I just took out a 2.5V 14500, because I thought I just had not calibrate the thermal sensor, and that's why it was stepping down. And I was just forcing it to go up...
When I did 3C it just blinked 7 time, and that was not what I was expecting, so took out the battery to see the voltage...
I thought It would just turn off, and then not turn on under 2.75V or so.
I know the 1.5V Ni-MH don't have the LVP, but the Li-ion mode should have one, right?
Do I just need to buy a protected 14500 cell?
stepping down can happen due to heat, or also due to low battery
here is how the LVP Step Down and Thermal Step Down, is described in the Anduril 2 Manual:
“Anduril includes low voltage protection (LVP) and thermal regulation.
LVP makes the light step down to a lower level when the battery is low,
and if the light is already at the lowest level, it shuts itself off.
This activates at 2.8V. LVP adjustments happen suddenly, in large
steps.
Thermal regulation attempts to keep the light from overheating, and
otherwise adjusts output to stay as close as possible to the
user-configured temperature limit. Thermal adjustments happen
gradually, in steps so small they are difficult for humans to perceive.”
> I was just forcing it to go up
not a good habit, as this defeats the step downs by repeated use
> I thought It would just turn off, and then not turn on under 2.75V or so.
good thought, but if you turn it on after it shuts off, you are defeating the protection system
Learn to check battery voltage sooner… Recharge any time the battery goes below 3.6V. Do not wait for LVP.
> Do I just need to buy a protected 14500 cell?
you could, but, that creates a slightly different problem. With a protected cell, it can shut the light off suddenly and completely, even if the battery is not empty, if you try to use too high an output. I consider sudden darkness very UnDesireable, so I dont use protected batteries.
I have been on vacation with my SP10 PRO as my sole torch for the last week. I’m running a standard eneloop straight from the package. The performance has been beyond my expectations. I have run the light as a ceiling bouncer, shuffle to the loo illuminator, and rigging out pre-dawn fishing gear. I have well over 3 hours on the cell with no discernable loss of output. What a great combo.
Kudos to jon_slider for pointing out all the good things low and slow with this light.
little update, on my SP10 pro magnetic tail drama.
Contacted the ali store, they refused to send a good one for free
(had to pay 0.8$ for shipping with tracking, well i can understand that, and it was comparable, to getting the old one refunded, and buying new one, so I accepted it)
after 3 weeks I got it, and well this one surely won't work.
Yes that's the 18650 one, for SC31 pro and so on, not the 14500 for SP10 pro.
Ps. I do have SC31 pro, but I have black one, and I already bought a magnetic tail for it, so this one is useless for me, at this time.
I ordered the SP10 Pro and magnetic tail cap direct from their Chinese store (not AliExpress.) The correct one arrived luckily. I’ve had similar experiences on AliExpress with other sellers- they refuse to replace faulty/ incorrect goods and want you to pay postage when it’s their fault. I just don’t buy anything else off them ever again.
Don’t have right hardware now and I lack of experience, risk to brick driver.
I wonder why Sofirn doesn’t correct by flash right FW .
Blink is present even in HS10 headlamp with propietary ramp UI
little update, on my SP10 pro magnetic tail drama.
They refused to send another, and demanded I buy something and they will just add it to the box. So I bought LT1 and they did add it but...
Well they did send a working one this time, but starting to think they are doing it on purpose.
And I know what's wrong with the first one.
The outer size is really close, even a tiny bit shorter for the green one
13.857-13.861mm for green
13.861-13.866mm for black
The problem is with the depth of the contact surface in the tail.
8.90-9.05mm for green
8.16-8.25mm for black
hopefully you can find a way for the green tailcap to make contact with the end of the body tube,
some options:
use parts from the black tailcap
or
add something that works as a contact ring between tailcap and end of body tube…
for example,
some people use a copper washer, some use a bent piece of paperclip wire… does not really matter what you use, it just needs to make contact between the tailcap and the end of the body tube
or, the most destructive and non reversible option:
remove some of the anodising from the body and tailcap threads, so they become part of the electrical path
suggestion, in future, dont waste time trying to negotiate with customer service… use Paypal Dispute for item not as described, and just get a refund. Then buy again.