Has anybody measured the tail cap threads on the tube,from the end of the threads to where the tailcap seats? Seems like if the whole tube was too short it would be noticeable. The tailcap would be hard to twist on because of the springs compressing and there would be a gap between the body and tailcap.
When I put a unprotected battery in mine I can barely feel the springs compress, I tried a protected battery and I can feel the springs compressing more but the tailcap is still easy to put on.
All 4 that I got work great, but I don't have anything to measure mine to post for comparison.
I measured the tailcaps from the brass ring to the top and the I got 4.3, 4.4, and 4.6. The tailcap I’m having and issue with is the tailcap that measured 4.6.
We hear a lot of fuss about charging variations of a tenth of a volt, when the accuracy of the meters being used is likely no better than that.
Now we’re on the receiving end of a production process that — as illustrated by matching tubes to tailcaps — needs not just accuracy but also repeatability
We can hope someone on the manufacturing end knows how to do that and just didn’t get consulted, or listened to.
On the receiving end — well, what can we learn? Anyone competent in machining and QA/QC around to start a topic? I’d love to read about this.
Lots of info on the Internet of course. But that’s the Internet.
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Dunno how they do it at Manker or wherever the pieces are coming from.
This is to try to learn something about how we should do it on our end —- because we can make some pretty wild claims here if we don’t know the limits of the tools we measure with.
Just sayin’
Sorry for drifting into Meta stuff. Figured it needs to be said somewhere. Hope someone knowledgeable can start a thread and port this stuff over.
Quality control over at Manker must be going to test each light now, the amount of money someone is losing with these errors is too much for Banggood to think about handling, I’m sure. I wonder if they will be mixing and matching the parts, to try to get everything to work. Or will we see shims added in the next deliveries upon resuming? :~
Got mine today, everything works and looks fine. I took it apart to bypass the springs and everything was screwed in with enough force and wasn’t too hard to unscrew. I changed the reflector to a TIR while it was apart and I’m loving the setup, however the UI does take a little bit getting used to.
I received my 2x 3D tinted lights yesterday and one of them has a horrible yellow green tint to it. I purchased 2x 5A and 2x 3D and one sticks out like a sore thumb. It is really hard to take a pucture of, but it appears that the dome on the LED is either damaged or partially dedomed. Can a bad dome affect colour this much?
The awful coloured light is visibly dimmer and a ceiling bounce test with my lux meter (phone) confirmed my suspicion.
When looking directly at the unlit LED and the reflector, it does not reflect a nice even yellow colour like the rest of my lights. I have taken some photos using my UV flashlight to reflect into lights to show the oddness I am seeing.
5A
5A
3D
“3D”
Below is a picture of all four lights; I hope it’s clear which one I’m referring to.
-> 3D - “3D” - 5A - 5A ->
And now just three
-> 3D - “3D” - 5A ->
I’ve been seeing a few other users with tints similar to this and I’m not sure if this is a completely different bin or bad dome. I would love to know what the experts thinks. I am thinking about email Neal’s assistant because it is significantly dimmer and after being so spoiled with such beautiful tints (thanks to everyone involved in the GB) I just don’t see myself using the light.
The yellow-green 3D is likely dedomed. Removing the dome tends to warm up the beam by about 1500K and makes it more green. You’ll need to get a new emitter or head or something to fix it…
Neal is working this issue with the short tubes… He is more worried about further issues than most of us. I am sure if the tolerances stack in a bad way and an 18350 tube doesn’t work for someones light, that Banggood will make it right….
Ref, Tailcap - Bodytube Problem. To Me it looks like the Tailcap Spring Coils are bottoming out before the Tube+Tailcap make contact. Cut 1 turn off the Spring to Fix.
Assumptions are just that. Be patient and let them do what they said they would do. They said they would provide better quality and QC - we just have to wait.
The 18350 tube is not out yet, so I was getting ahead of myself in that. I feel sorry for everyone that has to deal with the the poor QC that came with this light and want to thank everyone that put there time in to make this light possible.
October 2nd is a long time for restock, isn’t it? I’m sure glad at least one of mine works, or I’d be getting antsy. Here is hoping though, as mentioned above, the wait time will include some QC improvements, and the new batch will work well. I definitely want one or two more, but hope not to have problems with them, obviously.
Thanks, will check into those next time I order from Fasttech! The UI will have you trying to “Reverse” your other lights in a day or two…. LOL, I was…
