I usually just take a single measurement and log the data by piping the output to a file, because spotread doesn’t save all the data in the log. Or just copy and paste the text from the command line window. After first calibrating, use whatever parameters and -N -O > log.txt
Can somebody tell me how to calibrate the colors on a projector connected to one of those stupid fruit-branded all-in-one desktop computers? At our church, the media computer is a Mac of some sort, a few years old. The projector is connected by HDMI over Thunderbolt, IIRC. The colors are horrible! Blues are over-saturated while reds are badly washed-out. I tried the on-board “monitor calibration” …thing on the Mac, but it only had brightness, contrast, maybe gamma, but no per-color-channel fixing. The projector itself has per-color-channel controls, but they don’t help, so the problem seems to be in the signal from the Mac! The LCD monitors connected to the Mac show colors “fine” though. Just the projector doesn’t. So, I don’t know what the deal is actually. Help?
I downloaded the "White Balance Color Temp Meter" to my Pixel 3 and tried it out. Readings were taken on lower modes, in a dark room, with a sheet of printer paper as the backdrop.
Rovyvon Aurora A8
Olight S1R
Nitecore TUP, LH351D mod
FW3A (3D)
Nitecore P18, XHP35 Hi swap
Armytek Elf C2 (Warm)
Expected
5000
6000
5000
5000
4500
4000
Test 1
4600
5320
4660
4540
3810
3620
Test2
4510
5380
4440
4440
4300
3750
Average
4555
5350
4550
4490
4055
3685
Difference
-445
-650
-450
-510
-445
-315
I have no source for the Elf C2 CCT and guessed at the expected value. If I shift all the values up by 500, using the average of two readings:
Rovyvon Aurora A8
Olight S1R
Nitecore TUP, LH351D mod
FW3A (3D)
Nitecore P18, XHP35 Hi swap
Armytek Elf C2 (Warm)
Expected
5000
6000
5000
5000
4500
4000
Corrected average
5055
5850
5050
4990
4555
4185
These now fall within about 150K of the values I was expecting. Taking more samples would likely improve the consistency as well. Very promising!
Yes, of course. I know, for example, those 4500K XHP35 Hi LEDs tend to measure cooler than advertised. I mostly want to be able to loosely quantify CCT for my reviews, and for that I think a 250K or 500K range gives people enough of an idea.
Yes. It’s still good for LED measurements although the i1Studio/Colormunki Photo may be cheaper and practically just as good for what we do. I like the Babelcolor CT&A, which doesn’t work with the i1Studio.
That one was cheaper than I1studio /Colormunki Photo so i am testing it now :)
I see in the OP that you were using spotread with -a (ambient), was that with the I1pro ?
I am asking because despite having an ambient measurement cap with my I1pro, Argyllcms returns a "Requested ambient light capability, and instrument doesn't support it." error when i try to use the -a instead of -e
An other question : Do you use the ambient measurement cap (ref 609192) ? If i don't use it the sensor is easily saturated but when i try to use it the CCT seems to be off