Hmm, that might get you close for these cells, but that method is not really capturing the critical value which is the cell temperature I think. In other words there is not anything special about dropping the particular voltage to get to the nominal voltage.
Yep. I know. This is why I said rated current. It was an observation over many datasheets.
Doing the calculation for cell temperature is possible, but it is much more complicated.
Sofirn sent me some early design pics.
And more changes info.
I written it detailed in the OP.
So many thing not perfectly clear but it will make happen soon.:
What about single emitter version ?
So the mechanical switch stays…any chance that they’ll sell optional flat tails?
On the top pic the left one is only one side switch version. You can see that the tailcap is shorter. I don’t know yet if itwell be choosable option or sold separately.
There is no info on single emitter version yet.
Agree. I dont need or want an extra switch in an even higher powered FET light. Just going to increase resistance or fail.
Thanks for the report Zozz!
Some comments:
- the 21700 size tube fits the C8 form factor very well
- I like the extra ‘finning’ cutouts in the head, please go for that, that would take away some of my aversion against the classic C8 design.
- My easy to mod driver size is the standard and available 17mm size, making it bigger will limit the options and so personally I find it less mod-friendly .
- I do not think that increasing the MCPCB size will make modding easier or add much performance but it does no harm either
- I do not like crenelated bezels, always sand them off, unfortunately they love them in China
- could you please convince them that mode spacing should be logarithmic? If they really want the lowest 10 lumen (I prefer a 1 lumen lowest though) with 4 modes that is 10-60-350-1800. The current groups 1&2 are useless, group 3 is not awful but the 200 lumen should be 70 to make the light increase visually a bit more even.
- I’d rather have them use a more transparant switch cover and then possibly less bright leds behind them, to get the inefficient but nice yellow leds working in the C8F I had to switch to a (spare) Q8 switch cover.
Please offer a non dual switch version of the 21700 C8F! I’m not a fan ot tail switches and much prefer side only. Or at least make a compatible no switch tail cap so we can buy it extra and change it ourselves. Pretty please! Also wouldn’t mind if Sofirn went the same route as Convoy did and go with a completely round battery tube.
Ugh no 17mm driver. Djozz can use adapter
I missed that, thanks!
I thought the size difference would be larger….but anyway, this will probably be my first Sofirn. 
The bigger driver was chosen for easier assembly. There is very little space for wires in that driver cavity. The rest I will tell them and we will se what they come up with.
Not really wrong. Because we talked about a side switch single emitter C8 here.
Now if only we can fit LED4Power’s 6-7 led mcpcb and TIR i will have multiple of these. 1 stock 1 boosted 6 or 12v one 6-7 led tir
I’m liking this new design. :+1: They could even change the milling on the head. There’s no reason it has to continue the C8 style milling.
You could always run a bypass wire/braided copper from the spring to pcb bypassing the spring and switch. You could probably still do a mechanical lock out by twisting the end cap.
You are right but having a non working switch or trying to fill that hole with something useful like a magnet is a pretty big waste. Nothing is a deal breaker I just hope they have two options if they decide to do this
I buy as many or more lights as anyone else on this forum. It’s funny how people want to have changes made to suit their own purposes when those changes would only serve a few in the overall scheme of things. There are over 20 million people in the City these lights are produced. If everyone on this forum bought a light, this would represent a sample pack to these big manufacturers. Things like crenelated bezels tell people the light is still on when they place it face down on the shelf, a safety feature. Driver and MCPCB size will never be seen by the vast majority of those who purchase these lights. The color of the lighted switch, again a thing that will be tampered with by very few in the grand scheme.
They have the money and the resources, that gives them the power to design and produce. I like it that they take cues from the community, but that certainly can’t be something that goes on and on and on… decisions are made and production is started and that is how business is done, make it and sell it, don’t dilly dally around for months figuring out what is going to happen. Surely everyone here that chimes in can see there’s a window of opportunity, like a bus stop… either get on or get off but the bus will be moving in moments either way.
- I too like the 21700 design factor.
- I too like the added cooling slots in the head, looks nice, the C8 moving forward in a technical way
- The crenelated bezel is a must for me. BUT, I don’t like a heavy crenellation, I like it for style and serviceability that prevents the light being left on in a very low mode when stored.
- Double switches are also a must for me, with power comes the responsibility to control it. Mechanical lockout is just so much safer in the long run, considering the wide array of people that will end up with this light.
x I don’t care much one way or another about lighted side switches. To me they’re mostly a battery draining nuisance. Not a deal breaker but most likely they’ll be disabled here. - I like the 17mm driver format and that’s where my monies lie, no big deal to me what they use, I’ll adapt what they supply or I’ll change it. If it’s TOO easy to mod, it isn’t a mod, and the challenge can be the biggest function of reward.
- I would really like to see more aggressive knurling, the kind that won’t slip out of a gloved hand so easily. Almost a point on top. Can shape wood with it. That’s how I’d prefer it…. really don’t like smoothed off knurling, defeats the whole point (see what I did there?)
Of course, the above is all just my opinion. Doesn’t mean a thing, really, to anyone but me… if I truly like the light and am impressed by it I could well end up buying 30-50 of them as I learn what they can and cannot do, like the Eagle Eye X6 that impressed me first. Or, I may not buy one at all. (I’ll buy one, of course, to get a real time feel for what they have done.) And so it goes, it is what it is…
I’d prefer having a 20mm driver.
It is way easier to cram a boost/buck driver with a 20mm space and then have a beast constant brightness C8.
I should add, upon further evaluation of their design options, that I prefer the smooth battery tube with flat sides to knurling on this particular light. It has a more Industrial approach with the extra cooling slots cut in the head, the side switch, and the smooth/with flats battery tube. Just an observation though.
BlueSword, where do you get this constant current Boost/Buck driver that is capable of making high amperage off a single cell?