The problem isn’t that idiots will set themselves on fire, but that bigger idiots (politicians) go looking around for something to blame… and ban.
And they won’t blame the original idiot, but the inanimate object that does nothing on its own.
Can I just respectfully say that I didn’t really see a “massive” safety debate. One guy said it was a bad idea and a few others asked follow-up questions or voiced some level of agreement, but for the most part the vast majority of this thread ignored it altogether. I mean I don’t blame you for backing out and just avoiding the whole issue, especially since you had so little to gain anyway, but I just wanted to give a bit of perspective here. You really only had a “one bad apple….” situation, not a massive meltdown of the entire process.
And yes, I’d still happily buy a powdercoated host. Hell I’ll sign a waiver first if you want me to :laughing:
I think its a good idea, we don’t see lights blowing up. Ya your 5-6amp lights start getting hot but the cell starts fading out quickly with that current. Within the first few mins the voltage starts dropping. A lot of cells cut off at 80c but if you look at the spec sheets. The bake them in a oven for a couple hours at over 200 degrees. Look at some spec sheets its around 400 degrees where they finally get them to vent. If one is really paranoid. And not worried about water proofness. Drill a couple vent holes in the battery tube. Like all vaping devices have mine has 4 little holes for venting gas Or even put a small piece of rubber that would blow out. I don’t see any problems with this up to 3 amps. It takes my s2+ that pulls just under 6 amps about 5-6 minutes before it starts getting seriously hot to hold. And o can move my hand to the back of it and still hold it if need be. On 3 amps its around 15 mins and I can hold it and not get burned. I actuslly use ot at the 3 amp setting aboit 3.5ish at the park woth my daughters not a issue reslly. By the time ot starts to heat up. The light is sheddkng heat. Your hand is wicking heat away. Anf the cell is in steady decline.The heat will still escape, and its in your hand when it gets to hot turn the brightness down. Its really not complicated.
I do like the above idea. Include a cheap 350mah driver with a disclaimer saying any use of any other driver voids any warranty or liability including serious injury or death. Also at check out you can make a box again that says. I agree to the terms and conditions listed herein. I will use the supplied driver. Any other driver voids any liability or warranty if applied. Including but not limited to: Burns, scars, missing digits, death. And make them check that box before a order. Run it through your site. So everything is on record.
drilling those holes and cover it with black tape or some rubber plugs that pop out would be an awesome idea
@FlashPilot Ther battery in a 3A constant run C8 doesnt get hot when running it on turbo all the time.
I pulled out the battery after running it 30 minutes on 3A and it was around 45°C,
which is a quite low temperature compared to cells in a gaming laptop facing more than 60°C in some cases
especially if you hold a C8 in the hand the battery compartment doesnt even reach 40°C, as most of the heat gets absorbed by your hand
My Nitecore P12 runs quite hot with 60°C PID on the hottest part of the head, but the 2.5-3cm to the battery tube it already drops below 50°C and the tailcap has like 32°C,
so the average cell temperature will be somewhere at 43°C as the internal heat can be ignored and the heat transfer to the cell is really bad
We all know a 2.8A S2+ will get really too hot left alone, I do ceiling bounce only with the 1.4A version
a Convoy C8 with integrated head at 2.8A doesnt get to hot left alone about 55-60°C at the hottest spot, if you got DTP the LED stays for sure below 100°C
I soldered my lights with lead free solder that melts at 183°C and so far no emitter was close to desoldering itself running in turbo mode as ceiling bounce light
The gas goes to the place of least resistance it would pop the plugs out. I had a nihm cell vent in my nitecore ea41 and it bubbled the switch up. Side switches are usually a weak point in a lot of lights. It went back in place no problem but that was the path of least resistance
Edit. The cell was bad opus wouldn’t charge it anymore and was using a smart dumb charger. So it was my fault. Probably charged it that way 30-40 times before it died. Was a fairly new cell imedion. When I was fairly new to batteries I was terrified of lithium so I went with nihm high powered lights for awhile. Then protected lithiums until I got comfortable with all the safety and handling procedures now its all unprotected
It’s really a pity. Crappy made, dangerous dragster gets way more hyped than criticized and everybody and their mother can buy it for cheap from china. I really would’ve loved to ask you to coat an EE X6 for me at some point. My plan was to have it coated completely white or just bezel, body and tail and leave the fins black. Heck, I would be totally fine with installing a driver with just 2-3AMC7135 in a light for my personal use, which main purpose would be to just look freaking awesome standing next to my other builts.
I’d still be interested in this. I rarely have my torches on high and never on turbo unless by mistake or trying out a new torch.
Would it only by for hosts that you have or if we send you the torches?
Running on high/turbo isn’t a problem, it’s running the light for a long time on a mode that is high enough to overheat the battery
I’m sending a host to djozz for testing, he’s going to do temperature tests and see how far he can push it
You can send me a host too. 
I don’t run for long either!lol it’s only my head torches I have on for an hour or so.
Would you only do your hosts or happily do torches sent to you?
At the moment neither
But
- It needs to fit in the curing oven
- hosts are easier, I have old battery tubes for the convoy s2 and C8 that are cut half with a wire hook through it. when I coat the hosts I can screw the head/tail to the ‘hooked tube’ so there are no wire marks, hope that makes sense, hard to explain. But it basically means to coat a light i need another one as a sort of template, or you might see marks where the wire touches.
no worries, one was a s2, 1x A1 and 1x uniquefire 1507
i see what you mean about the wire touches. i used to work (temporarily) for versatile fittings in Bucks which did powder coating and can easily the the marks.
Yeah kinda ruins the look, the setup I use at the moment leaves no wire marks
James, when Simon returns, just build a bunch of S2+sses (this must be spelled wrong, but you know what I mean 
) with that Biscotti driver with 3x7138 chips. Then heat is a non issue. NW tint.
I take one in clear white (oh man how I would love a really nice white flashlight )
The current RED is already high in cuteness, I bet lots of folks want a cutey to gift away
And IF somebody wants to mod it into a hotrod, it is their responsibility, you deliver a safe product.
I can already see it… A shorty white S2+ with a 4000K 219C running at ~2A and a nice medium angle TIR…
First gotta use these hosts I still have laying around tho, lol (anybody have an idea for a SS 18650 host?)
White looks really cool, especially with the black clip and tail boot!
The shorty that you did was great. I’d be in for one (or more…).
That looks really great, would the cost and shipping to the U.S. make this to expensive, I haven’t gotten to converting estimated cost quoted to U.S. dollars yet,
Could a light such as a Jax X1 be done with it’s not really deep heat fins, but they are spaced a bit close together ?
If that is a problem how about a older Maxtoch with some scuffed up ano, I’m thinking as a sort of test light to see what this coating is like? Might be a great preventative against wear if this works out, plus the Looks…!
It is nice to hear everything regarding the pro’s and con’s and safety with anything really, but OK I’m done thinking about safety and more wondering about actual cost in U.S.D. and really interested.
Update:
Testing has been going on for the thermal diffusivity of the powder coated lights.
djozz has been doing the testing for the temperatures of the coated and uncoated lights.
Once the tests are finished he will make a new thread with the results
It will be soon as most testing has already been completed!
And here’s that test, it was also nice to see what the heat does in a common anodised S2+. I hope that people enjoy reading it (I do :partying_face: ): How hot does an S2+ get at 2.75A? Comparing an anodised Convoy S2+ with a fluorescent yellow powdercoated Convoy S2+