Shadow JM26 Driver (Place for more AMC7135)

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MattSPL
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dthrckt wrote:
it might. but a proper iron is more important, and solder core flux, or the tiniest amount of flux that you can to the leg, is sufficient, imho

oh, and a magnifying glass can help.

I also find it helpful to have it set up so that my hand has something steady to rest on or push against – ie no shaking…

Ok thanks.
I have one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T1-Bulk-Portasol-Technic-Gas-Soldering-Iron-fi...
My electric soldering iron broke and went in the bin.

gords1001
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dthrckt wrote:
it might. but a proper iron is more important, and solder core flux, or the tiniest amount of flux that you can to the leg, is sufficient, imho

oh, and a magnifying glass can help.

I also find it helpful to have it set up so that my hand has something steady to rest on or push against – ie no shaking…

All good advice, its one of them, get the bits to make the job easy and you’ll be successful, try to hodge, you’ll struggle and maybe not be successful. Those helping hands are good, let me find a link to show you what I mean……

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=350684147438&index=0&nav=...

This kind of thing, I also have a little clamp on vise that I fasten to the dining table.

MattSPL
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gords1001 wrote:
dthrckt wrote:
it might. but a proper iron is more important, and solder core flux, or the tiniest amount of flux that you can to the leg, is sufficient, imho

oh, and a magnifying glass can help.

I also find it helpful to have it set up so that my hand has something steady to rest on or push against – ie no shaking…

All good advice, its one of them, get the bits to make the job easy and you’ll be successful, try to hodge, you’ll struggle and maybe not be successful. Those helping hands are good, let me find a link to show you what I mean……

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=350684147438&index=0&nav=...

This kind of thing, I also have a little clamp on vise that I fasten to the dining table.

That looks like Edward scissor hands Smile

dthrckt
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here’s a shot of my ghetto rigged helping hands, along with a driver w/ a some chips added

The helping hands thing is from harborfreight (~$3?) and it moved to easily when using it, so I cut the end off an empty propane bottle, hot glued that to a 5lb weight, then hot glued the helping hands to the bottle S) I also used heavy copper wire to add length to the arms.

MattSPL
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That’s a nice setup.

dthrckt
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thanks. it saves a lot of aggravation!

I expect you can find something similar locally for less than shipping, but for reference (and of course, you can spend a lot more, and get a lot more)

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=helping+hands

MattSPL
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dthrckt wrote:
thanks. it saves a lot of aggravation!

I expect you can find something similar locally for less than shipping, but for reference (and of course, you can spend a lot more, and get a lot more)

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=helping+hands

Thanks for the link. I’ll have a look locally and see if i can find anything. I should have a few weeks before the chips arrive.

Cheers
Matt

MattSPL
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My AMC 7135 chips arrived today, so i got to work on my Shadow SL3. I soldered 11 chips in. I left the 12th one for now as i’d had enough for one night, and the last one has the negative cable attached, so might have been too fiddly for this time of night.

The result :bigsmile: 9 Amp SL3

gords1001
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J) I need to get me one of these….
MattSPL
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gords1001 wrote:
J) I need to get me one of these….

Yeah, it’s a beast. It should just about hit 10Amps with the 12th chip installed. So fiddly though soldering them. Took me hours.

C-channel
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Wow

How bright is bright enough...

Runtime VS Lumens...

dthrckt
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that’s awesome!

i’m interested in hearing about how long you can run it before it is to hot to handle

MattSPL
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dthrckt wrote:
that’s awesome!

i’m interested in hearing about how long you can run it before it is to hot to handle

I’ll do some testing tomorrow and let you know

MattSPL
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Just an update.

I picked up the SL3 this morning, and it was on very dim like moonlight mode or something. Then it would intermittently turn on and off.
Un-screwing the head slightly stopped this for when the light isn’t in use.

Anybody any ideas why this might happen?

EDIT:
My SL3 is working perfectly on high mode, and is Really bright, but flickers on medium and low, and also flickers very dimly when turned off.
Not sure why this might happen?

dthrckt
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is this the first time you took the driver out?

I’ve had that happen w/ a bad driver ground – the outer ring of the driver wasn’t digging into the aluminum of the light enough for good contact. maybe on high it is enough current and voltage (plus no pwm) to work.

I’ve also had that happen one other time w/ a driver that was direct drive on high and pwm for modes – it turned out to be a poor solder joint at the emitter itself (no pcb, emitter soldered to copper heatsink with leads on top solder pads).

MattSPL
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dthrckt wrote:
is this the first time you took the driver out?

I’ve had that happen w/ a bad driver ground – the outer ring of the driver wasn’t digging into the aluminum of the light enough for good contact. maybe on high it is enough current and voltage (plus no pwm) to work.

I’ve also had that happen one other time w/ a driver that was direct drive on high and pwm for modes – it turned out to be a poor solder joint at the emitter itself (no pcb, emitter soldered to copper heatsink with leads on top solder pads).

I had the driver out a couple of times before to look at it.

It’s strange that its flickering even when switched off. The brightness varies slightly as it flickers. When its off, it flickers from about 1 lumen upto maybe 20 lumens intermittantly.
Then when it’s in low or medium, it’s has the same intermittant flickering, just brighter.
High is perfect though.

Cheers
Matt

dthrckt
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geez, that’s weird. sounds like that rules out the things I mentioned.

There must be a short somewhere. I always start by checking the work I did last Smile Though, maybe the switch is the culprit – it could certainly be the weak link w/ 9 amps pumpin through it!

MattSPL
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Yeah it’s strange.

My soldering job is far from neat in parts, but it all looks ok without any solder where it shouldn’t be.
I’ve a feeling it might be the switch too, because its as if the switch is letting power through even when it should be off.

gords1001
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I thought the sl3 was an electronic switch? If so, does it even see 9a?

dthrckt
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btw, i’m so glad you’re testing the water BEFORE i throw a hundred bucks at this, thanks!

MattSPL
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gords1001 wrote:
I thought the sl3 was an electronic switch? If so, does it even see 9a?

It is an electronic switch mounted on the driver board, but I’ve no idea how it works or if it sees much current or not.

Cheers
Matt

MattSPL
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dthrckt wrote:
btw, i’m so glad you’re testing the water BEFORE i throw a hundred bucks at this, thanks!

Yeah, I couldn’t resist trying to make it brighter.
If your happy with unscrewing the head a quarter turn, and only using high, it seems worthwhile Smile

It still steps down after a certain amount of time to a lower high.

dthrckt
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I bet you can get it sorted out.

One (slow and laborious) option would be to pull 1 chip at a time and re-test

MattSPL
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dthrckt wrote:
I bet you can get it sorted out.

One (slow and laborious) option would be to pull 1 chip at a time and re-test

The thought of taking chips off would make me cry Big Smile

I need to get some tips on soldering these chips. Getting the solder to stick and spread where i wanted it was hit and miss.

dthrckt
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did you use flux? it is essential for how I do it (the tiniest amount I can apply), but others say they don’t use it.

next time I do some I’ll do a video, but it might be awhile

MattSPL
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Yeah, I tried with and without flux, and also tried solder paste.
I have a gas soldering iron, and the tips only last a few hours, so that might not have helped. I think I need sn electric iron as the temp on a gas one is hard to control.

NightCrawl
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Soldering is really easy with a soldering station.. so I suggest you get yourself one. I dont use flux, but I use solder with some flux in it. Thats usually enough.

MattSPL
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NightCrawl wrote:

Soldering is really easy with a soldering station.. so I suggest you get yourself one. I dont use flux, but I use solder with some flux in it. Thats usually enough.

Ok thanks, ill look into getting one.

Sirius9
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I noticed that they (whoever produced that driver for Shadow) used Microchip PIC MCU,
did someone tried to probe that mcu and see if it can be replaced with attiny13a?

 

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I still have the JM26 and I have a question, is the number of AMC’s the only thing that differs the SL3 and JM26? I’m asking because I’ve bought the reflector and MCPCB from the SL3 to transform the JM26 into SL3. Possible?

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