Looking for a smallish T6 1x18650. These are sometimes called a “mini” t6 by some vendors. I’ll seriously consider non-zooms, but I really want a zoomer with NO flicker; best brightness possible; not prone to overheating and at a budget price, $30 or less. Not interested in $100 lights for this go-around. And tailstanding is almost a requirement
I am asking BLF members because I had not-so-good luck on my own. Anyone find anything that matches these criteria?
Here are my semi-failures so far and my one keeper. Hopefully you have better suggestions than these!
I like the host and color, but this one has a nasty flicker in the two low modes:
This one is what the doctor ordered! Everything I’m looking for —- except I think there are brighter ones out there, and this one has no memory. The sipik version overheats.
I think the Sipik is the best one going at the moment. It overheats but consider why that is. That means that the heat sink is actually working and that the LED is driven decently.
You arent gonna find one that is ‘better’ from that point of view.
I have the same issue. No good vendors make flood to throws, due to limited market and patent issues. So we are stuck with cheapo lights that are poorly designed, underdriven junk for the most part.
Well, it is handy for midnight winter walks in Alaska to keep you hands warm, but the overheating limits its usefulness for me anyway, especially since I’m in the desert to begin with.
I use the Ultrafire version of the s98 which is maybe 10% less brighter but has much less heat issues, but you can control the sipik’s tendency to act as a fry pan by switching to medium every once in a while.
>>>>>So we are stuck with cheapo lights that are poorly designed, underdriven junk for the most part.
Bummer!!! So maybe it isn’t just me.
Well, if anyone has any mini lights that they like, please list em. They don’t have to be perfect …. Man I wish that first Ultrafire bronze mini didn’t have PWM flicker. It would fit the bill.
None of my Sipik SK98s did have any sensible heatsinking at all.
Disassembly of the pill and press-fitting in a solid slug of copper or brass is mandatory, IMHO. Don’t forget to hand-lap the emitter star to the modified pill, then glue it in place with a tiny dab of arctic silver - after that, the SK98 is one of the finest lights I know.
So, very little effort is needed to make this torch usable; and after that, it is one of the cheapest and most versatile 18650/18700 lights around. Also, replacing the driver with a NANJG105C might prove to be an easy and worthwhile modification, although I actually do like the driver they came with from the factory.
>>>>>Disassembly of the pill and press-fitting in a solid slug of copper or brass is mandatory
Do you have a how-to somewhere on BLF? I’d give it a try if I had a step-by-step, but I’m not a big one for embarking on these mods without specific directions at least the first time.
What do you use for the slug? Grounding rod slices? I thought ground rods only came in a few diameters?
Oakey doakey …… I’ll get out my calipers and measure the original pill …. OOops orig. pill has no slots on face to use needle nose to unscrew. Can’t get at it from the back either. There is what appears to be a thin layer of plastic with a hole cut for the emitter. Are there slots under that to turn the pill for removal? If so, how do I get that thin delicate piece of plastic off without bulloxing it. Thanks for your help BTW. Mucho gracias. Or is there some other way to get the pill out? Do I need to blast? I like to blast.
Kinda …. It looks like this, because this is it as of a few minutes ago. But the zoom “hood” covers the edges of the pill, unlike yours where you can see the threaded edge, wor what looks like a threaded edge.
Hmmm is my thought exactly. By head, do you mean the zoom lense holder? It will not come off without getting the pill out, like most zoomers, or the ones I have seen. Thanks again for all the help, BTW.
I’ve tried pushing from the back. Nothing except a red face.
>>>>you need to take off the white spacer and under that there will probably be some holes for tweezers/pliers
Yup, I may have to blast.
The white plastic spacer — or whatever it is — is not as flimsy as first thought. It is about 1/32nd of inch thick and seemingly made from the stongest plastic ever developed. It ain’t moving.
There’s not a lot of room in there without risking the emitter, but i can get an exacto tip under there and pried like the dickens (no offense to Charles) and VOILA!
Nothing.
I will keep working on it but it almost feels like it is glued to the emitter base.
There has to be some way to unscrew it right? This wouldn’t be press fit if I REALLY REALLY press from the back?
the bore of the pill is not tapered on mine. Round copper bar stock, turned +.001” OD, heated the aluminium pill (sans emitter and driver board), then pressed in the copper slug on my bench vice. Turned some iron bar stock for a completely square surface, then used that to sand the pill. Sand the back side of the emitter star, as well (800 - 1000 grit). Then, use lapping compound on both.
When you have finished that (to the extent of your liking), mix up a drop of 2-part thermal epoxy (I prefer “silver arctic”), and squeeze the emitter on, tightly. Drill new holes for the wires, put in the 17mm driver of your choice, solder the leads, and reassemble.
I’ll provide pictures as soon as I get around buying a new camera.
s.:
the first run of Sipik SK98 weren’t press-in pills. They were screwed in, with proper threads.
Should they really have changed the design?
I need to order a couple more to make sure. After all, I know enough people who’d want and need a decent torch (although I would not trust them with rechargeable Li-Ions - rather take the risk of 2xCR123A with a corresponding driver)
