WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion]

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jon_slider
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moderator007 wrote:
Need beam shots of that E21a mod Silly maybe compared to the 219b sw45k.

best I can do until daylight, which helps my iphone auto white balance to bias more to daylight white balance (and makes the sw45k look more pink and the warmer LEDs look warmer.. anyway… here are some shots for now)

I hope this next one does not confuse people, it uses a white balance closer to incandescent

this shot may also be helpful, Im trying to compare my warm LEDs to each other

bottom lines
the 3500k E21a is whiter than incandescent, which makes it useful in the evening

and the 3500k E21 is slightly more pink than the 3500k 219b 9080 (though its hard to catch that in the pics).. I prefer the E21a to the 3500k 219b, also because I feel the E21a does a better job with making reds and blues pop.. I was a bit disappointed with the sw35 9080.. a bit too yellow

I especially like the 3000k 219b, it has a nice sunset orange effect, not really easy to capture in the photos.. Im not really that fond of 3500k myself, though I know it is a popular option, so Im experimenting..

I like the sw45k and sw45 for daytime EDC

the warmer LEDs are fun in the evening, before bed, on the nightstand, in full darkness.. they are closer to firelight

I like both choices.. a cooler one, and a warmer one, for different scenarios

===

===

and some lumen data before and after the e21a mod

Initial V11r lumens on 16340 w
6000k low CRI XM-L2 was 0.01 low and 420 lumens max (spec is 1 lumen low, and 570 lumens max w 16340, neither spec was remotely accurate)

after the swap to
3500k High CRI E21a, 0.02 low, and 255 lumens maximum, that is a 40% drop

I dont mind giving up lumens for CRI the color rendering of the E21a makes me very happy.. totally worth it.. I seldom use more than 100 lumens.. the rest is gravy
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jon_slider wrote:
since Unheard is OK with the tint of the 219c, I think your link to the 16mm board w 219c is a higher output option.. as long as hes OK grinding down the diameter of the board to fit the 2019 RRT-01

I have to admit I ordered the 10mm PCB. My last experiments in grinding down a MCPCB ended in touching the solder pads. I was never happy with that, ordered another, smaller board and had some fun centering it (SST-40, M20 Warrior S with SX pill). Amazingly, all worked well. Yes, I’m a novice here Blushing
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moderator007 wrote:
He offers a led reflow service, I think for a dollar.
He also has a store. https://www.virence.com/shop

Thanks! And wow, that’s more or less a symbolic price.
jon_slider
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yes
the post office makes more than Clemence does on one of his impeccably lapped copper boards with a reflow of a tiny flat E21a pre mounted

the guy lives on rice and beans, in paradise
surrounded by beautiful maidens

he invited me to come visit…

Unheard wrote:
Amazingly, all worked well. Yes, I’m a novice here Blushing

welcome, Im novice too
click to a good thread to post some pics of your mod Smile

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for those of you who bought RRT 2019 and want a lighter weight AL head w/ TIR optics support see here:

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1560233

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Angry Zeka wrote:
https://www.fasttech.com/products/9691168 $47.32 with GOLD15

Says invalid for me?

Edit: GOLD10 gets me it for $50.10
Edit #2: GOLD10 only worked for me on my desktop, not mobile for some reason…

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dk21291 wrote:

Says invalid for me?

You are late.
https://www.fasttech.com/forums/promotions/t/3026868/chinese-national-da...
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Public service announcement.

The short clip on the Original RRT-01 can remove the anodising from the edge of the head tube when changing batteries. Inserting a business card, or lifting the clip when opening and closing the light, can prevent this.

.
.
Strobe discovered
in some of the Original RRT-01 from the recent group buy

credit to moderator007 for reporting this one.
The units with no strobe, say RRT01 in the serial number. as in the top light in the photo:

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In the top RRT01 the sn looks more like a date code to me with the letters and numbers.
The bottom one with strobe and sos just uses a plain number for the sn.
I suggest giving your RRT01 a test. Turn it on in about med then quickly to high and back to about med, then back to high. More less when the light is on twist the control ring to high twice quickly or three times. If you have the EYE10 driver you’ll get some flashy modes that are infinitely variable in brightness. Wink

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Has anyone been able to remove the stainless steel tail cap with the lanyard hole in it.
Picture here from jon_slider http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1350184#comment-1350184
.
The new RRT01 is on sale again at Fasttech for $47.32 using code “CANDY15” if anyone is interested. Thumbs Up

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moderator007 wrote:
Has anyone been able to remove the stainless steel tail cap with the lanyard hole in it.

I think this means yes:
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1511588#comment-1511588

Archibald Tuttle wrote:
The screw in lanyard makes adding machined or 3D printed attachments easy as well. On a 3D printer, I made a twist off RRT01 lanyard cap for father-in -law that holds pills and hearing aid batteries Big Smile
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Im posting to consolidate some 18650 tube options for the Original RRT-01

Archibald Tuttle wrote:
For anyone who wants to run an 18650 with your original RRT-01: a Crelant 7G3CS battery tube fits nicely onto the original RRT-01’s head.
a link to the Crelant

ToyKeeper wrote:
The old RRT01 also legos with a Convoy S2 tube, IIRC. But it requires sanding down the tube threads to make it short enough for a good fit. Or dealing with exposed threads and no waterproofing.
here is the link to a convoy S2 host
Firelight2 wrote:
Incidentally, the threads in the old RRT-01 are compatible with the threads in the Manker E14 / Astrolux S41.

@Firelight2, That is not correct.
I just bought an Astrolux S41, and its 18650 tube is NOT compatible with an RRT-01. The threads bind, and the light does not work.

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t ouellette

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jon_slider wrote:
Im posting to consolidate some 18650 tube options for the Original RRT-01
Firelight2 wrote:
Incidentally, the threads in the old RRT-01 are compatible with the threads in the Manker E14 / Astrolux S41.

@Firelight2, That is not correct.
I just bought an Astrolux S41, and its 18650 tube is NOT compatible with an RRT-01. The threads bind, and the light does not work.


Ah crap.

I have an 18650 tube that I thought was from an E14 whose threads perfectly fit the old RRT-01. The threads do not bind and the light functions normally. The tube has too many threads so some are exposed, but a little time with a hacksaw and file would fix that.

I thought the tube was from my E14, but failed to double-check. Must’ve been from a different light. Maybe a BLF A6. I’ll double-check and report back.

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I am curious about sourcing a sapphire lens for my Original RRT-01

here are my research notes…

1. Need to verify the size of the Original RRT-01 lens

here are some sites that sell sapphire lenses of various sizes…

source for domed watch lenses this one is glass, not sapphire, $7
18mm x 1mm (does it fit Original RRT-01?)
https://mccawcompany.com/watchparts/crystals/mineral-glass/domed-mineral...

—-
source for sapphire watch lenses $25
22.5×1.5 could work for HDS/Novatac?:
https://www.esslinger.com/round-sapphire-watch-crystal-1-5-mm-thick/

———
sapphire lens for $5 for fw3a (how does he do such a low price?)
23×1.5 mm (wonder if it fits HDS/Novatac?)
https://www.nealsgadgets.com/products/sapphire-lens-for-fw3a?_pos=1&_sid...

——
sapphire lens for hds $51
https://www.hdssystems.com/Products/LensSapphire/
(same as novatac lens 22.61 × 1.9 mm ?)

—————
Novatac lenses need to be 22.61mm x 1,90mm
a source for 22.61 × 2.2 mm UCL, for size reference info.. they do not sell sapphire
https://www.flashlightlens.com/index.php?app=ecom&ns=prodshow&ref=UCLp_AR

—-

a useful list of different flashlight lens sizes:
https://www.flashlightlens.com/index.php?app=cms&ns=display&ref=apps_specs

——
If anyone knows the dimensions of an Original RRT-01 lens, please share (or I will figure it out).

If anyone has experience sourcing a sapphire lens that fits the Original RRT-01, please share….

I am NOT trying to argue the pros and cons of sapphire, vs UCL, vs acrylic.. choices are good

sapphire is just bling!
bling is good.. lol!

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I bought some sapphire lenses on aliexpress, as far as I can check it, they are legit. This store has a good collection. Check if they are flat and the correct thickness, because they are sold as watch christals, some are convex.

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thanks for the link and suggestions to avoid domed lenses
I have not actually found any sapphire listings in the 18mm diameter range (intended for original RRT-01), yet

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I’m not around a lot anymore, made a lovely career change in my 50’s that’s all encompassing at this point.

Try this fellow for sapphire, if he doesn’t have what you need, he will more than likely recommend a source. I just used his lenses for a NiteCore mod last year, very happy. Be cautious of crystal thickness and also of replacements with rounded edges, you made need o-ring changes, depending on the torch. .005 matters Smile

Link

Ya momma..

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Archibald Tuttle wrote:
Try this fellow for sapphire…
Link

Thank you Sir!
that link includes this size:

18.5 × 1 mm for $8, that may be in the ballpark for the RRT-01..
(need to confirm the lens dimension..)

and thanks for the 0.13 mm tolerance ( 0.005) relevance, advance warning about rounded edges, and potential replacement O ring awareness
all very helpful

visualizing
a Sapphire lens Wink
and tritiums

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Jon can you check the size of Eye10/15? If they are the same as rrt01 then just give a call to Fanny.

She sent me one spare for eye15 for few bucks

WTB  Jetbeam TCR1  &  Titanium 47 2xAA Quark

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id30209 wrote:
can you check the size of Eye10

yes, I just have to decide which Eye10 or RRT-01 to open, when Im in there for other tasks like ring lube and LED swap..

thanks for the suggestion to ask Fanny for a replacement lens..

My lenses are actually fine

Im researching Sapphire lenses.. that cost $51 for an HDS,
or $5 for an FW3a (I think this is more in my ballpark.. lol)

thanks to Archibald Tuttle, I think it may get done for $8 for an RRT-01…

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RRT-01 LENS

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shirnask wrote:
RRT-01 LENS

thank you very much for the help
1.62 × 20 on your pics

1.5 × 20 on ebay

the 0.12 thinner sapphire, should work well with the slightly taller kaidomain reflectors we are using in the Original RRT-01 mods..

time to put my money where my mouth is..
will report back after I try one of those sapphire lenses

thank you all for the sleuthing

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jon_slider wrote:

the 0.12 thinner sapphire, should work well with the slightly taller kaidomain reflectors we are using in the Original RRT-01 mods..

That’s exactly what I was thinking.
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Archibald Tuttle wrote:
…to run an 18650 with your original RRT-01: a Crelant 7G3CS battery tube fits nicely onto the original RRT-01’s head.

I shared that suggestion with someone, but it did not work out as expected… I dont know why, I have not tried the Crelant myself…

they reported
Crelant 7G3CS arrived today. It does NOT fit the JetBeam RRT-01 as I had hoped. I put an 18650 battery in it and it has two speeds, 1226 lumens and 350 lumens … Note that the Crelant 7G3CS tube threads are slightly different than the RRT-01 and will not engage in the JetBeam’s head

any solution I can pass on would be appreciated

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Some tubes working on the old RRT01s (even if not perfectly…)
SOFIRN SP32 / SP32A

CONVOY S2+

ACEBEAM TK16 (can only be used for momentary ON, due to the e-switch it uses)

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

OL Contest 2019

GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

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This thread really needs to become a sticky. Sincere thanks to everyone who contributed. Late last year, I lost my Nitecore D10 to American Airlines, and began using a long stored JB TCR1 as EDC. The adjustment ring on the TCR1 was just pure trash. I almost treated it as such, and nearly binned it.
Some BLF knowledge and some Nyogel ( it had no grease, none) turned the TCR1 into a world class flashlight. It’s hard, for me, to go back to another EDC interface after using the dimmer type dial.
A stock BLF Q8, modded Thrunite TH20 & modded JB TCR1 are a extremely versatile trio. Thumbs Up

“When the well’s dry, we know the worth of water” – Benjamin Franklin

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Very sorry for your loss of a D10, really happy for you to have a TCR-1 to enjoy.

When I got my TCR-1 the dial was not smooth, it took a lot of massage and lubricant to get it to feel buttery smooth (without disassembly).

Some of my RRT-01 were also not smooth, but after disassembly and lubricating with Nyogel 767a they became a joy to use.

The feel of a smooth the ring with no grittyness, nor excessively easy to turn, transforms the experience from apparent low quality, to feeling like a High Quality instrument.

The convenience of operation of the Jetbeam Rotaries have spoiled me. I still use a couple clicky lights (one set to 0.02 lumens for bathroom visits, and one that turns on at 20 lumens for brief illumination needs on my desk, but I have greatly slowed my accumulation of lights with buttons.

For me, the RRT-01 has been a game changer… not sure why, but I seem to have accumulated more than one.. lol!

I agree this thread is full of a wealth of info. Thanks to all who participate and contribute.

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