TK's Emisar D4 review

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hank
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alchemi
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hank wrote:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5313540/

From the Abstract —- with my additions….

The study results indicate that LED blue-light exposure poses a great risk of retinal injury in awake, task-oriented rod-dominant animals. The wavelength-dependent effect should be considered carefully when switching to LED lighting applications …. when you buy torches for your army of working rats. Grad

radellaf
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Not sure what that has to do with Emisar flashlights, since the 30s the D4 will stay on turbo only presents a risk if you point it at your face. Does make me feel good about preferring warmer tints like the 4000k XPG in my D4, 4000k XPL in D4S, and the new oddball Nichia 219D in the Folomov 18650S. I don’t know anything about the D, but wonder if it could handle D4/D4S currents better than the C. The Folomov seems to be putting 5A-ish through it.

3000-4000K definitely blunts that blue peak, 4500 on up it still dominates (some guesswork, the bins on Cree’s graph are really wide)

funkychateau
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Any ideas whether the XP-L HD emitter offered in the D4S will find its way into the D4 lineup?

radellaf
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The XPL HD doesn’t fit the optics of the D4. Never heard of an HP-L.

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robk wrote:
thank you for all your contributions here (as well as your occasionally raunchy humor…)

Now I’m curious what kind of raunchy thing I said. Generally I keep things pretty G-rated (or PG) around here.

About a shortcut to moon though, hold from off. Let go after half a second, and it should stay at moon. If you want it to remember that level, ramp up a little then back down, and it’ll remember. The memory isn’t really “last-used level”, but rather “last-ramped level”.

robk
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Thanks, TK, I was having an elder moment and being slow to get up to speed with the UI. As to that other matter, I seem to remember it having to do with working wood, and maybe a reference to sandpaper…

funkychateau
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radellaf wrote:
The XPL HD doesn’t fit the optics of the D4. Never heard of an HP-L.

My bad, should say XP-L HD. The one listed by Intl-outdoor as a new D4S option.

I’ll fix the typo.

radellaf
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Yeah, I wondered why they were going for the HI, with it’s (somehow) reduced output instead of the HD. I thought it was to add a bit of throw, though trying to do that to a D4 is kind of… well, it’s just a floody light with any emitter. But I think the HD won’t fit without some manual trimming of the dome. The D4S uses a completely different optic. If the HD had been available when I ordered my D4S, I probably would have gone for it. Then again, the white-wall tint profile of the HI is so much nicer.

robk
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I was late to the party with the D4, having just received mine. I am struck by how much I like the 3A tint in comparison to 1A or 3D. The 3A looks like a more neutral creamy white and makes me wonder why we hadn’t seen it more widely available sooner, as well as causing me to be curious what a 2A tint looks like. Any body else find the 3A a big step up in the right direction?
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XP-L HI produces a cleaner beam with more throw and better tint consistency. It’s powerful and it looks good.

XP-L HD produces somewhat more lumens, but it’s diluted across a wider beam so it doesn’t look brighter. It looks dimmer instead, and the tint is less consistent across the beam.

Nichia 219C provides good tint consistency and CRI, at the expense of being less throwy and generating a lot of heat.

Nichia 219B would make the nicest-looking beam of all, but it isn’t really available any more and it makes the fewest lumens by far.

LH351D can make a lot of lumens and also comes in high-CRI varieties, but it’s extremely floody and I haven’t found any which don’t look green.

XP-G2 is a pretty decent compromise choice, with decent all-around performance and relatively low cost, but it does not excel at anything in particular.

The emitters I’ve had the best results from are XP-L HI and Nichia 219B. It depends mostly on whether I want throw and performance, or if I want the most beautiful beam, but both make pretty nice-looking beams.

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robk wrote:
I was late to the party with the D4, having just received mine. I am struck by how much I like the 3A tint in comparison to 1A or 3D. The 3A looks like a more neutral creamy white and makes me wonder why we hadn’t seen it more widely available sooner, as well as causing me to be curious what a 2A tint looks like. Any body else find the 3A a big step up in the right direction?

3A is just like 3D, except about 250K colder. I like both, but I like 3D a little more. I’m pretty happy with 3A, 3D, or 4A.

Typically, the “A” and “D” tints are the ones which look best, and the choice of which one depends entirely on what color temperature you prefer. This chart shows where each tint bin is in the spectrum:

Chatika vas Paus
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TK, what do you think about nichia 319a 5000k with carclo 10623?

Forever beginner.

 

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Chatika vas Paus wrote:
TK, what do you think about nichia 319a 5000k with carclo 10623?

I don’t really think anything about it, because I haven’t tried it. It’s not something which had even crossed my mind before.

funkychateau
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ToyKeeper wrote:
XP-L HI produces a cleaner beam with more throw and better tint consistency. It’s powerful and it looks good.

XP-L HD produces somewhat more lumens, but it’s diluted across a wider beam so it doesn’t look brighter. It looks dimmer instead, and the tint is less consistent across the beam.

Nichia 219C provides good tint consistency and CRI, at the expense of being less throwy and generating a lot of heat.

Nichia 219B would make the nicest-looking beam of all, but it isn’t really available any more and it makes the fewest lumens by far.

LH351D can make a lot of lumens and also comes in high-CRI varieties, but it’s extremely floody and I haven’t found any which don’t look green.

XP-G2 is a pretty decent compromise choice, with decent all-around performance and relatively low cost, but it does not excel at anything in particular.

The emitters I’ve had the best results from are XP-L HI and Nichia 219B. It depends mostly on whether I want throw and performance, or if I want the most beautiful beam, but both make pretty nice-looking beams.

Have you had an opportunity to use a sample of the D4S with the XP-L HD emitters?

I haven’t bought my D4S yet, but it’s on the radar and I want to choose the emitter I’m going to like best.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
XP-L HI produces a cleaner beam with more throw and better tint consistency. It’s powerful and it looks good.

XP-L HD produces somewhat more lumens, but it’s diluted across a wider beam so it doesn’t look brighter. It looks dimmer instead, and the tint is less consistent across the beam.

LH351D can make a lot of lumens and also comes in high-CRI varieties, but it’s extremely floody and I haven’t found any which don’t look green.

XP-G2 is a pretty decent compromise choice, with decent all-around performance and relatively low cost, but it does not excel at anything in particular.


If compare XP-L vs LH351D, which one generating a lot of more heat?

Sorry for my poor english.

chadvone
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Ordered some disc magnets to epoxy onto the tail.

sbslider
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chadvone wrote:
Ordered some disc magnets to epoxy onto the tail.

Can you let me know how it goes, I may follow your lead. The only reason I haven’t done so already was that I am wondering how it will go in the same pocket with credit cards.

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

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@Di_Joker, the LH351D is more efficient than the XP-L HD, so it will be producing more light for the same heat.

However, since its VF is a bit lower in the 70CRI version, it will draw a bit more current, so it will get slightly hotter.

It will still be not as hot as the Nichia 219C though.

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@BlueSwordM, Thank you! I completely forgot about SST20 4000K NW CRI95, as they are in the heat in comparison with XP-L HD?

Sorry for my poor english.

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sbslider wrote:
chadvone wrote:
Ordered some disc magnets to epoxy onto the tail.
Can you let me know how it goes, I may follow your lead. The only reason I haven’t done so already was that I am wondering how it will go in the same pocket with credit cards.

I do wish there were a longer tailcap available. I just want it to be longer, but would happily accept additional functionality with a strong magnet and lanyard loop, maybe even a tripod mount.

The low mode should be lower.

Reviews: Efan IMR18350 700mAh 10.5A, <a href="http://

aginthelaw
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hank wrote:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5313540/

So sad. Those poor mice…

never fear shadows…it means a light shines nearby

chadvone
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Now I wait. I am also concerned about CC and magnets, my PrimePro A1 has been in my front pocket with my wallet for a few weeks, all has been well.

This magnet is much stronger, I wish I would of went with a thinner 1/16”. I got the 7/8 x #8 × 1/8, N42 NI, C-sunk.

Don’t try and spread the glue around with a metal knife like I did. Yes I did.

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Thanks for posting this. I looked a bit for a countersunk 1/16” magnet, not found yet. Why countersunk, or even a hole in the magnet at all? Were you able to find a single magnet, or did you end up buying a handful?

Looks like you used super glue for the attachment, guessing it is still holding up fine?

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

chadvone
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First time trying this glue. I wouldn’t call it a super glue. Sets in 30 minutes cures in 24 hours. Don’t stick your fingers together like super glue does.

A 1/16th inch disk would probably been enough. Was thinking the hole could be filled with epoxy or black JB weld. I still might. I have had better luck completely covering neo magnets in the past. They tend to chip off on the edges. They are brittle.

K&J Magnets is where I found these. I will probably order some more. I remember a coated version.

I don’t feel I need to glue the clip. It has not moved at all in the few days I have carried it.

This is still a work in progress. I also would like a way to attach a small 3” loop lanyard. It might work on the clip itself. Will update.

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I love magnetic tailcaps. Ideally, I fit a small magnet within the tailspring, but some lights won’t allow that.

For securing magnets to the outside of tailcaps, I’ve had good luck with Loctite 5-minute Clear Epoxy. I scratch up the nickel coating of the magnet and the anodizing of the tailcap before installing.

I suggest N52 grade magnets, which are stronger than N42 grade.

My Zebralight SC5w weighs 90 grams (3.2 oz) with an AA Eneloop installed.

Amazingly, a 1/32” thick x 3/4” diameter N52 magnet holds the SC5w to even a painted vertical steel surface. My H51w has one too.

The D4 with a cell weighs about 120 grams, so I’d go with at least a 1/16” thick N52 just to be safe.

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