Convoy S2+ Desert Tan Available Now!

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MascaratumB
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Take a look here Wink
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/997056#comment-997056
Just follow the instructions, it is really easy Thumbs Up

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

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djozz
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18pcs wrote:
Got the delivery of the S2+ today. I would be obliged if someone could suggest simplest way to program just one mode – 100%. Thanks

Mode group 12 is 100% only.

The actions: switch flashlight on and half-press the switch more than 10 times until the flashlight stops giving light, wait for first ‘buzz’ and click flashlight off. Click flashlight on again, after 12 blinks switch flashlight off. Now it should be 100% only.

J-Dub74
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18pcs wrote:
Got the delivery of the S2+ today. I would be obliged if someone could suggest simplest way to program just one mode – 100%. Thanks

With the light on tap the switch button repeatedly until it stops flashing.

When the first flickering “buzz” happens tap the switch again. This puts it into config mode. It will start counting. One flash then a pause, two flashes then a pause, three flashes then a pause, etc. all the way up until it counts out 12 flashes. Click the light off during the pause after 12 flashes. When you turn your light back on again it should be in mode group #12 which is simple on-off. Hope that helps. It takes a few tries to get used to doing it but it’s much easier once you get the hang of it.

Edit
Dang it! Jos beat me to it. Big SmileSilly

Edit Edit
How cool is to belong to a forum where people race to be the first to jump in and help another member? Thumbs Up

djozz
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So who gave the best description ? Big Smile

18pcs
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J-Dub74 wrote:
18pcs wrote:
Got the delivery of the S2+ today. I would be obliged if someone could suggest simplest way to program just one mode – 100%. Thanks

With the light on tap the switch button repeatedly until it stops flashing.

When the first flickering “buzz” happens tap the switch again. This puts it into config mode. It will start counting. One flash then a pause, two flashes then a pause, three flashes then a pause, etc. all the way up until it counts out 12 flashes. Click the light off during the pause after 12 flashes. When you turn your light back on again it should be in mode group #12 which is simple on-off. Hope that helps. It takes a few tries to get used to doing it but it’s much easier once you get the hang of it.

Edit
Dang it! Jos beat me to it. Big SmileSilly

Edit Edit
How cool is to belong to a forum where people race to be the first to jump in and help another member? Thumbs Up

Thanks a million. It worked at the first attempt. Although I really don’t know what I did, but got the desired setting, so don’t care. Thank you Jos and I am also really grateful to everyone on this wonderful forum. It indeed is a privilege to be a part of this family. Thanks again.

angerdan
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djozz wrote:
So who gave the best description ? Big Smile

I guess the full-quote with the third picture within one hour Big Smile
Pete7874
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angerdan wrote:
djozz wrote:
So who gave the best description ? Big Smile

I guess the full-quote with the third picture within one hour Big Smile

Sometimes you need to read the same thing three times before you get it. Smile
Silver Man
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I have a question, can i use two RCR123A in this flashlight instead of one 18650? I mean in this discussed tan s2+ version with new firmware?

BobbyMK
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Short answer, NO. It will kill the led and the driver in an instant.

You can however buy 17mm buck driver and mod the light, but that usually means no biscotti or any other BLF developed firmware.

 Olight i3s, Olight S1, Olight S Mini, JetBeam Jet-1, BLF 348, Astrolux S41S, UF SK-98, Convoy S2+ 3*XP-G2, Convoy S2+ 3*XPL, Convoy S2+ 219CT, Convoy M1, Convoy C8, Brinyte B158, Courui D01, Convoy L6, Noctigon M43

Silver Man
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I have just some of 123 – so it is not the problem Smile Will not use them for sure Smile

MascaratumB
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Persechini wrote:
[…] I tried using sandpaper to smooth the inside rim of the clip, but that doesn’t help a lot, and bending it wider it’s easy to overshoot the correct size. Ultimately, I don’t think snap-on clips can be used without doing some damage on the short run. My first S2+ I used with the same type of clip, it fit more snugly, but it just took a few more turns to the scratches to start showing.[…]
&
keltex78 wrote:
Regarding the clip: I had the same scratching issue with the clip on my S2 (non +) but it’s not a big deal since I have no need to remove the clip. I find the clip to be an excellent fit and like it as it is, especially as I pocket carry with a clip, almost exclusively. The Convoy clip works well for me!

I tried heatshrink tube today on the clip in another light mod and it worked!
I also used in the S2+ tan and works fine, doesn’t leave the scratches it once did Wink

I just remembered what we talked about before and wanted to share!

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

Mods: 1 / 2 / 3                                           Reviews: 1 / 2

Persechini
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@MascaratumB

Cool!

In my Tree

My collectionConvoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 ― Trustdire: Z2 ― Sofirn: SF10 / SF12

Silver Man
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Just receive my parcel, the flashlight is gorgeous Smile This is my second Convoy S2+
But what does BATTERY CHECK mode means? It just blinks 3 short times, then again and again – and nothing more.

eggmang
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Silver Man wrote:
Just receive my parcel, the flashlight is gorgeous Smile This is my second Convoy S2+ But what does BATTERY CHECK mode means? It just blinks 3 short times, then again and again – and nothing more.

The number of flashes indicates battery charge level I believe.

4 flashes = highest charge level (close to or full battery)
3 “
2 “
1 flash = lowest charge level (low battery)

I am not sure which actual battery voltage values the number of blinks correspond to but I hope this helps in some way Thumbs Up

Silver Man
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I was thinking it will give voltage information as in Nitecore for example. Ok.

BTW i rewrite the programming guide to add more structure to it (IMHO), so you can check it Smile

Jack Kellar
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Image link’s broken Sad

Silver Man
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Just check it – working ok.
Try this – here

Pete7874
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Ugh… once again you guys made me buy another flashlight…

I was walking around with my old S2+ (Blue XM-L2 T6-3B 7135*4) last night and admired how comfortable it felt in my hand. It is such a great EDC light. So now it’s going to have a younger brother – Desert Tan XPL HI U6-3A 7135×8. Can’t wait to get it.

Phlogiston
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Silver Man wrote:
BTW i rewrite the programming guide to add more structure to it (IMHO), so you can check it Smile

In the third row: shouldn’t the “Enter into the first mode” box read “(if the mode memory is off)”?

For clarity, I would also change the “Enter into next mode” box to read “Enter into saved mode” or similar. The current text almost makes it sound as if the light has Next Mode Memory, which is a different system (and one just about everyone seems to hate).

MascaratumB
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Silver Man wrote:
I was thinking it will give voltage information as in Nitecore for example. Ok.

BTW i rewrite the programming guide to add more structure to it (IMHO), so you can check it Smile

[…]

Can you believe that only today, due to your diagram, I realized that there was a “long tap” option to get back to the lowest mode? Whatta….?! FacepalmFacepalmFacepalm
I don’t believe me! How could I not know that…?
Well, thank you for your effort and for the help on this! Thumbs Up

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

Mods: 1 / 2 / 3                                           Reviews: 1 / 2

maukka
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MascaratumB wrote:
Can you believe that only today, due to your diagram, I realized that there was a “long tap” option to get back to the lowest mode?

It’s not really a long tap. You just cut the power for a while and the light shuts off. Then it restarts on the lowest mode just like if you would have fully clicked twice with a pause in between.

Pete7874
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Sorry if this was covered earlier, but why is the mode spacing what it is, meaning a huge jump from 35% straight to 100%?

If you have the 8×7135 setup, and the light gets super toasty on 100%, then wouldnt it make sense to have a mode that is closer to maybe 60-70% to make the heat more manageable while still giving fairly decent output?

I know there is the 50% MAX mode, but then you cant go higher than this without reprogramming.

Jack Kellar
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Pete7874 wrote:
Sorry if this was covered earlier, but why is the mode spacing what it is, meaning a huge jump from 35% straight to 100%?

If you have the 8×7135 setup, and the light gets super toasty on 100%, then wouldnt it make sense to have a mode that is closer to maybe 60-70% to make the heat more manageable while still giving fairly decent output?

I know there is the 50% MAX mode, but then you cant go higher than this without reprogramming.


Because there’s little visible difference between 35% and 100%. Human perception isn’t a linear curve, if anything it tapers off at the higher numbers like a logarithm.

MascaratumB
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maukka wrote:
It’s not really a long tap. You just cut the power for a while and the light shuts off. Then it restarts on the lowest mode just like if you would have fully clicked twice with a pause in between.

Thanks for the explanation maukka!! I then realized that that was just a slight longer tap than the quick tap for changing modes!
It works fine, I just didn’t know it could do that Facepalm
Thank you! Thumbs Up

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

Mods: 1 / 2 / 3                                           Reviews: 1 / 2

PBWilson
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Pete7874 wrote:
Sorry if this was covered earlier, but why is the mode spacing what it is, meaning a huge jump from 35% straight to 100%?

If you have the 8×7135 setup, and the light gets super toasty on 100%, then wouldnt it make sense to have a mode that is closer to maybe 60-70% to make the heat more manageable while still giving fairly decent output?

I know there is the 50% MAX mode, but then you cant go higher than this without reprogramming.

I also questioned this before buying but after using my S2+ for a while I realized that the spacing is very well done and thought out.

WalkIntoTheLight
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Jack Kellar wrote:
Pete7874 wrote:
Sorry if this was covered earlier, but why is the mode spacing what it is, meaning a huge jump from 35% straight to 100%?

If you have the 8×7135 setup, and the light gets super toasty on 100%, then wouldnt it make sense to have a mode that is closer to maybe 60-70% to make the heat more manageable while still giving fairly decent output?

I know there is the 50% MAX mode, but then you cant go higher than this without reprogramming.


Because there’s little visible difference between 35% and 100%. Human perception isn’t a linear curve, if anything it tapers off at the higher numbers like a logarithm.

I think the real solution would be to put thermal regulation in the light at 100%. But, that might make it too expensive to be a budget light.

djozz
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WalkIntoTheLight wrote:

I think the real solution would be to put thermal regulation in the light at 100%. But, that might make it too expensive to be a budget light.

A well working thermal regulation, like in the D4,requires an only slightly more expensive MCU (the Attiny13A in the Convoy has no thermal sensor built in, the Attiny25 has one), and a willing Toykeeper to fine-tune the feedback software. So in production costs it is cheap but in effort in a way it is expensive because you need to 1) convince Simon to use a new component on his drivers, and 2) hire/convince an experienced expert (AKA TK) to get the algorithm done. Btw, I’m sure that the same temperature algorithm of the D4 works fine for an S2+ too.
Wildcat
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Just standart Convoy driver + thermoresistor + firmware from fonarevka.ru and you will get the most advanced budget linear driver in the world Wink
Thermocontrol, full customization, no PWM (!) in all medium and high modes (350 mA and higher).

vulpes
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Hi Wildcat, can you explain a little more?

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vulpes wrote:
Hi Wildcat, can you explain a little more?

http://forum.fonarevka.ru/showthread.php?goto=newpost&t=32449

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