Unsliced, the stock led gave slight artifacts, my guess is that with a large die that becomes less, hopefully. And indeed, a headlamp needs a good flood, the throw is a helpful bonus but extreme throw is not needed (got extreme throw covered already with other lights).
I’m not a driver guru, not in skills but also not in my needs, as long as the driver has some useful modes and does not have horrible pwm, I’m fine.
Finished the mod, just swapped led with a 3500K LH351D, glued the PCB back in place with AAA and pressed the alu ring in again. The beam is still far from perfect, not in flood, not in spot. But the tint makes this now a very pleasant headlamp for someone who is not a snob, also because of the charging port. I have some protected NCR18650B cells somewhere, with these it is a nice gift for a camper.
The anod is welded together with a small resistor and lot of blow
Previous image was enlarger,working space is small for the point of my 60W Iron solder
otherwise I cut Led :)?
Afer the use I found slight unscrewed the pill on my s2+, could have as a consequence bad pressure of the mcpcb on shelf surface.I added another retainer ring(also right washers should be fine)take from a junk light that now lock the pill.It also secured by the pressure of battery tube.
If you like this hobby enough, get a hot air station. Getting components onto and off boards is a breeze with it.
Or, a smaller soldering tip from Aliexpress.
Hey Sari33, I’d recommend taking the extra retaining ring out of the S2+ head. Normally the head screws onto the body (battery tube) until they meet. There should not be a gap between the head and the body. The body does not need to touch the driver retainer ring.
Where there should be a gap is at the tail. That’s where the body touches the switch retaining ring or housing and allows the flashlight to be locked out by slightly turning the tail.
No,sorry maybe the barrier languages.
First I tightened the pill then I put the retaining ring, this because I founded the pill a little unscrewed last time and now Is secure pressed.
I turned the diffuser into anti-glaring hat for a bicycle flashlight, which is to prevent dazzling people from the opposite direction. It didn’t look very nice, but it works.
Whether or not a retaining ring is used has a lot to do with the type of driver. Some, with a ring of 7135 regulators need the retaining ring to be filed out on the inside to clear the 7135’s or are soldered in place instead of modding the retainer ring.
Finally got the boards in to convert my Amutorch E3 to Anduril2 with RGB Aux LEDs. It was a very tedious mod, but after a couple setbacks I think it turned out really well. I made a custom attiny1616-based FET+1 driver and used Loneoceans’s RGB Aux board for the FW3x series.
Replaced Thrunite Cat6 V2 reflector with TIR Optic.
The inspiration for this mod was the result of seeing user reviews of the Manker MK37 and U22III lights with large TIR optics. I was able to find a similar looking optic on AE.
The Thrunite Cat6 V2 reflector cavity/dimensions (~ 52x29 mm) worked well for this optic, which measures 47mm dia x 29mm ht. The hardest part of this mod (or any mod where reflector or optics are involved) was getting it properly centered and focused.
Optic (slightly lowered to help focus) with DIY spacer/centering ring.
FWIW in the screen captures (see below) from BLF member andreas0401’s video review of the Manker U22 III one can see the result of this optic vs a traditional reflector, in that case using the SBT90.2 emitter. I get analogous results with the Cat6 and XHP35.
White-wall shot showing traditional reflector hotspot from U21 vs the new optic in Cat6
Screen capture from andreas0401 video illustrating this optic in the field, broader hotspot w/less defined spill (NOT the Cat6 in photos)
Unlike most mods the result was not more OTF light, just less as spill.