FREEME ✌ ASTROLUX FT03S SFH55 9300lm & FT03 SFT40 2200lm 1300m NarsilM v1.3 USB-C - ALIVE

[hasddie293]

Order Astrolux FT03 SST40 5700K….! This going to be my first Trower flashlight…another new excitement…

@JasonWW

You can’t assume a 20% loss of lumen between 6500K and 5000K. It all depends on the binning and forward voltage of the led (with FET driver).
Also, brightness is not a big factor in throw distance. It’s more about the beam angles and hot spot size, etc…

I think your worried about nothing.

Tq for informed me that… Vf and binning things… I’ll will see what your meaning once my FT03 had arrived…hehe :student:

[JasonWW]

@hasddie293

Order Astrolux FT03 SST40 5700K….! This going to be my first Trower flashlight…another new excitement…

@JasonWW

You can’t assume a 20% loss of lumen between 6500K and 5000K. It all depends on the binning and forward voltage of the led (with FET driver).
Also, brightness is not a big factor in throw distance. It’s more about the beam angles and hot spot size, etc…

I think your worried about nothing.

Tq for informed me that… Vf and binning things… I’ll will see what your meaning once my FT03 had arrived…hehe :student:

You keep misspelling “Thrower” as in it throws a long distance. :+1:
X3 has a 5000K version and measured 871 meters. Not bad. It will always vary from light to light.

[everydaysurvivalgear]

This light with a fully dedomed SST40 is amazing! Mine is pushing around 400kcd measured at 5m. Its in the ballpark range of my Cometa with a flat white.

[freeme (youtube.com/@1thedeals)]

Awesome :THUMBS-UP:

@everydaysurvivalgear

This light with a fully dedomed SST40 is amazing! Mine is pushing around 400kcd measured at 5m. Its in the ballpark range of my Cometa with a flat white.

[PiercingTheDarkness]

@everydaysurvivalgear

This light with a fully dedomed SST40 is amazing! Mine is pushing around 400kcd measured at 5m. Its in the ballpark range of my Cometa with a flat white.

Dedoming must make a lot of difference since slicing only added 20m max on a unit I sold. Maybe it was under performing to begin with. I didn’t take a before reading but I had another untouched unit as well. Stock - 1.04km, sliced unit - 1.06km

[everydaysurvivalgear]

@Funtastic

@everydaysurvivalgear

This light with a fully dedomed SST40 is amazing! Mine is pushing around 400kcd measured at 5m. Its in the ballpark range of my Cometa with a flat white.

Dedoming must make a lot of difference since slicing only added 20m max on a unit I sold. Maybe it was under performing to begin with. I didn’t take a before reading but I had another untouched unit as well. Stock - 1.04km, sliced unit - 1.06km

How low did you slice it and was it the cw or nw SST40? Out of focus maybe? I put a flat white in a C8 and it was out performed by a dedomed XPG2. Couldn’t get a proper focus.

[VictorMarquez]

Is code still available? Thanks

[robertino]

I quote VictorMarquez! If code is still available, I’m interested in 1 FT03 SST40 5k or 5.7k!

[hasddie293]

I just wondering if the minor issue which already reported here in this thread,I think it was the first batch… are already been addressed and fix? People upon received claim there was:

1. on turbo, hear a sound and consensus say its from the glass
2. there a rattle sound probaly tiny white plastics on the tailcap
3. the mcpcb surface ??

I can’t recall it right now, I will re read it back start from TomE received the FT03…

Anyone can share it here…I forgot aome of those

I want to gather it together these minor issue and hopefully once my parcel arrive, atleast I’ll know what to do… So that, assumed whether the FT03 100% works properly…95% atleast! Work according with description!

No big issue here, ofcourse the light works… It just basis check, issue that adresses by a flashlight modder…

[Geese]

Interested in coupon code

Thanks

[freeme (youtube.com/@1thedeals)]

1. on turbo, hear a sound and consensus say its from the glass - buzzing sound coming from driver?
2. there a rattle sound probaly tiny white plastics on the tailcap - FIXED long ago. Even before XHP50.2 launch.
3. the mcpcb surface ?? - never heard of this... solder joints?

@hasddie293

I just wondering if the minor issue which already reported here in this thread,I think it was the first batch… are already been addressed and fix? People upon received claim there was: # on turbo, hear a sound and consensus say its from the glass # there a rattle sound probaly tiny white plastics on the tailcap # the mcpcb surface ?? I can’t recall it right now, I will re read it back start from TomE received the FT03… Anyone can share it here…I forgot aome of those :person_facepalming: I want to gather it together these minor issue and hopefully once my parcel arrive, atleast I’ll know what to do… So that, assumed whether the FT03 100% works properly…95% atleast! Work according with description! No big issue here, ofcourse the light works… It just basis check, issue that adresses by a flashlight modder…

[JasonWW]

1. He means the “tink” sound that the glass makes on Turbo. I don’t know if they still do it, but it has never been an issue. Just ignore it.

3. He means the rough texture on the bottom of the MCPCB. It was never determined if this is an actual problem or not. It’s not ideal, but it seems to work just fine. This is also a moot point, but I am curious if they smoothed it out in later versions.

[FlashPilot]

Please send codes for SST40 and XHP50.2 versions.

Thank you!

[hasddie293]

@Tom E

MCPCB size, 28mm:

Really big MCPCB traces you can see here. Basically, the + and - traces are the full surface:

They mimicked a Manker MCPCB, but the traces and finish are different:

Mounted, stock:

Liquidy grease and a contaminant near the black wire on the left. It showed on the MCPCB side as well:

After cleaned up. Did you ever see copper with a wood grain finish? Hard to get the grease out of the channels:

That mark was some gunk that I could scrape off:

So, I don’t think it’s a good thing to have a wood grain finish on the backside of an MCPCB, no, don’t think so. Fortunately it can be eliminated by a good amount of flat surface sanding.

Between the rough surface, the contaminant, and the liquefied grease, I’m sure that explains the cracking/popping sounds. I do want to replace the LED wires too, and for that, I’ll need to get the driver out - gotta wait for tomorrow.

MCPCB Pros:

• good amount of grease

• really like the insulated screws securing it down

• LED wires look heavy gauge, guess at 20 AWG

• nice size MCPCB, nicely done traces

MCPCB Cons:

• crud, gunk thing in there - not good, this contact area needs to be 100% clean

• poor looking grease, dunno what it is

• absolutely ridiculous finish on the backside of the MCPCB - what were they think’n? Not much on this…

• copied a Manker 28 mm MCPCB, but wait - ohh, not the backside gold smooth finish, hhmm……

I mean this one,

[casi29061965]

Please send code for SST40 version.

[hasddie293]

But, then He and AlexGT compromising…

@Tom E

@Th558

Well if it’s drawing the same current then that means the heat is getting out faster. Isn’t that a good thing?

Yes, it’s what we were taught and sure made sense for the old XML’s the tests were done on originally. You can’t bottle up too much heat, otherwise the LED will de-solder itself like what used to happen on the old alum MCPCB’s with the insulating layers, but I wonder now if it’s that important to have a very conductive heat path to the outer surface since we know the LED can take more heat than the hand - wondering if there’s a better point of compromise.

Guess what I’m saying, is perhaps in stock form, this FT03 isn’t soooo bad. With the heat path mods Alex and I made, now all the heat goes to the not-so-efficient surface, meaning poor finning, not that much mass for the amount of heat to shed.

[hasddie293]

How about this?

@oweban

Pop the MCPCB up off the shelf first so that it’s not still in contact with the rest of the body - makes it a lot easier, because it won’t be transferring heat to the body.

My MCPCB was actually pretty smooth, but I gave it a hit anyway to make it shiny.

Banggood have said they don’t have the gasket,but they’re passing it onto the team to see if it’s worth getting on their store. I’ve 3D printed a replacement, but I don’t think it’ll be appropriate. Oh well, that’ll teach me for not taking my time on cutting it (it snapped quite a bit off).

[JasonWW]

They have sold many hundreds of these lights and the mcpcb has shown no problems. Maybe because it is so big. I would not worry about it.

Maybe someone with a recent model will check the bottom of the mcpcb, but it requires soldering and not too many people want to go through the trouble. We just have to wait and see. I am not concerned about it.

[hasddie293]

This one is with regards the inner shelf of not being smooth…but FREEME have sent report…but dunno what next

@freeme

Thanks for the heads up. I have reported your findings to Banggood yesterday. I will get them to contact the factory asap on Monday.

@KawiBoy1428

This is the worse shelf I have found so far….on the FT03’s. …

KawiBoy1428 has smooth it by “stonning” look fine

[freeme (youtube.com/@1thedeals)]

Just to inform you that FT03 USB port cover is listed on Banggood site now.

https://www.banggood.com/2Pcs-Astrolux-FT03-USB-Port-Waterproof-Rubber-Plug-DIY-Spare-Flashlight-Accessories-p-1569087.html

@BOMBAY

can the rubber covers of the charging port be somewhere? my cover broke when opening the charging port