What did you mod today?

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EasyB
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Skylight wrote:
I swapped the dedomed 3V XHP50.2 in my Nightwatch NI40 for a shaved SST70 6500K. More fotos can be found here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/69465#comment-1570536

!{width:40%}[img]https://i.imgur.com/6saSkOW.jpg[/img]!


Nice job. That is a new and interesting LED. The dies are very close together so should make a nice intense beam. Did you happen to get a precise measurement of the dimensions of the dies?

Edit: I guess we can assume it has 7mm^2 total area based on luminus naming. The xhp35 has 6.25mm^2 based on my measurements and the xhp50.2 has 8mm^2 (though the xhp50.2 effective area is a bit bigger because of the space between the dies).

JaredM
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I did some pixel counting measurements and it does appear to be 7.0mm^2. It seems that this emitter is putting out about 80% lumens/mm^2 vs both the SST20 and 40. So it’s fair to predict that this SST70 will provide 35HI throw with a proportional 15-20% bump in lumens according to die size.

{sending prayers for HiCRI and 3V versions} Since it’s based on 4xSST20 dies HiCRI it might have a chance of happening. Looking at the bond wire configuration, it looks like we’re stuck with 6V..

Skylight, are you able to take any relative output measurements ?

Skylight
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EasyB wrote:
Skylight wrote:
I swapped the dedomed 3V XHP50.2 in my Nightwatch NI40 for a shaved SST70 6500K. More fotos can be found here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/69465#comment-1570536

Nice job. That is a new and interesting LED. The dies are very close together so should make a nice intense beam. Did you happen to get a precise measurement of the dimensions of the dies?

Edit: I guess we can assume it has 7mm^2 total area based on luminus naming. The xhp35 has 6.25mm^2 based on my measurements and the xhp50.2 has 8mm^2 (though the xhp50.2 effective area is a bit bigger because of the space between the dies).

I didn’t measure the die size. I could have done that but it’s too late as it is mounted now. It is quite a bit smaller than the dedomed XHP50.2 and more like the die size of a SST40.

Skylight
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JaredM wrote:
I did some pixel counting measurements and it does appear to be 7.0mm^2. It seems that this emitter is putting out about 80% lumens/mm^2 vs both the SST20 and 40. So it’s fair to predict that this SST70 will provide 35HI throw with a proportional 15-20% bump in lumens according to die size.

{sending prayers for HiCRI and 3V versions} Since it’s based on 4xSST20 dies HiCRI it might have a chance of happening. Looking at the bond wire configuration, it looks like we’re stuck with 6V..

Skylight, are you able to take any relative output measurements ?

I’m waiting for a high CRI or 5000K version as well. It should have a rosy tint because the one I used is rather green.

At the moment I can’t take any measurements, only comparisons with other flashlights and beamshots. The hotspot and throw is similar to the FT03 SST40.

A light meter and a clamp meter are on the way, though. Big Smile

DB Custom
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Not sure about that particular Olight SammysHP but most Batons (or the ones I have) are using the positive end of the cell at the tail of the light. Positive through the host body? This set up is a large reason I don’t have more Olight flashlights.

The_Fat_Controller
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M21A , 6a Convoy driver Culnm1.tg

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DB Custom wrote:
Not sure about that particular Olight SammysHP but most Batons (or the ones I have) are using the positive end of the cell at the tail of the light. Positive through the host body? This set up is a large reason I don’t have more Olight flashlights.

Yes, the host body is positive. Not a big issue as long as the heat shrink tube of the battery is intact.
Catnap
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I modded my s2+ driver to dual channel 1× 7135 + 10× 7135 and added an otc capacitor for the Blf a6 firmware by toykeeper. I removed one 7135 regulator from the 8× 7135 group by cutting its vcc track underneath the attiny13 and bridged it to pin 5 instead to create the new 1× 7135 group.

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Cool mod. Really great photo too!

Do you know about HQ’s 10x driver board? You can swap all the parts over and use up to 10×7135 without stacking.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

MRsDNF
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Nice work Catnap. Beer

 

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                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

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Unloco
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Catnap wrote:
I modded my s2+ driver to dual channel 1× 7135 + 10× 7135 and added an otc capacitor for the Blf a6 firmware by toykeeper. I removed one 7135 regulator from the 8× 7135 group by cutting its vcc track underneath the attiny13 and bridged it to pin 5 instead to create the new 1× 7135 group.


WOW!

Cereal_killer wrote:
Cool mod. Really great photo too!

+1
Hemionline
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Eagletac G25C2"diffuser":

g25c2host with p25lc2 diffuser circuit board and led's. 

 

 

JaredM
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Awesome x1000 Hemionline Thumbs Up

I love the G25C2 to begin with. (One of my favorite looking lights and just the right size IMO)

EasyB
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Did a driver and FW mod on my H03 headlamp. I switched to a simple 8×7135 driver for the current regulation (I had a FET driver with TK’s old ramping UI prior to this). The driver is a 17mm qlite and I used a brass 17-to-22mm converter ring from convoy. I had to sand down the OD for it to fit, and I also sanded down the thickness a bit for a good fit.

I have put a lot of thought into what modes and UI is ideal for this light. I like the ability to start in low by pressing and holding and the ability to move up or down in brightness, which the ramping UI provides. Smooth ramping is nice especially in the lower modes where preserving your nightvision is important, but it’s not ideal in the higher modes when you are more concerned with managing runtime and/or heat. My solution for this light was to modify the ramping table to have smooth(ish) ramping from moonlight to around 40 lumens, then stepped ramping after that. Here’s the ramping table I used:
0,6,6,6,6,6,6,7,7,7,7,7,8,8,8,8,9,9,9,10,10,10,11,11,11,12,12,12,5,13,13,13,
13,13,13,13,13,13,13,13,46,46,46,46,46,46,46,46,
46,46,46,127,127,127,127,127,127,127,127,127,127,127,255,255

JaredM
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EasyB wrote:
I have put a lot of thought into what modes and UI is ideal for this light. I like the ability to start in low by pressing and holding and the ability to move up or down in brightness, which the ramping UI provides. Smooth ramping is nice especially in the lower modes where preserving your nightvision is important, but it’s not ideal in the higher modes when you are more concerned with managing runtime and/or heat. My solution for this light was to modify the ramping table to have smooth(ish) ramping from moonlight to around 40 lumens, then stepped ramping after that. Here’s the ramping table I used: 0,6,6,6,6,6,6,7,7,7,7,7,8,8,8,8,9,9,9,10,10,10,11,11,11,12,12,12,5,13,13,13, 13,13,13,13,13,13,13,13,46,46,46,46,46,46,46,46, 46,46,46,127,127,127,127,127,127,127,127,127,127,127,255,255

I like the hybrid ramping concept. It’s funny because just last night I switched my FW1A back and forth from stepped to smooth a couple of times. This would be nice to have..

gchart
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EasyB wrote:
My solution for this light was to modify the ramping table to have smooth(ish) ramping from moonlight to around 40 lumens, then stepped ramping after that.

Interesting solution, EasyB. I could see that being pretty nice. Might have to give it a shot sometime.
DB Custom
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I can only assume the 5 between 12 and 13 is a typo.

EasyB
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DB Custom wrote:
I can only assume the 5 between 12 and 13 is a typo.

That is there to let me know I’m at the top of the smooth ramp when I’m ramping up. Otherwise it’s easy to go too far and hit the much brighter next mode.
Chatika vas Paus
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I put 219b sw35 from azhu to my D18. I had many problems along the way (such as uneven mcpcb) and everything went wrong (for example, hot air stopped working half way through), but somehow I got to the end. I wanted to do it by the end of last year, but well…
I know that some LEDs are not soldered evenly, but this is not visible under the tir.
Considering all adversities, I am very pleased.

MT18S sst20 4000k – D18 219b 3500k (frosted tir)

jon_slider
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Chatika vas Paus wrote:
I put 219b sw35


congrats on the mod!
very nice photos

WTB Novatac Pocket Clip

Scientist
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I put a high power 395nm UV led from vestureofblood into a Sofirn SC31B http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1609110#comment-1609110

Please illuminate responsibly
Part time fragmented conciousness technician

UV triple using Sofirn C8F
395nm High Power LED in Sofirn SC31b

DB Custom
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CVP, that’s a complex job isn’t it? I did a friends and now will be redoing it with XP-L HI’s this coming week, I remember it was a tedious time consuming mod so hats off to you for sticking with it and getting a satisfying result. Thumbs Up

djozz
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I modded an old-style recoil thrower today, a clone of the Ultrafire WF-008, from aliexpress, thread here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/71005

xevious
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djozz wrote:
I modded an old-style recoil thrower today, a clone of the Ultrafire WF-008, from aliexpress, thread here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/71005

Neat! I’m eager to read up on that. Beer
grin
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Wanted to get longer run time and what do you know the Astrolux battery tube screws straight on. Acebeams battery carriers will not fit in the tube and the Astrolux battery carriers and spacer/connector are about 5mm to long. so you have to mod the battery carriers to 4s and I took the 5mm of the spacer/connector.

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CRX CuTi Atom Triple Nichia 219C 5000K - Lexel TA Driver - 18350 - E-Tail Sw - 2200lm.CRX CuTi Atom Triple Nichia 219C 5000K - Lexel TA Driver - 18350 - E-Tail Sw - 2200lm....

CRX Utility Keyring - CRX CuTi Atom Nichia 219C, DQG Hobi+ 365nm UV & Petrol Lighter, 1.6W 450nm Blue Laser.

CRX CuTi 18350 1A Pocket Charger.CRX CuTi 18350 1A Pocket Charger.

 

mitsuki08
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Swapped and sliced an LH351D into a BLF A6. First time to do any modding. Used some standard office staple wires instead of washers as a slicing guide since I don’t have any around. Used 2 staple wires to be exact and it seems like it did the job well but YMMV. I double checked the clearance first so I don’t hit the phosphor.

EDIT: see underlined.

DB Custom
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Nice work! While you don’t want to chip the phosphor (UV blue leakage) it’s the bond wires you really want to avoid in most cases. I find that the LB351D doesn’t actually respond well to slicing. YMMV

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DB Custom wrote:
Nice work! While you don’t want to chip the phosphor (UV blue leakage) it’s the bond wires you really want to avoid in most cases. I find that the LB351D doesn’t actually respond well to slicing. YMMV

I sliced a 5000k LH351D and ended up with great results. Dropped the CCT by a few hundred kelvin, I’d estimate it to sit around 4400-4500k and doesn’t appear to be green.

djozz
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The 5000K dogfart led is the best for slicing IMO, only limited output loss and great tint improvement by decreasing the duv.

I would worry a bit about that conductive spacer you used Sad

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