Sofirn SF10 and SF12 review

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Persechini
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Yes, the driver is definitely the weak link on these lights. Simple drivers should, IMO, be always L>M>H with no memory. Anything extra like strobe and SOS should come after high

In my Tree

My collectionEmisar: D4 / D1 / D4 (broken) ― Convoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / HC33 / TIP / TIP CRI / TINI ― Lumintop: Tool AAA / Tool AA / HLAAA / EDC05 ― Sofirn: SF10 / SF12 / SF12 / SF14 / SF14 / SF14 / SP10A / SP10A (gifted) ― Jaxman: E3 ― UTorch: UT01 ― Trustfire: Z2 ― Skyfire: SF-065 (trashed)

panakart
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Today i received SF10. It is a very good AA EDC flashlight but not a 14500. Very good construction. I think tint is about 5000 – 5500k and power is about ~100 lumen on AA .

Jackie
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SF10 looks nice, today with special price only $6.95, just bought one Facepalm

Jackie
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!$6.95!! Sofirn SF10 AA/14500 battery with special price for 5 days !

Jaded
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Ok. I removed the pill of the SF10 to change the emitter, but I forgot about the placement of the O-ring in front. Is the O-ring between the lens and reflector or is it outside, similar to Convoy S2+ ?

MascaratumB
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Jaded wrote:
Ok. I removed the pill of the SF10 to change the emitter, but I forgot about the placement of the O-ring in front. Is the O-ring between the lens and reflector or is it outside, similar to Convoy S2+ ?

The O-ring fits between the lens and the bezel, not the reflector!
Some weeks ago I put it between the lens and the reflector and while screwing it in, I broke the lens!
So, o-ring between the lens and the bezel Wink

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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Jaded
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Noted, but do you mean while screwing the pill in? It’s the SF10 we’re talking about, right? The SF10 has a removable pill and a fixed bezel. Didn’t know that the glass lens is more susceptible to breaking if the O-ring is placed between the reflector and the lens.

MascaratumB
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Jaded wrote:
Noted, but do you mean while screwing the pill in? It’s the SF10 we’re talking about, right? The SF10 has a removable pill and a fixed bezel. Didn’t know that the glass lens is more susceptible to breaking if the O-ring is placed between the reflector and the lens.

Yes, the SF10 is the same of the picture posted above on post #35 Wink I called it bezel because I don’t know what to call it! But it as a removable pill + reflector + lens+ o-ring Wink

What I mean is that I was once screwing in the pill and made more pressure than I should. As the o-ring was between the reflector and the lens, and not between the lens and the “bezel”, the strength applied was too much in a part of the lens, so it broke. The O-ring, besides sealing, may have that “shock absorber” funtion. The hard surface of the lens vs the hard surface of the bezel made it crush.
When the reflector is just below the lens, it will apply the same pressure in all parts of the lens and the o-ring above the lens will absorb it and hinder the lens to have friction in the bezel Wink

Conclusion of this: I had to order another lens that arrived yesterday ! In some weeks I’ll have a new driver, a new emitter, and Sofirn SF10 will no longer be what it was Evil

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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Jaded
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Exactly what I have in mind. The SF10 is compact and feels very solid because of its hefty battery tube and good knurling. More importantly, it can take a 17mm driver and 16mm LED base. I just wish mine came with a brass pill instead of cheap aluminum.

Speaking of the lens, mind if ask the diameter and thickness of the new lens that you ordered? I’m thinking of getting an Acrylite 18.00 mm x 1.60 mm. Do you think it will fit snugly?

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Jackie wrote:
!$6.95!! Sofirn SF10 AA/14500 battery with special price for 5 days !

Nice! If I weren’t hip-deep in AA lights, I’d be tempted to get one or more. Big Smile

‘Though if the SF11 goes on sale, I’m totally there…

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

Persechini
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I think all of my flashlights have the o-ring as the first think after the bezel/head piece, otherwise it wouldn’t work as a means to keep water/dust outside the flashlight

In my Tree

My collectionEmisar: D4 / D1 / D4 (broken) ― Convoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / HC33 / TIP / TIP CRI / TINI ― Lumintop: Tool AAA / Tool AA / HLAAA / EDC05 ― Sofirn: SF10 / SF12 / SF12 / SF14 / SF14 / SF14 / SP10A / SP10A (gifted) ― Jaxman: E3 ― UTorch: UT01 ― Trustfire: Z2 ― Skyfire: SF-065 (trashed)

MascaratumB
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Just a tease on how mine is looking right now Cool

Persechini wrote:
I think all of my flashlights have the o-ring as the first think after the bezel/head piece, otherwise it wouldn’t work as a means to keep water/dust outside the flashlight

The Emisar D4, as far as I remember, has Bezel > Lens > O-Ring > TIR !

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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MascaratumB
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Jaded wrote:
Exactly what I have in mind. The SF10 is compact and feels very solid because of its hefty battery tube and good knurling. More importantly, it can take a 17mm driver and 16mm LED base. I just wish mine came with a brass pill instead of cheap aluminum.

Speaking of the lens, mind if ask the diameter and thickness of the new lens that you ordered? I’m thinking of getting an Acrylite 18.00 mm x 1.60 mm. Do you think it will fit snugly?

I bought clear glass lens, super cheap but effective, on a AliExpress store. It has 17.6 × 1.4 mm! I guess that 18×1.6 will fit properly! The stock lens is 18×1.5 Wink

Mine has a brass pill, but it is thin! I’m thinking about putting a “good” driver, but I ain’t sure it it will work! Maybe putting some thing inside the pill helps on heat dissipation Flat Stare Gotta work on that!

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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Jaded
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By removing the hard coating, you effectively made the scratch/dent barely noticeable. Wink

Finding a “good driver” shouldn’t be hard. You just have to decide if you still want AA NiCd battery or go lithium all the way.

MascaratumB
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Jaded wrote:
By removing the hard coating, you effectively made the scratch/dent barely noticeable. Wink

Finding a “good driver” shouldn’t be hard. You just have to decide if you still want AA NiCd battery or go lithium all the way. Mine will still have AA NiCd battery and a LG Innotek UV narrow beam.

Nop, with the contrast of black vs aluminium was even more evident Silly BUT, the screw-in clip is in charge to cover it Big Smile
I have made my mind about the driver, I’ll use a BLF X5 driver Evil
I have 2 Efest IMR14500 on the way to warm this beauty! Other lights are taking AA and Ni-MH, so this will use exclusively 14500s Li-ion Wink

I guess it will be nice after the work! My only issue so far ins thinking about the heat dissipation, but I will only be able to decide on what to do after the driver arrive (to check the space used internally)! I may have to make the pill taller in some way to give it a better path for heat! Let’s see Glasses

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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Jaded
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I said barely noticeable, right? But I get it. It’s the stainless screw-in clip that did the trick. Wink

I think you’re forgetting about the wires. You have to make room for them. You can’t cut them short because you need some space to get the removable pill back in.

MascaratumB
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Jaded wrote:
I said barely noticeable, right? But I get it. It’s the stainless screw-in clip that did the trick. Wink

I think you’re forgetting about the wires. You have to make room for them. You can’t cut them short because you need some space to get the removable pill back in.

Sorry Jaded, I didn’t read carefully and inverted the sense of the word Facepalm

Yup, the clip covers it well and it fits nicely on the light! I use it since I got the light some months ago!

Yes, that’s another thing that keeps me thinking on the options to have some copper (or other thing) above the pill (where the LED board sits), or to add a adapter ring below the pill to make it taller and gain more space for the wires and for something to absorb the heat, maybe something like this: https://led4power.com/product/ld-a4-thermal-enhancement-kit-convoy-s2/ .

Decisions decisions! Facepalm

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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Persechini
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I just got another SF12 and must say it’s much improved. Still not perfect, but enough to maybe warrant an updated review

In my Tree

My collectionEmisar: D4 / D1 / D4 (broken) ― Convoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / HC33 / TIP / TIP CRI / TINI ― Lumintop: Tool AAA / Tool AA / HLAAA / EDC05 ― Sofirn: SF10 / SF12 / SF12 / SF14 / SF14 / SF14 / SP10A / SP10A (gifted) ― Jaxman: E3 ― UTorch: UT01 ― Trustfire: Z2 ― Skyfire: SF-065 (trashed)

SKV89
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Thanks for this review, I was finally able to disassemble the pill to swap the emitter. The SF10 I have goes from L > M > H. However, it always start at High, which I don’t like. There’s no PWM on any mode. The tint is about 5000-5500k. No blue and no pink at all even when using 14500. I like the style better than the SF14 more but the SF14 always start at Low which I like more and the SF14 is much easier to mod.

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SKV89 wrote:
Thanks for this review, I was finally able to disassemble the pill to swap the emitter. The SF10 I have goes from L > M > H. However, it always start at High, which I don’t like. There’s no PWM on any mode. The tint is about 5000-5500k. No blue and no pink at all even when using 14500. I like the style better than the SF14 more but the SF14 always start at Low which I like more and the SF14 is much easier to mod.

Hum, funny thing you mention, I also got one SF10 recently (to mod for a friend) and that thing happened as well! It started on H, then ML > L > M > H! The first batches where like H > M > L > ML and there was a slight tint shift towards yellowish or rosy (I got one of both)!

About modding I found them both easy to mod, but maybe the SF14 is better, due to the pill structure and the ring! However, if I had to chose a host, the SF10 would be my favourite as it seems capable of getting beaten to the bones!! Also, the SF14 host and pill are thinner so it gets hot easily (with BLF X5/X6 driver and XPL2 Big Smile )!

I have both of them modded and use them now and then!! I never bought a new version of the SF14, though, as I ended up with the Convoy T2 and the Jaxman E3 (soon to be moded Evil ) !!

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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SKV89
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MascaratumB wrote:
I have both of them modded and use them now and then!! I never bought a new version of the SF14, though, as I ended up with the Convoy T2 and the Jaxman E3 (soon to be moded Evil ) !!

I read the Convoy T2 has bad PWM. I also modded a Jaxman E3L with 219B 4000k 9080 and it was super easy like the Sofirn SF14. UI is same as SF14 too. However it has PWM and does not work with 14500 whereas SF14 works with AA and 14500.

So did you swap out the driver in the SF10 for a 14500 only driver? Do you know where I can find a good driver for AA and 14500. The best one I know is on the Reylight AA flashlights but I don’t think he sells them separately.

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SKV89 wrote:
I read the Convoy T2 has bad PWM. I also modded a Jaxman E3L with 219B 4000k 9080 and it was super easy like the Sofirn SF14. UI is same as SF14 too. However it has PWM and does not work with 14500 whereas SF14 works with AA and 14500.

Yup, the T2 has PWM, but I can’t notice without camera. The same goes for the Jaxman E3 (not E2L), that has PWM, but is quite good driver for AA cells, no memory, good ML and good levels on M and H!
I used that driver to mod the Sofirn SP10, along with a XML2 T6-4C to use with AA cells only (muggle friend Wink )

The Jaxman and Convoy are better than the Sofirns to be modded ! I’m just planning , not hands-on yet Silly

About the SF14, the only thing I can remember about it (according to a member, I can’t exactly recall who, said – maybe AA Cycler ?) is that the runtimes are not as advertised: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60037 !
Other than that it is very versatile to use with both kinds of cells as you mention!!

SKV89 wrote:
So did you swap out the driver in the SF10 for a 14500 only driver? Do you know where I can find a good driver for AA and 14500. The best one I know is on the Reylight AA flashlights but I don’t think he sells them separately.

Yup, I modded the SF10 with BLF X5/X6 driver + Luxeon V 4000K + TIR optic, and the SF14 with the same driver + XPL2 (bought in Sofirn store) + stock reflector!! They only use 14500s (Efest IMR)!

I once bought 3 drivers from Rey to mod some lights. They were spares from the first batchs of the Pineapple Brass. Maybe he can sell some of the new ones to you, try your shot by sending him a PM Wink I’m not sure if he still has them, but maybe you can try it Wink

Other than that, the only thing that comes to my mind is MTN, but I’m not sure if they have those kind of drivers. It has been the quest of many people here…

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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