I’d settle for an SP10s with a basic UI that doesn’t suck. Seeing it run anduril is badass. Maybe they’ll actually do it…
I want one. Oh who am I kidding, one in every color. Very cool.
I would never trade the ability to use alkaline and nimh in this light for the andruil interface. It is a huge utilitarian benefit to be able to use three different batteries. The andruil interface won’t do any for you if you need a light and you happen to have this one with a bunch of alkalines.
Umm… zoulas? Did you happen to watch the video I just posted?
I will take it! (with a tail switch)
give the man a Cigar!
gchart, you Rock!
You are the first to create a hardare combination capable of running Anduril from AA battery.
that is a very nice looking light you built…
congrats,
this thread started 2 years ago
so glad all the talk is finally over (or not)… lol
OP is updated with the big and great news. :-) I try to get more news from Sofirn at the end of next week. Currently, they face a considerable bottleneck of Andúril-compatible MCUs being unavailable. Let’s hope the supply situation will soon get better, so they can make our dreams come true.
I’m in.
I wonder which of the Andurils we should ask for? They already have a good manual and flow chart for V1 so maybe they’ll want to use the same
I didn’t, but I did now, COOL.
So when can we buy this thing?
what a cool light.
I'm in for a few.
Great work.
If I am not totally mistaken we (i.e. Sofirn + BLF members involved into the development) try to make sure that using Turbo mode in Andúril 2 will work the same way as it does in Andúril 1. Apart from that I see nothing but benefits in using version 2. I agree the flow chart maybe deserves some „simplification“ (?) and the fully detailed manual is something to work on as well. OTOH, the one from TK is quite useful already.
Darn, I just bought one. It’s been so long I didn’t think it would happen. I don’t mind the UI too much but would rather have Anduril 1 or 2. I like double click from off for turbo but I’m not crazy about press and hold for off.
Very nice gchart!
Hope Sofirn will choice rosy bin neutral warm Leds and smoother knurling for this beauty
AFAIK, Sofirn has no possibility to select a specific flux bin or even a specific chromaticity bin when sourcing LEDs from their supplier(s). Maybe it’s not that bad actually and it just requires us to point them to the right order code, so they know better what to look for? For instance, the LH351D 5000K (potential „dogfarts“) in their new TF84 model has an awesome nice rosy tint…
I will try again to send them the right chromaticity bins to look for…
BTW, I’ve had this guy up and running since December. I know that it’s been a while. And I hadn’t posted a video, just talked about it. But I did post some runtime graphs in this post
Yes Bin under BBL like U6/V4
The best would be they can find Nichia 219B NVSL219BT-V1 D200
Dang. If this happens I will buy many!
Skills: very detail oriented, patient, and decent soldering abilities
Materials: attiny816 or 1616, my PCB, solder paste, desoldering braid or solder sucker
Equipment: soldering iron, a hotplate or hot air station, UPDI programmer
Process:
- File any excess off the PCB and clean it up
- Apply a small amount of solder paste to the PCB
- Carefully align the attiny on the board
- Reflow it with a hotplate or hot air
- Touch up any solder bridges with your iron
- Flash the firmware onto the attiny
- Remove bezel and reflector from SP10S
- Desolder the LED wires and gently push them into the holes they’re fed through
- Push something like a toothpick through one of the holes and up against the outer rim of the driver, gently tap on it to break the driver free (it’s lightly glued in place). Try not to damage the LED wires or any driver components
- Take the driver and desolder the two boards (it’s a T-shape 2-part driver)
- Remove the existing MCU. Hot air really helps here
- Solder the attiny adapter board in place, paying close attention to orientation
- Reverse the process to put everything back together
Were it not for the global microcontroller shortage, I’d offer to send you a ready-to-go adapter board. But as it stands, I only have a couple attiny’s left and probably can’t get anymore for several months. That could also be part of the reason that this project has been quiet lately.
Thank you so much for the detailed reply gchart, it’s truly appreciated. Likewise, congrats on Sofirn picking the light up for production.
While I will definitely buy a few from Sofirn when available this has sparked my interest in getting more involved in the DIY side of this hobby - I have just ordered a soldering iron to practice with and spent my Sunday reading about using a convection oven for reflow - so much to learn but I’m excited to learn the skills. Thank you once again :+1: