The There Are No Stupid Questions Thread

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Rando
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You sound like the tax man looking for people getting paid in cash.

California_Prepper
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Haha not at all. I’m just saying, there are actually companies that require direct deposit.

Lightbringer
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California_Prepper wrote:
Who doesn’t have direct deposit these days? My employer actually requires it. From my understanding, it’s expensive for an employer to actually cut a check.

I was one of the last holdouts at my place, but this was a few years ago.

I don’t like DD because you’re also giving the usual depositor the ability and implicit permission to also withdraw (without prior consent) in case there’s any “error”.

And I miss seeing Blonde Teller every week or so when I’d go cash the check on my way to lunch.

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California_Prepper
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Lightbringer wrote:
California_Prepper wrote:
Who doesn’t have direct deposit these days? My employer actually requires it. From my understanding, it’s expensive for an employer to actually cut a check.

I was one of the last holdouts at my place, but this was a few years ago.

I don’t like DD because you’re also giving the usual depositor the ability and implicit permission to also withdraw (without prior consent) in case there’s any “error”.

And I miss seeing Blonde Teller every week or so when I’d go cash the check on my way to lunch.

I agree, yet at the same time I’d rather deal with that than wait for my check to arrive by mail or ha e to drive to the bank to go cash it.

And for some reason 80% of the women who work at the local banks near me look like models. I mean they are incredibly gorgeous. maked me wonder why they are working at a bank lol

Lightbringer
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Usually, places will have their payroll account at the nearest bank, or at least walking distance in the same neighborhood, so I never had any problem either going during lunch or whenever. You wouldn’t even need an account there to cash the check that’s drawn from that bank.

(‘Though nowadays, you’d need to supply a thumbprint, retina scan, stool sample, etc., to be able to cash a check.)

Personally, I’d rather get cash in an envelope…

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Grigio
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JasonWW wrote:
The 7135 is a current regulator. It allows 0.350 amps to flow (some do 0.380, but are not as common). Those drivers typically have room for 8 of these chips. It’s possible the other side has 4 chips making it a 6 chip driver, not 5. We don’t know for sure, though.

Another way to test is to measure the current draw through the battery. A 5×7135 driver should draw 1.75A. A 6×7135 driver should draw 2.1A.

Here are both sides of the same driver with 8 chips attached.

. (Picture removed from quote by me – Grigio)

Thanks Jason! I managed to get the pill(?) out by using circlip pliers but I have no idea how to seperate the driver board from the rest, so it went back in. (and the light still works!)

A neighbour had a DMM, watched the instructions on YouTube and measured the current draw a few times. A mixed bag really, as the numbers kept fluctuating quite a lot (because of moving a bit?), sometimes stopping at a number, pausing, then slowly creeping up in increasements of +1 until it stopped at about +15 from where it initially paused. Here the results:

1st. time: between 940 and 1060 mAh
2nd. time: between 945 and 1131 mAh
3rd. time: between 973 and 1119 mAh
4th. time: between 977 and 1128 mAh

So I’m really no wiser, because I have no idea how accurate that DMM (UNI-T UT33A+) was. 1060mAh seems about right if I look at the specs of a 7135*3 (1050 mAh), 1100+mAh might be a bit enthousiastic reading of the meter. Used battery was a fully charged Shockli IMR 18650 3.7V 3600 mAh.

Maybe somebody with a similar Convoy S2 Grey 7135*5 Driver 365nm Purple UV can chime in, open his/hers and have a look and tell me what he/she sees. As said before, I’m just curious, learning and trying to understand. Smile

Grigio
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California_Prepper wrote:
Who doesn’t have direct deposit these days? My employer actually requires it. From my understanding, it’s expensive for an employer to actually cut a check.

This is rural Thailand where labourers earn a meagre 300 Thai baht a day, the equivalent of just under 10 US dollars. It’s handed out in cash as many of these workers are neighbours from the village and/or have no means of transport, and if they already have a bicycle or a moped, the bank (and ATM) is several kilometers away.

So yes, at the end of the week 300 Thb x days worked (usually 6) goes in a small envelope and is mostly already spent before they even receive it.

I know, old days for many or us but here still standard practice.

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Grigio wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
The 7135 is a current regulator. It allows 0.350 amps to flow (some do 0.380, but are not as common). Those drivers typically have room for 8 of these chips. It’s possible the other side has 4 chips making it a 6 chip driver, not 5. We don’t know for sure, though.

Another way to test is to measure the current draw through the battery. A 5×7135 driver should draw 1.75A. A 6×7135 driver should draw 2.1A.

Here are both sides of the same driver with 8 chips attached.

. (Picture removed from quote by me – Grigio)

Thanks Jason! I managed to get the pill(?) out by using circlip pliers but I have no idea how to seperate the driver board from the rest, so it went back in. (and the light still works!)

A neighbour had a DMM, watched the instructions on YouTube and measured the current draw a few times. A mixed bag really, as the numbers kept fluctuating quite a lot (because of moving a bit?), sometimes stopping at a number, pausing, then slowly creeping up in increasements of +1 until it stopped at about +15 from where it initially paused. Here the results:

1st. time: between 940 and 1060 mAh
2nd. time: between 945 and 1131 mAh
3rd. time: between 973 and 1119 mAh
4th. time: between 977 and 1128 mAh

So I’m really no wiser, because I have no idea how accurate that DMM (UNI-T UT33A+) was. 1060mAh seems about right if I look at the specs of a 7135*3 (1050 mAh), 1100+mAh might be a bit enthousiastic reading of the meter. Used battery was a fully charged Shockli IMR 18650 3.7V 3600 mAh.

Maybe somebody with a similar Convoy S2 Grey 7135*5 Driver 365nm Purple UV can chime in, open his/hers and have a look and tell me what he/she sees. As said before, I’m just curious, learning and trying to understand. Smile


To remove the driver you need a beefy solder iron because you need to heat up the entire pill and melt the 2 solder blobs. Then you add the solder blobs back when you put it back in.

I really wouldn’t worry too much about the output. They would not try to cheat you by using less 7135 chips as they cost almost nothing. Those UV leds can not handle much power anyway. As long as it’s bright enough for your usage, I would be fine.

It’s the UV led that costs some money. The 390nm/395nm leds are much cheaper and unfortunately some companies will try and pass them off as 365nm. You might want to verify the led and not worry about the driver.

I have a Convoy S2+ UV light and it is only .700 amp (uses no filter over led) and is plenty bright. I wonder why you are using so much power? Maybe they used a different led? Does yours use a lens filter?

Again, if it works for you, that’s all that really matters.

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Grigio
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Thank you, JasonWW!

Nah, the quest for what type of driver is used stops here… Up till now I could change a battery, configure different modes (not this model as it’s just on or off) and all of a sudden there’s strange tools and a DMM on the table, and now I need to find a solder iron, beefy if possible? Nah, enough…

It is what it is, a handy small UV flashlight and I will probably never ever look into the ‘innards’ of it again. Yes, the output is more than enough (she says) and to be honest, when the light was lying in pieces in front of me, it took me a while to realise I was also looking at the LED, tiny as it is. No idea about the specs. But thanks again for the instructions.

slmjim
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Why are there no protected flat top 18650's?

 

slmjim

Great... Carnac the Magnificent tells me I just signed up for yet another expensive hobby.

Smile! It makes others wonder what you've been up to.

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slmjim wrote:

Why are there no protected flat top 18650’s?


 


slmjim


Hmmm, maybe flat top “caps” are hard to find? Even button top caps are tricky to find if your looking to buy a pack of them.

A possible solution is to find a protected cell with the circuitry on the bottom, negative end. Then it is just a matter of removing the button top and adding a new wrapper. I don’t know if the total length is much shorter, though. Maybe at least 1mm shorter?


.

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hIKARInoob
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slmjim wrote:

Why are there no protected flat top 18650’s?


 


slmjim

I was surprised a few weeks ago to discover they actually exist: https://www.nkon.nl/rechargeable/18650-size/keeppower-18650-3500-li-ion-...

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I’ve got my new XTAR PB2. I’ve noticed this ongoing theme; after using it to charge my phone, it’ll say something like “75%” battery life. After unplugging my phone, it’ll jump to 68%, or something of the like. I think this is from voltage shenanigans, but why exactly does this happen?

Similarly, when the powerbank gets low (say 30% and lower), when I activate the screen on my phone the powerbank seems to just shut off. The screen LED disappears, it stops charging, etc. After unplugging it and plugging it back in, it begins charging again, with the same situation as before – a lower percentage. I’m guessing this is once again voltage shenanigans; the phone voltage increases under load, it messes with the charging, and things get all funky. What’s going on? Is this bad for the phone/battery?

Lastly, how much efficiency loss should I expect? Let’s say I have 4000 mAh worth of battery in my PBS2, and my phone has a 4000mAh battery. In an ideal world, 1% on the PB would be 1% on the phone, but obviously that’s not the case. Is it closer to 1% on the PB = .75% on the phone?

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Protected flat top seem to be more popular 3+ years ago, but are not seen so much these days.

I don’t know if you can really call it a “flat top” since it has a wide, but short button top. They have to connect the strap to the top electrode somehow. If they did not add a cap of some sort the end would not be flat. So they use whatever cap they can. You end up seeing wide and narrow button top and with slightly different heights. It is all a mess with no real standards. Sick

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Parallax wrote:
I’ve got my new XTAR PB2. I’ve noticed this ongoing theme; after using it to charge my phone, it’ll say something like “75%” battery life. After unplugging my phone, it’ll jump to 68%, or something of the like. I think this is from voltage shenanigans, but why exactly does this happen?

It is trying to predict battery life based on calculations of voltage and load. This is very hard to do with accuracy. You can not expect good accuracy for predictions.

Parallax wrote:
Similarly, when the powerbank gets low (say 30% and lower), when I activate the screen on my phone the powerbank seems to just shut off. The screen LED disappears, it stops charging, etc. After unplugging it and plugging it back in, it begins charging again, with the same situation as before – a lower percentage. I’m guessing this is once again voltage shenanigans; the phone voltage increases under load, it messes with the charging, and things get all funky. What’s going on? Is this bad for the phone/battery?

This stuff is very specific to the PB2. It has it’s circuitry designed a certain way. You’d need to ask the Xtar people these specific questions.

Parallax wrote:
Lastly, how much efficiency loss should I expect? Let’s say I have 4000 mAh worth of battery in my PBS2, and my phone has a 4000mAh battery. In an ideal world, 1% on the PB would be 1% on the phone, but obviously that’s not the case. Is it closer to 1% on the PB = .75% on the phone?

Hard to say exactly what the efficiency is, but I would not think it’s in the single digits of efficiency, but I really don’t know. Since the PB2 can output 5v from a single 4.2 volt battery it has to have a boost driver of some sort. Boost drivers do produce a loss in efficiency. I’m trying to decipher HKJ’s review and it looks like on battery power alone the efficiency starts at 90% and slowly drops to 85%. This sounds about right to me.

Also, remember that most batteries are rated for capacity by measuring all the way down to like 2.8 volt or less. The PB2 powerbank only puts out 5v from battery only until it’s batteries are down to 3.2 volt. So if you are using two 2000mah batteries you will not get the full 4000mah out of them (assuming they are wired in series, maybe not, but you basically can think of it as 4000mah). How much capacity you actually get will be based on the discharge curve of the particular batteries you are using. Some drop like a rock after 3.2v and some keep going a long time after 3.2v. I would probably use the newest, best high capacity cells I could, like Samsung 35E or equivalent in order to get the most out of the powerbank.

Sorry I can’t answer too exactly, but hopefully it helps a little.

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atobe
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How come some of you guys buy/have the 2 or 3 of the same lights?

ᕦ(ò_óˇ)ᕤ

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You gotta ax yourself, “Would I be happy if my one’n‘only got lost, stolen, broken, etc.?”.

If not, you get a spare. Or two. Or three.

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atobe wrote:
How come some of you guys buy/have the 2 or 3 of the same lights?

In the case of lights with different emitters, because they perform very differently but the owners probably like all the other aspects of those lights.

Other people get them in different colors, metals, etc. which I don’t get but that kind of “collector” mindset is common for lots of hobbies.

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Lightbringer wrote:
You gotta ax yourself, “Would I be happy if my one’n‘only got lost, stolen, broken, etc.?”.

If not, you get a spare. Or two. Or three.

Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up For the ones that really matter
polarweis
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Will I be able to put a stb90 gen 2 in my convoy L6?

"It wouldn’t be so bright if there wasn’t a shadow every once in a while." - Jason Mraz

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polarweis wrote:
stb90

Is that the correct name? Search turns up nothing.
I think DB Custom was building a light with similar emitter, but I cant find it.

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Why do we park on a driveway and drive on a parkway?

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

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Lightbringer wrote:
Transpo. LOL

SBT-90.

https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/sbt-90-series/40429


Okay, I was confusing it with CFT-90. That is the hard one to mod and is what DB Custom is using.

SBT-90 can be bought on 20mm star and is 3v so should be simple to put in L6, right?

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So I bought a used Sofirn SF11
in the classifieds here. turns out the emitter came off its base, and rattling loose in the reflector.

Where would I find a replacement online: an emitter with base plate, please.

Looks like the previous owner used some phillip screws to secure the base—with a tilt.

Thanks in advance if you choose to reply.

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Starkm32 wrote:
So I bought a used Sofirn SF11
in the classifieds here. turns out the emitter came off its base, and rattling loose in the reflector.

Where would I find a replacement online: an emitter with base plate, please.

Looks like the previous owner used some phillip screws to secure the base—with a tilt.

Thanks in advance if you choose to reply.


You mean the led came off the metal disc? You can buy replacements if you can solder. Where are you located?

You can buy this for $6.50 plus shipping from MTN E.

You need to know the diameter to order the right one.

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Lightbringer
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JasonWW wrote:
SBT-90 can be bought on 20mm star and is 3v so should be simple to put in L6, right?

Afaict it only comes in CW, dunno if that takes it out of the running. LOL

It’s good up to 9A from what I quickly recall from the sheet, so hopefully it wouldn’t cook itself to death.

So… yeah, looks like it should work fine.

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Starkm32
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Am in Mass.

Don’t want to think of all the possibilities, which LED will the SF11
Take.

It’s a simple matter of desoldering the two leads, and resoldering the new
On once one get the proper LED. The person used two Phillip screws to anchor the Led plate.

The two screws are a bit lopsided. A hack job, I guess….

And the LED became detached….

Would appreciate the part #, if someone is in the know.

TIA.

JasonWW
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Starkm32 wrote:
Am in Mass.

Don’t want to think of all the possibilities, which LED will the SF11
Take.

It’s a simple matter of desoldering the two leads, and resoldering the new
On once one get the proper LED. The person used two Phillip screws to anchor the Led plate.

The two screws are a bit lopsided. A hack job, I guess….

And the LED became detached….

Would appreciate the part #, if someone is in the know.

TIA.


Mass is Massachusetts, USA? I would order from MTN. The SF11 comes with an XPL stock. You can choose your color, CW, NW, etc… You just need to find the diameter, like 16mm, 22mm, etc…
The screws are probably factory, they are there to keep the MCPCB from rotating.

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Yes, Taxachusetts.

Thanks for the info. Screws seem to be from the local hardware. Designed
For countersinking.

Turn of events is forcing me to delve deeper into the realm of flashaholic tinkering
Than I was prepared to do. LOL

But it is a shame to deep six an otherwise working light. Beer

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