WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion]

616 posts / 0 new
Last post
moderator007
moderator007's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 14 min ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 04:47
Posts: 3172
Location: North Carolina
noboneshotdog wrote:
Ironhorse wrote:
Am I seeing left hand threads?

Hmmmm, pretty smart, that way you won’t accidentally unscrew the head when turning it on.

I remember my old RRT01 head needing to be tightened pretty hard to keep that from happening.

Now if we get LVP and a stronger indent in the off position to prevent accidental activation in the pocket we will have a winner.

My old RRT01 used to turn on in my pocket all the time if I didn’t loosen the head to lock it out.

Turning the light (ring) ON is the same direction as unscrewing the head. Turning it Off tightens the head. Strange! Sad
Is the original RRT this way?

Tooreal
Tooreal's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 01/13/2016 - 14:47
Posts: 65
Location: Southeastern U.S.
moderator007 wrote:
noboneshotdog wrote:
Ironhorse wrote:
Am I seeing left hand threads?

Hmmmm, pretty smart, that way you won’t accidentally unscrew the head when turning it on.

I remember my old RRT01 head needing to be tightened pretty hard to keep that from happening.

Now if we get LVP and a stronger indent in the off position to prevent accidental activation in the pocket we will have a winner.

My old RRT01 used to turn on in my pocket all the time if I didn’t loosen the head to lock it out.

Turning the light (ring) ON is the same direction as unscrewing the head. Turning it Off tightens the head. Strange! Sad
Is the original RRT this way?

No the Original turned the Opposite way, Right Hand Threads to tighten the Head and the Ring turned to the Right for more Brightness which was the opposite direction iirc?

MascaratumB
Thank You for the Heads Up.
This light looks like it’s a Larger Diameter than the old style. With the Ring turning the other direction I Don’t know if I could get use to that very easily? My Sunwayman Rotery Lights turn to the Right for More Lumens Like the Old style JetBeam. That would take some getting use too. But it still looks Good.

Interested in repairing my JetBeam TC-R1, (I’m lacking knowledge and a Novice) Wires broken between LED and Double Stacked Boards below. I soldered New wire to LED (Brass LED Base is loose, not glued or secured). 1 wire is Broken just above the top of the

Noir
Noir's picture
Offline
Last seen: 27 min 18 sec ago
Joined: 06/03/2018 - 09:13
Posts: 87
Location: Germany

The video from HKE is, confusingly, mirrored (at 0:03 you can see the writing on the light is all backwards). This means the threads are normal and the brightness is increased by turning the ring clockwise (when looking at the tail), this is the same as on the V11R.

xevious
xevious's picture
Online
Last seen: 13 min 57 sec ago
Joined: 02/27/2013 - 21:55
Posts: 1090
Location: Hoboken, NJ USA

I have an older RRT-01 that I love for its looks and magnetic control ring, as well as super low lumens mode, but I don’t like the beam tint at all. Silly

I would also be interested to know if Clemence can offer the RRT-01 with Hi CRI emitter. If cost isn’t too scary, I could go for that.

jon_slider
jon_slider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 41 min ago
Joined: 09/08/2015 - 12:20
Posts: 2410
Location: The Land of Enchantment

ToyKeeper wrote:
I had to use protected cells to avoid cell damage, which meant a ~650 mAh 16340 instead of a ~1150 mAh 18350

I went to illumn and tried their protected 1200mAh 18350 Keeppower

Unfortunately, they are too long and the RRT-01 will not close..
left protected 1200mAh Keepower 18350, right unprotected 1200mAh Keepower 18350 that I am using in my RRT-01:

However, Im comfortable using unprotected IMR.

.

xevious wrote:
I would also be interested to know if Clemence can offer the RRT-01 with Hi CRI emitter. If cost isn’t too scary, I could go for that.

Clemence has very reasonable prices for his modding services and LEDs.

We may see some progress from Clemence modding an RRT-01 next month. We need to wait and see if the E21a and Optisolis are compatible with the magnetic ring.

here are the issues Im aware of, that need to be assessed:
The light needs to be tested on a light meter to determine IF the magnetic ring remains stable with the E21a and or Optisolis. It IS reasonably stable with the N219b. The drift is less than 10% and not visible to the naked eye.

by stable I mean, that I dont want the lumens to keep drifting once the ring stops turning.

I test that by putting the light on my light meter, and then rotating the whole light, 180 degrees, Im not turning the dial.
you can see the variation is less than 10%, not visible in actual use

this V11r w 3000k N219c was not acceptable, the drift was too large:
ranged from 65 lumens to 124 simply by rotating the light 180 degrees.

The V11r also had a very large continuing change in brightness, after I stopped turning the ring itself.

So Im reporting 2 different factors, first, the change from repositioning the whole light by 180 degrees. Second, the fact that the lumens continue to change significantly, after turning the dial and letting go.

Other issues with the RRT-01 is that there is photographable flicker (constant current ripple), but that is not visible to my naked eye. Most Constant Current lights do some form of this: (including Olights, and on the Olight it is visible)

moderator007
moderator007's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 14 min ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 04:47
Posts: 3172
Location: North Carolina

I tried that same test you did with my modded V11R’s jon_slider after watching your video a few weeks ago. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/63943
My test was slightly different though. I used it stuck in my maukka lights calibrated lumen tube. At high I get about a 7 lumen spread turning it 360 degrees.
At a low setting of 24 lumens I get about a 2 lumen spread turning it 720 degrees. I did notice though that if the light had not been on and warm that the lumens did jump up from the initial setting with out touching a thing. From cold at a setting of 89 lumens the lumens jumped up slowly over the next minute or so to about 113 lumens. Once the light had operated for that minute or so it became almost stable. Seems like some of the components are changing values with temp, changing the regulated output.

jon_slider
jon_slider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 41 min ago
Joined: 09/08/2015 - 12:20
Posts: 2410
Location: The Land of Enchantment
moderator007 wrote:
I tried that same test you did with my modded V11R’s … At high I get about a 7 lumen spread turning it 360 degrees. At a low setting of 24 lumens I get about a 2 lumen spread turning it 720 degrees. … From cold at a setting of 89 lumens the lumens jumped up slowly over the next minute or so to about 113 lumens.

thank you for sharing your test results, very helpful
which LED?
which lumen level is high mode (battery type changes this)? but in either case that is less than 5% change.

thanks for the warmup change info, thats 27%, but according to HDS we dont “see” a change of less than 40%
at 24 lumens the change is just 8%, Im fine with that

I dont understand your use of 360 and 720 degrees, to me that means one full turn, and two full turns.. is that what you meant?:-)

the change I see is by rotating the light 180 degrees, iow, half way around.. first I locate which way it wants to face to get the highest level. I believe these effects are caused by the earth magnetic field interacting with the magnetic ring.

and I believe that some LEDs with lower forward voltage might be the cause of more magnetic sensitivity… not sure

regulation is not always precise. Even HDS fluctuates by 2% on a given setting, it will climb then drop, then climb again, within that range. It is not visible to the naked eye.

what bothers me more with a magnetic light is that the lumen drift continues after I stop turning the dial. And you might notice that if the dial is turned upward, the drift continues upward. And when the dial is turned to a lower level, and released, the drift continues downward. Kind of fun, but not if I can see the change and have to keep repositioning the dial over and over. That was the problem with my 3000k 219c modded V11r, the drift would continue after I stopped touching the dial, and it was a very large amount of drift, that I could see.

With my N219b 4500k 9080 in my RRT-01 the drift is small enough that I cant see it.. less than 10% at the 100 lumen range. The drift is a larger percentage at lower levels, approaching 30%, but also a smaller number of lumens.

Very few “regulated” lights, actually produce constant lumen levels, but usually the fluctuation is not visible to the naked eye.

noboneshotdog
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 15 min ago
Joined: 05/12/2012 - 08:47
Posts: 574
Location: Hudson, New Hampshire

Are these tests being done w new version or old version of the light?

Thier ain’t no bones in a hot dog. F. York

moderator007
moderator007's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 14 min ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 04:47
Posts: 3172
Location: North Carolina

jon_slider wrote:

I dont understand your use of 360 and 720 degrees, to me that means one full turn, and two full turns.. is that what you meant?:-)

Yelp, that’s what it means. I turned it completely around twice to make sure. I hold it in my finger tips and spin it while still in the tube.
jon_slider wrote:
which LED?

LH351D 4000k 90cri
jon_slider wrote:
which lumen level is high mode (battery type changes this)?

Not really a mode but on the upper level of the rotation, seems like around 500 lumens using a trustfire IMR16340 650mah (red-gold) when I tested it. I get 900 lumens at max, full rotation. Makes over a 1000 lumens with a olight 10c 16340.
jon_slider wrote:
what bothers me more with a magnetic light is that the lumen drift continues after I stop turning the dial. And you might notice that if the dial is turned upward, the drift continues upward. And when the dial is turned to a lower level, and released, the drift continues downward. Kind of fun, but not if I can see the change and have to keep repositioning the dial over and over. That was the problem with my 3000k 219c modded V11r, the drift would continue after I stopped touching the dial, and it was a very large amount of drift, that I could see.

That’s exactly the behavior I noticed but improved once the light had been on for awhile. I can run it max for a minute or so to warm up the light and try to test it again to make sure. In the first test a few weeks ago the drift became less after playing with it a few minutes but it did drift at first a lot. I’ll check it again to see if that does make a difference.
jon_slider
jon_slider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 41 min ago
Joined: 09/08/2015 - 12:20
Posts: 2410
Location: The Land of Enchantment

noboneshotdog wrote:
Are these tests being done w new version or old version of the light?
afaik nobody has the new version yet, my test is my original RRT-01 with led mod to n219b 4500k 9080..

moderator007 is testing a V11r w an LED mod to LH351D 4000k 90cri

moderator007 wrote:
I can run it max for a minute or so to warm up the light and try to test it again to make sure.
thanks for all the details
no need to retest the drift for my sake
I would like you to test the greatest difference in output between 180 degree change of orientation. that is a different factor than the drift after the light stops moving (emulates after the dial stops turning), which is what you are testing so far.
toddcshoe
toddcshoe's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 49 min ago
Joined: 01/24/2018 - 23:49
Posts: 2025
Location: Foley, MO

Made a offer on HKEquipment’s Ebay ad for the new RRT01. Didn’t low ball the heck out of him or anything. Just trying to save a few dollars. If they accept I will have one on the way shortly. I never would have ordered one if it wasn’t for 18350 compatibility. 16340’s just don’t do it for me anymore. Got rid of all but 2 of my 16340 lights. I have a LH351 5000K emitter here waiting for it.

"Everywhere I go, there I am"

Woody
Woody's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 37 min ago
Joined: 02/20/2012 - 17:08
Posts: 1637
Location: London

This thread has inspired me to dig out my old RRT001 and Mirage version of the V11R. I much prefer the RRT001, but do remember the pain in finding the 18350 cell I had didn’t fit, nor did some of my 16340’s. I resorted to the Nitecore cells, which are pretty poor. The ring on the V11R was really tight – for about 2 seconds, and now it’s far too loose.

Doubt if I’ll get the new version – would prefer if it had integral USB charging, but it’s nice to play with the old one after quite a few years. I seem to recall I bought it from Thrunite, when they had a phase selling other light brands.

jon_slider
jon_slider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 41 min ago
Joined: 09/08/2015 - 12:20
Posts: 2410
Location: The Land of Enchantment

toddcshoe wrote:
I will have one on the way shortly.
thanks for trying to spend your money for our research department Wink

Woody wrote:
would prefer if it had integral USB charging
the new model includes a USB battery, which you can also buy separately, Olight makes one.

I prefer a USB battery, instead of USB built into the light, because it lets me keep using the light with a spare battery, while charging the depleted one.

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Online
Last seen: 8 min 41 sec ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 4221
Location: Portugal

jon_slider wrote:

I went to illumn and tried their protected 1200mAh 18350 Keeppower

Unfortunately, they are too long and the RRT-01 will not close..
left protected 1200mAh Keepower 18350, right unprotected 1200mAh Keepower 18350 that I am using in my RRT-01:

jon, thanks for the info on that! I don’t have stock protected 18350s so I couldn’t test one.

However, here are ome notes on the OLD versions of the RRT01 I have and the different batteries they work with or not!

The stock RRT01 works with unprotected button 16340 batteries (between 33,8mm – 34,3mm) and a protected 16340 button top battery (36,5mm, in this case a Wuben battery).
It doesn’t work with unprotected flat top 18350 batteries such as the Keepower 750mAh and Aspire 1100mAh (34,7mm and 35mm, respectively). However, it works with the CRX modded battery (flat top Keeppower with protection circuit) that has about 36,4mm.

About the triple RRT01 (that was also modded internally, in the positive contact, so that it could take flat tops) it works with all the mentioned types and sizes of batteries, button or flat top, protected or unprotected.

____________

About the rotation tests and the changed in the values shown in the luxmeter, I’ll transcribe what I’ve talked with jon_slider some time ago when I received the CRX RRT01. They are not scientific tests, they were what they were and can, eventually, show some influence of earth magnetism in the magnetic ring of these lights:

MascaratumB wrote:
So, method:
- I used my luxmeter configure on FC (Foot Candela). I later tried used Lux and the overal behaviour is similar so the type of measurement isn’t relevant.
- Put the white cap over the light receptor and used black tape to hold it!
- put the RRT01 (from CRX) switched over the luxmeter cap (turn ON)
- rotated the magnetic ring a while (not the max) and waited for 30-32 seconds for the numbers to get stable
- turned the flashlight to 3 or 4 different sides; each turn took about 5-6 seconds to get the numbers stabilized; when they were stable, I took the photo.
- BTW, to see if the numbers have any kind of consistency, I put the clip forward 2 times and get the “same” numbers (499 and 498)!

These are some of the photos I took! I don’t know if it is relevant or not, but:
a) the RRT01 has some magnets “glued” on the body
b) I’ve just tried the same process with the Wuben E05 and Olight M1T Raider and the both get variations when turned; however, these are much smaller, saying 4 or 5 numbers up or down!

And another test, not rotating the flashlight, but rotating myself in 4 different directions ( + ) with the flashlight on the same position over the luxmeter.

Quote:
1st test
As the RRT01 has a magnet on the side, I “attached” it to the fridge, with the light pointing towards the ceiling. The light sat still and I rotated the luxmeter above it instead. Guess what? The output barely changed when I rotated the meter!!

Now, let’s assume the pocket clip was on the EAST (not really, but just a relative position).
_____________

2nd test:
I did the same as in #1, but this time the flashlight was “attached” to the microwaves and the pocket clip was pointing towards WEST (again, relative position, as opposite to the #1 test). I repeated the same procedure, with the same output locked in the flashlight, and the numbers barely changed – again – when the luxmeter was rotated!
__________________

3rd test
I picked the flashlight, picked the luxmeter; put the flashlight over the cap, still, without rotating the light or the luxmeter! Instead, I put the luxmeter (with the RRT over the cap, pointing towards the floor) perpendicular to my belly, and I rotated my body pointing to 4 different directions (imagine, N, S, E, W). Guess what? Even if the light was still over the meter, the numbers changed as on the test I did before (in the picture I sent you).
BUT, this change was only registered in higher ouptuts, when the ring is more rotated! As an example, here the numbers varied from 948 FC to 990 FC (opposite directions)

In lower outputs, also an example, from 206FC and 221FC in the opposite direction

In even lower ouptuts, I got 6FC in every direction!

So, I guess this is more or less a way (non-scientific, though) to show that the magnetism changed this flashlight output, by affecting SLIGHTLY the magnetic ring/mechanism when higher ouputs are set and the ring is more distant from the 0 output position!

Beer

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

jon_slider
jon_slider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 41 min ago
Joined: 09/08/2015 - 12:20
Posts: 2410
Location: The Land of Enchantment

MascaratumB
thank you for taking the time to do light meter tests of your CRX triple modded RRT-01. That information gave me confidence to risk having my RRT-01 modded to N219b 4500k 9080, and it is now my favorite light!

about magnetic direction sensitivity:
I would be very interested in tests of a single LED RRT-01, IF the LED is modded.

The test protocol I find most interesting, is to secure the RRT-01 to the light meter, and then rotate the whole light meter in quarter turns, or less, until the highest and lowest numbers are produced. Then I like to calculate percent change from lowest number to higher number. I try to use about 100 lumen ballpark for this test.

about batteries
for your stock RRT-01, you report:

MascaratumB wrote:
It doesn’t work with unprotected flat top 18350 batteries such as the Keepower 750mAh
I confirm the same result with my RRT-01, the 750 mAh Keepower 18350 I have does NOT work in my RRT-01. I do not have Aspire 18350, thanks for telling me they dont work in a stock RRT-01.

Im very happy that the Keepower 1200 mAh 18350 Works in my RRT-01, even though it is also a flat top Smile

I also have Olight and Fenix protected 16340 with USB charging built ink, both work fine in my RRT-01

The Olight version is a little shorter than the Fenix version. The Keepower 1200 mAh 18350 is also slightly shorter than the Fenix version.
the Protected Olight 16340 w USB is on the left:

all 3 pictured batteries work in my RRT-01

Of the protected 16340’s, I prefer the Olight version, because it also fits better (less tight fit) in my Ti and Copper Olight S Minis, and in my Olight S1 Mini’s. The Fenix version works fine in the RRT-01, because that light has more spring travel than my Olights.

clemence
clemence's picture
Offline
Last seen: 14 hours 30 min ago
Joined: 07/12/2015 - 02:58
Posts: 2354
Location: Bali - Indonesia

Hi all,

I finally manage to check into this thread. Jon and I had a conversation about this little light earlier. I almost included one in my latest purchase to JB but earlier review of RRT01 held me back (self discharge, inefficiency, non flat regulation at max, etc…). I really like the idea because unlike most people in BLF, I hate single button UI but that’s the trend so I have to live with that. Why only one button when you can make more? Under panicking it’s completely useless. Single button works great only with single output. I prefer QWERTY over Phone portrait style keypads, it’s less work for my brain. Rotary UI keeps it fully functional with simple intuitive movement.

Just recently I work with JB but everything has been smooth and pleasant up to this day. I also like how they keep refining the same product they launched years ago. For example the tiny Jet-U launched in 2012, it’s the 3rd generation with so much better everything (except the price). I would not buy/use/sell early Jet-U for sure. The JB connection started months ago when my dentist friend asked me to get her a small high CRI AAA inspection light. Bought some Jet-U for her, installed some different E21A. Now she swears on 6500K E21A (Optisolis is too floody for her needs)

I have a few things about my built, which I think makes me not a good money maker. I only make things that I like. I have a STRONG preference for regulated runtime with any flashlight. If they can’t give me a flat curve (within 10% at reasonable duration) I simply dislike the rest of the light’s features. If its simple to fix, then I might like it, otherwise, a no go. To me, this also (partly) shows how reasonable the designed output for a given flashlight. Up to this day I only like current controlled driver be it PWM for the lower modes or not. I just can’t stand linear or DD, even if I forced myself to.

So, Jon asked me if I can make him a special RRT01 with JS style beam. I suggested him to avoid Optisolis whenever possible for the extra hassles it creates. I think it’s doable and simple (he doesn’t care much about efficiency). So the plan was to get one RRT01 XPL for him and start from there. If I like it then I’ll mass mod RRT01. Otherwise I will only make one RRT01 for Jon.

- Clemence

jon_slider
jon_slider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 41 min ago
Joined: 09/08/2015 - 12:20
Posts: 2410
Location: The Land of Enchantment

Thanks for posting an update Clemence. I hope the RRT-01 meets your requirements, Im extremely happy with mine.

And Im a huge fan of the E21a, it does not have to be Optisolis. Speaking of E21a lights, there is a new AAA that I just tested for prototyping.. dont look here , or it might cost you money :-).

The light has a beacon mode, which I know is a weakness of yours, but I’m sure you will not like the UI, so your wallet is probably safe. Smile

clemence
clemence's picture
Offline
Last seen: 14 hours 30 min ago
Joined: 07/12/2015 - 02:58
Posts: 2354
Location: Bali - Indonesia

jon_slider wrote:
Thanks for posting an update Clemence. I hope the RRT-01 meets your requirements, Im extremely happy with mine.

And Im a huge fan of the E21a, it does not have to be Optisolis. Speaking of E21a lights, there is a new AAA that I just tested for prototyping.. dont look here , or it might cost you money :-).

The light has a beacon mode, which I know is a weakness of yours, but I’m sure you will not like the UI, so your wallet is probably safe. Smile

Thanks Jon. It’s a little too big for me since I keychain/neckchain all of my AAAs. You’re right the UI is a big turn off for me.

- Clemence

jon_slider
jon_slider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 41 min ago
Joined: 09/08/2015 - 12:20
Posts: 2410
Location: The Land of Enchantment

clemence wrote:
I keychain/neckchain all of my AAAs.
there is no keychain connection on that Folomov, glad your wallet is safe

now back to the RRT-01, I look forward to your impressions
please dont hurry, my wallet needs time to recover Wink

moderator007
moderator007's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 14 min ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 04:47
Posts: 3172
Location: North Carolina

Jon_slider I ran the V11R test again in the lumen tube. The largest drift I get is 12 lumens turning the light at 500 lumens. At 8 lumens I got .2 lumens but that could have been partially from if the light moves in a different position in the lumen tube it reads slightly different. This was all tested after the light had become warm and stabilized.

When first turned on, on the high end of output a saw about a 100 lumen drift from cold start. Even in the lower end from a cold start the light will vary 30 to 40 lumens at about 100 lumen initial setting this is if I don’t even touch the light, just free standing on the first diffuser. But once the light becomes warm and I spin the light around about 180 degrees is when the largest drift occurs after warm. Turn it another 180 degrees and the drift goes back to where it was when I started. The most I saw turning it 360 degrees, was 12 lumens at 500 lumens.

I was curious about the larger drift from a cold start, so I did another test. I thought it might be the electronic components heating up on the driver causing the current to change and increasing lumens.

I turned on the light and let it warm up and stabilize in the tube. I can see when the lumen numbers become constant that way. I dialed in precisely 200 lumens and adjusted until it stabilized there. I then turned the light off and didn’t touch anything but the switch button, leaving it resting on the first diffuser for about 5 minutes to cool. Turned the light back on not touching anything but the switch. Out put started about 170 lumens and was climbing, after warm up guess where it settled at. Within .5 lumens of 200 lumens almost exactly where I had it set.

jon_slider
jon_slider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 41 min ago
Joined: 09/08/2015 - 12:20
Posts: 2410
Location: The Land of Enchantment

moderator007 wrote:
V11r with LH351D 4000k 90cri

from a cold start the light will vary 30 to 40 lumens at about 100 lumen initial setting this is if I don’t even touch the light, just free standing

I dialed in precisely 200 lumens and adjusted until it stabilized there. I then turned the light off and didn’t touch anything but the switch button, leaving it resting on the first diffuser for about 5 minutes to cool. Turned the light back on not touching anything but the switch. Out put started about 170 lumens and was climbing, after warm up … it settled … Within .5 lumens of 200 lumens almost exactly where I had it set.

outstanding info!
thank you for taking the time

the largest change you are reporting is 40% at the 100 lumen level, without touching the light, and the change occurs as the light warms up. That is in the visible range, but most people would not notice.

The largest drift you see is 15% from cold to warm, with a 200 lumen setting… awesome! That is well below visually noticeable change…

at the 500 lumen level, once the light is warmed up, rotating it 180 degrees only produces a 12 lumen change, which is only about 2%.

My tests also show that at the lower levels, the change in lumens from turning the light 180 degrees is larger, than at higher lumen levels. That is why I chose to use a 100 lumen target for my tests. I do see larger drift at lower levels, but I dont actually notice unless I use a light meter, when testing my RRT-01 with an N219b 4500k

I have not researched the effect of warmup time, so thanks for making me aware of that variable as well.

moving forward it might be useful to begin to tabulate the vF of the leds being modded in, for now Im just happy your LH351 4000k 90CRI is working so well.

I have a hunch that your LH351 has a lower vF than my N219b, and that the N219c has an even lower vF, but I have not confirmed these details..

my present take away from the tests, is that LEDs with lower vF drift more, but, I dont have data to confirm that.. Im just happy my 219b does not have the problem I saw when I tried a 219c in a V11r

the lower vF issue is my main concern about the E21a, I hope Clemence does not find it to be a problem, otherwise, I would want to stick to 219b mods, because of the higher vF. I would not be suprised if all these vF issues could be sorted by additional changes to the resistors in the magnetic ring circuit, but I dont expect to burden Clemence with redesigning the driver.. time will tell what he will discover, when he has the time to investigate an E21a mod to the new RRT-01

congrats on the High CRI upgrade Smile
enjoy your light!

Glenn7
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 11 hours ago
Joined: 01/17/2012 - 08:02
Posts: 206
Location: Tasmania Australia

Watched it a few times, not 100% sure but in that youtube clip on HKequip page it looks to me like there is a click stop at the off position and at the high position. well I hope to have mine very soon and will let you know.

jon_slider
jon_slider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 41 min ago
Joined: 09/08/2015 - 12:20
Posts: 2410
Location: The Land of Enchantment

here, I flipped it so the rotation of the dial is correct, to the right increases

Glenn7 wrote:
Watched it a few times, not 100% sure but in that youtube clip on HKequip page it looks to me like there is a click stop at the off position and at the high position. well I hope to have mine very soon and will let you know.

I agree there seem to be detents at off and max, same as the older version.
This model has strobe, I like that

thanks for buying one, so I can learn from you,
I look forward to your impressions

Glenn7
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 11 hours ago
Joined: 01/17/2012 - 08:02
Posts: 206
Location: Tasmania Australia

Oh good so no pocket turn on then. Yep, I’ll let you know.

Another control ring light that will get you shot at the other forum is the Niteye Zip20, also Niteye had a few other control ring lights, not small tho – Niteye12 &15, Niteye MSA10 & MSC20, Eye30 & Eye40 – then I think it became Jetbeam stuff, RRT26 & RRT-3 etc.

The first control ring light that I can remember (and I owned one and it was on CPF) and can’t remember the name but was made by a guy that eventually disappeared with peoples $$ as they were a little buggy – you twisted the control ring 1/4 of a turn and it sprang back each time to change the levels, it was space age magic at the time somewhere around 2006/7ish I think.

clemence
clemence's picture
Offline
Last seen: 14 hours 30 min ago
Joined: 07/12/2015 - 02:58
Posts: 2354
Location: Bali - Indonesia

Glenn7 wrote:
Oh good so no pocket turn on then. Yep, I’ll let you know.

Another control ring light that will get you shot at the other forum is the Niteye Zip20, also Niteye had a few other control ring lights, not small tho – Niteye12 &15, Niteye MSA10 & MSC20, Eye30 & Eye40 – then I think it became Jetbeam stuff, RRT26 & RRT-3 etc.

The first control ring light that I can remember (and I owned one and it was on CPF) and can’t remember the name but was made by a guy that eventually disappeared with peoples $$ as they were a little buggy – you twisted the control ring 1/4 of a turn and it sprang back each time to change the levels, it was space age magic at the time somewhere around 2006/7ish I think.

Was it the same product from the same guy that rumoured to be copied irresponsibly by Niteeye? I remember CPF encouraged it’s member to boycott Niteeye. The clone was later pulled off the market. AFAIK the model looks similar to the now super expensive coolfall jewelry. Correct me it I’m wrong.

- Clemence

Glenn7
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 11 hours ago
Joined: 01/17/2012 - 08:02
Posts: 206
Location: Tasmania Australia

You are right it was coolfalls 007 light – it wasn’t so much that it was copied as everything out there is copied eventually, it was that niteye didn’t ask if they could or pay royalties to coolfall – but hey they are almost all sold out of the 1000+ made.

clemence
clemence's picture
Offline
Last seen: 14 hours 30 min ago
Joined: 07/12/2015 - 02:58
Posts: 2354
Location: Bali - Indonesia
Glenn7 wrote:
You are right it was coolfalls 007 light – it wasn’t so much that it was copied as everything out there is copied eventually, it was that niteye didn’t ask if they could or pay royalties to coolfall – but hey they are almost all sold out of the 1000+ made.

You said he ran with people’s money. Did you mean the original maker or Niteeye? I never knew that part.
Looks like now he (coolfall) has established with good reputation.

- Clemence

Glenn7
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 11 hours ago
Joined: 01/17/2012 - 08:02
Posts: 206
Location: Tasmania Australia

Oops no no not niteye that did a runner, it was the light with a magnetic controller ring I can’t remember the name of it – it was a one of a kind, he was making a MKII and that’s where he and the $$ disappeared. Trying to find it but couldn’t on CPF, think it’s on CPFmarket place that is now gone.

Just remembered another light I wanted but didn’t get when I could now can’t, the Sunwayman M25C Ti.

Gunga
Gunga's picture
Offline
Last seen: 30 min 25 sec ago
Joined: 11/28/2014 - 16:56
Posts: 1834
Location: Vancouver, Canada

I think the light you are talking about was the Legion. Don’t remember the maker who skipped town though.

Glenn7
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 11 hours ago
Joined: 01/17/2012 - 08:02
Posts: 206
Location: Tasmania Australia

AAAAAAH! thats it I had a brain fart it was Neofab, bringing out the Legion II was when he disappeared, a few got one and most didn’t.
It’s here and here

Pages