Sofirn SP10 Pro (AA/14500/Andúril 2) - now available!

[jon_slider]

@Discharger

2700K version of the SP10 Pro

If you want to learn how to do the LED swap yourself, here is a photo album showing the process:

[Album] Sofirn SP10 PRO LED swap

You can also hire someone to change the LED for you.

@darosk

Did a quick swap to 519a 4500K

Much nicer. Still considering a dedome, but it might be too pink for me at that point.

It is not very pink… here is the difference

Dome On:
.

Dome Off
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[darosk]

Jon, I don’t share your experience

This was my result dedoming 4500k

Locked to 4500K but in person it was that pink. Entirely too rosy for me

[jon_slider]

@darosk

Entirely too rosy for me

Thanks for the photo. You might like 519a 5700K Dome On (on left)

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Here is Opple comparison of the 519a 5700K compared to daylight where I am. You are located 30 degrees closer to the equator. That may be part of the reason we like different tints ;-):
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[Firelight2]

@kokosnh

The problem is elsewhere, as the tail cup just hit the tube lip, and I can’t screw it deaper, to make the contact with the tail

Sounds like you have a defective unit. Note that it might not be the tailcap. It could be the back of the tube is too short.

It might be a good idea to test to make sure that the tailcap contact is the problem.

• To test, take off the tailcap and insert the battery,
• bridge the edge of the body tube to the back of the battery with something conductive like long-nose pliers.
• Attempt to turn on the light. If it works, then tailcap contact is confirmed to be the problem.

Assuming the contact between the tailcap and tube is the problem, rather than returning it, there is a simple fix:

• Cut a small piece of something conductive, such as bare wire, copper solder braid, even part of a small paperclip.
• Bend your conductive material into a “C” ring and fit it into the bottom of the tailcap to act as a spacer between the tailcap and the tube.
• Alternative, you can cut sheet copper or brass into a washer shape to accomplish the same thing. I recommend cutting your spacer slightly large so it locks behind the tailcap threads and is less likely to fall out.

This fix should solve the problem and give you a working light.

[Discharger]

@jon_slider

@Discharger

2700K version of the SP10 Pro

If you want to learn how to do the LED swap yourself, here is a photo album showing the process:
Sofirn SP10 PRO LED swap - Album on Imgur

You can also hire someone to change the LED for you.

@darosk

Did a quick swap to 519a 4500K

Much nicer. Still considering a dedome, but it might be too pink for me at that point.

It is not very pink… here is the difference

Dome On:
.

Dome Off
.

Thank you Jon_Slider, great information there but looks quite daunting to me! I could pay someone I guess to make one for me, but including the astronomical postage from the USA, I think I will have to make do with my poor cousin version I have put together using Lee Zircon filters…

[Tendou]

@SammysHP

A slightly shorter version with TIR and 1x 519a would be awesome.

I agree with this. There is not many competition for a shorter version with dual fuel AA/14500 lights.

[supreme]

Anyone have a link to the source code? I can find the hex but don’t want to decompile just to look at the source and see if I can modify the code

[SammysHP]

@supreme

Anyone have a link to the source code? I can find the hex but don’t want to decompile just to look at the source and see if I can modify the code

Do you mean this here? anduril2 : Code : Flashlight Firmware Repository

[supreme]

I think so? This is my first attempt at editing code and compiling. Looking at the notes on the page it seems the latest revision would work for the sp10 pro.

[MascaratumB]

Stupid question, but: is there a place in the SP10 Pro driver to which we can add some wires to control aux leds like the ones in the TS10 MCPCB?

Thanks in advance

[thefreeman]

@MascaratumB

Stupid question, but: is there a place in the SP10 Pro driver to which we can add some wires to control aux leds like the ones in the TS10 MCPCB?

Thanks in advance :+1:

There are no extra pads, you can solder directly on the pins with thin magnet wire but it’s meticulous work. I’ve already done it while debugging drivers. Using a corner pin is less difficult.

Picture from r/flashlight

[SammysHP]

Of course: the microcontroller itself. Just add a LED with a resistor to the appropriate pin. Well, soldering to it might be difficult.

[MascaratumB]

@thefreeman

@MascaratumB

Stupid question, but: is there a place in the SP10 Pro driver to which we can add some wires to control aux leds like the ones in the TS10 MCPCB?

Thanks in advance :+1:

There are no extra pads, you can solder directly on the pins with thin magnet wire but it’s meticulous work.

Picture from r/flashlight

Thanks for thre reply, thefreeman :+1:

Hum, when you are said the pins, which ones should I be aiming at? Also, how thick/thin, show the wire be?

I am not sure if am fit for these adventures but…I guess I would try since I have some spare material!

[thefreeman]

Both pins on the bottom right corners (15/PC0 and 16/PC1) appear to be free.
Something like 32AWG or smaller, the enamelled wire I use is 36AWG

[MascaratumB]

@SammysHP

Of course: the microcontroller itself. Just add a LED with a resistor to the appropriate pin. Well, soldering to it might be difficult.

Thanks SammyHP!
Hum, getting the resistor is probably harder for me (although I am not pro in mircosoldering )

But, again, I might try it :innocent:

[MascaratumB]

@thefreeman

Both pins on the bottom right corners (15/PC0 and 16/PC1) appear to be free.
Something like 32AWG or smaller, the enamelled wire I use is 36AWG

Thank you once again for the reply and “directions”
I will see what I can get and do
If I succed, I will post it here !! And if not…I will post it too

[contactcr]

A reference from the datasheet for those of us who are not intimately familiar with microcontrollers:

[MascaratumB]

@contactcr

A reference from the datasheet for those of us who are not intimately familiar with microcontrollers:

This may be handy, thank you contactcr

[MascaratumB]

Hum…well, when I got home I went to check the spare driver I have and…I guess I would fail completely to solder such thin wires there :o
That thing is tinier than I could remember and my skills and iron and not fit for the job after all

So, I will pass this possibility ti have an SP10 Pro with aux leds. For now
Thanks for your replies folks

[thefreeman]

All pin 16 17 and 18 look free, so you could solder a wire without caring much about solder brides between those pins.