Just keep your money then.
The cells you have shouldn’t have any problem powering it very close to max power since you can’t go above 7-8A without the LED failing.
:+1: :+1:
CW shipped 
Ah, thanks very much, appreciate it!
(Maybe when there’s a D4s with 21700 ;p )
Did someone compare the NW with the CW version?
I received my FT03 and I really love it. Thank Banggood
still no status for shipment 
If someone want to trade some kCd for MOAR lumens, a simple emitter swap with the new XHP50.2 3V is straight forward.
With a good battery, we’re looking at 15A of current drain so more than 4000 lumens…
Can’t wait to receive mines, the value on this light seems unreal.
It’s been mentioned. I might do it.
I'll probably go with a 3V XHP50.2 in one of them - should be an easy swap from SST-40, though still not sure what the NW LED will be? Or do we now? Doubt anyone one rcv'd their NW yet.
The throw #'s are sounding great!
I ordered 2 cool white around Feb 13 to canada they just showed up yesterday.
+1 :smiling_imp: :+1:
There’s enough meat in that host to get a couple minutes worth of turbo before thermal protection kicks in
Still no beamshots, no comparisons, no nothing…. 
so… something? 
There is a vid on youtube from a user but thats it.
Having yet to actually mod anything I was recently watching how-to videos on re-flowing LEDS.
Would anything have to be modified to drop in an XHP50.2 or is the voltage the same?
When switching the emitters for a mod do you ever have to play with the driver or can you only do it if you have matching voltages on the emitters?
I’ve assumed current doesn’t matter so long as your cells can provide the necessary amps?
as a “drop in” you would have to make sure you get the very limited 3V XHP50.2 (almost every major vendor has 6/12V version). Otherwise, the footprint and everything else should be compatible. Current will go WAY up so it will surely test the quality of the springs in this light unless they are bypassed.
Reflowing is pretty tricky. If not done just right it can burn up the led. It’s better to just buy a 3v 50.2 already mounted on a mcpcb. This FT03 is 3v which is why you need the new 3v 50.2. They are at Cutter, ASFlashlights and Kaidomain. I’m not sure what diameter mcpcb you need, maybe 26mm?
This light uses a FET driver which is direct drive. It’s important on these drivers that the led, battery and resistance all be correct so as not to burn up the LED. So far the new 3v 50.2 is quite robust and have handled high drain batteries just fine. Iirc we have seen them pull 19A from a 30T cell. So the batteries internal resistance does make a difference. So does the particular FET they are using and the wire gauge and length, plus the springs. It all has an effect. You should be fine though. I don’t think a Golisi 4300 or Aspire 4300 would kill it.
The best thing to do is wait till you see the more experienced modders built it and see if it survives. If so, then just copy them. Lol