Alpg88 2019 Old-Lumens Challenge Entry, machine category

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alpg88
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Alpg88 2019 Old-Lumens Challenge Entry, machine category

I will enter this years Old-Lumens Challenge in machine category, i will be building a light using 3D printer. i only learned a small part of a simple 3d design software, but i feel this should be enough to make a relatively simple light.
so far i have no solid plan, only some details to build a light around. it will be 4 triples, 2 will be warm white xpg3, 2 others will be color, uv, red amber, and white. i will use rgb driver, the light will have white\amber strobe, as well as red, and uv leds, it will be powered by several 18650 in parallel, with usb charging. warm white leds will be running of linear drivers, there will be 2 modes for warm whites. i will be using ledil triple optics, with narrow angle. i will be using abs filament. i will use aluminum angle for a heatsink. the shape and possible other functions will come “as i go”
unfortunately this year i can not use my favorite material, plywood, due to newborn in the house, i can not set up a “wood shop”, but fortunately, i acquired an interest in 3d design. thanks to a member of this forum. and will use my newly acquired knowledge to participate in the contest.

MRsDNF
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Thumbs Up Smile

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

CRX
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Nice to see you enter Thumbs Up

alpg88
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thanks guys.

here are some parts that i’ll be using, and first sketch of the light.

i will need to buy a roll of filament, i’m thinking orange color,

alpg88
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MRsDNF
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When I grow up I’m going to be able to draw like that. Beer

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

alpg88
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Thanks, believe it or not, a month ago i had no clue how to draw a line on computer. this program is very simple, all i know how to do is to take primitive shapes, alter them, cut and combine. there is so much more to that software that i do not know, maybe next year i’ll learn how to do more complex shapes.

pinkpanda3310
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Welcome to the comp alpg88. Looking forward to what you build Smile

In my very limited experience with drawing I’ve found that slicer softwares (for 3d printers) are more user friendly than cad/cam (for cnc mills etc..).

gchart
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Glad to see you’re joining! Looking forward to seeing the process and result.

Joshk
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Welcome aboard Smile
It looks like you are tackling that learning curve great! The best part of 3D design is the relaxation that comes with being able to undo anything. It’s freedom Big Smile

alpg88
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printed a test part, to see how patterns show up, and how it shrinks, overall pleased with result, patterns do show up, hopefully acetone fume smoothing will leave some of it, and it did shrink, 160mm side became 158.5mm, 12.1 became 11.9, and 37, became 36.7mm. will adjust the part’s dimensions accordingly.

i also realized, if i perint 2 parts that supposed to fit together in different positions, then Y becomes Z and x becomes Y, so shrinkage will not be the same, and parts will most likely not fit. so i have to print them in same positions, but then i got another dilemma, if i print sides standing up, thin parts may not print right, i had that happen with long thin parts, i will also have bad finish on the bottom. so i may have to split the core in half, print 2 halves separately, and then join with acetone. or i can join 2 sides with small pegs and print both as one part, i will print 30% size test print to see how it comes out.

Joshk
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Looking good Smile . I too used to print ABS and shrinkage was always frustrating.
On another note, the magic number for clearance is about 0.25mm. So if you want to put a cover down in a recessed area, subtract 0.5mm off the height and the same off the width of the inner piece. That should make them go together and come apart as expected.

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Nice project, alpg88. The light has an interesting form. Cool

You will use enough aluminium, right? If you drive those triples with some current there will be plenty of heat.

alpg88
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yes it will make heat, should be enough aluminum to dissipate low-mid current, but high, only for short time, i will have to install a thermal sensor to drop down current.

alpg88
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also i found out small raised letter are not showing up, slicer does not even process them, but with letters that are sunk, it works just fine, i had to lower each letter so they show up on a slicer.

Asian8640
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Welcome to the party Big Smile

Skylight
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alpg88 wrote:
yes it will make heat, should be enough aluminum to dissipate low-mid current, but high, only for short time, i will have to install a thermal sensor to drop down current.

Good idea, yes. Good luck with your build! Crown

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alpg88 wrote:
!https://i.imgur.com/z9uVn00.jpg!

.
May I ask if you have tried AutoDesk Fusion 360 cadcam software ? It is FREE for Hobbyist to use. Big Smile
I’m just drawing with it now and its easy to learn.
Nice project. Thumbs Up

CNC & Manual Machinist. Think outside the box too long , cannot find your way back in.

Never give up, Never surrender. Make someone Smile today.

alpg88
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finished designing parts, so far printed 3 parts, in black abs, side covers, and the head spacer,

the head spacer will be pressing on the tir, thus pressing on the mcpcb, i wont need to use any screws or glue, just thermal paste. there will be an o ring around each led, so glass will press against it, and create a seal between outer window and the spacer.\

the core will be printed in 2 parts, i wanted to use orange abs, got a roll of ic3d stuff, but it does not want to stick to the bed, so far, will try some other stuff, if not will have to replace the abs, black hatchbox printer beautifully, stock to the bed with glue stick every single time,. i want to do 2 tones, black side covers and head, orange core and switch cover.
charging will be done usb port, one side cover will have a sliding door, that will open up a port.

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Great progress alpg88 Thumbs Up I hope that aluminium angle will be enough heatsinking

alpg88
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a thermal shut off at 70c will make sure things will not get too hot, i will attach it on the other side of the aluminum angle, once it trips it will shut off the driver, white light will still be available from other triple, that will drive the leds at 700ma, so no overheating at that current.

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Cool Cool (pun…??) Sorry if I missed reading that from somewhere earlier in the build. Sounds like you’ve thought it out and covered it Thumbs Up

MtnDon
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I’m following this as I have been thinking of 3D printing for some time. Somehow I didn’t see this topic/project until just now.

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alpg88
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MtnDon wrote:
I’m following this as I have been thinking of 3D printing for some time. Somehow I didn’t see this topic/project until just now. Thumbs Up

the more i print the more i like hand tools.

MRsDNF
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Love your skills with the printing. Thumbs Up

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

alpg88
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had a bit of a set back, orange abs from ic3d isn’t sticking to the bed no matter what i do, so i’m using red abs instead from hatchbox, prints, and sticks beautifully. so i printed another part, side cover that will house switches. the core is on the printer, it will be a 3 day job, i decided to print 1 piece core.

gchart
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Looks like some great progress!

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Good work Smile
I have been planning to get an Ender3 as a backup printer, but it would need an enclosure like yours. What is the width and depth needed to fit that thing with the moving bed?

alpg88
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Joshk wrote:
Good work Smile I have been planning to get an Ender3 as a backup printer, but it would need an enclosure like yours. What is the width and depth needed to fit that thing with the moving bed?

20×26×28 is what it takes to fit cr10. for ender 3, a smaller one would do
i build mine myself, my printer didn’t come with one.

Joshk
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Would 20“wide x 19“deep be enough?

alpg88
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core finished, now i’ll have to remove lots of supports.

there was supposed to be a sign, on the back of it, it showed pretty clear in slicer, but it came out much worst, i can barely read some words others can’t read at all,

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