So, guys, I’m currently in the process of designing the small spring designed as a double spring and a driver spring.
It work perfectly as a driver spring according to my calculations.
It should work as a double spring theoretically quite well, but it doesn’t as well as I thought
Mechanically, it’s quite good. Electrically, it works very well.
However, the problem is that it makes the big spring+small spring array a bit more resistant to deformation, needing more force to deform. This is because the small spring is being entangled with the big spring.
Making the bottom diameter smaller would fix this. Other than that, the specs are now ready.
Preliminary specs for the small dual purpose spring:
Material: Beryllium Copper C17530 38% IACS/C17500 45% IACS
Spring upper diameter: 5mm
Spring base diameter: 7mm/6mm
Spring thickness: 0,8mm
Spring height: 10mm
Total number of coils: 5
They’re actually the same spring. He’s probably making springs with wider spaces between each coil to account for the small difference in battery size with 26650s, which sometimes have raised tops.
@klrman, don’t worry. You’re the first on the list. I’m going to start to send PMs perhaps this evening.
No worries, was just curious how it was going along thanks. I ordered small and large springs. I was wondering if the small springs fit in the large springs to make them double springs as it seems like a good mod for some of my lights.
With a bottom diameter of 7mm, they do fit, but so snuggly they end up affecting the deformation force needed to move the spring per mm.
With a bottom diameter of 6mm, they should fit in without any problem without affecting the mechanical properties of the big spring at all, with the benefits of a dual spring.
In a dual spring arrangement, they should be able to handle 20A no problem. That does depend on spring compression height though.
In relation to this, making the spring just a bit taller at 1mm would help.
I would say make the base of the small springs a bit smaller so they do not interferer. Personally The large springs will be used on large lights and the small springs can be really small.
The mounting pad on the TA 17mm driver for example is just over 5mm, so these small springs would not even work on it but it is an edge case due to all the 7135’s.
@Texas Ace, in that case, an almost symmetrical spring would work as intended, with a 4,5mm top diameter, and a 5mm bottom diameter as originally planned, with a much higher height though.
However, I do not know what its behavior as a double spring will be. From what I have gathered and measured, a dual spring works best with both springs around the same proportions, since if it goes down, it will follow the big springs’ deformation. With a small symmetrical spring however inside of the big spring, there is a minuscule chance of the coils going raw on each other if the small spring deforms sideways.
This should not be a problem since the small spring diameter would still be smaller than the top diameter, but I would have to run additional calculations.
Also, if you were to use this in a driver spring, I don’t think a 10mm tall spring would work in every build right? Although I have seen lonoceans do it in his Convoy S2+ build :+1:
So perhaps it will work both as a driver spring and a dual spring, who knows.
@klrman, how did you do your springs bypasses and with what kind of wire :question:
Edge case, hardly. Pretty sure intended case otherwise you could use the big spring on both ends couldn’t you? The way I see it make the small spring something that will work with any double sided driver, including FET+N+1 and these new boost drivers. Is the bigger one so big it would not work on a single sided FET only driver?
The ones I bypassed are all good, but I mean all the L6's I got from Simon and hardly used much have had all bypasses come loose and some came from the factory already disconnected.
@contactcr, yes. Even if you were to use the smaller top diameter as a base at 7mm, it would be too big.
And wait! If the top diameter was 5mm, and the bottom diameter was 6mm, if you needed to put the spring on the driver side, you could just flip it, and it would fit perfectly!
Huh, really? Of all companies making bypasses, I would expect the best coming from Convoy.
BTW guys, the final measurements for the small springs are here:
Material: Beryllium Copper C17530 38% IACS
Spring upper diameter: 5mm
Spring base diameter: 6mm
Spring thickness: 0,8mm
Spring height: 10mm
Total number of coils: 5
I’ve sent a message to the company, and when they respond with everything we need to begin, I will begin sending out PMs.
It depends on who did them. I don’t know if Simon does all of the L6 bypasses by hand or if an employee does them.
In order to last, they need to be done just right. They need to partially curve around the inside of the spring so that as the spring compresses, your not over stressing the solder joints. You also want to prevent the solder from wicking too far into the ends of the wire so that it stays flexible. The more rigid the wire becomes, the more likely it’s is to break over time.
My bypasses are not great, I haven’t done enough of them, but Texas_Ace says he’s got the technique down so that they last a long time.
It’s a hard skill for a person to learn. It takes a lot of experimenting and practice. It’s not something the average Chinese factory is willing to devote a lot of time to get “just right”. They tend to go for “looks okay to me”. Know what I mean?. They are just not that detail oriented compared to some of the guys on this forum. (In my opinion)
I have seen a few factory spring bypasses from Sofirn and they look very casually done. I doubt that they properly heat up the spring and solder pad for a good flow and attachement of the solder.
As said, it is a bit of an art, curving the wire in shape for less stress on the copper when bended, twist it in position inside the spring, clamping the ends between resp. the top and bottom coils (what I usually do), heating up to good temperature, applying the solder and watching it flow well, but stopping the heat just in time so that the solder does not get sucked too far into the wire.
