It’s sad to see such defects in an otherwise amazing pocket light.
I’m glad my car and my bike haven’t been made the same way… have they? :person_facepalming:
I hope IamMatt can disassemble the driver and see if it was missplaced at first hand or maybe “just torn aside” while the spring was bent.
well - the second scenario might intend, that the retainingring was not very tight from the beginning.
and did anyone receive/review a E14 from Manker
is there a difference in quality or are the 15 bucks extra just going into MAPockets?
Hi,
almost impossible because the driver sits in a deeper milled ring inside the pill.
Regards
Kenjii
I think djozz received his E14 from gearbest , I’m not sure.
Anyone know where I can get a new switch assembly? I struggled a bit with the wire bypass on mine and heated it up too much, so the travel shortened on it. :person_facepalming: Still works, but want to find a new one before anything happens.
If you did the bypass, and the spring is too short (If I am reading this right) just pull it out a bit with pliers… The bypass should take care of any potential heating issues, so there would not be any further collapse…
If you fried the switch by heating it up too much, it should be a 1288 Omten switch for replacement. I do not know any place that you could buy the whole PCB off hand. A little polite back and forth with Banggood (or where you bought it) may net you a new switch if you are honest about the reason, may cost a buck or two…
Don’t worry, I ordered (one of each) mine on the 16th and still waiting for them to be shipped. I’ve been told by banggood on here that it’s because of the nichia which will be in stock on the 31st may but hey we are still waiting for updates. :cry:
Simon has them. 2.81€ |1288 taschenlampe schalter|flashlight switch|switch switchswitch flashlight - AliExpress 3.25€ |16mm 1288 schalter für S2 +/S3/M1/M2/C8, eisen frühling|switch switch|switch 16mmc8 switch - AliExpress
When doing any kind of soldering to the switch, make sure it is in the off position.
nice tip
why?
It keeps the heat from running directly through the switch. There’s a teeny tiny spring in there…click, click, click…that will collapse. That’s what burns out when you run too many amps (heat) through a switch. I fried many a switch while soldering bypasses and braid to them. It’s never happened since I started making sure the switch was in the off position.
The second one i ordered will not be there for some weeks… Glad i caught one early! 
Order Placed Date: 2016-05-25
Expected Shipping Date: 2016-06-24
Good to know. Thanks for the tip. :sunglasses:
Yeah, I understood before ordering that the nichia was on backorder but I ordered the XP-G2 and it said it would be shipped 5/31. It wasnt. Im just hoping that the 2nd date(6/6) they provided is correct.
Nice tip, thanks!
Still…don’t linger too long with the heat.
Addendum:
I was ordering something on Banggood today and happened to check my order history. What a surprise I got, seeing an S41 sitting in my order history when I did not order one! (apparently from the 20th?) Neal is, apparently, sending me a review sample! It’s Nichia 219’s and it’s back-ordered. lol Nothing at all was said, but there it is in my order history. So yeah, it appears he was thinking about me after all, just got caught up in the delays.
So I have to say I’m sorry for being such a pessimist. 
Should have known he’d want me to see one and check it out against the prototype.
Sometimes things just happen. Coscar had a KRONOS X6 with the Bistro driver that wouldn’t function… as it turned out, there was a solder bridge from the PWM leg on the MOSFET to the ground leg beside it, effectively shorting out the mosfet. Simple to fix, touch it with an iron and remove the bridge. Probably should have been caught in QC as it was highly visible, but whatever.
Point is, when making hundreds and even thousands of lights, there will be a few things that don’t go quite as planned. You know, like when YOU have a hangover at work… 
I have noticed that the workers that assemble these don’t like to file off the attachment points on the driver board, where they were all attached in the sheet. It’s usually necessary to file these points off where the boards are broken apart, not taking care of this could have had the driver sitting high, not setting down into the shelf where it is supposed to, and thus, able to move around a bit under what seems to be a snug retaining ring.
Has it been said to use flat tops in this very compact light? A button top might be pushing things, but at any rate if there seems to be undue resistance when putting a light together, don’t force it, open it up and check out what’s going on in there. (Especially if the above scenario happens, the driver is about 1.5mm higher than it’s supposed to be, which would make a button top cell a very tight fit) Those shorty tubes may also be a bit on the short side, I’ve seen em that way with the X6 lights and A6 lights, the 18350 stands proud of the tube when dropped in, so it may be necessary to make an adjustment, like using a small brass post in place of a taller spring on the driver, just check, make sure, as you should always do with all lights. (An 16340 will easily fit if the 18350’s seem too snug)
What are the type of the little screws in the head ,as my S41 misses one?I think I can find it here and not waiting a month for coming it from China.
If you have an old computer you don’t need laying around, pull out the harddrive and disassemble it. One harddrive will yields 15+ screws appropriate for screwing stars to pills.
Τhank you very much.