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Trevi_lux
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Impressive review Mr freeme!!!
Thanks!!

Tom E
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I hear you, but I figure I can compare it - it's a 16340 light, so is my S1. I don't have an S10, I have an S1. I have other 16340 lights as well, but budget cheap ones. So, the S1 is all I can compare it to, so I will. I have other disappointing Olight lights and I'm fine with never buying another Olight again, until they make them serviceable and upgradable, and stop fooling us by giving out review samples that are not glued, and shipping production units that are glued.

I'll take a clone of an Olight light over the "original" every time. Chances are better than 50% the clone will be better in quality, tint, usability and serviceability, so why not?

Sullysat
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Tom E wrote:

I hear you, but I figure I can compare it – it’s a 16340 light, so is my S1. I don’t have an S10, I have an S1. I have other 16340 lights as well, but budget cheap ones. So, the S1 is all I can compare it to, so I will. I have other disappointing Olight lights and I’m fine with never buying another Olight again, until they make them serviceable and upgradable, and stop fooling us by giving out review samples that are not glued, and shipping production units that are glued.


I’ll take a clone of an Olight light over the “original” every time. Chances are better than 50% the clone will be better in quality, tint, usability and serviceability, so why not?


This is an interesting perspective, but one that I can certainly understand. I don’t actually own any Olights – mostly because I won’t pay what they want retail and I’ve just recently found this forum.

I’ve got an M3 on order and hope to see it soon. I purchased it based largely on this review (and the GearBest Flash sale) because I’m interested in small, powerful lights. After reading everyone’s comments, I can’t wait to get ahold of it.

This may be a silly question, given that it requires button top batteries, but can someone confirm that the battery shipped with the full set IS a button top? This will be my first light with this battery size, so if I need to get some batteries ordered I should do that now.

Awesome thread. Thanks to Freeme and everyone else who contributed information on this.

Tom E
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Yes, I'm frustrated with Olights... I got 2 S1's, one S15, and one S30 - all pretty useless to me. I guess I was over estimating my modding skills, think'n I could get them apart and fix up the UI, tint, and power, but, they are nothing but trouble...

 

For the battery - Yes, it's a button top. Did you order the 5C tint? I measured lumens for all modes in my PVC light box. #'s across the board are lower, including the ultra low mode.

For the 5C tint using a fresh EFEST V2 550 @4.20v:

  Ultra low: 2.3 lumens, low: 114 lumens, med: 224 lumens, hi: 456 lumens, turbo: 658 lumens

I'm think'n the 5C is not a U2 bin, but probably a T6 at best, more likely a T5 and that explains most of the lower readings.

I was able to pop out the pill - not difficult to do. A couple of light taps on a plunger (syringe plunger from a solder paste needle) from the tail and the pill assembly pushed out the top, after removing the bezel and reflector as freeme did, earlier posted.

Bad news is there's not much space, because the switch is mounted on a vertical PCB, and the diameter of the driver is pretty small. Piggybacking, maybe a 12 mm driver would fit. Good news is I do have 10 mm MtnE FET driver boards and a couple parts kits for the 10mm baords, so it's certainly do-able with what I have on-hand.

Also of note, they used thermal grease under the star with a screwed down reflector -- potentially bad combo, along with sharp edges for the wire holes. Mine had a tear through the LED+ wire at the point it passes through the pill top - potentially bad ground out could happen easy. The wires are either 26 or 24 AWG and 150C rated, not the better 200C wires we use. I'll take the sharp edges off the holes (using an xacto), and replace or cut down the wires before re-assembling. The side button is simple and will not get damaged from removing the pill - unlike the Olights.

 

 

Tom E
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Pics of the pill/driver:

 

Typical thin (~1.0 mm) alum MCPCB:

threads on reflector. There are two small guide holes on the top of the reflector that work well with SS tweezers:

Sharp edges in the holes love to cut silicone coatings:

Extra long wires, fairly thin:

Low Batt LED and it's resistor:

MCU #'s are sanded off, but GRND is on pin #8, so it's not an Atmel:

Possible resistor mod, maybe to those R050's:

 

The driver mounted in that brass ring easily popped out of the pill with a couple light taps on a screw driver ( I used a nail set), on the lip of brass where it's exposed, just under the switch.

narin000
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Awesome pics Tom, thank you! Does the LED look real?

Tom E
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Sure - looks CREE legit, also does well on a typical thin alum MCPCB, so it has to be genuine to get those output #'s, plus the super nice tint.

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amazing posts and pictures/information Tom, thanks!

Sullysat
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Thanks for the images and clarifications Tom E. I did get the 5C model, but I think those outputs will suffice for my use. If I choose to get a second one, I’ll try the 1A model.

After looking at your images, it’s pretty clear that some cleanup on the pill and boards might be necessary, but that’s easy enough if it performs well.

Your comments and images connected the OP and other comments to give a really complete picture of this torch. Thanks again.

CRX
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Thanks for the pictures, this ones just my type for fixin up a bit Smile

Tom E
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I did some minor modding with my M3 last night. The LED sits on a 16mm aluminum MCPCB that is ~1.0 mm thick. So I hot air removed the LED. I took a 16 mm Noctigon and sanded it down to about 1.35 mm thickness (from 1.6 mm stock), and reflowed the same LED on to it. I replaced the LED wires with shorter minimum length 24 AWG wires, and used a good thermal grease (GC-Extreme).

Results were nice, as expected. After 30 secs on turbo, I got a true 10% bump in lumens output, and noticed in the first 30 secs, output doesn't drop as much as it used to. Ultra low and low were unaffected, and small bump in hi mode.

Original stock turbo, lumens: 680 @start, 658 @30 secs

On Noctigon turbo, lumens: 734 @start, 724 @30 secs

So even at a relatively low 2.28A, a copper DTP MCPCB makes a nice difference.

 

Still want to get a decent driver in there, but may have to wait a while.

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flashmaster wrote:

The M3 chargers charge up to exactly 4.27V …
Mine too.

I bought a pack gift to give away to a beginner…
I hate “protected” but I will buy one to change it. I do not think it will be is a problem, aside to shorten battery life, but…

Edit… Checking the battery capacity on MC3000, 1A discharge rate and cut at 3V.
Charged on OTR… 4.27V… 668mAh
Charged on I4… 4.20V… 633mAh

Can be 4.35V battery? I will charge it with the OTR and I will observe for a few days.

If anything can go wrong, it will.
Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value.

flashmaster
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antiparanoico wrote:


Edit… Checking the battery capacity on MC3000, 1A discharge rate and cut at 3V.
Charged on OTR… 4.27V… 668mAh
Charged on I4… 4.20V… 633mAh

Can be 4.35V battery? I will charge it with the OTR and I will observe for a few days.

Thank you for your post. A 16340 4.35V? I am curious about your results. Could you please report here.
If you buy protected, watch the size. I tried Olight and AW 16340. It worked but I heard the spring cracking inside when I srcewed down the tailcap.

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My M3 5C came in today… This is a nice little light. I may install a Noctigon at some point, but it is not really needed. This is plenty of light output for this class of light. Freeme, thanks for the deal!

EDC rotation:
Convoy S2+, 6*7135, XM-L2 3D, 10 degree TIR, PilotDog lighted tailcap.
Convoy S2+, H17F, XM-L2 4C, lighted tailcap
Zebralight SC52w-L2
Zebralight SC62w
Olight S1A
Olight S1R

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Does anyone know of a way to disable the low voltage blinking? Using 3v CR123 primary’s the LV blinker blinks constantly. Giving one to my Father-in-law along with 4 Panasonic CR123A’s.

I purchased 2 lights without the kit. I will pick up some 16340’s for myself, but my FIL won’t want to deal with charging flashlight batteries.

saypat
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and I thought my CR123 was running out of juice. Guess not. Thanks. I like how it lights up RED with OTR on it.

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I just tested with my Soshine RCR123 3V LiFePo4. LVP kicked in about 2.8V. I doubt that is a method to disable the flashing red light.

Forgive my ignorance, is there driver that is able to differentiate the battery types and fully drain the cell? 

RobertB wrote:
Does anyone know of a way to disable the low voltage blinking? Using 3v CR123 primary's the LV blinker blinks constantly. Giving one to my Father-in-law along with 4 Panasonic CR123A's. I purchased 2 lights without the kit. I will pick up some 16340's for myself, but my FIL won't want to deal with charging flashlight batteries.

©freemex1thedeals.com

Andybibbville
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I received mine today. I ordered the 1A and I’m going to tell you that is the brightest 600 lumens I’ve ever seen. It’s as bright as my convoy s2 8*7135 1a. You can’t tell the difference between them when I double click my OTR M3 it’s bright. I really love it.

John 12:46 “I have come into the world as a light, so that no one who believes in me should stay in darkness.” Genesis 1:3 And God said, “Let there be light,” and there was light.
RobertB
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freeme wrote:

I just tested with my Soshine RCR123 3V LiFePo4. LVP kicked in about 2.8V. I doubt that is a method to disable the flashing red light.

Forgive my ignorance, is there driver that is able to differentiate the battery types and fully drain the cell? 

RobertB wrote:
Does anyone know of a way to disable the low voltage blinking? Using 3v CR123 primary’s the LV blinker blinks constantly. Giving one to my Father-in-law along with 4 Panasonic CR123A’s. I purchased 2 lights without the kit. I will pick up some 16340’s for myself, but my FIL won’t want to deal with charging flashlight batteries.

I don’t think there is any driver that can differentiate cell types. You would think it would be easy to code the driver to disable the blinking LV indicator, since they had to code it to function in the first place. My Chinese is nil or I would email them to ask.

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RobertB wrote:
I don’t think there is any driver that can differentiate cell types. You would think it would be easy to code the driver to disable the blinking LV indicator, since they had to code it to function in the first place. My Chinese is nil or I would email them to ask.

The Fenix E15 does kind of differentiate. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/44099

ReManG wrote:
This light does have Low Voltage Protection (LVP), BUT IT IS ONLY ON YOUR 16340 IF IT IS ABOVE 3.0V WHEN INSERTED. If you have a partially depleted 16340, and you put it in, this light will run it flat. You see, it thinks anything below 3.0V at turn on is a CR123 and it wants to suck everything it can out of those batteries.

8) Lube Threads Everyday 8)

da1510a
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Andybibbville wrote:
I received mine today. I ordered the 1A and I’m going to tell you that is the brightest 600 lumens I’ve ever seen. It’s as bright as my convoy s2 8*7135 1a. You can’t tell the difference between them when I double click my OTR M3 it’s bright. I really love it.

I have an S2+ 8*7135 arriving so I can’t compare yet but someone did a review here and basically said the same.
https://youtu.be/_wfSUfMFCVo

So far this light is taking over my Olight S1 for EDC duty. I’m tempted to get another one.

freeme
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Convoy S2+ 8*7135 should be brighter as OTR M3 is ~400mA behind. 
 

da1510a wrote:
Andybibbville wrote:
I received mine today. I ordered the 1A and I’m going to tell you that is the brightest 600 lumens I’ve ever seen. It’s as bright as my convoy s2 8*7135 1a. You can’t tell the difference between them when I double click my OTR M3 it’s bright. I really love it.
I have an S2+ 8*7135 arriving so I can't compare yet but someone did a review here and basically said the same. https://youtu.be/_wfSUfMFCVo So far this light is taking over my Olight S1 for EDC duty. I'm tempted to get another one.

©freemex1thedeals.com

Andybibbville
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da1510a wrote:
Andybibbville wrote:
I received mine today. I ordered the 1A and I’m going to tell you that is the brightest 600 lumens I’ve ever seen. It’s as bright as my convoy s2 8*7135 1a. You can’t tell the difference between them when I double click my OTR M3 it’s bright. I really love it.

I have an S2+ 8*7135 arriving so I can’t compare yet but someone did a review here and basically said the same.
https://youtu.be/_wfSUfMFCVo

So far this light is taking over my Olight S1 for EDC duty. I’m tempted to get another one.


That is a very good video review.I agree 100% to me it is every bit of 920 lumens.
John 12:46 “I have come into the world as a light, so that no one who believes in me should stay in darkness.” Genesis 1:3 And God said, “Let there be light,” and there was light.
Sullysat
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Just got my M3 – the 5C model. It is quite bright and, yes, rivals my S2+ 7135×8.

I really like the modes and the way the blinkies are hidden. Nice to have them if I need them but out of my way.

I’m going to carry it in my EDC bag for a while and see how it goes. Right now, I’m not sure. The truth is that it may actually be TOO small for my everyday needs.

Very nice light though. Looks well made and it’s definitely a handsome torch.

One last thing. The button. It’s very… different. At first it felt faulty, but it’s just different than any of the other lights I’ve had. After a bit of playing with it, it started to feel normal to me.

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antiparanoico wrote:

Can be 4.35V battery? I will charge it with the OTR and I will observe for a few days.
July 05 – 4.27V
July 19 – 4.22V

If anything can go wrong, it will.
Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value.

lostheplot
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thanks freeme

awesome little lightd

sorry all images down
thanks photobucket

freeme
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For the OTR fans, M6 group buy is coming soon. cool

How can we not have a 18650 version?

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Great news! Thumbs Up

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freeme wrote:

For the OTR fans, M6 group buy is coming soon. cool



How can we not have a 18650 version?

Love

Sorry for my bad English (gogole transtorla)

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freeme wrote:

For the OTR fans, M6 group buy is coming soon. cool



How can we not have a 18650 version?


I am interested

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