BLF style 18650 1s thrower( poor mans Olight M2X)

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djozz
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Nah, a quick blow and that’s that, I do not care about a few specs, that does not affect throw. This is the advantage of a 14 dollar host, not much to ruin.

I like the feel of this light in the hand btw.

giorgoskok
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luminarium iaculator wrote:
Edit: I think I got you know Mitko (The pill can hold 16mm pcbs so i lowered it by 3mm, filled the gap with a thermal paste/ Cu pads and used a 26mm 3535 mcpcb)

Pill by default does not have enough height? If so we could also sacrifice 1 16mm noctigon and merge it with other 16mm one.

This will be easy 300+kcd light with old style XP-G2.

I’m planning to follow Mitko’s method when i receive the light and the 26mm Maxtoch mcpcb (with stock led) . If i don’t get good results i will have to try U4 0D , i have many dd xp-g2 lights (X6 , C8 , F13 , even L6 Silly ) .

ARsee
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Mitko wrote:
OMG djozz ....thats a real reflector abuse m8! Smile How could you kept it from the AL particles and the dust caused by the procedure? However, a real BLF work!

Not an approach I was expecting......

 

 

luminarium iaculator
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I don’t have it yet but I probably have solution for protruding driver wires of 16mm noctigon.

So if reflector base must not hit the wires (cause we want to achieve best focus) we could dremmel out small channel to main +- contact and then flat solder merge all. We could also use very small file or rasp here to dig towards +- contacts.

Something like this for example:

The question is would something be shorted that way? If not then it is 5 minutes job.

giorgoskok
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There are a lot of ways to do it .

Someone could solder small nickel strips at the end of every cable , and use heatshrinking tube in the connection .

Also someone else could solder perfect flat 22awg wires using a bevel tip (hoof tip) on his soldering iron ,

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Pretty easy for the solder to flow down into the channel and short out on the copper base, the channel would be cutting through the dielectric layer.

Simply use the thin tabs off a large Omten switch to route the contact pads further out, they’re very thin and should allow for focus.

Dale

ARsee
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By the time the bezel is screwed down to seal, there is very little room for wires when the reflector is compressed. The centering area on the reflector is "real" thin now, with the protection in stock form.

I was looking at the reflector, and hate to think about it, but, the area that touches the lens could be trimmed back?, to allow more room for the wires at the centering ring. It's not a great approach if one does not have the tools to do it selectively. This modding stuff, I can see it being a bugger without a lathe or mill at your disposal.

 

 

luminarium iaculator
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DB Custom wrote:
Pretty easy for the solder to flow down into the channel and short out on the copper base, the channel would be cutting through the dielectric layer.

Simply use the thin tabs off a large Omten switch to route the contact pads further out, they’re very thin and should allow for focus.

Yes… That is nice idea too Smile I just remembered that our member Cula already did that in B158 mod:

But Mitko says it needs to be air thin and this won’t be air thin…

Edit:

giorgoskok wrote:
There are a lot of ways to do it .

Someone could solder small nickel strips at the end of every cable , and use heatshrinking tube in the connection .

Also someone else could solder perfect flat 22awg wires using a bevel tip (hoof tip) on his soldering iron ,

Yes that is also nice idea…
You see guys that kind of light is awakening our creativity Thumbs Up

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I saw this somewhere at this forum:
wire from laptop battery pack…

ARsee
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I like that method, Hunter. I think the best way so far.

 

 

luminarium iaculator
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That looks fairly thin… Thumbs Up

luminarium iaculator
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djozz wrote:
I got mine in today and I’m not disappointed, not many real flaws, just the reflector needs work. I chose this elegant ( Wink ) solution below, now I can use a 20mm board with the wires on the outer edge of the solder pads. Mod in progress.. !https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2835/34167465032_1d3a222191_c.jpg!

That will be very interesting to see. I am also looking forward for your mod.

djozz
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luminarium iaculator wrote:
djozz wrote:
I got mine in today and I’m not disappointed, not many real flaws, just the reflector needs work. I chose this elegant ( Wink ) solution below, now I can use a 20mm board with the wires on the outer edge of the solder pads. Mod in progress.. !https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2835/34167465032_1d3a222191_c.jpg!

That will be very interesting to see. I am also looking forward for your mod.


Well, I tried a direct drive (no driver) Oslon black flat mod and it was a fail. For two reasons:
1)I could not get the Black Flat focussed well in all three dimensions (made the centering piece paper-thin, filed material off the bottom of the reflector, but still the led while closing it all eats its way a bit into the side of the centering piece causing a ever so slight off-centering, for a 1×1mm die that is deadly.

2)the way the light closes, in the final stage when tightening the bezel, the reflector starts rotating too, which is disastrous the way I modded the reflector. I finally managed to short everything out via the reflector and killed the switch.

Need new courage for this, this light brings back bad memories of hopeless mods from a few years ago, with its twisting reflector finding its own way while desperately trying to keep the correct focus Sick

DB Custom
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Use a light that has a threaded reflector, then when you assemble the light your internal relationships will remain fixed. Something like the Kronos X6, or the XinTin C8 (got that wrong, but you probably know what I mean)

Dale

djozz
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DB Custom wrote:
Use a light that has a threaded reflector, then when you assemble the light your internal relationships will remain fixed. Something like the Kronos X6, or the XinTin C8 (got that wrong, but you probably know what I mean)

Focussing a tiny 1×1mm die in a reflector this large is about fractions of a mm, you will probably notice a 50 micrometer off-center die in the shape and intensity of the hotspot. You will not get that right with a fixed assembly of internal parts. You either must have a precisely manufactured and rigid (better than I used) centerpiece that relates the die exactly to the reflector, or you need an adjustment system of the led (in 3 dimensions!) that can be employed after assembly (I can not imagine how that can be done in a mere flashlight)
luminarium iaculator
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djozz wrote:
luminarium iaculator wrote:
djozz wrote:
I got mine in today and I’m not disappointed, not many real flaws, just the reflector needs work. I chose this elegant ( Wink ) solution below, now I can use a 20mm board with the wires on the outer edge of the solder pads. Mod in progress.. !https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2835/34167465032_1d3a222191_c.jpg!

That will be very interesting to see. I am also looking forward for your mod.


Well, I tried a direct drive (no driver) Oslon black flat mod and it was a fail. For two reasons:
1)I could not get the Black Flat focussed well in all three dimensions (made the centering piece paper-thin, filed material off the bottom of the reflector, but still the led while closing it all eats its way a bit into the side of the centering piece causing a ever so slight off-centering, for a 1×1mm die that is deadly.

2)the way the light closes, in the final stage when tightening the bezel, the reflector starts rotating too, which is disastrous the way I modded the reflector. I finally managed to short everything out via the reflector and killed the switch.

Need new courage for this, this light brings back bad memories of hopeless mods from a few years ago, with its twisting reflector finding its own way while desperately trying to keep the correct focus Sick

So the part of reflector that is filled down while spinning around catches wires of 20mm pcb and then it shorts them. It needs free 360 degrees in order to center.

Solution is only to have totally flat mcpcb without protruding +- wires which will enable free reflector rotation and in that case mcpcb modding is needed or Mitko way with large mcpcb which really looks like the most simple working solution as it allows rotation and tight fit for best focus but as he said it would be nice to have full surface copper machined pill in Kiriba ru style for that.

djozz
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@l.i., yes, ultimately the Maxtoch board will be easiest. But even then, I set myself quite a challenge with the Black Flat: a reflector that rotates during tightening will always dig itself in, deforming the centering piece a bit and before you know it the led is off.

If I would design a large reflector thrower flashlight for the Black Flat, it would have a bezel that is screwed straight down instead of rotated (MRsDNF-style! looks cool too Cool )

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djozz wrote:
If I would design a large reflector thrower flashlight for the Black Flat, it would have a bezel that is screwed straight down instead of rotated (MRsDNF-style! looks cool too Cool )

You can remove the threads, and glue the bezel in place.

djozz
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Thinking of that, some notches on the edge of the reflector that are fixed by a protrusion in the head, or simply a flat bit in the reflector falling in a flat bit in the head, will do the job stopping rotation fine.

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You can’t glue the reflector in the sides of the head ?

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I would use the threaded reflector to adjust height for focus, I’d glue the mcpcb with Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive and adjust the placement of the emitter in the 5-10 minutes it takes for the Adhesive to cure. Put on the bezel and enjoy my light.

If the placement is so critical due to the small emitter size, then exacting precision on tolerances is the key. Starting with a $12 host is the nightmare. Choose the right host to begin with, or make it, and the problems solve themselves.

Dale

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Some outdoor beams shot I am using iPad mini 4 camera so don’t expect good photos. SupwildFire dd xml2 u4 od about 5000k I guess A6 fet+1 VS Jaxman X1 XHP35 HI 6500K, H2-C driver. That is 160M according to Google maps.
The first three Night photos SupwildFire the last three Jaxman x1. Don’t know how far on this! First two night photo is supwildfire last two jaxman x1 and indoor photo @9M indoor photo are supwildfire.

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It's hard to get a good photo of it. Is yours the same?

I was looking at the LED on the pill without the reflector in place. Everything (the pill itself) is out of center.

You guys might want to have a look. In the case of my light, a threaded reflector would be no resolution.

center

Nice beam shots, Tim It looks to throw a nice bit of light!

 

 

 

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The next one came , this time it`s a S4 1A based( from the old ones, 4.7amps capable) and tests shows it 280-300cds , the hotspot is nearly perfect, i just need to sand the pill this days, ordered some Ar glasses from KD and i am thinking about a new pill, the default one isnt that good.
The pill and the defautl driver are kinda different from the first one that i got

giorgoskok
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Mitko wrote:
The next one came , this time it`s a S4 1A based( from the old ones, 4.7amps capable) and tests shows it 280-300cds , the hotspot is nearly perfect, i just need to sand the pill this days, ordered some Ar glasses from KD and i am thinking about a new pill, the default one isnt that good. The pill and the defautl driver are kinda different from the first one that i got

Can you give us some measurements ? (Pill’s) Threads OD , height etc

If not , no problem at all Smile

Edit : Just measured my UT02 with dedomed S4 1A i made 3 days ago , i think the emitter is one of these djozz described as old-dot-pattern/new-phosfor-type and it’s making 300,4kcd with a rested Liitokala battery . It would be interesting to check this flashlight with this led too Big Smile

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Very encouraging results guys. Now I know I can expect around 330 from my mod.

But inconsistent production? LOL that should be really crazy adventure. But if it accepts UF T20 pill than there should not be any problem. Problem would be with inconsistent reflectors.

Edit this is fairly cheap and it should fit?

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Nope m8. Got those in the cashe…do not fits.
As i said t20 pill fits yet its designed for 16mm pcbs

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luminarium iaculator wrote:
Very encouraging results guys. Now I know I can expect around 330 from my mod.

But inconsistent production? LOL that should be really crazy adventure. But if it accepts UF T20 pill than there should not be any problem. Problem would be with inconsistent reflectors.

Edit this is fairly cheap and it should fit?

!https://img.fasttechcdn.com/120/1208600/1208600-5.jpg!

Keep in mind that Mitko uses original old S4 emmitters , you should probably expect 290-300kcd from it .

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Perseverence! Got the Black Flat working in this nightmare! I made no pictures, here’s some words:

-replaced the blown switch with the same KAN28
-Sanded the base of the reflector as thin as I dared, less than half a mm
-I already had cut away the sides of the reflector base to make room for the wires (see somewhere above in this thread)
-as also mentioned above I used a Black Flat on a 20mm Kaidomain DTP board (sanded down to 19mm), no driver and original driver board used as contact board, both springs bypassed with the cap over the tailspring removed, 30Q battery
-I had to bevel the inner edge of the pill quite a lot to allow the reflector to come close enough to the led, this was essential!!
-I still used a centering piece, reamed the hole a bit because the Black Flat is slightly bigger than 3535-size, and with the base of the centering piece sanded paper-thin, the reflector is now less than half a mm above the ledboard
-I cleaned the reflector after all that filing and sanding by soaking with water and soap, last rinse with distilled water. The reflector still looks quite abused though.
-sticked Kapton tape over the cut-outs on the reflector, and also over the ledwire solder blobs
-I silicon greased the thick o-ring on the inside of the bezel so that upon closing the bezel it would glide easier over the glass.
I positioned the reflector as well as I could over the led+centerpiece, glass on top and while pushing the glass down firmly with a rubber pad I could screw the bezel almost down to maximum tightness, but not the very last bit, so I fixed it by tightly wrapping the groove where bezel and head meet with two layers of cellotape (sounds ugly but it is hardly noticable, and very effective)

The led is in perfect focus but ever so slightly off-center: the hotspot looks fine but the corona is slightly assymmetrical. On an almost full (4.06V after all measurements) 30Q battery I measure 694 lumen (which is very close to max for this led), 5.0 amps and 343kcd (measured at 7 meter after 30 seconds). The output is pretty stable so heatsinking is good and the Black Flat seems happy sofar. If the led had been perfectly centered and I had not abused the reflector so much (and by using AR-coated glass) it could have been a bit better even.

Are there any numbers on an old-style dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B in a HD2010 btw? Could be over 400kcd I guess?

Here’s the hotspot on a white wall with the flashlight at 7 meters distance:

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