TK's Emisar D4 review

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Firelight2
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I think XPL HI has generally always produced more lumens than 219C. That’s been the case since both emitters came out in numerous different reviews. XPL HI simply has higher output. More throw too.

219C may pull more amps so the light heats up faster and battery runs down faster, while XPL HI tends to produce more lumens.

EasyB
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That was my impression too. But based on Texas_Ace’s tests of the D320 219C and the XPL HI V2 1A, they produce right about the same output at a given current. So with the lower Vf of the nichia it seems like it should output more. Maybe this light has lower bin 219C.

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EasyB wrote:
That was my impression too. But based on Texas_Ace’s tests of the D320 219C and the XPL HI V2 1A, they produce right about the same output at a given current. So with the lower Vf of the nichia it seems like it should output more. Maybe this light has lower bin 219C.
I suspect Toykeeper also measured max output on a full cell.

It could be that XPL HI starts off with higher output on a completely full cell but due to the higher vF as the cell depletes the Nichia will overtake it in output.

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Now I’m tempted to mod my D4. I have Richard’s new quad board with XP-L HI V3 3C and 219c D320. The problem is that I love the light as is…

T18
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Accidental activation almost caused roasted nuts? ….Yikes!

Well did edit that part but I guess my point was made except it would have been roasted peanuts, that situation sure was certainly NUTS..
Just the combination I think of those being new jeans and sort of stiff, along with seat belt snugged caused the pocket material to fold up and just press that switch all in under a minute blazing hot, couldn’t even hold the light.

I wonder what the people behind my truck were thinking when they see me bailing out of my now rolling truck, I didn’t even have time to put the E brake then at the same time doing a little jig around in the street holding my pocket, probably looked differently to them, and pulling out this massively bright light, man that hurt, must have looked insane I guess.. Still hurting..

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TK, not technically correct on one point… the XP-L2 will actually fit under the Carclo optic. It’s a tight fit and you can do damage if not careful but they do indeed fit. (I should say the ones I got early on from Cutter fit, haven’t done it again in a while due to, uh, circumstances beyond my control)

Dale

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I have the user-configured thermal calibration working. The UI for this is a little more detailed though…

  • Fast-click 10+ times, then click and hold.
  • Light blinks out the current temperature limit in C.
  • Let go of the button if you want to exit now with no changes. Otherwise keep holding.
  • Light “buzzes” for two seconds. Let go during this time to set limit to the maximum (~70 C). Otherwise keep holding.
  • Light goes up to turbo.
  • Hold until you feel it’s too hot, then let go.

The light then blinks out the new temperature limit in C, and shuts off.

This way, you can check the current number, set it to maximum, or set a new calibration by feel. Also, setting the ceiling to a high temperature … will hurt. But that’s probably a good thing.

Does this seem like a good way to do it?

T18
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Sure does to me, great work TK, is this in the next release..?

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I like that it flashes out what it is currently set at so you can check where you left it.

XP-L is pretty beast… but I think I’ll go Nichia on this thing. Would be my first floody Nichia and highest amped light. My mouth is watering at the thought.

ToyKeeper
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I’m getting pretty close to done.

Currently, there is no way to disable mode memory. It’s easy to bypass during regular use, by turning the light on with a long-press or a double-click… but it could be a potential issue when kept in a pocket or a bag if you left it in a high mode and it gets tapped by accident.

Making it optional would need some sort of config mode. Adding an actual config mode would require deeper changes and make the interface more complicated.

So, I’m trying to figure out if it’s okay to always have memory or if it needs a config mode.

Anyway, here’s the UI so far:

Changes from the original version include:

  • added full thermal regulation with user-calibrated ceiling
  • added mode memory on click-from-off (default 100% 7135)
  • made beacon use current ramp level
  • made double-click toggle turbo (not just one-way any more)
  • made LVP drop down in smaller steps
  • calibrated moon to ~0.3 lm on Emisar D4-219c hardware
  • blink when passing the 100% 7135 level, for reference
  • fixed display of “zero” digits
  • fixed/cleaned misc internal things
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I LOVE that UI, thank you for your wonderful work TK !
I wish the thermal config was that easy in my TA driver with Narsil (I have it in a Nitecore HC30 and struggle to use the thermal config Sad )

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ToyKeeper wrote:
I’m getting pretty close to done.

Currently, there is no way to disable mode memory. It’s easy to bypass during regular use, by turning the light on with a long-press or a double-click… but it could be a potential issue when kept in a pocket or a bag if you left it in a high mode and it gets tapped by accident.

Making it optional would need some sort of config mode. Adding an actual config mode would require deeper changes and make the interface more complicated.

So, I’m trying to figure out if it’s okay to always have memory or if it needs a config mode.

Changes from the original version include:

  • added full thermal regulation with user-calibrated ceiling
  • added mode memory on click-from-off (default 100% 7135)
  • made beacon use current ramp level
  • made double-click toggle turbo (not just one-way any more)
  • made LVP drop down in smaller steps
  • calibrated moon to ~0.3 lm on Emisar D4-219c hardware
  • blink when passing the 100% 7135 level, for reference
  • fixed display of “zero” digits
  • fixed/cleaned misc internal things

If there is no way to configure memory mode, how about a long press to memory mode, and single click is on in low mode?

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While I can flash the ATTiny, I’d much rather see this UI available directly from Richard…. the more I see here the more I want to see it in my shopping cart at mtnelectronics.com. Big Smile

Dale

EasyB
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The UI looks great. Well the FW fit on a attiny25?

will34
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Love the new UI!

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Probably an ATTiny85

Dale

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DB Custom wrote:
While I can flash the ATTiny, I’d much rather see this UI available directly from Richard…. the more I see here the more I want to see it in my shopping cart at mtnelectronics.com. Big Smile
Yes. Hopefully Richard will start selling preassembled drivers in different diameters with this UI. That way we can install it in all our e-switch lights. Thumbs Up
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Firelight2 wrote:
DB Custom wrote:
While I can flash the ATTiny, I’d much rather see this UI available directly from Richard…. the more I see here the more I want to see it in my shopping cart at mtnelectronics.com. Big Smile
Yes. Hopefully Richard will start selling preassembled drivers in different diameters with this UI. That way we can install it in all our e-switch lights. Thumbs Up

YES! +1 to this. I have a H02 with a dead driver that I would love to have this set up in.

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well that and a green D4 with almost 4k lumens of nichia goodness. will be watching this for updates on the v2 release

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Quote:
I have the user-configured thermal calibration working. The UI for this is a little more detailed though… Fast-click 10+ times, then click and hold. Light blinks out the current temperature limit in C. Let go of the button if you want to exit now with no changes. Otherwise keep holding. Light “buzzes” for two seconds. Let go during this time to set limit to the maximum (~70 C). Otherwise keep holding. Light goes up to turbo. Hold until you feel it’s too hot, then let go.

That is an awesome feature!

Nice work TK

T18
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Love the new changes thanks for all your work TK, will ramping output on beacon be also something that transfers to the output of the bat and temp checks light output as well..?
Or are they not all connected, I have no clue about coding stuff but I can tell you that the work you do can be very important to someone someday on many levels.
I’ve been with WA State Search and Rescue since 1975 and was showing some of your UI;s in some lights to a few guys and one guy asked me while I was showing him how I could use one of your UI’s to check the battery levels and his response was, Oh really, I thought that was a international distress signal, well I near hit the floor, he was right, well needless to say he was on to something because it does look very close to international distress and if I saw that on a rescue blinking out your bat volts or temp even I’d have thought the same thing that he did, but seeing it so often knowing it’s bat check that never occurred to me before so if lost in WA State just use TK’s bat check or temp reading for signaling for help and bag the beacon, amazing,
Your work TK might save someones life, no joke. So always keep one cell at 3.3v when hiking in mountains just in case .. ha ha ha,

Fixed that smooth tube to comfortable hand fit now, feels nice and rubbery and not slippery at all and fells better in diameter. Helps keep heat down from the head as well.

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hIKARInoob wrote:
If there is no way to configure memory mode, how about a long press to memory mode, and single click is on in low mode?

There is currently no way to turn memory off. Setting the memorized level is easy though; it automatically remembers whatever you ramp to.

DB Custom wrote:
While I can flash the ATTiny, I’d much rather see this UI available directly from Richard…. the more I see here the more I want to see it in my shopping cart at mtnelectronics.com. Big Smile

I think that’s the plan. Smile

EasyB wrote:
Well the FW fit on a attiny25?

No, it’ll fit on attiny45 though.

It won’t be feasible on tiny25 until I write a whole new code base from scratch… and maybe not even then.

T18 wrote:
will ramping output on beacon be also something that transfers to the output of the bat and temp checks light output as well..?

No, the “check” levels are hardcoded at a medium-low output level. Bright enough to read the value, dim enough to not use much power.

The momentary “tactical” mode is hardcoded to use only maximum output. For the sort of person who wants a tactical burst mode, I don’t think they’d be happy about having it “burst” at only 30 lm if they had been using the light to look in the glove box a few minutes beforehand. Me, I’d rather have an adjustable momentary mode… but I don’t think I’m the target audience for this feature.

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Wow this thread goes fast!
Am I telling the truth here:
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1155568#comment-1155568
?

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T18 wrote:
Love the new changes thanks for all your work TK, will ramping output on beacon be also something that transfers to the output of the bat and temp checks light output as well..?
Or are they not all connected, I have no clue about coding stuff but I can tell you that the work you do can be very important to someone someday on many levels.
I’ve been with WA State Search and Rescue since 1975 and was showing some of your UI;s in some lights to a few guys and one guy asked me while I was showing him how I could use one of your UI’s to check the battery levels and his response was, Oh really, I thought that was a international distress signal, well I near hit the floor, he was right, well needless to say he was on to something because it does look very close to international distress and if I saw that on a rescue blinking out your bat volts or temp even I’d have thought the same thing that he did, but seeing it so often knowing it’s bat check that never occurred to me before so if lost in WA State just use TK’s bat check or temp reading for signaling for help and bag the beacon, amazing,
Your work TK might save someones life, no joke. So always keep one cell at 3.3v when hiking in mountains just in case .. ha ha ha,

Fixed that smooth tube to comfortable hand fit now, feels nice and rubbery and not slippery at all and fells better in diameter. Helps keep heat down from the head as well.

!{width:40%}[img]http://i.imgur.com/1zsDjxH.jpg[/img]!

What did you use for the grip sleeve on your D4?

I wish they’d do a run of knurled 18650 body tubes for this light.

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FWIW, it’s probably not a good idea to add insulation to a hotrod light. It might make the light easier to hold when it’s hot, but … if it’s too hot to hold, it’s probably too hot period. Adding insulation just makes it get hot faster and makes it more likely to damage itself. It needs as much heat-shedding capacity as possible, and a sleeve eliminates an awful lot of surface area.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
FWIW, it’s probably not a good idea to add insulation to a hotrod light. It might make the light easier to hold when it’s hot, but … if it’s too hot to hold, it’s probably too hot period. Adding insulation just makes it get hot faster and makes it more likely to damage itself. It needs as much heat-shedding capacity as possible, and a sleeve eliminates an awful lot of surface area.
On the upside, with your adjustable firmware he can just set the temp sensor to a good setting with the sleeve equipped.

I’m not a huge fan of smooth tubes with no knurling. Lights like that feel slippery. They don’t feel secure in the hand. The ideal solution would be for someone to make an optional 18650 battery tube for the Emisar with knurling.

Alternatively, I can try to make a grip sleeve for the light. I did that with my SC63w with good results by adapting a sleeve from a budget light. Solved the grip issue. It does get hotter faster, but because it has a temp sensor it’s not a problem.

Or I can use my hand knurler to try to apply my own knurling. This works, but looks like total crap. I’d prefer to avoid this if I have an option.

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Wondering if the diameter of the battery tube is anywhere near that of a bicycle handlebar? Or motorcycle throttle grip? There are a lot of those that are skeletonized such that they’d breath the heat out but prevent a direct contact between skin and the light. Just thinking out loud…

Dale

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Firelight2 wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
FWIW, it’s probably not a good idea to add insulation to a hotrod light. It might make the light easier to hold when it’s hot, but … if it’s too hot to hold, it’s probably too hot period. Adding insulation just makes it get hot faster and makes it more likely to damage itself. It needs as much heat-shedding capacity as possible, and a sleeve eliminates an awful lot of surface area.
On the upside, with your adjustable firmware he can just set the temp sensor to a good setting with the sleeve equipped.

I’m not a huge fan of smooth tubes with no knurling. Lights like that feel slippery. They don’t feel secure in the hand. The ideal solution would be for someone to make an optional 18650 battery tube for the Emisar with knurling.

Alternatively, I can try to make a grip sleeve for the light. I did that with my SC63w with good results by adapting a sleeve from a budget light. Solved the grip issue. It does get hotter faster, but because it has a temp sensor it’s not a problem.

Or I can use my hand knurler to try to apply my own knurling. This works, but looks like total crap. I’d prefer to avoid this if I have an option.

You could try using 3-4 tight fitting o rings.
The D4’s tube diameter is 24mm.

https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_2017072011...

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The Miller wrote:
Wow this thread goes fast! Am I telling the truth here: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1155568#comment-1155568 ?

I think so?

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