The 4th Annual BLF / O-L Contest; MtnDon's Entry, Hand Made Class

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MtnDon
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The 4th Annual BLF / O-L Contest; MtnDon's Entry, Hand Made Class

This is a “hand made” entry.

This project evolved through several incarnations over many months of day dreaming. There were a few constants. Use of a remote phosphor was one. A second constant was that this would be a camping lantern design, not a traditional flashlight. I wanted to light an area, not objects in the distance. I think the remote phosphor design is a natural for a lantern type of light. I guess that remains to be seen. LOL I want extended run time more than brilliance and bedazzlement. Lastly, I want to use some wood parts.

The remote phosphor comes from DigiKey. (photo) DigiKey stocks a small number of the variety made by Intematix,under the name ChromaLit. FYI, data sheet is here… The one I selected has a color temperature of 5000 K. I do like neutral more than warm light. It is a dome shape, 26 mm high with a base diameter of 42 mm.

Intematix makes a variety of forms, shapes and sizes in an assortment of color temperatures. One difficulty is finding a source for the shape/type that is desired.

Remote phosphors utilize special emitters. I have some Cree XT-E Royal Blue emitters. These have no phosphor built in. Output wave length is 450 to 455 nm. I bought from an ebay seller. The emitter came on a 20 MM aluminium MCPCB. That should be sufficient for the envisioned low amperage use.

I have a 35 mm diameter heatsink I got from fasttech.

The driver: I have a Nanjg 101-AK-A1 on order. It has custom firmware, no memory. The levels, in percentages, are… 2%, 6%, 15%, 28%, 50%, 100%.

I plan to use at least 4 parallel connected 18650 cells to extend the illumination duration. I chose the 30Q’s because I have some of them doing nothing but taking up space. Flat tops.

I am going to try to incorporate a small digital voltmeter readout. That could be useful. Perhaps a later version with power pack ability as well as a built in charger will be attempted if this prototype works out.

Photos, we have photos. Big Smile

The phosphor dome is 42 mm across the bottom. The heat sink is 35 mm diameter x 16mm high. The XT-E is on a 20 mm star.

Illumination test, 2.59 volts 0.018 amp. The “royal blue” color of the bare emitter is evident.

Next is the same power settings with the phosphor dome placed over the emitter.

The emitter with phosphor dome with the voltage cranked up and the amps at 1.400

Hmmm… the workbench top sure appears beaten up in the photos. Big Smile

Thanks for looking.

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Edited by: MtnDon on 08/16/2017 - 15:10
MtnDon
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DBSAR
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Interesting concept in using the remote-phosphor set up. Thumbs Up

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

eebowler
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I love your concept!! Best wishes MtnDon!

My gratitude to those who are willing and able to help others (in whatever way you can)! Being human is more than just existing for yourself. Smile

khas
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Great concept, very interesting build Thumbs Up

Rufusbduck
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More uniqueness, what a great idea.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Good luck with the build, MtnDon.

Nice to see the remote phosphor setup being used.

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Magic led. This will be interesting. Thumbs Up

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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Thanks for the kind words.

Now there will be a lull in activity. I need to get the present stage of my home remodel project completed before I can spend much time on this. New ceramic tile floors and 33 new red oak stair treads have some higher level priority over this ‘light. I don’t know how that happened. Wink

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pinkpanda3310
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Never seen anything like this. Question – could you use any led that has had the phosphor stripped off? For example, I know I am not the only one who has stripped an mt-g2 trying to dedome it. Could an mt-g2 give more efficiency at these lower power levels?

MtnDon
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One would think that any LED without the phosphor layer should work. I am no expert… am just beginning to dabble in this remote phosphor / royal blue wavelength thing. The claim is that an emitter such as the XT-E royal blue, is more efficient with a remote phosphor than the same emitter with the phosphor attached. Cree and Intematix have assorted literature if you search online.

FWIW, I have also seen quad emitter versions much like an XPH35/XPH50 in choices of 6 and 12 volts. And just now I did an ebay search and found a 3 volt quad version here.

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Rufusbduck
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It’s a neat idea for ambient lighting but counter to the point source we need for a focused beam. This contest is a great place to explore such notions as it probably gets wider notice and there isn’t a presumption of throw.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Well, I stole a couple of hours from home improvements this afternoon. Shocked

Has anyone wondered how this led and remote phosphor was to be utilized in my lantern light? Here’s what I have been thinking of.

That is a mug that has a Ball Jar type threaded top. Sixteen ounce size. have a pint, eh! I found it online at “discountmugs” They sell promo items with company logos. They also sell samples with no logos. It comes without a lid so now my wife’s pantry is short one lid and ring.

The plan is to mount the heatsink on the top of the lid…

Heatsink, lid and LED sandwich…

Plan A would be to mount the phosphor dome right over the LED / MCPCB

That places the dome up and behind the metal screw on lid band. I’m not sure if that would cut light output or not. Plan B is to make a spacer to move the dome down. So the making of a prototype spacer is featured next. (that will post shortly in the next message)

After I have the spacer done, when it is dark tonight, I can compare Plan A to Plan B. Unfortunately it will have to be a visual estimation comparison as I have no lux meter

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Splott-Light
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Hi MtnDon,

Nice concept.

Photo’s not showing as of Sunday Night GMT +1 (England).

Cheers,

Splott-Light Smile

Ouchyfoot to a New Member: Welcome CJ. Now you have to learn about buying an inexpensive flashlight and modifying it until it either blows up, or starts small fires on the moon…………

Hugh Johnson:
I, too, once lived a tragic and empty life. Then I found [portable] light.
You forgot to mention clothes. I sold most of my clothes to fund my light collection. This is actually fine, since I only go out after dark, and most people can’t see me.
Finally, I got my priorities straight.

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I’ll have a mug of your finest hi cri please to go with my BLF.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Prototype spacer. I also have other reasons for using a spacer. I’ll get into that later after I see if there is any light output penalty…

First step is to use the drill press to hole saw a blank…

The first blank was done with a 2-1/4” saw and was too small. This one with the 2-1/2” was a tad too large to fit inside the neck…

The drill press was used again along with a rasp and then sandpaper…

That did work although the blank turned out slightly out of round. End grain and side grain of the wood removed at different rates I guess. Then I sawed out the center…

We have a donut!!

I used 80 grit paper on the benchtop to hand sand down the high spots…

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MtnDon
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To locate the position of the heat sink mount holes I made a pencil tracing. Yes, I am a mystery / detective fan!! Wink

The punch marked the holes…

With the holes drilled through the lid, the LED was trial fitted with the heatsink on the top side of the lid. The spacer was temporarily fixed in place with double stick tape…

Like so…

Some temporary power hookup and we have light!!!

Now to wait for nightfall to see if the spacer causes any appreciable reduction in light output. Don’t know if many photons will get absorbed by the wood. Maybe line the spacer with aluminium foil?? (I never should have put the window in the workshop / garage….)

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Splott-Light wrote:
Hi MtnDon,

Photo’s not showing as of Sunday Night GMT +1 (England).

Cheers,

Splott-Light Smile

I had a moment of brain fade and forgot how to post images here. Facepalm

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Rufusbduck
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Cool, you can pick up some efficiency by sticking a reflector in the donut. Anything that fits will recover energy lost into the wood. I think your right about end/side grain. To stay round the wood can’t wobble and the cutting surface(rasp, sandpaper, whatever) has to be fixed. At least that’s been my experience. Threads also seem to grab unevenly in the chuck so I use a carriage bolt with the end removed. Sometimes I’ll press a bushing into the table but that can be a false security and may or may not put more pressure on the chuck.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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If I have time tonight I’ll try it in the darkened shop with
(a.) the spacer as is now
(b.) the spacer with an OP reflector from an S2… it fits the hole and thickness of the board used
(c.) no spacer, dome right over the led.

I dug out my old Sekonic L28C2 photo light meter… really old school thing. (That dates me I think… LOL ) A selenium cell and analog meter. I have no idea if it will be able to discern differences at the light levels I intend.

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MtnDon
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Wow! I do wish I had a modern digital lux meter. I think that will be the next thing I buy. I’ll have to do a search on the topic of what’s good.

My old Sekonic analog meter showed the best output to be without any spacer and the dome placed directly over the emitter/mcpcb, listed above as setup (c.).

With setup (a.), the spacer in place but no reflector, the output was noticeably lower. In photographic terms there was slightly more than 1.5 f-stops less light, measured at the same point and distance from the dome.

With setup (b.), the Convoy S2 reflector inserted in the spacer center hole, the output was almost as good as with no spacer at all. Maybe only 1/4 f-stop less than no spacer at all, setup (c.). Considering that I have other reasons for the use of a spacer I believe this is the direction I will take. I used a small plastic “washer” under the reflector to insulate the reflector from the mcpcb.

I may do some further tests with a different reflector I have from an old mini-maglite and with changing the height of the reflector or perhaps the spacer thickness. But that will have to wait a bit.

Thanks to RFD for affirming that photons may be getting lost due to the wood spacer.

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Interesting project. Remote Phosphor was a new one on me. Always good to learn something new.

 

No spacer should be the brightest. Next the spacer with a reflector in it. The wood will definitely absorb light.

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MtnDon
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Some more prototyping…

First, for those who don’t know and want to know, a forstner bit is made to drill a flat bottom hle in wood. This is one…

I need a cell holder. Here’s my first idea/attempt. The layout on a glued up piece of pine. This is a first prototype. I intend to use hardwood for the final.

Here it is drilled and cut to rough size. Drilled with drill press and corners cut using a cut off / mitre saw

I neglected to take in between shots for this prototype. For the final I will remember! I used a coarse hand rasp, then a finer one. The final version will be taller or perhaps an upper and a lower disc with dowel or tubing separators.

The block and cells do fit through the neck of the mug…

… more later…

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MRsDNF
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Now thats different. I’ll be sure to check the bottom of my cup when I drop in for a drink. Thumbs Up

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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Cool! It seems likely you could fit a fifth cell in unless you’re planning a 2S2P arrangement.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Not quite enough space for a centered fifth with the size restraints caused by the mug neck inside diameter. There’d be no wood left to hold things together.

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mattlward
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Love the design, way outside the box! BTW, what is that little power supply?

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
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FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
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MtnDon
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mattlward wrote:
BTW, what is that little power supply?

Found it on ebay a while back. Search for “Mini Programmable Adjustable Digital Regulated Power Supply “ or something like that. For my flashlight needs I power it with a 30 year old TripLite 12 volt 10 amp benchtop power supply. The “MPADRPS” can put out amps but needs some fan cooling to sustain that. ….another little project that needs doing…. There may be better ones, but I only paid $20 probably a year ago.

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MtnDon
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Did some more today. I forgot myself and had glued up and begun to cut the cell block and missed taking some photos. Sad The block I believe I’ll be using started out glued up like this one. Except the one I used is maple, padauk and walnut, whereas the light colored wood here is red oak. The orange wood grows like that. It is african. Walnut is from a friend’s farm in VA and the maple is a left over from a 25 year old table project. never throw much out.

This is the one I am using. I cut the pieces mainly using the mitre saw. First I cut it to a square, more or less, then an octogon as shown. I end up with lots of cool little shapes of the different woods.

Then it was to a vice.

I began rounding off the sharp corners with a coarse wood rasp.

After a while it was somewhat more cylindrical

Next a switch to a finer toothed rasp/wood file

Much better, but only close…

Yes, that is me hand filing and using the camera self timer

Once the shape was close to what I wanted i also filed lengthwise to try and get the best cylindrical shape

This is a better fit than the first pine prototype.

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djozz
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This is a great project to watch! I’m sure the final lantern will be very nice, but even watching the making off is already a great pleasure.

Carry on please! Smile

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Never crossed my mind but the mug handle is just like the old 6V lantern cell flashlights. Pretty obvious when someone else thinks of it. Facepalm Good job! From here you could go with a tail standing area light as you planned or throw in your choice of reflectors behind the mason jar lid or both as so many “emergency lights” do.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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