Congrats on the build! I have yet to build an actual flashlight yet, I just seem to be acquiring more and more parts that I will eventually use. (Or so I say)
Quick tip: to bridge the mode-select star, just tin the end of a piece of wire (I have some old single-strand telephone wire that works perfectly) and solder that between the star and the outer ring, then just trim the excess. It makes a very neat, clean, and solid connection, and is a lot easier than trying to bridge a solder glob.
Hey Ouchyfoot, great job on the build! I’ve always loved the F8 gold version. But after purchasing the F12 and having issues with battery fitment, it turned me off to the purchase. But looking at yours, it’s got my eye again and may just pick one up.
I have a 5A ramping driver from FT in the mail. I was thinking about the EDC Plus TorchLite host, but I haven’t asked anyone if it will be suitable for that host with an XM-L, or XM-L2 yet.
I also forgot to mention that the Roche F8 manages heat extremely well.
I was thinking of the 5A FT ramper because of the 10mm height, as compared to the IOS one that is 17mm. I haven’t got my host yet, so I haven’t measured anything. I figured the lower profile would save a bite of headache for installation. I also am thinking that a ramper might be easier to manage and control heat…but what do I know.
That really is a great looking light you built there. That soldering work to the retaining ring looks very professional to me.
I built an SV-D7 with XM-L2. I’m getting 2.86amps at the tail with a 3T6 type driver. I’m told this works out to about 4.5 amps. The emitter seems happy with no sign of angry blue. I need to check the temp at the emitter to verify though. I’ve read that XM-L2 can handle 5amps if properly heatsinked. A good thing about the SV-D7 is that the pill is brass. So you can reflow a copper sinkpad directly to it for a very good thermal link up. I used a thin copper slug under my sinkpad to get the emitter up to the base of the reflector.
I would say the SV-D7 is the max throw I would want in a general usage type of light. For my situation it works great. If you are looking for more flood and a little less throw (but still a lot of throw), you may want a HD-2010.
@Ouchyfoot - Thanks for the review and the photos. Looking at the finned part of the head, do you think it possible to drill hiles through the fins and install tritium? From the photos it looks like it can be done. Could you measure the length of the finned part with a rule please?