TK's Emisar D4 review

3324 posts / 0 new
Last post
ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 21 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 6411
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

The v1 lights had a 45-second delay between step-downs, IIRC. V2 is only 4 seconds. If it’s v2 (has the reference blink in the ramp), it probably should have stepped down within 30 seconds unless it was using a weak cell.

ven
ven's picture
Offline
Last seen: 14 hours 5 min ago
Joined: 09/09/2016 - 11:39
Posts: 414
Location: Manchester

What battery was used saypat and was it fully charged?

The step downs are obvious due to the high output and to where it has to get down to ,for controlling the heat. I get to around 12-15s before my 219c starts backing off, as even then the heat is still increasing fast. Very very clever ! Love it Smile

saypat
saypat's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 41 min ago
Joined: 07/13/2011 - 20:32
Posts: 2568
Location: Calif

thanks TK and ven. It was an Aspire cell, not quite fully charged. I may have been counting fast. What thermal config is best to optimally protect the light? Thanks.

Agro
Online
Last seen: 2 min 26 sec ago
Joined: 05/14/2017 - 11:16
Posts: 911
Location: Ślōnsk

Last night I took it camping.
1. I find the moonlight mode too bright. I guess making it configurable would be welcome by some
2. I missed a lanyard hole. But will probably manufacture some strap for it instead.
3. Has anyone found a diffuser that would work with it?

Agro
Online
Last seen: 2 min 26 sec ago
Joined: 05/14/2017 - 11:16
Posts: 911
Location: Ślōnsk

DB Custom wrote:
I needed space for the longer cell, so I removed the spring from the driver and added 3mm with the brass spacer at the tail cap. The brass ring at the head is merely cosmetic to blend the gold and green. Wink

It’s still as short as it can possibly be… the spring in the tail cap is fully compressed when assembled.


3mm…so close and yet so far…
According to CRX :
Tail PCB + spring are 2.2 mm. A custom insert shaped like a bucket with a nub inside could reduce it to like 0.6 mm.
Endcap is 2.54 mm thick. Removing some material should make it possible to fit 20700 without a spacer. But that’s quite a lot of work for such mod…
Old Mate
Offline
Last seen: 49 min 1 sec ago
Joined: 05/29/2013 - 06:10
Posts: 185
Location: Sydney Australia

I picked up a couple of D4,s with XPL-HI V3 1A and i am very happy with the lights.

I got mine from the international outdoor store and they were delivered in 12 days – free delivery, which is good.

I like every thing about the lights from its excellent quality fit and finish, anodizing and unique and well thought out UI.

The tint is identical with both, a nice white tint with a slight touch of magenta. They are incredibly bright little lights.

Well done to every one involved in the D4,s creation – highly recommended.

Old Mate

rizky_p
rizky_p's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 19 hours ago
Joined: 03/01/2011 - 05:06
Posts: 765
Location: Indonesia

i am tempted to get a second one especially the XP-L version. I prefer the rosy tint of the XP-L instead of the Nichia white. in fact i like the nichia 218 in my S41 than the 219 inside the D4.

Old Mate wrote:
I picked up a couple of D4,s with XPL-HI V3 1A and i am very happy with the lights. I got mine from the international outdoor store and they were delivered in 12 days – free delivery, which is good. I like every thing about the lights from its excellent quality fit and finish, anodizing and unique and well thought out UI. The tint is identical with both, a nice white tint with a slight touch of magenta. They are incredibly bright little lights.
dabotsonline
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 6 days ago
Joined: 08/18/2015 - 14:28
Posts: 4

As resourceful as DB Custom has been on p35 and p40, is there any update on an official 21700 tube for the Emisar D4? 4000 lumens on a Panasonic / Sanyo NCR20700B and 4500 lumens on a Panasonic / Sanyo NCR20700A is intriguing! Will be interesting to see the latter tested against the Samsung SDI INR21700-30T and LG Chem H30. Hopefully the rubber rings on the Nitecore HC30 headstart, as modelled by BeardedRaleigh, will be able to stretch to accommodate the extra 5mm diameter.

AEDe
Online
Last seen: 2 min 29 sec ago
Joined: 12/01/2016 - 12:07
Posts: 125
Location: Moscow

ToyKeeper wrote:
My unexpected Meteor measurement got me curious, so I ran some tests…

On turbo with full cells, it measured 4848 lm in my light box. Significantly less than the 7450 lm it’s rated at for XP-G2 3D emitters.


Sorry for late reply.
Something wrong with your meteor. You can turn on battery warning, it blinking when voltage drop more than 0.5V. You also can disassemble tail and clean all contact. I have this problem approximately every 6 month.

Thanks for the graphics, they are show why I like cc driver and don’t like direct drive)

Tixx
Offline
Last seen: 11 hours 36 sec ago
Joined: 08/27/2015 - 22:34
Posts: 91
Location: United States

rizky_p wrote:
i am tempted to get a second one especially the XP-L version. I prefer the rosy tint of the XP-L instead of the Nichia white. in fact i like the nichia 218 in my S41 than the 219 inside the D4.
Old Mate wrote:
I picked up a couple of D4,s with XPL-HI V3 1A and i am very happy with the lights. I got mine from the international outdoor store and they were delivered in 12 days – free delivery, which is good. I like every thing about the lights from its excellent quality fit and finish, anodizing and unique and well thought out UI. The tint is identical with both, a nice white tint with a slight touch of magenta. They are incredibly bright little lights.

Yes, I find the XP-G2 4000k and the XP-L 5000k much preferable in tint over the 219c.

I bought and own all 3 versions so I could compare.

Joey Adams
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 9 min ago
Joined: 02/12/2017 - 21:29
Posts: 235
Location: Jamestown, KY

I love the 3D tint on my xpg2 version

patmurris
patmurris's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 25 min ago
Joined: 12/22/2014 - 15:54
Posts: 823
Location: Nice, France

Finally received both the Nichia and XPL HI D4s today! Party

I Quickly took the picture that needed to be shot: Those three lights put out about the same amount of light – good old SRK triple Fandyfire UV-S5, DQG Tiny 26650 3rd and Emisar D4 18350.

My very first impressions: tiny, beautiful mate finish, no brainer and smooth UI, bright bright bright and gets burning hot faster then my soldering iron…

saypat
saypat's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 41 min ago
Joined: 07/13/2011 - 20:32
Posts: 2568
Location: Calif

… keeping the thread rolling Smile

Sledgestone
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 2 days ago
Joined: 11/07/2015 - 06:55
Posts: 579
Location: Sweden

Just got my second one. This time a green xp-g2 3D. Love the green color but absolutely hate the tint. No rosiness, only purple and blue.. This can’t be normal with this LEDs, right?

Edit: I’m talking about the corona. The hotspot is yellow.

fuzun
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 20 hours ago
Joined: 02/11/2017 - 13:37
Posts: 173

I am holding myself to buy one because even though it offers good choices of tints (thank you for pointing them out) I need high cri (R9080). I hope we will see NVSL219BT-V1 option available to purchase. Do the producer of this light know that there is a demand for high cri version?

Geuzzz
Geuzzz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 21 min ago
Joined: 10/25/2015 - 10:27
Posts: 283
Location: Netherlands

Sledgestone wrote:
Just got my second one. This time a green xp-g2 3D. Love the green color but absolutely hate the tint. No rosiness, only purple and blue.. This can’t be normal with this LEDs, right?

Edit: I’m talking about the corona. The hotspot is yellow.

Just checked mine for you. I see differences between the hotspot and corona (yellow, and purple) when standing 50cm from a white wall. If I move to 150cm all is nice and neutral. Compared it to my 2014 Eagletac D25 nichia 219b 5000k and the tint is almost identical.

Maybe you can post a picture for us.

Tjohn
Tjohn's picture
Offline
Last seen: 30 min 17 sec ago
Joined: 12/22/2015 - 07:22
Posts: 202
Location: Returning to Naples FL as soon as possible...

fuzun wrote:
I am holding myself to buy one because even though it offers good choices of tints (thank you for pointing them out) I need high cri (R9080). I hope we will see NVSL219BT-V1 option available to purchase. Do the producer of this light know that there is a demand for high cri version?

Remembering, as TK and Clemence have both pointed out, HiCri fidelity occurs at a predetermined current level.
Overdriven, the tint goes far away from the ANSI BBL….
-
Curious enough to try 4 x Nichia 219BT 4000K. sw40, 93 Cri 9050 leds in my D4,
……..when overdriven, the output produces way more magenta than a normal driven sw45,
enough to make a normally driven (pinkish) triple with leds from the same reel appear greenish when compared side by side.

If you want a side switch noPWM triple for your Nichias, the MecArmy PT 10, 14, 16, and 18 series keeps the tint faithful.

What do you mean it’s your Sacred Burial Ground,
….that’s our Sacred Television Antenna !

fuzun
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 20 hours ago
Joined: 02/11/2017 - 13:37
Posts: 173

Tjohn wrote:
fuzun wrote:
I am holding myself to buy one because even though it offers good choices of tints (thank you for pointing them out) I need high cri (R9080). I hope we will see NVSL219BT-V1 option available to purchase. Do the producer of this light know that there is a demand for high cri version?

Remembering, as TK and Clemence have both pointed out, HiCri fidelity occurs at a predetermined current level.
Overdriven, the tint goes far away from the ANSI BBL….
-
Curious enough to try 4 x Nichia 219BT 4000K. sw40, 93 Cri 9050 leds in my D4,
……..when overdriven, the output produces way more magenta than a normal driven sw45,
enough to make a normally driven (pinkish) triple with leds from the same reel appear greenish when compared side by side.

If you want a side switch noPWM triple for your Nichias, the MecArmy PT 10, 14, 16, and 18 series keeps the tint faithful.


Maybe that’s why they do not provide hi-cri version. Thank you for the information, I now remember the case about overdriven hicri leds. It looks like I will wait for new hi cri led Big Smile
ven
ven's picture
Offline
Last seen: 14 hours 5 min ago
Joined: 09/09/2016 - 11:39
Posts: 414
Location: Manchester

fuzun wrote:
Tjohn wrote:
fuzun wrote:
I am holding myself to buy one because even though it offers good choices of tints (thank you for pointing them out) I need high cri (R9080). I hope we will see NVSL219BT-V1 option available to purchase. Do the producer of this light know that there is a demand for high cri version?

Remembering, as TK and Clemence have both pointed out, HiCri fidelity occurs at a predetermined current level.
Overdriven, the tint goes far away from the ANSI BBL….
-
Curious enough to try 4 x Nichia 219BT 4000K. sw40, 93 Cri 9050 leds in my D4,
……..when overdriven, the output produces way more magenta than a normal driven sw45,
enough to make a normally driven (pinkish) triple with leds from the same reel appear greenish when compared side by side.

If you want a side switch noPWM triple for your Nichias, the MecArmy PT 10, 14, 16, and 18 series keeps the tint faithful.


Maybe that’s why they do not provide hi-cri version. Thank you for the information, I now remember the case about overdriven hicri leds. It looks like I will wait for new hi cri led Big Smile

The 219c 4000k may fair well or better than the 219b when harder driven………………Is towards yellow on my samples(dont mind it myself though)

hank
hank's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 52 min ago
Joined: 09/04/2011 - 21:52
Posts: 7310
Location: California
Quote:
I’m talking about the corona. The hotspot is yellow.

That sounds normal to me, typical of a lot of the emitters that try a mix of phosphors over the blue base layer for higher color rendering.
Remember the base layer is blue, it’s the blue photons that excite the phosphors which re-emit the energy as various wavelength of red to yellower light.
The published spectra show several peaks from the phosphors:

https://www.google.com/search?q=high+CRI+led+spectrum
and look at the images

Getting the right mix of the right phosphorescent chemicals is the art of designing the higher CRI LEDs.
Getting phosphors that don’t degrade with time or flake off is also part of their art.

The focus is using the light from the face of the phosphor, to make the hotspot.

The light coming sideways off the base layer — there’s always some — will show up in the less focused corona and will be more bluish.,

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 21 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 6411
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
Agro wrote:
Has anyone found a diffuser that would work with it?

You can use a different Carclo quad optic with diffusion built in. Or put DC-Fix on the lens. Both work.

rizky_p wrote:
I prefer the rosy tint of the XP-L instead of the Nichia white. in fact i like the nichia 218 in my S41 than the 219 inside the D4.

You mean, you like the 219b more than the 219c? That’s fair — the 219b had more of a rosy tint. However, it also has much lower maximum output… particularly when limited to the current which produces the best tint. A quad 219b configured to optimize tint would probably make about 1600 lm at 6-8 A. Maxed out completely, it might make up to 2400 lm at 14 A. A quad 219c could theoretically make up to about 4800 lm at 24 A.

One of my nicest-looking lights is a triple 219b at just one amp per emitter. It makes only 800 lm, but it’s 800 very nice lumens.

It’d be nice to see a D4 with 219c at 4500k and 90+ CRI. That seems like more of a true neutral, halfway between warm white and cool white.

Sledgestone wrote:
Just got my second one. This time a green xp-g2 3D. Love the green color but absolutely hate the tint. No rosiness, only purple and blue.. This can’t be normal with this LEDs, right?

Edit: I’m talking about the corona. The hotspot is yellow.

Cree emitters tend to put out different tints at different angles. So does Nichia, to a much lesser extent. To get a beam with a consistent tint, you’ll need a diffused optic to blend different parts of the beam together.

vwpieces
vwpieces's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 6 min ago
Joined: 07/17/2016 - 19:49
Posts: 1509
Location: PA, USA

Sledgestone wrote:
Just got my second one. This time a green xp-g2 3D. Love the green color but absolutely hate the tint. No rosiness, only purple and blue.. This can’t be normal with this LEDs, right?

Edit: I’m talking about the corona. The hotspot is yellow.

Agree, bought S4 5D and immediately put a frosted optic on it.
You may want to stay away from the XP-G3 under an Optic.
I forget the tint but ordered an XP-G3 triple board from Mtn… Tested it under an optic before install. My reaction was, that’s quite the rainbow! Put every Carclo I had over it including Frosted. That board went back into the bag, in the parts bin.
XP-L HI does not give that same effect.
I will eventually swap out the G2’s in that light. Just undecided… to what.
I do have a new Mtn quad board with 319AT but not unless I get an 18350 tube and some Aspire batts to calm it down a bit.

Sledgestone
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 2 days ago
Joined: 11/07/2015 - 06:55
Posts: 579
Location: Sweden

Thanks for the explanation guys!

Vwpieces, did the frosted optic completely remove the purple corona?

vwpieces
vwpieces's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 6 min ago
Joined: 07/17/2016 - 19:49
Posts: 1509
Location: PA, USA

I can’t say that it did 100% but it helped a lot. Definitely less blue/purple but still kinda pinkish like a 219B with a yellow spot.
Carclo are also noted for the artifacts, mostly noticed as you spin the light. Frosted also removes most of that too.
The frosted quad I have from Mtn. is a medium spot, 10623 Carclo. So it will be wider pattern than original.

Sledgestone
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 2 days ago
Joined: 11/07/2015 - 06:55
Posts: 579
Location: Sweden

Ok, that’s good to hear. Only thing that matters is that the blue/purple disappears. Do you know if it’s available for purchase in Asia/Europe? Shipping is too much from the states for me.

Geuzzz
Geuzzz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 21 min ago
Joined: 10/25/2015 - 10:27
Posts: 283
Location: Netherlands
Sledgestone wrote:
Ok, that’s good to hear. Only thing that matters is that the blue/purple disappears. Do you know if it’s available for purchase in Asia/Europe? Shipping is too much from the states for me.

Even in Sweden Smile

https://m.conrad.se/LED-optik-Carclo-Frostad-Matt-25%2e9-%b0-Antal-LED:e...

Sledgestone
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 2 days ago
Joined: 11/07/2015 - 06:55
Posts: 579
Location: Sweden

Fantastic! Thanks a lot, Geuzzz!

patmurris
patmurris's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 25 min ago
Joined: 12/22/2014 - 15:54
Posts: 823
Location: Nice, France

A few comments about the ramping UI:

I like how smooth and fast it reacts and that the current level stays in memory for the next turn on. However if i set the light to some mid level i like and next use the shortcut to moon for instance (long press from off) and turn the light off, the next time it will also start on moon with a single click – the memorized mid level has been ‘erased’ by moon, even though i didn’t use ramping. Same thing if i fired a quick burst of max output (double click from off) and turned off without ramping. Next time it turns on at max level which may be unexpected and quite annoying.

In both case, the memorized level was forgotten and one of the shortcut has become redundant. I would have expected the memory to persist until some ramping occur.

Another suggestion i would make would be to have an option to limit ramping to a level that the light can at least sustain for a few minutes without stepping down or becoming ridiculously (and possibly dangerously) hot. It’s actually too easy to go overboard with this light. On most lights with a turbo mode of some sort, you have to do something special to trigger it – at least click through the other modes for instance.

zak.wilson
Offline
Last seen: 5 days 1 hour ago
Joined: 09/29/2014 - 14:27
Posts: 390
fuzun wrote:
I am holding myself to buy one because even though it offers good choices of tints (thank you for pointing them out) I need high cri (R9080). I hope we will see NVSL219BT-V1 option available to purchase. Do the producer of this light know that there is a demand for high cri version?

So… there happens to be a fairly popular 219B FET quad: the Astrolux S41. I have one, and I notice a distinct shift to a much cooler tint after a second or two on max with a Sony VTC6. I don’t see the shift with an LG HG2 or Samsung 30Q. Output was 2272 lumens at power on with the VTC6 and more like 2000 with other batteries.

The D4 has significantly lower resistance than the S41. That means more current, and the 219B won’t respond in a good way to that. Tint will get cooler, CRI will get worse and the emitters may be damaged. A 219B D4 without adding a resistor to the circuit doesn’t seem like a good idea to me. 219Cs do come in 90 CRI though, and they still have nice tint and CRI when driven crazy hard. Some do prefer the tint of the 219B (I’m one of them), but the 219C is getting tint deviation bins, so it’ll be possible to order more rosy versions.

Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android

JIGHEADWORM
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 21 min ago
Joined: 07/02/2017 - 18:04
Posts: 181
Location: Tennessee

anybody using one of the mtn quad boards with xpl -hi how is the output.any dropoff from hte original d4 mcpcb?

Pages