Wonder if that also mean further delays in sending out replacements for the defective parts.
This is the one I’ve used for all my builds and I notice mode change problems when hot. It’s also the part specified in the original driver build thread.
I've been using only X7R 1 uF caps for all my OTC driver build/mods and I still see the temperature related problems in most of the lights I modded using it. Now I did buy the caps off of eBay at the time, so no guarantees I got caps as labeled. I suspect though they won't make much a difference, but it would be interesting to try. In my next DigiKey or Mouser order, I'll definitely will be ordering some 0603's and 0805's - cheap enough.
The inconsistencies with the OTC's is some of the reason why I much prefer e-switch's now -- you have true control of timing under the MCU. I've also used the NOINIT (brown out) method as well, but still seems to have some timing inconsistencies.
The circuit is the cap and the resistance it bleeds down through, if the resistance goes down with heat the timing will get shorter also.
Finally got my 25R cell to work with my 3D. Turbo is impressively bright, UI is great, the light works flawlessly. Thanks to all who make this GB happen, really appreciate all your hard work.
What was not working with 25R and what did you do to fix it?
Are they checking QC? Banggood keeps moving restock date back It’s now october 2
.
I actually think that they are!
Obviously the first batch was rushed, and now we are seeing the spotty QC as a result of it.
I am down for four, but have thus far only ordered one. - Received (3D), and I am very happy with it - But some it seems are not so lucky…
I just thought that one would be enough to play with to start, and wanted to see how things would go before I order the other three. - I think that was a good decision.
Many, Many thanks to all involved for Continuously working to make this GB Right! - It can’t be all that much fun
Thank you,
-Chuck
I ordered several aditional 3d binned ones:
Well, this aint a XLP 3D but smth like 3C, kinda disappointing- the left is IOS V6 3D
1A ones were just fine though
One of them dont have a moon mode, just a blank space, i will reflash the driver but for someone it could be an issue
Many thanks to the TK for that lovely all arround firmware! And the OP ofc
Mitko - If a reflash brings back the moon...please let us know. Actually if you could directly flash TK's UI and tell us that would be a big help to all.
Will do that- its actualy a black space instead of the moon mode, only on one of 3 lights, maybe a glitch or smth- i usualy get glitches like that when i overhear the a13 while soldering
FWIW, the color temperature will change depending on what mode it’s in. This is a side effect of having two power channels at very different amps.
So, it can be tricky to compare the tint against other lights unless they run at similar power levels and have a similar type of AR coating on their lenses.
I’ve had a time to look at my 3 lights I’ve ordered. One of the lights I have to tighten as tight as I can to get it to work. If I put this tail cap on the other lights they do not work at all unless I put a shim the switch. I’m not sure if I received 2 short body tubes or 1 short tail cap. The length of my body tubes are 2.732, 2.723, and 2.730. I also measured the tail caps from the thumb indent to the end and tail cap that is giving me problems is a little shorter. The tail cap measurements are .998, 1.000, and 1.000. The tail cap that measures .998 only works when the 2.732 body tube, but i have to crank the tail cap as tight as I can to get the light to work and have it not flicker.
That really sounds like a tube issue to me - Too short.
Thanks,
-Chuck
body tubes are 2.732, 2.723, and 2.730 …
… tail cap measurements are .998, 1.000, and 1.000.
The tail cap that measures .998 only works when the 2.732 body tube, but i have to crank the tail cap as tight as I can
That’s a perfect illustration why having a production that respects and understands specified tight tolerances matters.
There you have one that is less than .01 too short on one part, and less than .01 too long on the other piece, and — put them together, and hey, this one sample works fine.
Checking one product fails to detect the problem — too much variation around the spec — because some combinations of parts will average out to working properly.
Too much on one part, too little on the other, result — it lights up if you happen to get those pieces put together.
That’s why taking a real sample of the products — not just one, not just one they know works, definitely not one prepared to show as a “sample” — is what you need to check them.
Measure, write down the result, find out how variable the work is.
Given sloppy work with overmuch variability, the workaround — assemblers fishing through the bins looking for a slightly longer tailcap to go on a slightly shorter body tube, trying to make the damn thing light up — isn’t the right fix.
Want to build a modern nation that doesn’t melt down and fall apart?
Here’s how: production tolerance variability specification interaction - Google Search
What are other people’s tubes measured at? My issue seems to be that one of my tail caps. Unless all 3 of my body tubes are too short. If someone just ordered 1 light then this issue may be missed. The only reason I noticed it was because I ordered more then 1 light. I was wondering why one of my lights I had to crank the tail cap as tight as I could to make the light work. When I put the tail cap in the other lights the only way I could get it to work was by putting in a paperclip shim in the tail cap. If people order the 18350 tube the light may not work, but it works with their 18650 tube.
What are other people’s tubes measured at? My issue seems to be that one of my tail caps. Unless all 3 of my body tubes are too short. If this is an issue with the tail cap then some of the 18350 tubes my not work even though the original 18650 light appears to work properly.
.
Re the 18350 - You have made a very good point.
Thanks!
-Chuck
What is the proper length and tolerance for body tube suppose to be?
Mitko - If a reflash brings back the moon…please let us know. Actually if you could directly flash TK’s UI and tell us that would be a big help to all.
Hi bugsy36 and Mitko.
I don’t know if Mitko has the same issue like me and some others. If so, the bike flasher for example wouldn’t work as it should (only flashing, no continiuous “background” light”), and the battcheck mode wouldn’t function, just like the moon mode. If that’s the case it’s very likely a problem with the 7135 solder joints. When I received my light and experienced that issue, my first thought was I am going to reflash it. TK asked for some macro shots of the driver and when I posted some, DEL suggested that the 7135 solder joints could be bad by the looks of it. And he was right. With that kind of issue, reflashing the driver wouldn’t do anything to get rid of that.
Has anybody measured the tail cap threads on the tube,from the end of the threads to where the tailcap seats? Seems like if the whole tube was too short it would be noticeable. The tailcap would be hard to twist on because of the springs compressing and there would be a gap between the body and tailcap.
When I put a unprotected battery in mine I can barely feel the springs compress, I tried a protected battery and I can feel the springs compressing more but the tailcap is still easy to put on.
All 4 that I got work great, but I don't have anything to measure mine to post for comparison.
I measured the tailcaps from the brass ring to the top and the I got 4.3, 4.4, and 4.6. The tailcap I’m having and issue with is the tailcap that measured 4.6.
Well, there’s a lesson here — as always!
We hear a lot of fuss about charging variations of a tenth of a volt, when the accuracy of the meters being used is likely no better than that.
Now we’re on the receiving end of a production process that — as illustrated by matching tubes to tailcaps — needs not just accuracy but also repeatability
We can hope someone on the manufacturing end knows how to do that and just didn’t get consulted, or listened to.
On the receiving end — well, what can we learn? Anyone competent in machining and QA/QC around to start a topic? I’d love to read about this.
Lots of info on the Internet of course. But that’s the Internet.
——————-quote starts here——————
http://rick.sparber.org/am.pdf
I am the proud owner of a no-name Enco micrometer.
I also have a few big-name but used micrometers. When I need to achieve the highest possible accuracy, I don’t trust any of them.The no-name is of questionable accuracy even though I am the only owner. The rest were most likely amazingly accurate before they either were dropped or worn out.
This is not to say that I don’t use my mics often.
I just have to be careful. If I need to make two parts of equal size, then repeatability is more important than accuracy.
Repeatability is as much a function of my ability to achieve a consistent “touch” as it is the mechanical integrity of the mic.
Here’s an easy test – measure the same thing 10 times and see how much the readings vary.
I routinely see variations of +/-0.0001” on a good day.
If I must get to an absolute size, I use my spacer blocks which are accurate to /-0.0001” each. In the worst case, this means that the stack of spacer blocks needed to get to a given height has an accuracy of/- (0.0001”) x N where N is the number of blocks used. It should go without saying that all surfaces must be absolutely spotless. A bit of swarf can easily be 0.001” thick and throw off any hope of accuracy.
Let’s say I want to achieve a thickness of 0.5000”. I have a single spacer block of this thickness. It is good to /-0.0001”. Assume it is a good day and my repeatability is/-0.0001”. So if my mic was perfect, I should expect it to read 0.5000” +/- 0.0002” worst case. Yet when I use my mic, I read 0.5003”. The way I handle this situation is to trust my spacer blocks and correct my mic reading….
————quote ends here — see link for more, or find something better ——————-
Dunno how they do it at Manker or wherever the pieces are coming from.
This is to try to learn something about how we should do it on our end —- because we can make some pretty wild claims here if we don’t know the limits of the tools we measure with.
Just sayin’
Sorry for drifting into Meta stuff. Figured it needs to be said somewhere. Hope someone knowledgeable can start a thread and port this stuff over.