So I have recieved the new parts, from MTN, for the C8 build. I’ve chosen to get a 20mm copper noctigon board with a XM-l2, together with a Qlite driver.
I’ve also used the XP-G2, which was originally planned to be used in the C8, for a P60 drop-in used in the ultrafire WF-501B host. I’m not sure but I believe it’s driven at 1.5A. I might mod that one again in the future.
Back to the C8, I had also ordered some 7135 chips. I’ve soldered 4 additional chips to the driver, so it now has 12 chips for a drive current of about 4-4.5A. It was pretty hard to solder these small chips, But it turned out great! I forget to make pictures.
I used some thermal paste for under the copper board. It didn’t have to use thermal glue since there are 2 screws holding the board firmly down.
I’m pretty happy with the results.
It’s very bright. You can clearly see an increase in light output compared to my other C8, which uses the same LED but has a lower drive current.
ahh my mistake. Still, should be quite bright. I built one similar with 12*7135’s, but due to spring resistance I was only getting 3amps. took me awhile to figure out the culprit.
Nice looks great!
I have another project on my way, that has to finish first. Then I will look at the possibility to make a C8 with an XP-G2 driven at around 3A.
I quess I will first put a 3A driver in the P60 with the XP-G2. I have a very nice alu sleeve that fits perfectly between the P60 drop-in and the host, so I dont have to worry about the heat.
Damn it guys, my money isn’t safe when browsing the forums….
I haven't tried any of the newer emitters, but I have a few dedomed 4.5A XP-G2 R5 1As that I've put into Uniquefire UF-T20 zoomies. You need a good cell to hit 4.5A with an XP-G2 on copper. Even with a 20R it can't hold 4.5A for long.
Thank you Richard. Yes I do realize that the XP-G2 has high Vf and I can hardly drive it higher than 4.0A with one 18650. I hope the XP-G2 won’t be killed at that current though.
I am not sure how would you even measure tilt shift for red emitter!? If it is just buy eye I would say that it becomes slightly deeper red or more red! if that has any sense, but I might be wrong her, eyes can be pretty imprecise measuring tool :~
chouster, It is pretty easy to make red C8 so I would say go for it, although it might get a bit tricky if you plan to dedome XP-E2, they tend to be a bit messy, dome doesn’t like to peel off from phosphor surface cleanly…
I just tested an XP-G2 R5-1A dedomed with nanj 8x7135(350mA) + 4x7135 (380mA) total 4320mA with a 16mm sinkpad. Got slightly over 4A with and it started to shift color so I turned it off. Tried 5 times but it seams to be to much. Maybe it works better with 20mm board. Had a Q 3040mA driver before and it worked fine. The color was just slighly warmer on this one after dedome. It use to be much more yellowish with those XM-L I have dedomed before. Used a Panasonic 3400 protected.
