BTU Shocker Mod - XM-L2 U2's/SinkPAD's

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Tom E
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Before:

After:

All polished up:

Clear view of the rings:

relic38
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I smoothed the pill area as well. Once you get to 2000 grit paper, things take on a mirror-like finish. Very nice.

Welcome the night.

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FlashPilot
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DayLighter wrote:
blueb8llz wrote:

i know right! this btu might be on my wish list now….unless, hay tom E, can this same mod be done to a fenix tk75?


yeah… that will be very interesting.too bad Fenix glued everything :Sp

There are so many lights that I would have bought if they werent glued… including the TK70.

Just say no to glued flashlights! |(

FlashPilot
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Tom E wrote:

Before:

 

After:

 

That looks great Tom E. Did you buy those thin insulation disks or make them? Got a link or can you tell us what material you used? It sure looks a lot better than kapton tape.

Tom E
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FlashPilot wrote:
That looks great Tom E. Did you buy those thin insulation disks or make them? Got a link or can you tell us what material you used? It sure looks a lot better than kapton tape.

I'm like 98% sure it's these in a translucent style: http://intl-outdoor.com/cree-xml-insulation-gaskets-10-pcs-p-463.html. They got the 3M trademark on the back. I cut out the center square hole to make it bigger, using a small cutting pliers. They came out in the pic looking like they were made to fit, but if you look closely, the cut out is more octagonal shape from a series of straight cuts from the cutters. I've used these before, come in real handy because of the 19mm diameter. Think I'll be ordering more along with some of those noctigon copper MCPCB's reviewed by PPtk.

Update: ordered more, ordered some of the noctigons at each size/type. Their springs look excellent quality - got a bunch of sizes, ordered more...

Tom E
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Anyone else do a tailcap reading across the switch?

 I'm curious what others are seeing measuring amps this way, if you get in the neighborhood of 3.85A or not. I think one of the reviewers noted 3.6A on turbo.

MRsDNF
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I’m not sure if these springs would fit or not but I have used the ‘‘A” ones and they are very stiff. On a 5 amp driver it makes no difference to the current if the battery is resting on it or being pushed hard with the spring on the driver and tailcap measurements being taken.

 

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Tom E
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MRsDNF wrote:
I'm not sure if "these":http://intl-outdoor.com/goldsilver-plated-springs-for-drivers-and-switch... springs would fit or not but I have used the ''A" ones and they are very stiff. On a 5 amp driver it makes no difference to the current if the battery is resting on it or being pushed hard with the spring on the driver and tailcap measurements being taken.

Yes - I used these on one Shocker - makes a very tight fit for KP 3400's. 5 amp driver? Stock Shocker driver is supposedly 3.8A and the DRY driver is direct drive, so it's higher based on lumens/throw I got but didn't do a tailcap reading...

dazed1
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Ok guys you made me confused, so please help with few questions!

1. Doesent all BT shocker already come with U2 lens as stated on CNQG site?

2. Doesent all BTU Shocker already come with better lens as of lately then the old revisions? what lens are you guys using to mod?

3. What driver should i pick during my order, DRY vs BTU what are the pros and cons, does it really worth it to go for DRY?

4. I got some high end thermal paste, Artic Cooling MX-4, it beats Artic Silver for whole 2c, should i use this, instead of the stock – to mod the cooling, is it easy to replace the paste?

Thanks guys!

Fenix TK61 MOD> resistor, transistors, copper heatsink, Artic Cooling MX4, dedome, 3A > 5.7A ~ 1700 lumens > (600.000cd)

Tom E
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1 - XML U2, not XM-L2 U2 -- new generation of CREE emitter

2 - they always said AR lens but it wasn't an AR -- now it actually is what they say it is

3 - DRY has poor/low PWM's and cuts out of turbo after 2 mins, while the BTU driver has no PWM's (I think?), 3 mins cutoff from turbo. I believe the BTU will keep output more consistently as the battery drains as well

4 - Well, depends on your definition of easy, and if that's the only mod you do, probably not worth it -- much better to get those LED's on copper stars, SinkPAD or Noctigon

dazed1
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Thanks dude, can you provide me links where can i get the Leds (reliable site/seller i guess) as well as those Sinkpads? sorry i’m not moder my friend is, so this is all totally new to me, keep that in mind Smile

So what i need is,

Leds, and sinkpads only to make this light noticeably better, also replace the wires in the flashlight with ticker ones? thanks!

Fenix TK61 MOD> resistor, transistors, copper heatsink, Artic Cooling MX4, dedome, 3A > 5.7A ~ 1700 lumens > (600.000cd)

Tom E
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best source for LED's for this mod: https://illuminationsupply.com/cree-leds-c-52_36/cree-xml2-bare-u2-1c-tint-6500k-p-279.html

Cheapest copper boards and best price: http://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-xm20-copper-mcpcb-2pcs-p-713.html, or get 20mm SinkPAD's from VestureofBlood (BLF'er).

I use 20 gauge silicone, gotten off of eBay, but it's pricey - can't find a better/cheaper source though. You get like 30" of red, 30" of black for like $10 with shipping - way too much...

 

dazed1
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Thanks alot, are the LEDS cw? sorry im new to this stuff as i said, thanks one more time Smile

Fenix TK61 MOD> resistor, transistors, copper heatsink, Artic Cooling MX4, dedome, 3A > 5.7A ~ 1700 lumens > (600.000cd)

FMcamaroZ28
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Tom do you offer your modding services on the BTU?

Tom E
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FMcamaroZ28 wrote:
Tom do you offer your modding services on the BTU?

Well, I have done a few for fellow BLF'ers, but really need a break - been buried in mod'ing every evening and all weekend, still need to work, and got other things going on, so afraid I need to turn new mod'ing work down for now. There's always the risk luming over my head and I've had some close calls recently, and diffculty keeping track of all on-going communication -- just a lot of time & effort, and it's been getting crazier and crazier...

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hey completely understandable – just figured i’d ask

good luck with everything!

jmpaul320
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Tom E wrote:

FMcamaroZ28 wrote:
Tom do you offer your modding services on the BTU?

Well, I have done a few for fellow BLF’ers, but really need a break – been buried in mod’ing every evening and all weekend, still need to work, and got other things going on, so afraid I need to turn new mod’ing work down for now. There’s always the risk luming over my head and I’ve had some close calls recently, and diffculty keeping track of all on-going communication — just a lot of time & effort, and it’s been getting crazier and crazier…

thats what happens when you do good work lol

Would you mind keeping the wrong flashlight?
Best wish, May
Tmart service team

 

Soumil wrote:

PLEASE HELP ME GEARBEsT! IM LITERALLY CRYING!

 

Tom E
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Thanks!! I got a pile of my own stuff-to-be-mod'ed as well, need to catch up, a little anyway...

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Is it advisable to dedome the emitters of the BTU Shocker? Has anyone tried it already?

jmpaul320
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Nightbird95 wrote:
Is it advisable to dedome the emitters of the BTU Shocker? Has anyone tried it already?

vinz did a mod on the shocker with dedomed xml2s.. it was around 380-400kcd i believe… it required shims and focal point adjustment to get the emitters to focus correctly

Would you mind keeping the wrong flashlight?
Best wish, May
Tmart service team

 

Soumil wrote:

PLEASE HELP ME GEARBEsT! IM LITERALLY CRYING!

 

relic38
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I have not seen it done yet.
The reflector design does not allow deep focus adjustments that are usually needed for dedomed emitters. The wires will probably short out on the reflector. With some serious reflector mods, you might get this to work.
Edit: OK, I stand corrected Big Smile

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Omega_17
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Now the BTU shocker can come stock with XML2, just when I bought one and being told by Ric it will not be available for a long time…
I hope I can replace the LEDs easily.

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jmpaul320 wrote:
Nightbird95 wrote:
Is it advisable to dedome the emitters of the BTU Shocker? Has anyone tried it already?

vinz did a mod on the shocker with dedomed xml2s.. it was around 380-400kcd i believe… it required shims and focal point adjustment to get the emitters to focus correctly

Thanx jmpaul320. I guess I’ll stay away from dedoming the Shocker – for now. Smile

tkmckay
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Omega_17 wrote:
Now the BTU shocker can come stock with XML2, just when I bought one and being told by Ric it will not be available for a long time… I hope I can replace the LEDs easily.

I have the original BTU (dry/cool white) but also have another on build order from one of the wonderful people if this forum. I think down the road I will mod my original BTU but I really need to learn a lot more on some cheaper torches first before attempting a mod on a pricey one, just to be safe. Silly Its nice to see the option for XML2’s, although Ric doesn’t list outputs for these models. I would also be interested in knowing what sort of mounting they are using (sinkpads/copper star/alum star etc).

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I have been trying to figure out how to make Rics volume price points work…BLF group buy instead???

Buy 5 @ $95 each.

Buy 10 @ $85 each.

I am all over the qty 5 price to one BLF member but by the time you reship USPS or UPS, you’ve probably blown through $20.

Maybe Tom E would change his mind, do the emitter, driver, sinkpad etc mods and do an I-95 run one day…great time to leave L.I. and see the rest of the Sound area.

Can’t wait to see what the feedback is on the new XML2 option is…

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Tom E, my eyes seem to be playing tricks on me. Are those depressions underneath the sinkpad stars?

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Tom E
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Ohh, I'm totally swamped!! Little time for modding in the summer and over-committed myself.

 

depressions under the SinkPAD's? That's from the manufacturing process, stamped to elevate the surface and keep the direct copper path in tact. Some guys think it's really bad -- I personnally think it's not that bad and doesn't seem to have any noticeable effect - basically I'm filling it with AS5 but the surrounding surface contact area probably makes up for it pretty well. Noctigons don't have that issue, but they might have a slight depression on the top emitter side that has to be filled in with solder from re-flowing. Not sure, my preference right now is the Noctigon, but again, no known proof I know of says one is better than the other - relic and CPF has some pretty good charts on this - think it shows SinkPAD's slightly better, but only one sample test piece/emitter were used, so who really knows.

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Tom E wrote:

Ohh, I'm totally swamped!! Little time for modding in the summer and over-committed myself.

 

depressions under the SinkPAD's? That's from the manufacturing process, stamped to elevate the surface and keep the direct copper path in tact. Some guys think it's really bad -- I personnally think it's not that bad and doesn't seem to have any noticeable effect - basically I'm filling it with AS5 but the surrounding surface contact area probably makes up for it pretty well. Noctigons don't have that issue, but they might have a slight depression on the top emitter side that has to be filled in with solder from re-flowing. Not sure, my preference right now is the Noctigon, but again, no known proof I know of says one is better than the other - relic and CPF has some pretty good charts on this - think it shows SinkPAD's slightly better, but only one sample test piece/emitter were used, so who really knows.

The same graphs also show how lapping the IS copper pcb decreases lumen ouput, so I doubt the Sinkpad is better, it all comes to the tolerance of the testing equipment.

Tom E
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Yes, that blew me away - hard to make sense of that. Lots of potential issues - none of our testing methods are perfect for sure... I know for me lapping is very time consuming, but again, don't think there is any definitive proof it helps, then again on some pill surfaces, they are so uneven it makes it impossible for me to level out. Some guys have a better setup and/or equipment for sanding, so could be possible or at least easier for others.

eebowler
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I’m one of those who thinks the depresson is a bad idea. (but of course, I have no evidence of this.) If I were to design a star, I’d put the depressions on the other side of the board where the +ve and -ve contacts are. I’ll try to find those graphs over at the evil forum.

My gratitude to those who are willing and able to help others (in whatever way you can)! Being human is more than just existing for yourself. Smile

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