I always read reviews and test results before buying anything these days. Not just flashlights, but anything that moves, lights up or emits sound. Main reason I joined this forum was to get expert advice and y’all came through big league…
Thank you gentlemen, all for the in depth info on the light. I was excited to see it at a low price and was about to buy one until reading all these reviews. It looks like it will need modding to perform to the specs the maker advertises?.? I’ll wait j til you experts find a good mod solution or find a high lumen zoomie other than this flashlight… :+1:
Confirmed, the driver is LD-51, and the shelf thickness on the pill is about 4mm, the pill itself is hefty and very well made.
The driver has two big resistors one R010 and the other R050.
I also dedomed the led, not the cleanest dedome ever but not all that bad either
Tested throw, 243900cd 987m, now this is better. I actually tested twice to see if this number is true, because it is much higher than my stock test, so now i am questioning the accuracy of the stock test i did.
Next is to see what can be done to the driver, if 1.8-2A is possible out from this driver i would be happy.
That's a pretty good dedome, both how it looks and the results! How did you do it? How does the beam look now?
So you got 987m just by dedoming the led? Wow that’s more than half a mile!! I’m changing my mind about buying one now. :+1:
The dedome is done with hot nitro paint thinner, it took about 30 min. The beam itself is fairly clean, only one faint ring around the led die projection and those “Saturn rings” that someone mentioned, those are caused by the greased threads in the head, if cleaned from silicone grease the rings might disappear but it also might make the focusing action a little bit rougher.
Yes, but keep in mind that dedoming XHP35 leds can be very tough if you don’t have right chemicals for the job. I used nitro paint thinner, some might use some other mix of chemicals but as far as i know the traditional methods as regular pump gas or hot dedome don’t work for the XHP35 led.
Hello my friends!
please notice that i was asked to remove the deals price - if you quoted it please remove that number also!
i try to get a new deal for you ;)
Ahh, ok, was wondering - I couldn't get my registration on your site working, so I had no way of asking.
your registration was accepted today
i was busy moving and my PC broke ...
sorry!
Bobby, I’m not familiar with “nitro” paint thinner. Do you have a product link or name brand that I can investigate? I have used Xylene with good results on other LEDs but have been scared to try an XHP35 because I heard they were difficult.
I received my HT35 over the weekend. I got home from a trip Sunday evening and only had time to play with the light for a couple minutes. My initial observations were mostly disappointments and negatives:
- Obvious chip in anodizing prominent on bezel. In the grand scheme I don’t care that much about the chip since I like to use my lights, not shelf them, so most of them show signs of use after a while - it is just a little disappointing in a brand new light.
- Visually not near as much lux (zoomed in spot not as bright as) a 250kcd Brinyte B158. Didn’t have time to measure with the meter.
- Batteries super loose (lengthwise) in tube. 2x Liitokalla 26650 with solder blobs added are still so loose that they lose connection and the light switches off just from handling, not even needing to be tapped or hit (those things switch it off also).
- Bad rings, as previously mentioned from the design of how the pill “sinks into” the head to retract and achieve focus – rings are unavoidable from this mechanical design choice I think. The B158 pill is on a pedestal that protrudes when in flood mode, and retracts to put the pill flush to the body in zoom mode. The B158 design is superior for a cleaner beam, the HT35 is superior for heat.
However there were some Positives:
- Nice solid pill, and as the last bullet point above mentions, and heat management should be good (relatively speaking for a zoomable light).
- The collar around the LED is black and has a very nice matte finish, it is obviously a deliberate and good design choice (as opposed to an afterthought in many lights) that was made to eliminate internal reflections. The best attempt by a manufacturer that I’ve seen in a stock light.
- The rings when zoomed in are really unfortunate and distracting, and due to the mechanical design of the light – probably unavoidable. HOWEVER, the way the light goes together I think maybe makes this a good candidate for my first attempt at adding a collimating lens to an aspheric light.
thanks sac02!
+1, good info. Mine shipped yesterday.
I could not find much info online for the nitro paint thinner, that solvent is very common over here, it is allover the place.
There was some discussion for it in the dedome thread and some guys that live in the US never heard about it, but on the other hand i am not familiar with Xylene so i don’t know if it is going to do the job as good as the paint thinner i used.
Most lacquer is made from nitrocellulose, so the equivalent product in the USA would be lacquer thinner, I think. In any case, lacquer thinner is the most powerful solvent commonly available.
Received my light today with some liitokala 50A cells. The bloody light DOES NOT WORK! :rage: (i worked last night and just finished a 63 mile ride, so need to sleep a bit. ) Will update in a few hours. :confounded:
I bought this light 13 days ago and paid extra for expedited 3 - 5 day DHL express delivery tracking shows it just left Dubai UAE. I’m gonna ask Banggood for a refund on that express delivery charge!
please keep me updated on your problems!
Guyss. The light works! The cells didn’t make contact between each other so needed a little magnet. These are the black, liitokala 50A.
good to hear eebowler :beer:
Was wondering bout that with those cells in 2S. I've been solder blob'ing the top of one LK cell - I've been getting good at it on 18650's. The last cell in is all you need done, unless they are a bit short in total length.