both of these rate the Voltage binning at the generic F4, neither specify F2 or H2, so in hand there’s no real way to see that one has an advantage in forward Voltage over the other.

That’s why I said, if I can get 12 of these to perform in the M43 in the same manner of the D4S, then output would be insane! The 4 in the D4S are from a single 20650 cell, the 12 in the M43 would use 4 Samsung 30Q’s. A slight power supply advantage to the M43. (1 cell per 3 emitters vs 1 cell per 4)

I don’t like doing paper math on lights, I like building them to SEE what they can do. Big Smile I’ve tested lights with different cells WAY too much to believe in the paperwork. Crazy when a cell gives more amperage in a light, but less lumens than a “weaker” cell, but I’ve seen it a lot. FWIW, I’m not the only one to have noticed this.

I’m not in it for the science of it all, to me this is a pass-time hobby. Solitaire if you will. lol

Dale

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I’m just saying that usually, higher CRI emitters have lower forward voltages and can therefore be pushed to higher current levels. However, efficiency does drop a lot when doing this, so lumen output might actually be lower.

The 90CRI does have a considerably lower forward voltage in the datasheet, but it is less efficient in that regard.

DB Custom
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I just charged the 30Q’s, tested it. My M43 is, as of this moment, making 9108 lumens.

Dale

DB Custom
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Um, by merely wiping off the contact pad on the “driver” it now shows 10,246.5 lumens. Funny how that Norgel gets off the threads and onto the contacts… so this 10,246.5 reading comes after the first reading, and the subsequent wiping down with my T shirt.

Dale

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And just to show what a good contact cleaning can do, DeOxit Gold netted me 11,074 lumens.

Keep em clean people! Keep em clean! Big Smile (as if I myself do that. lol)

Dale

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BeardedRaleigh wrote:
Can i do a TA driver in my M43 with Narsil?
Yes. I did it a while back, but mine runs Andúril. Party

I piggybacked a TA driver onto a depopulated Meteor driver.

BeardedRaleigh wrote:
also somehow still use the led’s in the switch?
Probably, but I wasn’t into lighted switches back then so I didn’t pursue it.

Instead of my method, you might look into a correct-diameter driver from Lexel.

Newlumen
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DB Custom wrote:
I just charged the 30Q’s, tested it. My M43 is, as of this moment, making 9108 lumens.

I just tested my two m43 lights with the TA tube..

M43 xp-g2 s4 3d. 6200 lumen @ 5 sec

M43vn xpl dedome. 9520 lumen @ 5 sec

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DB Custom wrote:
I don’t like doing paper math on lights, I like building them to SEE what they can do. Big Smile I’m not in it for the science…

It sounds like you’re in it precisely for the science. Running numbers on paper is good for theoretical purposes, but actually doing it for real to see what happens is science. It’s great fun. Smile

So can we still call you Dr. Frankendale?

goshdogit wrote:
I piggybacked a TA driver onto a depopulated Meteor driver. … mine runs Andúril.


I think you just made someone in Russia cry.

DB Custom
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Lol , I did that right after I got my M43… UI was too complex for me. What I’m contemplating now is rebuilding it wit 4 drivers…a Master carrying Anduril and 3 slaves such that each triple board is run by it’s own driver . With the W2 binned Samsung this should prove interesting…

Dale

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Where should I say I got my Doctorate in Frankenology TK? BLFU?

Dale

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ToyKeeper wrote:
I think you just made someone in Russia cry.
I know, I know, but I still have (and love!) a stock Meteor running UI 3. Big Smile
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goshdogit wrote:

I piggybacked a TA driver onto a depopulated Meteor driver.

CryingCrying

BTW as I remember , driver of M43 could be modded to 12A(10klm with xpl hi) vs. 8A in stock.

DB Custom
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Well, my M43 doesn’t particularly like being pushed really really hard. Wink

I rebuilt it today, used 12 of the Samsung LH351D W2 5000K emitters on 2 Noctigon triple MCPCB and 2 SinkPAD triple MCPCB. I used 20ga Teflon leads direct from the battery contact to the positive on each of 4 boards, then ran a 20 ga Turnigy lead to the neg on each board from each of 4 SIR800DP MOSFET’s. One FET+1 driver is complete and has Anduril, the other 3 driver boards are only populated with an FET and an 7135 chip, with 26ga Teflon wires running signal to each component.

It’s been a chore to pull off, but I think the switch is not accurate enough for Anduril, it’s hit or miss getting functionality. But, with fresh or semi-fresh 30Q cells I’ve seen 16,732.5 lumens and 16,801.5 lumens in the box. The light doesn’t like this, runs 5 seconds and shuts off. So it needs work but I’m tired and not wanting to work on it any more today. Silly

Dale

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Ah as expected. There is something limiting the current somewhere. You need some thicker 18GA wire somewhere.

Are the springs bypassed? Not really going to help too much with the Intl Outdoor springs, but every mV helps at such high power levels.

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DB Custom wrote:
16,801.5 lumens in the box. The light doesn’t like this, runs 5 seconds and shuts off.

I wonder if this is the old FET ringing issue coming back, like on banggood’s X6 drivers. It could be running at turbo for 5 seconds, sensing an overheat condition, then ramping down… which takes the FET from always-on to PWM. And then the PWM pulses cause enough electrical noise to reboot the MCU. Same reason why the old X6 driver didn’t work with a triple.

I’m not sure, but it’s one possible explanation for what you saw.

DB Custom
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Addressed an issue with one of the Teflon positive leads, getting 17,284.5 lumens when I can engage Turbo. And lightning mode, when I can get there, is freaking AWESOME! Big Smile

There is insufficient space for 18ga Silicone coated wires. This light was built around a driver that was built for this light, there is little to no extra space, so I used the heaviest Teflon coated wire I had because it tends to be thinner at similar gauges while still carrying enormous loads.

I’m thinking these 30Q’s are not capable of the maximum load being pulled from them, they are not new after all and have been used in other hard hitting lights before this one. I don’t know how many amps this thing is pulling but it’s bound to be a lot… each of the Samsung emitters is making 1440 lumens so I would guess the current is in the 60A ball park. Not sure what will happen if I get better cells and even more output, but of course y’all know I will try…

The heat in this rather compact light from this kind of output is just insane.

Dale

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I really don’t like stripping Teflon coated wires, it’s a chore, especially on a 26ga wire. But in this case it worked even if it took me forever…

What a mess, huh? LOL

Dale

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