What about the 1505? If leaning towards a zoomie, that might be a good compromise.
[quote=Mitko]
10x Killforfood
Steyr SSG 04 plus that scope is a nearly perfect combo for me….i tried to get my hands on a russian Dragunov 12.7x77 but i hit a wall, nearly impossible to get it in the EU
About the hunting arround here: its now a real paradise! jackals topped 100k this year, boars too, and hey, we do even have Linxes now! Noone spotted that bugger arround here for like a century- the main reason is that there are vast abandoned territories, ppl massibely moved to cities, thus made the wild life flurish- actualy we do have the biggest brown bear poppulation in Europe, after Russia- but there they are mainly in Ciberia and Russian Far East
And since i see a fella hunter in you, let me show you my last throphy room piece[/Quote]
That’s beautiful Mitko. I love Taxidermy that displays natural action! Your Jackals look like a large Fox or a cross breed between a Fox and Coyote. Beautiful animals.
Lynx are very rare in Oregon, you are lucky to have them. We have high numbers of Bobcat, Mountain Lion and Black Bear. We have no Brown Bear. Wolverine are occasionly seen but are still very rare. What worries me are the Wolves. Their numbers are steadily increasing and our Elk and Deer herds are suffering increased predation. Even worse, they outlawed hunting Bear and Cougar (mountain Lion) with Hounds so their numbers have also increased dramatically.
If anybody is wondering? Mitkos rifle scope combination is absolutely top quality long range gear. It would cost me about $7,000 US dollars to build that same setup.
I didn’t mean to hijack WillyD’s thread but all this hunting talk got me excited. Sorry.
WillyD, for short range, a floody beam around 600 - 1000 lumins would be plenty to search for incoming eyes.Again it does NOT need to be red. A pencil beam at close range forces you to rapidly whip the light around Checking all the possible avenues of approach. The risk that you will flash the hot spot in his eyes at close range. A floody light allows you to watch a much wider area with the spill without suddenly hitting the animal with the hot spot. You want to keep his eyes in the spill until just before the shot. When the animal is finally at the range you want him or is not coming any further, hit him with the hot spot. If that doesn’t freeze him for the shot, then a couple challenge barks should. By the way. The search light is not mounted on your weapon. If you have a good person on the search light a weapon light is not even necessary. If you do choose to mount a weapon light, that one should be a thrower with a defined hot spot collimated with your scope.
I made the housing from PETE plastic on a lathe. The componets were IRLB3034 fet,CR2016,small resistor & tape switch. Used a TO220 sized fet rated at 30A+. Used the same setup on my PT120 sans battery,easy access to positive and negative current. Did away with mag switch and enclosed Fet inside solid copper heatsink activated by small switch at original mag switch position. ALL of the above lights were positive ground using PT emitters. Someone on CPF at one time sold the “Fetie” switch for conventional negative ground lights. Same idea but use a tape switch to activate.
He did say sometimes he uses a spotter to hold the light, so what you say makes sense. Do you think a C8 would be a better host then? I personally do not like the flood that zoomies produce, but maybe it’s good for hunting. I really have no experience with hunting lights.
Thanks for information,
To me picture worth more than a thousands of words, and this deserves to be opened as a new topic at flashlight modding and diy parts category.
I am pretty sure plenty of guys would be interested in building this switch. Maybe even you could do them for us(not for free of course)?
A C8 would be fine for in close. I personally would prefer a warm color with high CRI. Seeing eyes is the easy part but as the animal comes in, at some point there will be enough lumins to make a positive ID. That’s when you need a warm LED to make colors look as natural as possible. I don’t mind modes on a hand held search light but I hate flashy modes and never change modes when an animal is coming in. It could spook them. Just my opinion but weapon mounted lights should NOT have modes.
Hope he likes what you get him.
I’ve done, sold and used plenty of single mode lights and have nothing against that but plenty of you guys would change your mind on this only if you tried flashlight with hi,med,lo without memory effect. It always starts on high and you can use med or low mode for blood trail searching or skinning (one for all).
I literary tried to fool around with it and first click is always high no matter how clumsy i pressed it. You simply can’t accidentally turn to other mode with reverse clicky switch. That could happen only with fw clicky or pressure switch if use a glove during hunting. And even then if you accidentally change to lets say medium mode of 300kcd light you will still have 150kcd for shooting.
I know that you’ll say it is not a problem to carry one more backup torch but there is really no need for that especially if your main light is high quality zoomie.
This.
Plus strong springs to suspend the battery and protect it from damage during recoil.
A good light for hunting? Other than a rifle light, I’d suggest a good, floody headlight. It’s hard to field-dress an animal in the dark, and it’s even harder holding a flashlight for yourself.
I can’t tell how many times I would have loved to have had a flashlight that would make the blood trail glow! But its shine is usually enough, even for a 2*AAA mini-Mag…
I can agree with this but ONLY if the flashlight has a quick detachable mount. The ONLY time I want to be waving my rifle around is when I’m shooting! At all other times it should be pointed at nothing interesting. Nothing makes me angrier than when some idiot uses his rifle scope to look at me. I’m not a Deer you idiot. Now put that rifle down and use your binoculars before I shoot back! Same thing with a weapon mounted light. It’s only for shooting at things. OK, off my safety rant. One other thing, the batteries will have to be super tight or it’ll change modes with every shot.
I’m not gonna lie, I had no clue what Iaculater meant and had to look it up.
Hurler.
Thrower.
Javelineer.
Yes of course it got to have quick detachable mount, and of course battery must bi tight fit with double spring( driver spring and switch spring) no freaking chance of mode changing with such configuration. Tested with magnum center fires.
You said it right… If it is not tight fitted + magnum centerfire recoil could change modes. That why we are mostly modding stuff to our needs here on BLF 
adding and bypassing quality springs on driver and switch is one of basic stuff here + I would add driver potting as must for hunting lights.
You can test weather your lights have mode changing issue during recoil with this method:
Take light in a hand, turn it on(high), and then try to simulate savage multiple throws while flashlight is firmly in your hand.
If it will not change mode it will not change it under recoil… If it changes; it is modding time 
Interesting hunting situation you had… Yes that is very irresponsible from that guy. One moment of carelessness and he could shoot you.
li= thrower flashlight
meanwhile, back at the ranch?
his buddy said “Will you build me ONE OF THESE?” and picked up a certain light… meaning, THATS the one he wanted.
how are you going to go off and build him something else? He’s gonna say “hey, you called and said you have my light??” and your gonna say “here it is…” and he’s gonna say “but… but… i asked for one of THOSE… whats this thing?”
Where did you find this, I had idea building something like this to use electronic switch instead of classical switch (also wired remote electronic switch) except I am not electronic expert and would not know how to fabricate something like this…
About the modes on hunting lights, most of folks that contact me want 1 mode only but there are other solutions that will allow more modes and avoid tripping mode change if you just briefly touch the switch. Olight is using head twisting to change modes but the best way by me is double switch, one mechanical at the back just for On/Off and one electronic in front for mode changing.
I think that, with several small improvements Crelant’s setup would be perfect for hunters, two modes (they should add one more) that you can set as you want and it always starts in first mode, if you set is as low it will start in low, if you set it as high … etc.
My rifle lights are bought/designed to stay with the rifle just like optics even if both are quick detachable. Runtime is not an issue on a weapon mounted light as it is secondary. I always use a hand held flashlight for finding game. If I have to field dress or track a headlight comes into use. Any flashlight that does everything doesn’t excell in any single use.
You talk too much Start hunting folks, here, from the last night…the distance was above 350meters …that bugger died but i cut oof the record( to avoid the drama ofc)
T20 Oslon 940nm based, Cu board( modded), emitter is running at 1.8 amps, linear driver
Do you field dress your Jackals? Do they taste like chicken? 
Aaahaha m8, you made my day We aint China dude, those aint for eating but for skiing mostly, population cotrol and sport hunting: the jackal female gave birth to 20-25 pcs every year- if you dont control their population they will literaly eat you alive, those are like small wolfes, they could easy hit 20kg, even more: Jackals arround here aint like those tiny African jackals - they are evolving, cross breeding with dogs and wolfes…nasty creatures
Plus, they eat evertything: from mean, grass, even grapes and water mellons: everything- they can enter in a watter mellon field with hundrets and destroy it in several hours
Mitko did you watched Revenant? Never say never for eating jackal
Hey “Light Hurler”
I think you may have underestimated Mitkos cartridge requirements.
This is supposed to be a prehistoric Jackal. Maybe that’s why he wants a 50 cal.
Depends what the hunter is hunting, and how.
I do a lot of night hunting on foot - mostly foxes and rabbits, but sometimes the occasional pig.
I don’t generally need mega,mega throw.
In fact too much light can be counterproductive for predator hunting.
IMO the Brinyte B158 makes for a versatile hunting light and is easily mounted on a scope - the ability to switch out the led modules is very handy. It also means a hunter can carry spares in the field in the event of a breakdown.
The standard white XM-L2 is best replaced with a hard driven XP-G2 or XP-L Hi as far as the white colour option goes.
For my own use, out to about 150m on foxes, the red pill works fine.