Ahh, ok. I'll have to try this next time. Thanx!
Those Knipex at $53 discounted are a big investment, but might be worth buying if I had other uses. But they look like a smooth finish jaw so not sure if they can hold the MCPCB very well.
I got a few locking pliers types, but again not sure bout the teeth and adding cushioning. Some have teeth that are too big, or deep teeth that are hard to cushion. I'll have to see.
Maybe Harbor Freight has something cheaper than the Knipex?
We call tongue and groove pliers “Channel Locks” and locking pliers “Vice Grips,” though that might not be the real names. Never heard them called anything else, but a rose by any name would smell as sweet.
I ordered a Convoy M21C from Banggood. I just checked for an update and I realized that the shipping method says “Ocean Shipping.”
Does that mean the slow boat from China, or could it be the name of a shipping company based out of China that ships by air, and sea.
I think it’s transliterated from Oh Shin Shi Ping.
My first laugh out loud in a few weeks. Thanks! I needed a nice, big laugh out loud.
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Thanks Lightbringer, I have to clean the coffee off my keyboard now. LOL!!! 
I actually just used a pair of channel lock/tongue-and-groove pliers for the first time today for swapping a boat trailer jack… I’m buying some ASAP. SO much faster than setting an adjustable wrench.
Anyone know if the pocket clips are interchangeable between the FW3A and FW21A?
The diameters are different, so no interchangeability.
I used wikipedia to get the name. I knew the polish name, went to the right article and switched language. 
We usually call them slip-joint pliers…. sometimes channel locks. Never heard tongue and groove tho(except for flooring and other wood products) Not sure how big the piece you are trying to hold but I use hemostats(medical pliers) for holding small stuff…… works really well.
I tried that before as well while shrinking a MCPCB from 20 to 10 mm. After adding cushion to the jaws they wouldn’t keep it securely. Maybe a different cushion material would work better but that’s what I came up with quickly. 
Ive used buckskin leather and it worked well
Nitecore D10 Issues
I am based in the UK
A double click on the button should ramp down the light from x (high) to y (off) gradually. Removing the finger from the button should stop the ramping somewhere between x and y.
Mine doesn’t do this. It is either on or off. Does this mean that the circuitry is shot? Is it resettable/repairable or have I just got a single mode torch/flashlight?
Thanks a lot for any words of advice.
What’s the state of development on LEP? Do folks here think it’ll be a killer of LED-throwers? Might some makers combine an LEP (throw) with LED (spill) for the “near perfect” flashlight?
I hope more LEP lights become available, less expensively. I think it will happen, but probably not for quite a while.
I can see these may be useful - parallel fish & tackle pliers with neoprene pads.
Pic clicks to arbitrary store.
I've known them as channel lock pliers, but that's a brand name apparently. A quick google for either term gives a good idea.
Sorry the Knipex were half-joking. They are expensive, but an interesting alternative to a crescent or adjustable wrench. They are a particularly expensive example of a Knipex wrench - however, my Knipex tools are my nicest tools by far. I am sure they will outlast all my other tools, and me.
Please don't use those on nuts/bolts! Anything with teeth should stay far from nuts and bolts.
Slip-joint! Yes, heard that term as well. As for hemostats... Forceps to me! I use forceps routinely when soldering - it's a tricky thing to keep them from buggering up the wires.
What type of cell are you using? Alkaline, NiMh/NiCd, Lithium Ion, Lithium Primary?
May be worth also asking this thread.
Cool! Useful indeed.