WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion]

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Firelight2
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Nice to see that Jetbeam is updating a Classic light1

I like the look of the new version of the RRT-01. And twice the output of the original. Cool

jon_slider
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Fellow RRT-01 fans, I suggest you contact and encourage Clemence to develop some RRT-01 with High CRI LED.

Im asking him for a 3500k Optisolis because of the negative duv and because I want a floody indoor, and close range option with High CRI and High R9. see:
https://www.virence.com/product-page/nichia-nvsle21at-nvswe21at

I already have enough lights with hotspots, I want one with NoHotspot also.

Clemence is presently doing a run of Jetbeam AAA lights with E21A and Optisolis LEDs, and is already interested in the RRT-01 because he appreciates the Rotary interface.

fwiw the Optisolis Require diffusion lenses to blend the beam. The E21a work with conventional reflectors that produce a hotspot (for throw outdoors)

see here for more info on his present Jetbeam offerings
https://www.virence.com/

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The new RRT-01 is now on ebay

the ad seems to be a clone of the RRT-0 info
I do not trust it is accurate, particularly in regard to weight

time will tell
Im in touch with Clemence, and plan to have him mod the LED on one for me.. after Chinese New Year

will share what I learn

todays enlightenment

RRT stands for RapidResponseTactical.. I did not know that.. it made me Laugh, but, whatever…

saypat
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One sold on the Ebay site, would that be you? Was an offer made, curious?

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saypat wrote:
One sold on the Ebay site, would that be you? Was an offer made, curious?

no
I have not ordered one from Ebay
I am waiting for Clemence to receive one and modify it.

Im carrying one of the previous version with LED modded to N219b 4500k 9080

currently waiting for a modified HDS with N219b 3500k 9080, so I can finalize my decision on what LED I want Clemence to install in one of the new RRT-01

my strategy is to own the RRT-01 with 4500k with conventional hotspot for EDC
plus
add one with a warmer LED and floody beam with no hotspot

by waiting for Clemence to do some research and development, I avoid the need to ship a light to him from California. Instead he can receive a light at his Bali location, from Asia, then modify it and ship to me in California.

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sounds great jon. I would like the warm one with a floody beam and no hotspot as well. Great to have someone ‘in the know’ in your pocket Wink

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jon_slider wrote:
The new RRT-01 is now on ebay

the ad seems to be a clone of the RRT-0 info
I do not trust it is accurate, particularly in regard to weight

time will tell
Im in touch with Clemence, and plan to have him mod the LED on one for me.. after Chinese New Year

will share what I learn

todays enlightenment

RRT stands for RapidResponseTactical.. I did not know that.. it made me Laugh, but, whatever…

When you try and sell something on Ebay, Ebay will find the same product already for sale on their site and try and use those specs so you don’t have to type them out. The RRT01 already being in production for years and many of them being sold it looks like Ebay just pasted that info for them. If you scroll down on that listing a bit the full updated specs are there. It is being sold by HKEquipement. Very reputable and very nice to deal with.

"Everywhere I go, there I am"

jon_slider
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Thanks Todd

I agree
Ebay allows sellers to use previous listings as templates, which is what it seems HK did, they cloned an RRT-0 listing, and then added the RRT-01 info

the same info that batteryjunction is using.. which says the new RRT-01 weighs 75 grams empty,

Im hoping this is wrong, cause my RRT-01 weighs 74 grams with a 1200mAh 18350 inside.

time will tell, once confirms the weight of the new RRT-01

thanks for sharing your confidence in the vendor HK
I note the ebay item is supposedly located in Washington USA
even though HK is in Hong Kong

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jon_slider wrote:
Yes Todd
Ebay allows sellers to use previous listings as templates, which is what it seems HK did, they cloned an RRT-0 listing, and then added the RRT-01 info

the same info that batteryjunction is using.. which says the new RRT-01 weighs 75 grams empty,

Im hoping this is wrong, cause my RRT-01 weighs 74 grams with a 1200mAh 18350 inside.

time will tell, once somebody posts the real weight of the new RRT-01

I highly doubt flashlight sellers are busting open packages and weighing lights. I assume they take specs from the manufacturer. Which would explain where both HK and BatteryJunction get their information. I imagine the best place to find out that exact information would be the manufacturer themselves. Even then I doubt they could tell you exactly. Guess you might be able to talk a seller into opening up one to find out. Never thought or had a reason to do that but, it might work.

"Everywhere I go, there I am"

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toddcshoe wrote:
I assume they take specs from the manufacturer. Which would explain where both HK and BatteryJunction get their information.

yes, we think alike
that is my point, whatever accuracy the promotional literature does or does not have, is what the vendors are reposting

I often find errors in listing specs, so I take them with salt
Im hoping someone will confirm the weight from an actual sample.. before I buy

fwiw, Clemence tried to contact Jetbeam, and they are on New Year Holliday, so he cant get the light, from Jetbeam, yet.

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jon_slider wrote:
toddcshoe wrote:
I assume they take specs from the manufacturer. Which would explain where both HK and BatteryJunction get their information.

yes, we think alike
that is my point, whatever accuracy the promotional literature does or does not have, is what the vendors are reposting

Yeah, not very helpful where weight may be critical. It’s probably some teenager in packaging that has a 50 gram weight in one hand and a flashlight in the other and just kind of guesstimates. Smile

"Everywhere I go, there I am"

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lol.. Im just hoping the typo is that its not empty, but rather, with battery inside.. the new listing shows a micro USB battery, I suspect it is included in the sale package

not sure, but the tail seems to have changed.. maybe those are trit slots Smile

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Yup, those are trit slots! Thumbs Up

Thier ain’t no bones in a hot dog. F. York

noboneshotdog
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Thanks jon slider for pointing out Clemence’s website. I have subscribed and am hoping this light comes to fruition w ultra high cri LEDs.

Thier ain’t no bones in a hot dog. F. York

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cool,
btw I just figured out your handle.. clever Wink
I kept reading nobone shot dog and could not understand why the dog got shot.. LOL

Clemence is working on some AAA Jetbeams and tells me he really likes the idea of researching the RRT-01 after that..

I have huge respect for his work and LEDs.. seems like a cant lose proposition.. unless he finds the light unsuitable or not up to his standards

Im very hopeful we are about to witness the birth of a whole new generation of High CRI Rotaries!

and, credit to @MascaratumB for leading me to the RRT-01 I have in my pocket, as well as for making me aware of the new version.. this is all his fault!:-)

I think Karma rewarded him with one like this:

CRX wrote:

now about 18350 cells:
Recently I started using an unprotected 1200 mAh IMR from illumn

Im enjoying the extra capacity, and am checking the voltage on my meter, and keeping an eye out for any dimming to alert me to recharge

btw
I also have an unprotected 750mAh IMR from illumn, and it does not work in the RRT-01, the button top is too wide. do not buy the 3rd cell from the left. The first two on left are protected 16340 I have been using. Far right is my new Unprotected IMR..

I note on page 1, that CRX mantions he modded an 18350 to add protection to an IMR cell.
I see now that protected 1200mAh 18350 are available. I plan to try one.

here is a review of the protected 1200mAh IMR. It is 5mm longer, but Im pretty sure its going to fit in the RRT-01… stay tuned to next weeks installment of..

Whats it got in its pocketses?;-)

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Thanks Jon, and I added a sig line to my posts. I got it from an old timer that I used to work with. Cool

Thier ain’t no bones in a hot dog. F. York

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Neat, a new RRT01. I’ve enjoyed my old one. I got a particularly good 5000K tint, pure white or maybe just a tiny bit below the BBL, with even tint across the beam. It can do anything from 0.000001 lm to about 700 lm, with immediate access to the whole range thanks to the analog ring.

I have a V11R also, but it’s bigger and I don’t like having to flip the light around to switch between the button and the ring. Also, mine is cool white.

The RRT01 is one of the nicer lights I’ve used. The main issue I had with it is that it has no LVP and no battery check function, so I could never tell if my battery was nearly full or nearly empty. I had to use protected cells to avoid cell damage, which meant a ~650 mAh 16340 instead of a ~1150 mAh 18350, and with the variable output and lack of voltage indication, I never had any idea how much runtime to expect.

Aside from that though, very nice light, and I used it as an EDC for quite a while. I wonder if the new version adds LVP or battcheck.

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Hhmm. Guess the question mark is that I don't see it yet on the Jetbeam website. Now Niteye and Jetbeam are one in the same, and don't see it there either.

So, is it truly a legit new offering from JETBeam?

here for sale: https://www.hkequipment.net/product-p/rrt01.htm

http://www.jetbeamlight.com/product_t4.html

http://www.niteyelight.com/

I do like hkequipment but they still sell Spark lights and that company doesn't seem to exist anymore and I see some new inventory listed of Spark's on the hkequipment website, so, where are those coming from? Wish we knew what really goes on, sometimes... Could be a sub-contract manufacturer is simply running off a new batch of an old light and keeping the branding on them. So many possibilities.

 

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Tom E wrote:

Hhmm. Guess the question mark is that I don’t see it yet on the Jetbeam website. Now Niteye and Jetbeam are one in the same, and don’t see it there either.


So, is it truly a legit new offering from JETBeam?


here for sale: https://www.hkequipment.net/product-p/rrt01.htm


http://www.jetbeamlight.com/product_t4.html


http://www.niteyelight.com/


I do like hkequipment but they still sell Spark lights and that company doesn’t seem to exist anymore and I see some new inventory listed of Spark’s on the hkequipment website, so, where are those coming from? Wish we knew what really goes on, sometimes… Could be a sub-contract manufacturer is simply running off a new batch of an old light and keeping the branding on them. So many possibilities.


 

This light is also for sale at battery junction. They are a US based distributor that I have purchased batteries and chargers from in the past with good results.

Thier ain’t no bones in a hot dog. F. York

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jon_slider wrote:

and, credit to @MascaratumB for leading me to the RRT-01 I have in my pocket, as well as for making me aware of the new version.. this is all his fault! Smile

Ahah, I guess we both can live with that burden on my back Wink Beer
Happy owners won’t comply Silly
jon_slider wrote:
I think Karma rewarded him with one like this:
CRX wrote:

It surely did and I’m pretty happy with that as well Big Smile

jon_slider wrote:
I note on page 1, that CRX mantions he modded an 18350 to add protection to an IMR cell. I see now that protected 1200mAh 18350 are available. I plan to try one.

I guess CRX is the best person to explain about that mod, I will only be able to provide the “final” version of the battery in comparison with Keeppower and Aspire!

jon_slider wrote:
here is a review of the protected 1200mAh IMR. It is 5mm longer, but Im pretty sure its going to fit in the RRT-01… stay tuned to next weeks installment of..

Hum…I don’t know if I would be that sure jon, please note that we don’t know what’s in the interior bottom of the flashlight! It may not have the space to fit a protected Keepower, that are really long!! I take as comparison the Wuben 16340 battery (protected) that is much longer than the normal 16340s, including the Olight 16340 (from S1R Baton 1)

jon_slider wrote:
Whats it got in its pocketses? Wink

Too much wish to get one of these…and so few money to do that Tired

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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I’m sure it was a Keeppower 850-900mAh cell or similar but I also may have applied a protection circuit to a flat top 18350, sorry I really can’t remember exactly.

Anyway the important part is that there is no button top, the protection strip is soldered flat on top of the positive contact, also I had to file down the lanyard stud which was protruding into the cell compartment and I might have shaved a little off of the positive driver contact plus sanded down the surrounding plastic RVP ring to make the protected cell just fit.

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I was referred here by jon_slider. I have one of the first generation RRT-01, and it is my favorite for the control ring with no detents, no tail switch and ultra low level. It has the original emitter, which is not my favorite.

I would be in for buying a Hi-CRI modded light from Clemence.

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Welcome to the conversation Ironhorse.
I look forward to learning more about the new RRT-01 with you.
And I look forward to Clemence sharing his research and hopefully offering High CRI modded RRT-01 options.

I also really enjoy the super low modes and smooth ramping of the RRT-01. The only thing I wish it had was a low battery indicator. In the meantime I check my battery with a voltmeter on regular intervals, and I am also keeping an eye out for any dimming caused by low voltage.

The other day it seemed like I was needing to turn the dial further than usual to get a typical amount of light, so I put it on my light meter and discovered the maximum was about half of normal. I then tested the Protected 16340 battery and found it was near 3.06 volts, so I swapped it out for a fresh one, and recharged.

I know people feel IMR chemistry is safer regarding its reaction to overdischarge, but Im even more interested than ever, in trying the 1200mAh protected version. Im seriously considering driving the 36 miles to illumn.com today, to pick one up.

It is good to find so many people who appreciate the RRT-01. I keep meeting more and more of you, and am glad we are finding each other through these discussions.

Rotary UI and High CRI are two of my favorite features these days. Its a good time to be learning of new RRT-01 LED, battery, and new model options together.

.

Im starting to wonder, who among us is using unprotected 18350 IMR in our RRT-01’s, and what strategies do they use, to manage unprotected batteries safely, and to prevent overdischarge?

Until recently I have relied on protected 16340, but atm Im experimenting with unprotected IMR. My use pattern is not high brightness, nor long runtime, so I dont have high risk of overdischarging, and Im using my voltmeter a couple times a week to keep an eye on my usage patterns.

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The original RRT-01 is easy to emitter swap. The bezel was not glued and inside is space for a standard sized star (been awhile since I opened mine up, but I think it was 16mm).

The only important thing to keep in mind when opening it:

When unscrewing the bezel one hand (or pliers) should grip the bezel. The other should grip the head ABOVE the magnetic ring. Do not grip the head below the magnetic ring. If you do there is a chance that instead of the bezel unscrewing, the 2 halves of the head around the ring might unscrew. If that happens while the star is installed, you will torque the driver wires and possibly rip them off the driver. The wires can be repaired or replaced, but it is not easy as the driver is a sandwich and the wires are attached in the middle.

If you need more help gripping the strip of head above the magnetic ring apply grip tape.

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Yeah these lights will take the cell below healthy voltage without you noticing if you’re not careful. Great otherwise.

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CRX wrote:
Yeah these lights will take the cell below healthy voltage without you noticing if you’re not careful.

Thank you for sharing info.

I decided to do some testing to correlate lumen levels with voltage levels

What I learned is a CR123 cell below 2.9v, cannot achieve 100 lumens maximum
a CR123 cell, below 3.1v cannot achieve 200 lumens maximum
and the IMR, above 3.9v, can achieve over 400 lumens maximum

for visual learners like me:

note that for the IMR, I had to switch the scale on the light meter by 10x (yellow arrows), so the 43.7 corresponds to 437 lumens. In all cases, the rotary dial is at Maximum.

This is with an N219b 4500k 9080 LED mod in my RRT-01. My light meter is calibrated to my 200 lumen HDS.

Conclusion, when my RRT-01 w IMR battery drops to 25% of initial brightness, it is not yet overdischarged, and still a safe time to recharge.

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Firelight2 wrote:
The original RRT-01 is easy to emitter swap. The bezel was not glued and inside is space for a standard sized star (been awhile since I opened mine up, but I think it was 16mm).

The only important thing to keep in mind when opening it:

When unscrewing the bezel one hand (or pliers) should grip the bezel. The other should grip the head ABOVE the magnetic ring. Do not grip the head below the magnetic ring. If you do there is a chance that instead of the bezel unscrewing, the 2 halves of the head around the ring might unscrew. If that happens while the star is installed, you will torque the driver wires and possibly rip them off the driver. The wires can be repaired or replaced, but it is not easy as the driver is a sandwich and the wires are attached in the middle.

If you need more help gripping the strip of head above the magnetic ring apply grip tape.

Hello Firelight2,

I Bought a JetBeam Tc-R1 Titanium Flashlight that I Used about 4 years and Loved the Magnetic Ring Brightness Control, until it was lost. I bought a used one on Flea(Bay) a few years ago and in only 3 weeks when changing the Battery and Not (paying attention) I was changing the Battery when The wires twisted and pulled out of the 2 Boards Crying . It had been repaired and No Red locktite applied to keep it from coming apart Shocked . I Separated the 2 Boards and soldered new wires in Place, But they were Not flexible and came loose when I reassembled the Head. I now have silicone insulated flexible wire and Hope it will work the next time I try to repair it (if the Boards are good) it May work I Hope? If Not, I will have to find someone else to Modify it for Me because I have been without it Way too Long & I Love that type of Brightness Control that goes from 1-500 with a Simple Twist of the Ring!

I do have an Old Original RRT-01 that I use and Love But it’s wearing out and I Hope the New Model is as Good and Smooth as these Old Ones???

jon_slider;
Thank You for letting Everyone know about the New Model that’s being made. I Appreciate it So Much as this Is the Best and Easiest Ui Light Control Ever made, Hands Down! My All Time Favorite that I Can’t seem to do without, So Thank You for the Heads Up.

Interested in repairing my JetBeam TC-R1, (I’m lacking knowledge and a Novice) Wires broken between LED and Double Stacked Boards below. I soldered New wire to LED (Brass LED Base is loose, not glued or secured). 1 wire is Broken just above the top of the

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Tooreal wrote:

jon_slider;
Thank You for letting Everyone know about the New Model that’s being made. I Appreciate it So Much as this Is the Best and Easiest Ui Light Control Ever made, Hands Down! My All Time Favorite that I Can’t seem to do without, So Thank You for the Heads Up.

Actually it was me who did the heads-up but no problem with that Big Smile

Here’s a video from hkequipment on their thread :

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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Ironhorse
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Am I seeing left hand threads?

noboneshotdog
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Ironhorse wrote:
Am I seeing left hand threads?

Hmmmm, pretty smart, that way you won’t accidentally unscrew the head when turning it on.

I remember my old RRT01 head needing to be tightened pretty hard to keep that from happening.

Now if we get LVP and a stronger indent in the off position to prevent accidental activation in the pocket we will have a winner.

My old RRT01 used to turn on in my pocket all the time if I didn’t loosen the head to lock it out.

Thier ain’t no bones in a hot dog. F. York

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