inside the acebeam K40M - lots of pics and NOW modded!

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M4D M4X
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inside the acebeam K40M - lots of pics and NOW modded!

Hey guys!

there are a lot of good reviews showing the acebeam K40M as anyone can see it.

I try to get inside…

a pic of the well known batteriecarrier – works both sides

my Panasonic NCR18560B with 70mm fit – but tiiiight!

yes – 3S1P

if you look inside the tailcap you see a brass retaining ring (the scratches are not from me!)

using needle nose pliers to unscrew lets you get to the tailcapswitchrubber…

a slightly press and it pops out so you can replace it

the parts

the swich itself (supbeam labeled)
what are that electronics for?

well centered, massive springs – good soldering work

the switch PCB is placed in that groove (threads dry as desert gobi!)

lets take a look at the other side…

yes – there is a scratch on my LEDs Lens Sad

opening the unglued! Bezel

a Oring and a little dry, good cut threads

the reflector is held in place with the AR-coated lens with a retaining ring (i didn´t open)

the centering ring is cut to fit

copper! but DTP? i do not reflow…

opening the battery tube at the drivers side shows a blank end – which makes mechanical lockout possible…

the backcovr of the driver is held in place by 3 screws – which are glued heavily

screw you screws!

but i got it out…

there it comes!

taking away the cover shows that the driver is acebeam

no place for bigger wires

TADAA

where is the magic done and what can we do to pimp the Amps?

if you need higher Res you may look into this Folder:
http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/Martin_Rathmanner/library/acebeam%20K4...

weeeeeelll…
putting the driver back in place you should be more careful than i was.
-> that tiiiny basterds are the magnetic position detectors…

here the one for mode 2 is missing

and there belongs “strobe”

I try to solder that the next days…
loosing strobe wouldn’t hurt, but level 2 does!

PLEASE NOTE
i do not work in "reviews, deals and codes" for the time being
maybe M4D M4X will return one day, but until then:

THANK YOU FOR YEARS OF YOUR SUPPORT AND FRIENDLY CONTACTS!

Edited by: M4D M4X on 09/02/2014 - 18:57
Ouchyfoot
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You seem to be having fun. Great tear down. I’m glad you know what you’re doing.

DB Custom
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like the way you tell it! Smile

Thanks for sharing, always love seeing the details and you’ve presented them well here. Wink

max
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Q: "where is the magic done and what can we do to pimp the Amps?"

A:  See those two R082 resistors in the upper right part of your photo of the driver?  Stack an R100 on top of each one and measure before and after lux.

DB Custom
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DTP can be checked with a DMM by applying one probe to the little protrusion on either side in the center, the little overflow tabs, where the thermal pad is. Use continuity to see if it grounds out, say on one of those screws, then you’ll know if there’s mask between that pad and the copper star.

MRsDNF
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Thanks for the effort. I loved the strip down.Smile

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

M4D M4X
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thanks for your answers!

DTP will be checked net time I open the light.
(that simple idea did not came into my head)

@lumen increase :
is that the way vinh does the driver?
I saw he also ads heatsink…

what could be expected from a R100?
vinh level or on the saver side?

PLEASE NOTE
i do not work in "reviews, deals and codes" for the time being
maybe M4D M4X will return one day, but until then:

THANK YOU FOR YEARS OF YOUR SUPPORT AND FRIENDLY CONTACTS!

DBSAR
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nice light Smile i wonder when the next GroupBuy for this light will begin.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

Cereal_killer
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Does anyone know if removing the pickup sensor for strobe would cause any more parasitic drain with the ring in the strobe location than it would in the standby location?

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

ImA4Wheelr
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Nice teardown info and pictures.  Thank you M4D M4X.

Overclocker
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the original K40 didn’t have this brass retaining ring

R082 resistors at the upper right. modding time Wink thanks for the pix!!!

M4D M4X
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first i managed to rescue Mode 2 Smile

not best soldering – but thea are sooo tiiny! Wink

then i opened the light again to ad a R100 to the sense Resistors:

L1 0,024 0,029 +20%
L2 0,83 0,95 +15%
L3 8,6 11,36 +32%
L4 21,8 28,1 +29%
L5 37,2 46,3 +24%
L6 60,1 73,2 +22%

kLux measured at 107 cm with HS1010A

The light gets hot very fast at L6 Shocked
Lux drop to 69 kLux @30 sec

PLEASE NOTE
i do not work in "reviews, deals and codes" for the time being
maybe M4D M4X will return one day, but until then:

THANK YOU FOR YEARS OF YOUR SUPPORT AND FRIENDLY CONTACTS!

FOSSIL
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Sir m4d m4x, how do you turn the brass retaining ring in the tail cap? Clockwise or counter clockwise… im trying to open it but no success. Its too hard to open… tia

FOSSIL
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I tried opening the tail cap again but i cannot open it at all…the retaining ring is kinda stuck.. so it means i cannot replace the tail cap… i emailed acebeam but the reply only says to have it check to whom i bought it.. i thought acebeam support international warranty

M4D M4X
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I will check for the brass ring of the Reflector tonight…

which ring in the tailcap?
why do you open that?

PLEASE NOTE
i do not work in "reviews, deals and codes" for the time being
maybe M4D M4X will return one day, but until then:

THANK YOU FOR YEARS OF YOUR SUPPORT AND FRIENDLY CONTACTS!

FOSSIL
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Yes sir… ring in the tail cap… to access sa tail cap boots…

FOSSIL
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I just trying to open it i know if the tail cap boot are replaceable… but i cannot open it….

M4D M4X
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that silver ring opens counterclockwise…

PLEASE NOTE
i do not work in "reviews, deals and codes" for the time being
maybe M4D M4X will return one day, but until then:

THANK YOU FOR YEARS OF YOUR SUPPORT AND FRIENDLY CONTACTS!

FOSSIL
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I tried your technique using a needle nose pliers but still no success…. its too hard to turn it… i thinking that it is kinda stuck…

djozz
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Nice teardown with good pictures, enjoyed that Smile

FOSSIL
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That is not a silver ring… it is a brass ring… the 4th picture you posted…

LSX
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FOSSIL wrote:
That is not a silver ring… it is a brass ring… the 4th picture you posted…

Just turn harder, often the aluminium threads when they aren’t lubricated grab onto the brass retaining rings. I had to pull a brass pill out of an aluminium host the other day and it needed two people to do it. One holding the body with a rubber gripping cloth and one with the circlip pliers with a bar going through the handle for leverage. Once it came out it was fine, but there was no lubricant, no threadlocker etc, it was just really tight and had stuck in there.

FOSSIL
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M4D M4X wrote:
that silver ring opens counterclockwise…

Are you sure sir? Because i tried it both ways but no luck of opening it….
I stopped trying to open it because im damaging the ring

FOSSIL
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LSX wrote:
FOSSIL wrote:
That is not a silver ring… it is a brass ring… the 4th picture you posted…

Just turn harder, often the aluminium threads when they aren’t lubricated grab onto the brass retaining rings. I had to pull a brass pill out of an aluminium host the other day and it needed two people to do it. One holding the body with a rubber gripping cloth and one with the circlip pliers with a bar going through the handle for leverage. Once it came out it was fine, but there was no lubricant, no threadlocker etc, it was just really tight and had stuck in there.

I dont want to try it harder cause im damaging the ring itself….

LSX
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Are you using circlip pliers?

FOSSIL
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LSX wrote:
Are you using circlip pliers?

Actually not… im using needle nose pliers that have a nice fit in the ring…

I really trying hard to open it but no success really….

FOSSIL
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Im thinking if the ring is glued?

LSX
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FOSSIL wrote:
LSX wrote:
Are you using circlip pliers?

Actually not… im using needle nose pliers that have a nice fit in the ring…

I really trying hard to open it but no success really….

hmm I’m not sure then. Try heating the whole thing up by putting it in a ziplock bag in boiling water. Aluminium expands more than brass does so it might loosen up.

Plus if it is glued it will help to soften it.

FOSSIL
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LSX wrote:

hmm I’m not sure then. Try heating the whole thing up by putting it in a ziplock bag in boiling water. Aluminium expands more than brass does so it might loosen up.

Plus if it is glued it will help to soften it.

I dont want to try it anymore…. because it my bring more damage to the tail cap.. besides i just trying to open it out of my curiousity…
But the sad part is that it is not that accessible to open it…

FOSSIL
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Funny thing i emailed acebeam asking for what way to open it, clockwise or counterclockwise? First acebeam replied turning it to clockwise to open it…. but no success…so i emailed again… acebeam replied trying to turn it counterclockwise…. showing only they are not sure which way to open it….. tsk tsk…

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M4DM4X, in post 11, first pic, the resistor next to the capacitor might need resoldering. It looked weird from the begening. (Post 1)

My gratitude to those who are willing and able to help others (in whatever way you can)! Being human is more than just existing for yourself. Smile

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