Help troubleshooting a mod that went wrong :( [Olight S1R Baton]

21 posts / 0 new
Last post
MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 16 min ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 4074
Location: Portugal
Help troubleshooting a mod that went wrong :( [Olight S1R Baton]

Inspire by -X3 – video disassembling the Olight S Mini, tonight I decided to open my S1R Baton through the same method. My original intention was to put some GITD tape below the TIR optic.

However, I thought I could further and decided to try an emitter swap. I got an XML2 T6-3B, put it into the Olight MCPCB and reinstalled the LED/MCPCB. However, the light started acting funny.

When pressed/hold for MoonLight mode, the ML is way way below 0.5 lumens. It is as dim as some of the the Jetbeam RRT-01 lowest levels. After ML, if I click & hold to change modes or double/triple click for turbo/strobe, there is no problem as the light acts well.

However, that press&hold for Moonlight is ruining the whole thing, as it doesn’t act as it should.
Another thing: when the light is on ML and I press the negative wire, that dim light interrupts and then get back again.

So, I need help trying to perceive what I did wrong here.
Could it be a cut wire?
Could it be a damaged component on the driver that burnt with the soldering process?

I don’t have a multimeter or DMM to help me checking what may be wrong.

Last but not least: has anyone opened the driver/pill part of an Olight S1R? If so, how did you do that?
Here (1), here (2), and here (3) I found some photos of disassembled the Jaxmnve M3, and On The Road M3 / Olight clone. However, I cannot figure out how to take the pill out …

If anyone can help me understand what might have been wrong so that the light behaves this way, I would appreciate!
Thanks in advance Thumbs Up

Gonna sleep now, I’m upset with this…I should have stayed by the GITD tape Tired Crying

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

sbslider
sbslider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 19 hours ago
Joined: 01/22/2017 - 13:41
Posts: 1301
Location: United States

press and hold for moonlight, much lower light than 0.5 lumens – maybe the characteristic of the new emitter you installed at that drive level? Maybe the wrong answer, but not knowing the emitter characteristics myself it seems like a reasonable guess.

As far as pressing the wire goes, that one sounds like an intermittent connection.

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

moderator007
moderator007's picture
Offline
Last seen: 15 min 48 sec ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 04:47
Posts: 3066
Location: North Carolina

sbslider wrote:
press and hold for moonlight, much lower light than 0.5 lumens – maybe the characteristic of the new emitter you installed at that drive level? Maybe the wrong answer, but not knowing the emitter characteristics myself it seems like a reasonable guess.

As far as pressing the wire goes, that one sounds like an intermittent connection.


That was my guess as well but he did use a XML2 which should be the same vf but different bins could make a difference in output I guess.
Its possible that you have a very small short connected maybe to the MCPCB. I have run into this when filling down MCPCB’s close to the pcb soldeing pads and one tiny loose strand of wire or copper filings touch to the copper base. Might be worth a look. I have also had problems were the wire sheathing was tore just a little where it bends over the MCPCB coming out of the pill. Without a DMM you’ll have to unsloder the wire to check. You can use this problem as a good excuse to buy a DMM. Thumbs Up
Since you didn’t mess with anything below the MCPCB it’s got to be somewhere above it.
everydaysurvivalgear
everydaysurvivalgear's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 2 min ago
Joined: 07/31/2015 - 10:25
Posts: 3462
Location: sydney australia (GMT+10)

Some times the optics spin when undoing the head which makes the LED board spin which could have torn a LED wire? Ive had it happen.

Bob_McBob
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 18 min ago
Joined: 08/14/2016 - 04:53
Posts: 522
Location: Canada

At some point you shorted a lead with a cell installed, which permanently fries the moonlight mode on the Olight drivers. I believe it also breaks the switch indicator light on the S1R II. No idea which component it damages since there isn’t anything obvious, but I’d love to know if anyone ever figures it out.

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 16 min ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 4074
Location: Portugal

Thank you for you answers so far guys Thumbs Up

sbslider wrote:
press and hold for moonlight, much lower light than 0.5 lumens – maybe the characteristic of the new emitter you installed at that drive level? Maybe the wrong answer, but not knowing the emitter characteristics myself it seems like a reasonable guess.

As far as pressing the wire goes, that one sounds like an intermittent connection.

Hum, the LED is almost similar, as I was trying to use a XML2. I went back to the original one, as I thought it might be something LED related, but it isn’t Sad
About the intermittent connection, yes it is there, and I guess it makes the led flicker somehow. Still, I’m not sure if it its a wire or a driver problem Oops

moderator007 wrote:
[…] Its possible that you have a very small short connected maybe to the MCPCB. […] I have also had problems were the wire sheathing was tore just a little where it bends over the MCPCB coming out of the pill. Without a DMM you’ll have to unsloder the wire to check. […] Since you didn’t mess with anything below the MCPCB it’s got to be somewhere above it.

Hum, the thing is, I also tried to use another MCPCB and Led (the original MCPCB of my Lumintop Tool AA with XPL-HD led) and it behaved the same way.
I am remembering that when I tried to unsolder the first time, I didn’t manage to do that at first, maybe because the solder wasn’t hot enough so I might have stayed with the iron on one of the wires for a longer period. Could it be that the heat damaged something on the driver?
About an eventual damage in the wire… it is so short now that I cannot check it properly unless I could remove the whole pill and driver…but I don’t know how to do that and surely don’t want to continue damaging the light more… Tired

everydaysurvivalgear wrote:
Some times the optics spin when undoing the head which makes the LED board spin which could have torn a LED wire? Ive had it happen.

I believe in this case the optic doesn’t have effect as it started acting funny before putting it over the led. Also they are not screwed not press fit (only the bezel is).!

Bob_McBob wrote:
At some point you shorted a lead with a cell installed, which permanently fries the moonlight mode on the Olight drivers. I believe it also breaks the switch indicator light on the S1R II. No idea which component it damages since there isn’t anything obvious, but I’d love to know if anyone ever figures it out.

When I was modding , I took the battery out to prevent shorts. When I put it back again to turn the light on, it immediately started acting like that Sad
The switch had some trouble working properly I guess, but now it seems to be working fine. As I mentioned above, I am now thinking that some component might have been damaged while I was trying to unsolder the wires the first time.
Could it be that?

Also, does anyone know how to remove the entire pill? Just in case I wanna end up ruining the light Facepalm

Thanks again for you answers Beer

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

-X3-
-X3-'s picture
Online
Last seen: 25 sec ago
Joined: 07/16/2014 - 03:28
Posts: 2715
Location: France, Angers

Did you checked BEFORE installing the board with the new LED if there was a short between + or – and the MCPCB ?
Since it’s DTP, it could have shorted the driver because the body/head of Olights is connected to the battery + !
I already fried an S1RII driver because of that, and now it has 4 modes : Ultraultralow, ultralow, verylow and not-bright-Low… a good childproof Olight Big Smile

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 16 min ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 4074
Location: Portugal
X3 wrote:
Did you checked BEFORE installing the board with the new LED if there was a short between + or – and the MCPCB ? Since it’s DTP, it could have shorted the driver because the body/head of Olights is connected to the battery + ! I already fried an S1RII driver because of that, and now it has 4 modes : Ultraultralow, ultralow, verylow and not-bright-Low… a good childproof Olight Big Smile

LOLOL, you made me laugh with those modes Big Smile Sorry for your trouble too mate Oops
Well, I didn’t check it before, no Sad
I did what I normally do on flashlights, I unsoldered and soldered normally (apart from that eventual longer time over one of the wires on the first unsoldering attempt…), and only after noticed the issue.
I never used the battery inside while doing the mod, but still it may have cause the short? Facepalm

Well, the ultraultralow mode I get may be used as presence light, leaving the light ON all night on the bedside, just like a lighted tailswitch Facepalm

EDIT: I should have stayed still and just put the GITD tape Sick

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

-X3-
-X3-'s picture
Online
Last seen: 25 sec ago
Joined: 07/16/2014 - 03:28
Posts: 2715
Location: France, Angers

Don’t be ashamed, I recently fried my S2RII too… while trying to put an LH351D in it
Well, I never really liked it anyway… or did I ? Sad

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 16 min ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 4074
Location: Portugal

X3 wrote:
Don’t be ashamed, I recently fried my S2RII too… while trying to put an LH351D in it
Well, I never really liked it anyway… or did I ? Sad
Whaaa? Shocked
Did it happen something similar? And no functioning at all?

Well, I’m just upset, I’d like to keep this one working fine that’s all!

I guess I should report it on “what did you break today” thread xD

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

Scallywag
Scallywag's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 41 min ago
Joined: 01/11/2018 - 22:23
Posts: 669
Location: Ohio, United States

The funny thing is, I wish the moonlight on my S1 were lower.

Realizing an emitter swap is possible here, I'm tempted to try on my S1, but then this is a thread about how it goes wrong, so maybe not... 

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
In-progress: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2 
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 16 min ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 4074
Location: Portugal
Scallywag wrote:

The funny thing is, I wish the moonlight on my S1 were lower.


Realizing an emitter swap is possible here, I’m tempted to try on my S1, but then this is a thread about how it goes wrong, so maybe not… 

Well, it was also proven that it works, mine was just a bad example Wink
I guess that the soldering iron will make the difference. A thin tip and a being hot enough to unsolder without having to touching for a long time may do the difference.

The more I think of it, the more I remember the beginning of the process yesterday, the more I realize that it may have been my mistake. It happened something similar when I tried to disassemble the Sofirn SP10A: the heat in the wire made a component burn (or at least get damaged).

So…get a good soldering iron with nice tip and …maybe it work Smile

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

-X3-
-X3-'s picture
Online
Last seen: 25 sec ago
Joined: 07/16/2014 - 03:28
Posts: 2715
Location: France, Angers

OTHO I’ve swapped every other Olight S series lights and neve encounter any problem… until the S1RII/S2RII
I’ve swapped : S1, S1R, S10RII, S10RIII, S30RII, S30RIII, M2R, H1, H1R, and also made triple in some of them

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 16 min ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 4074
Location: Portugal
X3 wrote:
OTHO I’ve swapped every other Olight S series lights and neve encounter any problem… until the S1RII/S2RII I’ve swapped : S1, S1R, S10RII, S10RIII, S30RII, S30RIII, M2R, H1, H1R, and also made triple in some of them

Did you remove the pill/driver of any of them? If so, can you share how? Like, tiwisting it, or pressing from head or tail?

You surely have a nice Olight collection Blushing

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

Scallywag
Scallywag's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 41 min ago
Joined: 01/11/2018 - 22:23
Posts: 669
Location: Ohio, United States

-X3- wrote:
OTHO I've swapped every other Olight S series lights and neve encounter any problem... until the S1RII/S2RII I've swapped : S1, S1R, S10RII, S10RIII, S30RII, S30RIII, M2R, H1, H1R, and also made triple in some of them

That's really encouraging. I'm much more likely to take a crack (hopefully, not literally!) at my S1 then. It's a useful little dude but the cool white is so angry blue, it's hard to carry at all. I'll admit though, when I do carry it, I'll clip it somewhere I can idly thumb the funny-shaped TIR when I'm standing around. I actually rather like that TIR's beam.

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
In-progress: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2 
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

Bob_McBob
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 18 min ago
Joined: 08/14/2016 - 04:53
Posts: 522
Location: Canada

MascaratumB wrote:
When I was modding , I took the battery out to prevent shorts. When I put it back again to turn the light on, it immediately started acting like that Sad
The switch had some trouble working properly I guess, but now it seems to be working fine. As I mentioned above, I am now thinking that some component might have been damaged while I was trying to unsolder the wires the first time.
Could it be that?

Also, does anyone know how to remove the entire pill? Just in case I wanna end up ruining the light Facepalm

I’m not trying to say you weren’t careful with the mod, but I know it happened at some point because I have several dead Olight drivers with identical symptoms in a box beside me. All it takes is the tiniest slip with tweezers while you’re doing something like positioning the optic. I’ve done emitter swaps on dozens of Zebralights with only a couple duds, but my failure rate with Olights was basically 100% until I realized just how fragile their drivers are. The cell stays out of the light unless there is no possibility I will be touching the MCPCB.

As far as I know, removing the driver is the same as outlined in X3’s S1 Mini teardown. I have disassembled quite a few Olights and it isn’t a very fun job. Unless you are fairly competent at diagnosing electronics issues there won’t be anything you can do with the driver. From the way the UI behaves and the separate moonlight failure mode, moonlight is distinct from the rest of the modes on the driver, but I have no idea if it’s part of the IC failing or some easily replaceable component. Personally I would just put it back together and accept it no longer has a useable moonlight mode. It’s definitely the driver, not your choice of LED or anything like that, and the damage is likely permanent.

I actually posted a cautionary note about this in the same S1 Mini thread:

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1484540#comment-1484540

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 16 min ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 4074
Location: Portugal

Bob_McBob wrote:

I’m not trying to say you weren’t careful with the mod, but I know it happened at some point because I have several dead Olight drivers with identical symptoms in a box beside me. All it takes is the tiniest slip with tweezers while you’re doing something like positioning the optic. I’ve done emitter swaps on dozens of Zebralights with only a couple duds, but my failure rate with Olights was basically 100% until I realized just how fragile their drivers are. The cell stays out of the light unless there is no possibility I will be touching the MCPCB.

As far as I know, removing the driver is the same as outlined in X3’s S1 Mini teardown. I have disassembled quite a few Olights and it isn’t a very fun job. Unless you are fairly competent at diagnosing electronics issues there won’t be anything you can do with the driver. From the way the UI behaves and the separate moonlight failure mode, moonlight is distinct from the rest of the modes on the driver, but I have no idea if it’s part of the IC failing or some easily replaceable component. Personally I would just put it back together and accept it no longer has a useable moonlight mode. It’s definitely the driver, not your choice of LED or anything like that, and the damage is likely permanent.

I actually posted a cautionary note about this in the same S1 Mini thread:

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1484540#comment-1484540

Hey Bob, I was probably careless with some stuff Oops Facepalm I am a bit messy, specially when soldering Oops But one thing I know, is that it wasn’t due to the cell, because it was out of the light!
Also, sorry for your dead drivers, not a nice situation, specially being these good and expensive flashlights!

Thanks for pointing me that thread as I hadn’t look to it before! I will do it, but I will probably not venture on opening the light! I will stay as it is, for the good and the bad.

MEANWHILE, I bought a small multimeter (Uni-T UT33D), nothing fancy but it may help solving the case. I just don’t know how as I never used a MMeter before Facepalm

ALSO, when I arrived from work and went to test the light with the MMeter (I don’t know what to search so I started touching things…. LOL) accidentally one probe touched the POSITIVE wire (solder) and the head’s wall (bare aluminium) and it lit up on the true moonlight.

SO, I guess the driver is not damaged as the ML mode works, but something is not making the right connection. When I touch both the wall and the + wire, the ML mode activates. I tried to put solder from the wire to the wall but that gives a continuous ON even the light is…OFF.

But now I know the driver may still be OK, just any connection is not being done correctly.

What do you think it may be?
And will the MMeter be useful to detect it? If so, how?

I am sorry for so many questions Sad And I thank for your information and help in advance! Thumbs Up

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 16 min ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 4074
Location: Portugal

So, when I pick the multimeter on the “diode test” (?) and put the negative probe in the negative wire / positive probe in the positive wire, the led lights up (as it should).
When I put the positive probe in the positive wire and the negative probe on the wall of the pill/head, he multimeter gives a sound and some values appear in the screen!

Does it mean I have a short somewhere?

I really don’t know what to do diagnose this… Facepalm Oops Tired Crying

EDIT: I tried the same test in other lights and they don’t act like this, namely on the second part of the test.

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

Scallywag
Scallywag's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 41 min ago
Joined: 01/11/2018 - 22:23
Posts: 669
Location: Ohio, United States

On those Olights, the head is battery+ which is also what the led+ gets. Then led- goes to the driver, and batt- comes out. So led+ should have continuity to the flashlight body on that particular light. 

 

Most lights, batt+ basically bypasses the driver and goes straight to led+, then led- to the driver, and batt- is the body of the light.

 

This is because of the type of power regulators we use in drivers. There's also some details glossed over here, like the driver leeching some power off of batt+ that goes through it to batt- and never to the led. 

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
In-progress: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2 
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

Lightbringer
Lightbringer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 39 min ago
Joined: 08/30/2016 - 14:12
Posts: 9473
Location: nyc

If you can still work it with the bezel/reflector/etc. off, try pushing down on the LED’s dome lightly with a fingertip or eraser-end of a pencil, see if it goes to normal brightness.

I had an issue with a TK05 where it “worked” (all modes, etc.), just at about 1/10th the brightness. “Loose”(??) LED? Either way, reflowing/resoldering fixed it.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 16 min ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 4074
Location: Portugal

Scallywag wrote:
On those Olights, the head is battery+ which is also what the led+ gets. Then led- goes to the driver, and batt- comes out. So led+ should have continuity to the flashlight body on that particular light.

Most lights, batt+ basically bypasses the driver and goes straight to led+, then led- to the driver, and batt- is the body of the light.

This is because of the type of power regulators we use in drivers. There’s also some details glossed over here, like the driver leeching some power off of batt+ that goes through it to batt- and never to the led. 

Thanks for the clarification Scallywag! I tried some stuff but itt didn’t help after all! Still, now I know how it works Wink

Lightbringer wrote:
If you can still work it with the bezel/reflector/etc. off, try pushing down on the LED’s dome lightly with a fingertip or eraser-end of a pencil, see if it goes to normal brightness.

I had an issue with a TK05 where it “worked” (all modes, etc.), just at about 1/10th the brightness. “Loose”(??) LED? Either way, reflowing/resoldering fixed it.


Thanks for the tip Lightbringer.
After testing and trying some stuff, last night I decided to call it a end! Pressing the led or the board didn’t help, the only thing that made contact were the tweezers but on the wall.

So, I decided not to invest more time trying to fix it, I replaced the XML2 in the DTP copper board for an XP-G2 (S4-3D, apparently) and put everything back on place and closed the light.

So that you know, the ML mode is lower than the Reylights have (I have an Amutorch SS light with that driver and compared it).

Despite I don’t have the 0.5lm moonlight, I can live with the current one. And the tint of the XP-G2 will suit me better Wink

Thanks for the help, the information, the time and the tips! All are much appreciated Blushing

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1