[♛ FreemeGB] Fireflies PL47 Gen II 4*XP-L/ Nichia/ SST20 Hi CRI 21700 Right Angle Flashlight - ALIVE

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BurningPlayd0h
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Tom Tom wrote:
Expecting to put an 18650 into a 21-70 torch is just asking for trouble. That’s a 5mm mis-match in length. Even on paper.

At least an 18650 to 26650 adapter is easily done, and respectable in an engineering sense.

Sooo… a 26650 > 18650 spacer is easy but this conversion isn’t for some reason?

The simple solution is to understand the actual dimensions of your batteries before putting them in lights. Since these li-ion cells weren’t ever even really designed to be used loose (and certainly not with varying sizes due to protection circuits, button tops, etc.) that would seem to be the bare minimum of preparedness to me.

I’ve used the included 21700>18650 spacers in two e-cig mods with no issues at all for months until I got some 20700 and 21700 cells.

Nite Shadow wrote:
I bought Samsung 50E’s and you have to tighten down hard before the light works.

If you have to tighten it down hard to make contact… why do you think it would be wearing on the springs? Sounds like the cells you have are slightly under spec and you have to get the springs closer by tightening before it makes good contact.

The alternative would be that the tailcap isn’t making good connection with the contact area on the battery tube itself but that would be easy to test by trying it with different cells/spacer + 18650 cell.

Are you sure the o-rings on both ends of the battery tube are still in the correct grooves? I had a similar issue with my Q8 when I got it because they had been pushed into the wrong one when first assembling the light with batteries.

lohtse
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P33 wrote:
Does Xtar headband fit PL47 though?
Can you please check and let us know?

xtar h3 and nitecore hc30 headbands fit perfectly.

Caving, Climbing, Mountaineering, Kayaking, Diving etc any time anywhere!!! If you in the UK let me know and lets Play!
Current lighting
Olight X7R,M2R,S1 Baton,S10R Baton 3m,S2R 2, I1R EOS,SofirnC8T,Lenser P7'2,Lenser P14,BLF A6,Fenix HL50,HM50R,HL55,CL05,HL05,CL09,CL25,Nitecore HC30,HC65,NU12,NU32,Astolux K1,Petzl E-light,Tikka Xp3,XP3LED,DUO,Atomlight,Xtar Warboys H3,PL47 Manker E03H and many Chinese ones

Nite Shadow
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lohtse wrote:
surely these headbands would have been FAR better

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-Headlamp-Headlight-Belt-Strap-Tape-...

This one looks very similar to the Skilhunt H03 headband

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lionheart_2281 wrote:
I like the look of this one:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Headband-head-Belt-head-Strap-Mount-Hold...LED-Flashlight-Torch-Headlamp/32826423722.html?spm=2114.10010108.1000014.3.37353c53Ux5Fzb&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.13338.112235.000000000000000&scm_id=1007.13338.112235.000000000000000&scm-url=1007.13338.112235.000000000000000&pvid=716ab87e-26c1-49da-aee9-3a41a9543879

Might get it if the provided one is crap

This one is closest to the JetBeam HC20 design. I just ordered 6 of them.

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BurningPlayd0h wrote:
Tom Tom wrote:
Expecting to put an 18650 into a 21-70 torch is just asking for trouble. That’s a 5mm mis-match in length. Even on paper.

At least an 18650 to 26650 adapter is easily done, and respectable in an engineering sense.

Sooo… a 26650 > 18650 spacer is easy but this conversion isn’t for some reason?

The simple solution is to understand the actual dimensions of your batteries before putting them in lights. Since these li-ion cells weren’t ever even really designed to be used loose (and certainly not with varying sizes due to protection circuits, button tops, etc.) that would seem to be the bare minimum of preparedness to me.

I’ve used the included 21700>18650 spacers in two e-cig mods with no issues at all for months until I got some 20700 and 21700 cells.

Nite Shadow wrote:
I bought Samsung 50E’s and you have to tighten down hard before the light works.

If you have to tighten it down hard to make contact… why do you think it would be wearing on the springs? Sounds like the cells you have are slightly under spec and you have to get the springs closer by tightening before it makes good contact.

The alternative would be that the tailcap isn’t making good connection with the contact area on the battery tube itself but that would be easy to test by trying it with different cells/spacer + 18650 cell.

Are you sure the o-rings on both ends of the battery tube are still in the correct grooves? I had a similar issue with my Q8 when I got it because they had been pushed into the wrong one when first assembling the light with batteries.

Of the 100’s of lights that I have, this one is the only one I have to really crank down on to complete the circuit. Like I said, at least it works. I do love it but also want it to last. Tried with a short flat top 30Q. With the adapter, too long could complete circuit. Same battery without adapter still needed to crank it hard all the way on to get a circuit. Seems to have something to do with battery tube section making contact with the bottom inside of the tail cap. 50E already showing circular scrap marks from the spring on the negative end. Both O-rings are and have been in correct slots.

Next might try something like a copper O-ring with outer diameter equal to inside diameter of end cap. Not even sure that has a chance of helping. Fine, thin aluminum V-shaped threads won’t last long doing what I have to do to get the light to work. Might ask FF to send another tail. They just shipped my second PL47, with magnet separate this time and second ROT66 a few days ago. Preordered a E07 today so may ask Jack to send another tailcap with that order. ‘Nuf complaining…love the light and has a great 3 year wanrranty. Just going to enjoy it and try to stay in the moment!

P33
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Are threads really V-shaped on this flashlight?

BTW looks like I might get mine before the weekend if I’m lucky enough.

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leaftye wrote:
BurningPlayd0h wrote:
leaftye wrote:
It’s still kind of a problem. If it can’t fit a protected battery in that adapter with the brass cap, it may have an issue with protected 21700’s.

Here’s one protected 21700 that might not work.

https://www.illumn.com/21700-acebeam-imr21700np-510a-5100mah-high-discha...

Not many people were expecting them to fit, I stil ldont really understand the desire to use them in a quad FET with LVP thats almost guaranteed to trip the protection circuit anyway?

It would be great to know what dimension of cells fit, but I have plenty of lights that require specfic batteries, whether size/max drain/whatever.

We should know better. Lohtse should’ve known better. Look what already happened. It’s only going to get worse when he distributes those 10 lights to his buddies, and then get much worse if this is sold on places like Banggood. I’m not sure what the other post about 18650’s is about. It shouldn’t have to fit them without an adapter. Make the acceptable range between 70-75mm, at least if those springs will accommodate a 5mm range. That’s going to require using the adapter, with brass button, for most 18650’s, including protected 18650’s. Protected and unprotected 21700’s work just fine. Problem solved for everyone.

I don’t think this is a big enough problem to make a huge stink about it for this first batch. Refining it before sending it out to a distributor is a must though.

Firstly why would I have know better? Already stated I have never used the adpater before, secondly we have not bought 10 lights I have a REQUIREMENT for 10 lights for clients and I put the batteries in anyway. We have TWO lights and both batteries had been damaged when myself and partner placed the batteries in the adapter when they arrived. As to other post about 18650 you can use and 18650 button top in the PL47 with out the adapter and theres is little to know movement. Our intention in the end is to use 21700’s we have waiting for them to arrive.. But as they are also able to run using 18650 which we have a shed load of we intend to use them until the 21700’s arrive..

Our issues are the headband thats being sold with these lights not being fit for purpose and that there was no indication as to what should or should not be done with the adapter… The Other issue we have now come a cross have also been communicated direct to firefly….

Caving, Climbing, Mountaineering, Kayaking, Diving etc any time anywhere!!! If you in the UK let me know and lets Play!
Current lighting
Olight X7R,M2R,S1 Baton,S10R Baton 3m,S2R 2, I1R EOS,SofirnC8T,Lenser P7'2,Lenser P14,BLF A6,Fenix HL50,HM50R,HL55,CL05,HL05,CL09,CL25,Nitecore HC30,HC65,NU12,NU32,Astolux K1,Petzl E-light,Tikka Xp3,XP3LED,DUO,Atomlight,Xtar Warboys H3,PL47 Manker E03H and many Chinese ones

P33
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Well, this is not really a product meant for a mass market, it’s not foolproof like for example Petzl headlamps. I guess that’s why leaftye is saying that you should know better. Like others have said, the variety of dimensions and shapes of all of the ‘18650’ cells on the market makes it almost impossible to make an adapter for them. It is designed for 21700 and you have to always be extra cautious while performing such equilibristics Wink I do understand your disappointment but these are issues that might always happen, especially going for first batch of an innovative products from tiny companies. There is no standardization and manufacturer did recommend to use specific 21700 cells. You did put Olight cell, while build around 18650 cell, not really fitting dimensions. It will just never be as simple as poping three AAA batteries..
PL47 was designed as a right angle torch primarily, NOT as a headlamp. It was after our requests in this thread that Jack decided to add that unfortunate headstrap. I was expecting it to be crap looking at the pictures but I’m ready to experiment with other straps I have or even look for one that will fit well. We can obviously blame Fireflies for not checking it (what he defo should do) but again – it was clear from the beginning that it was an afterthought and this flashlight was not marketed as a headlamp.

lohtse
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P33 wrote:
Well, this is not really a product meant for a mass market, it’s not foolproof like for example Petzl headlamps. I guess that’s why leaftye is saying that you should know better. Like others have said, the variety of dimensions and shapes of all of the ‘18650’ cells on the market makes it almost impossible to make an adapter for them. It is designed for 21700 and you have to always be extra cautious while performing such equilibristics Wink I do understand your disappointment but these are issues that might always happen, especially going for first batch of an innovative products from tiny companies. There is no standardization and manufacturer did recommend to use specific 21700 cells. You did put Olight cell, while build around 18650 cell, not really fitting dimensions. It will just never be as simple as poping three AAA batteries.. PL47 was designed as a right angle torch primarily, NOT as a headlamp. It was after our requests in this thread that Jack decided to add that unfortunate headstrap. I was expecting it to be crap looking at the pictures but I’m ready to experiment with other straps I have or even look for one that will fit well. We can obviously blame Fireflies for not checking it (what he defo should do) but again – it was clear from the beginning that it was an afterthought and this flashlight was not marketed as a headlamp.

And so enduth the lesson…And lesson learned……

But still he could have done better on headband.. Took me 5mins if that to fi d one suitable…And cheaper..

Caving, Climbing, Mountaineering, Kayaking, Diving etc any time anywhere!!! If you in the UK let me know and lets Play!
Current lighting
Olight X7R,M2R,S1 Baton,S10R Baton 3m,S2R 2, I1R EOS,SofirnC8T,Lenser P7'2,Lenser P14,BLF A6,Fenix HL50,HM50R,HL55,CL05,HL05,CL09,CL25,Nitecore HC30,HC65,NU12,NU32,Astolux K1,Petzl E-light,Tikka Xp3,XP3LED,DUO,Atomlight,Xtar Warboys H3,PL47 Manker E03H and many Chinese ones

Mildlyangryjohnny
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P33 wrote:
PL47 was designed as a right angle torch primarily, NOT as a headlamp. It was after our requests in this thread that Jack decided to add that unfortunate headstrap. I was expecting it to be crap looking at the pictures but I’m ready to experiment with other straps I have or even look for one that will fit well. We can obviously blame Fireflies for not checking it (what he defo should do) but again – it was clear from the beginning that it was an afterthought and this flashlight was not marketed as a headlamp.

Ha. A gun could be marketed as a pointing device, but it’s still going to be a gun.

In my opinion, a right angle flashlight of this diminutive size makes for a perfect headlamp. Has for many years. Even the old 2xC, 2xD military right angle lights from years ago, were attached to helmets—as headlamps. Just because, the headstrap was ill chosen and maybe not considered—prior to blf folks asking, “so where is the head strap—this looks like a headlamp.” does not change the fact that for a majority of the folks purchasing this lil’gadget are gonna find a way to strap it to their skulls.

The only real issue i see is whether or not we’re going to light our heads on fire.
P33
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Yeah, you’ve got a point. I guess that’s the core of angle lights popularity, I also never understood people carrying these lights in their pockets on daily Wink

Speaking about helmets I remember that Armytek makes bombproof hard hat helmet mounts. Maybe that would be a good bet you lohtse?

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leaftye wrote:
Mildlyangryjohnny wrote:
The only real issue i see is whether or not we’re going to light our heads on fire.

If heads don’t burn, it won’t be for lack of trying!

Big Smile Big Smile Big Smile Big Smile Big Smile Big Smile Big Smile Big Smile Big Smile Big Smile

Caving, Climbing, Mountaineering, Kayaking, Diving etc any time anywhere!!! If you in the UK let me know and lets Play!
Current lighting
Olight X7R,M2R,S1 Baton,S10R Baton 3m,S2R 2, I1R EOS,SofirnC8T,Lenser P7'2,Lenser P14,BLF A6,Fenix HL50,HM50R,HL55,CL05,HL05,CL09,CL25,Nitecore HC30,HC65,NU12,NU32,Astolux K1,Petzl E-light,Tikka Xp3,XP3LED,DUO,Atomlight,Xtar Warboys H3,PL47 Manker E03H and many Chinese ones

lohtse
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P33 wrote:
Yeah, you’ve got a point. I guess that’s the core of angle lights popularity, I also never understood people carrying these lights in their pockets on daily Wink

Speaking about helmets I remember that Armytek makes bombproof hard hat helmet mounts. Maybe that would be a good bet you lohtse?


any links?

Caving, Climbing, Mountaineering, Kayaking, Diving etc any time anywhere!!! If you in the UK let me know and lets Play!
Current lighting
Olight X7R,M2R,S1 Baton,S10R Baton 3m,S2R 2, I1R EOS,SofirnC8T,Lenser P7'2,Lenser P14,BLF A6,Fenix HL50,HM50R,HL55,CL05,HL05,CL09,CL25,Nitecore HC30,HC65,NU12,NU32,Astolux K1,Petzl E-light,Tikka Xp3,XP3LED,DUO,Atomlight,Xtar Warboys H3,PL47 Manker E03H and many Chinese ones

P33
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lohtse
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P33 wrote:
https://www.flashaholics.co.uk/products/armytek-ahm-02-hard-hat-mount.html

saddly would not work but thank you for the heads up!

Caving, Climbing, Mountaineering, Kayaking, Diving etc any time anywhere!!! If you in the UK let me know and lets Play!
Current lighting
Olight X7R,M2R,S1 Baton,S10R Baton 3m,S2R 2, I1R EOS,SofirnC8T,Lenser P7'2,Lenser P14,BLF A6,Fenix HL50,HM50R,HL55,CL05,HL05,CL09,CL25,Nitecore HC30,HC65,NU12,NU32,Astolux K1,Petzl E-light,Tikka Xp3,XP3LED,DUO,Atomlight,Xtar Warboys H3,PL47 Manker E03H and many Chinese ones

Mildlyangryjohnny
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lohtse wrote:

any links?

I dont have a link, but i have an idea. Depends on how handy you are, though. Gotta do some macguyvering.

I made a tripod mount for a thrunite tn36ut a couple years back, out of some schedule 40 pvc plumbing pipe, or electrical conduit—i dont remember. I think for a helmet the same theory could apply. For the pl47 to make a helmet mount: (just a working theory dont know what materials you would have handy across the pond).

Anyway, the pl47 is 24mm ~1” middle part—our attachment point. I would head over to my local plumbing supply/ home improvement shop with the light and see what pipe it will just barely slide into (minus tail cap) you dont really want it to slide in though. It has to be just a pubic hair or two smaller than the flashlights battery tube. theoretically this will be 1”/24mm id rigid tubing. Purchase the cheapest amount you can say 6-12”. Cut this to length so it will fit between the right angle and the tail cap minus 3/8-1/2”. Now you have a short little section of tube.

Now you have to make 2 longitudinal cuts (along the length) so that the tube will look like an extruded “C”. When i did the tn36 i almost cut it in half less just a little bit—so not quite cut in half maybe half diamter plus 5/16-3/8”. Adjust for size to fit the pl47. If the tube originally was just a hair small and you made the c-shape it should just about snap into place. Keep fussing with it till it does. Drill 2 holes thru the c tube along the length and thru the helmet. Attach with aluminum rivets or countersunk stainless screws with nut and loctite/split washer or locknut on back side, grind off excess screw/bolt. If using rivets you will have to make a recessed hole and then a smaller thru hole. In either case you want the metal fastener to be lower than flush so it doesnt scar the pl47 tube. This should allow you to turn light top to bottom and hold it firmly enough that it wont get knocked out by rough caving activities. I would finish by rounding over all sharp edges with a file or sandpaper. Alternatively, a few holes in the c tube and some stout zipties could also work in a pinch if your tubing is too thin to recess the fastener heads. The hardest part will be finding rigid tubing that has the right inner diameter. The idea is to be just smaller than the light. This will keep it clamped on tight. But still be able to spin the light. Kind of like a spring clamp.

Material cost <$1.00. I should think for a helmet this would work great. It will not be as great for a strap, too beefy imo.

For my tn36ut lacking a 1/4-20 threaded hole this was an outstanding solution to get it on a tripod.

Hope this helps.

Now that i think of it you could probably just use zipties. 4 holes into your helmet though and 2 thick zipties. Just ziptie the light straight to your helmet. You would still be able to spin it up and down. Snip’em off when you need to. The c-tubing method would be easier to take the light off the helmet though.

DISCLAIMER: this is just an idea. You will have to use your judgment whether this is worth your effort, skills and money. I am not responsible if it comes out wonky. I can say that the one i made came out awesome.

Dirt
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I have 2 armytec wizard mounts. Softish rubber, should work for my purposes. I agree, signing up for the 1st edition of these group buys is asking for disappointment. I knew better, but this style of light is my favorite format, saw the specs and started drooling……

lohtse
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Mildlyangryjohnny wrote:
lohtse wrote:

any links?

I dont have a link, but i have an idea. Depends on how handy you are, though. Gotta do some macguyvering.

I made a tripod mount for a thrunite tn36ut a couple years back, out of some schedule 40 pvc plumbing pipe, or electrical conduit—i dont remember. I think for a helmet the same theory could apply. For the pl47 to make a helmet mount: (just a working theory dont know what materials you would have handy across the pond).

Anyway, the pl47 is 24mm ~1” middle part—our attachment point. I would head over to my local plumbing supply/ home improvement shop with the light and see what pipe it will just barely slide into (minus tail cap) you dont really want it to slide in though. It has to be just a pubic hair or two smaller than the flashlights battery tube. theoretically this will be 1”/24mm id rigid tubing. Purchase the cheapest amount you can say 6-12”. Cut this to length so it will fit between the right angle and the tail cap minus 3/8-1/2”. Now you have a short little section of tube.

Now you have to make 2 longitudinal cuts (along the length) so that the tube will look like an extruded “C”. When i did the tn36 i almost cut it in half less just a little bit—so not quite cut in half maybe half diamter plus 5/16-3/8”. Adjust for size to fit the pl47. If the tube originally was just a hair small and you made the c-shape it should just about snap into place. Keep fussing with it till it does. Drill 2 holes thru the c tube along the length and thru the helmet. Attach with aluminum rivets or countersunk stainless screws with nut and loctite/split washer or locknut on back side, grind off excess screw/bolt. If using rivets you will have to make a recessed hole and then a smaller thru hole. In either case you want the metal fastener to be lower than flush so it doesnt scar the pl47 tube. This should allow you to turn light top to bottom and hold it firmly enough that it wont get knocked out by rough caving activities. I would finish by rounding over all sharp edges with a file or sandpaper. Alternatively, a few holes in the c tube and some stout zipties could also work in a pinch if your tubing is too thin to recess the fastener heads. The hardest part will be finding rigid tubing that has the right inner diameter. The idea is to be just smaller than the light. This will keep it clamped on tight. But still be able to spin the light. Kind of like a spring clamp.

Material cost <$1.00. I should think for a helmet this would work great. It will not be as great for a strap, too beefy imo.

For my tn36ut lacking a 1/4-20 threaded hole this was an outstanding solution to get it on a tripod.

Hope this helps.

Now that i think of it you could probably just use zipties. 4 holes into your helmet though and 2 thick zipties. Just ziptie the light straight to your helmet. You would still be able to spin it up and down. Snip’em off when you need to. The c-tubing method would be easier to take the light off the helmet though.

DISCLAIMER: this is just an idea. You will have to use your judgment whether this is worth your effort, skills and money. I am not responsible if it comes out wonky. I can say that the one i made came out awesome.


Have order new headbands and in the mean time will use my Xtar/Nitecore bands… Never liked the idea of a headlight being perminetly attached to a helmet as that just does not allow the flexiblity of any light… The PL47 is a great light so being able to actually use it in any situation is very important….. And soon as Jackie sends the replacement caps I can actual use it on my bergan or stick it in a pocket next to a compass…. Once the issues are resolved then all will be well…

Caving, Climbing, Mountaineering, Kayaking, Diving etc any time anywhere!!! If you in the UK let me know and lets Play!
Current lighting
Olight X7R,M2R,S1 Baton,S10R Baton 3m,S2R 2, I1R EOS,SofirnC8T,Lenser P7'2,Lenser P14,BLF A6,Fenix HL50,HM50R,HL55,CL05,HL05,CL09,CL25,Nitecore HC30,HC65,NU12,NU32,Astolux K1,Petzl E-light,Tikka Xp3,XP3LED,DUO,Atomlight,Xtar Warboys H3,PL47 Manker E03H and many Chinese ones

Mildlyangryjohnny
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lohtse wrote:

… Never liked the idea of a headlight being perminetly attached to a helmet as that just does not allow the flexiblity of any light… The PL47 is a great light so being able to actually use it in any situation is very important…..

Maybe i didnt illustrate the concept well. The flashlight is not permanently attached, the pvc mounting c-tube—that you would fabricate— would be. The idea is that you fabricate a mount that your light snaps into and out of with ease. I wish i knew how to do pictures here i could show you a picture. It is super uncomplicated in practice, the best designs are usually simple. Works the way a snap button on a pair of jeans works. Snaps in, snaps out. Easy peasy. One minute you have a flashlight on your helmet the next you put it in your pocket.

However, it sounds like you have another solution so no worries.

In fact, my proposal works the way the crap one they sent you was supposed to work. Just better—if made properly.

I make things. Almost all of my ideas are awesome. And i am usually right about everything.

Haaaaa. Big Smile

lohtse
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Mildlyangryjohnny wrote:
lohtse wrote:

… Never liked the idea of a headlight being perminetly attached to a helmet as that just does not allow the flexiblity of any light… The PL47 is a great light so being able to actually use it in any situation is very important…..

Maybe i didnt illustrate the concept well. The flashlight is not permanently attached, the pvc mounting c-tube—that you would fabricate— would be. The idea is that you fabricate a mount that your light snaps into and out of with ease. I wish i knew how to do pictures here i could show you a picture. It is super uncomplicated in practice, the best designs are usually simple. Works the way a snap button on a pair of jeans works. Snaps in, snaps out. Easy peasy. One minute you have a flashlight on your helmet the next you put it in your pocket.

However, it sounds like you have another solution so no worries.

In fact, my proposal works the way the crap one they sent you was supposed to work. Just better—if made properly.

I make things. Almost all of my ideas are awesome. And i am usually right about everything.

Haaaaa. Big Smile


We use very different helmets to the one the attachment is on hence not working also drilling holes into a helmet is not always a good thing… Anyway having a headband that works is what matters..

As to making things We hear you bith me and my partner are always tinkering either in the workshop or on the 3d printer etc…Just lots of Fun….

Caving, Climbing, Mountaineering, Kayaking, Diving etc any time anywhere!!! If you in the UK let me know and lets Play!
Current lighting
Olight X7R,M2R,S1 Baton,S10R Baton 3m,S2R 2, I1R EOS,SofirnC8T,Lenser P7'2,Lenser P14,BLF A6,Fenix HL50,HM50R,HL55,CL05,HL05,CL09,CL25,Nitecore HC30,HC65,NU12,NU32,Astolux K1,Petzl E-light,Tikka Xp3,XP3LED,DUO,Atomlight,Xtar Warboys H3,PL47 Manker E03H and many Chinese ones

d_t_a
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Didn’t realize that the PL47 comes in 3 sections: the head, the body and the tailcap.

pinholes for programming, but they’re not labeled. Maybe like the Emisar D4S programming pin configuration?
deus1ex
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Is there anyone else who does not support tracking? Number is not known. I had two ordered the same day. The first arrived the day before yesterday, with this worked the tracking.

Tom Tom
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d_t_a wrote:
pinholes for programming, but they’re not labeled. Maybe like the Emisar D4S programming pin configuration? !{width:60%}https://i.imgur.com/U9Od8pm.jpg!

Best ask Lexel, I’m pretty sure it’s one of his.

If you search hard you might find an image where all (Lexel) pins are labelled. Turned around from how everyone else has been doing it for years. Simple enough to buzz it out, if you are prepared to remove the driver. But I think he would prefer to keep it a proprietary mystery, along with his derivative driver designs, and discourage others who prefer open-ness. And make proprietary programming keys that don’t fit anything else.

Though he did start openly, having been donated the idea, but that deteriorated, other, perhaps more knowledgeable people, chipped in with their own better and more flexible ideas, but were, frankly, shouted down. So we gave up. It’s not all sweetness and light here.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/62022?page=2

AFAIK TK asked Emisar to put the contacts onto the Emisar D4S. Which was great. Then a lot of bandwagon jumping went on with jockeying for position, leading, frankly, nowhere, because the most vocal also seemed to be the most dim and obstinate, and the cleverest just preferred to crack on, doing their own stuff.

Mildlyangryjohnny
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lohtse wrote:
Mildlyangryjohnny wrote:
lohtse wrote:

… Never liked the idea of a headlight being perminetly attached to a helmet as that just does not allow the flexiblity of any light… The PL47 is a great light so being able to actually use it in any situation is very important…..

Maybe i didnt illustrate the concept well. The flashlight is not permanently attached, the pvc mounting c-tube—that you would fabricate— would be. The idea is that you fabricate a mount that your light snaps into and out of with ease. I wish i knew how to do pictures here i could show you a picture. It is super uncomplicated in practice, the best designs are usually simple. Works the way a snap button on a pair of jeans works. Snaps in, snaps out. Easy peasy. One minute you have a flashlight on your helmet the next you put it in your pocket.

However, it sounds like you have another solution so no worries.

In fact, my proposal works the way the crap one they sent you was supposed to work. Just better—if made properly.

I make things. Almost all of my ideas are awesome. And i am usually right about everything.

Haaaaa. Big Smile


We use very different helmets to the one the attachment is on hence not working also drilling holes into a helmet is not always a good thing… Anyway having a headband that works is what matters..

As to making things We hear you bith me and my partner are always tinkering either in the workshop or on the 3d printer etc…Just lots of Fun….

So i whipped one up. Took 5 minutes.

Took 3 hours trying to figure out instagram. I hope a picture shows up…here:

I cant…the picture…make happen. Grrr. Will try again. I think the link part works.

I have 3 posts on instagram under mildlyangryjohnny. One is a picture form of the essay i wrote about making a headlamp mount for a helmet.

Diy helmet headlamp mount

Another post is my original—very simple tripod mount for a tn36ut:

Tn36ut diy tripod/helmet and then obviously i had to slap that on a helmet. And because that was hilarious i had to slap a TN40S on the helmet as well. Because science.

To see if something might fall on my head from a mile away

I have no idea if any of this worked or if i just made a mess. Not super keen on the typing machine gizmos. Looks like the links work.

P33
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At this point I’d trust this helmet with my noggin protection as much as I trust thicker beanie with impact protection Big Smile

BurningPlayd0h
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Anybody just… tried some tape yet?

Kalpn
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For those who need a 18650 to 20700/21700 adapter/converter.

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32924094800.html?pid=808_0000_0101&spm=a2g...

Mildlyangryjohnny
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BurningPlayd0h wrote:
Anybody just… tried some tape yet?

That’s rediculous. I cant weld tape.

TheBigLEDowski
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I think Fireflies should ship out replacement headbands that actually work.

JordanZHP
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PL47 arrived today. Overall very happy with the light, it fits in my pocket better than expected! Similar to Nite Shadow’s light 21700 50E cells require extra force when tightening. However, 30T/40T/48G cells fit perfect and do not require any extra tightening force.

I can confirm the PL47 works with the Armytek Wizard Pro headband, although not as balanced and a bit heavier. Wizard Pro with cell = 106g | PL47 with cell = 142g.

Here are a couple shots next to a D4S.

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