kept trying to compare, on a white wall, my new green D4S XP-L 3A to my grey D4 XP-L 3A….no way Jose!
I had to get out my Q8 to approximate the throw and brightness.
well, the protected 26650 in my Rofis MR70 will not fit in my D4S (too long)
butt I can charge the Shockli IMR26650 5500mAh from RMM in the MR70 just fine
and I can use either in the MR70 to charge anything using USB for recharge
very handy and useful
I can’t speak for vendors in other countries, but after doing some Googling it looks like all the U.S.-based vendors are out of stock, and most list a 6 week lead time.
This might be a good thing for intl-outdoor or Mountain Electronics to stock…? I’d almost certainly buy one from them (assuming the cost of shipping weren’t $8 like Mouser. :weary: )
this D4S throws just as far as my Klarus XT11GTXHP 35 Hi! I’m new here so forgive my ignorance. I showed a buddy at work my newly acquired D4S and he instantly bought one yesterday from mtn! Toykeeper, I could see the smooth ramp function on this light alone selling Big to the general public! My wife’s mom thought it was.. and I quote, “a really nice mood light” lol.
Now the momentary tactical mode In my opinion is perfect! I love that it cannot exit this mode without untwisting the tailcap for a set amount of time. This is truly a re-invention of the modern day LED flashlight. This light is actually fun to operate and learn all the modes too with the flow chart!
It’s a better mood light with Anduril installed. That adds, among other things, candle mode. Works well with a traffic wand or something over the bezel.
You should be able to check the accuracy by comparing known levels to what the computed ramp says. For example, level 85 is the 3x7135 mode and should be about 400 lm with XP-L HI emitters.
I’d suggest checking a few points along the curve, like 1, 40, 85, 120, and 150. Then adjust the parameters until all of those line up with the expected values.
Because the calculator and the actual light won’t necessarily agree, it may be necessary to split the ramp into two parts and calculate them separately. Probably levels 1 to 85 in one segment, and 86 to 150 in another segment. It’s a little tricky getting the calculated shape to match, which is why I haven’t already made a reference chart.
Additionally, the 219c curve will be different because all its FET values are multiplied by 0.8. This is because Hank was getting complaints about 219c emitters burning themselves out on turbo, so the 219c “turbo” is 80% power.
Another solution until the pogo pins arrive: just use a piece of breadboard with some crooked pin headers as the programming vias are not aligned on a 100mil grid.
It may not be the best solution, but it’s faster than connecting all 6 pins seperate each time.
Adapter for the D4S is on the left, Clip for D4 / Q8 is on the right.
Also, if you don’t have an AVR ISP but own an arduino you can program the arduino to act as an ISP.